Alena Akhmadullina (Q2580)
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Alena Akhmadullina is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Alena Akhmadullina |
Alena Akhmadullina is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Alena Akhmadullina loves fur. She loves embroidery. And she adores a print. These themes, often over-the-top, appeal to her Moscow-centered customer base, but they can seem too much for the U.S. market, especially at a time when designers are opting to go fur- and reptile-skin-free. Coming off of the Fall 2019 season in which she created a whole ball gown out of python, Akhmadullina seems to have cooled it on her signatures. Fur was used minimally and smartly on a boyish-cut jacket—on the collar, peeking out of the placket, and on the sleeves. It was far less overwhelming than in previous outings.On a lighter note Akhmadullina is translating Western trends in her own way. There was a royal blue camp-type shirt printed with florals and a bedazzled cowboy fringe across a cashmere sweatshirt for an elevated yeehaw moment. While Akhmadullina did pare things down somewhat, one dress was fully embroidered with swans, a look that was based on an Alexander Pushkin poem. But not every reference to Akhmadullina’s homeland was serious: Her take on Russo-athleisure, a soft blue hoodie had an embedded babushka scarf in the hood, was a hit.
7 June 2019
Alena Akhmadullina is flying from a two-day business trip in New York back to Moscow today to take meetings with her private clients. Her atelier provides up to 20 dresses per client a season, and each is heavily decorated. Embellishments play just as essential a role in her main line. They’re often charming, like the tiny ceramic buttons in the shape of fox heads that decorate the artfully nipped waist of a white shirt. Even the most casual of pieces tend to have an ornate touch, like a denim jumpsuit with its chest embroidered with beaded cats. Sometimes this works, the jumpsuit did. But other times, as in the case of a dress that combined two hefty fabrics—delicate lace and checked wool, it feels a bit over the top.Per usual, there was plenty of animal fur, and this time reptile skins as well. While her main territory is Russia, this focus doesn’t necessarily win her points in the U.S. market, where there has been an emphasis on fur and exotic skin alternatives. Still, there is no denying that some of these pieces were chic, like the retro python jumpsuit. (Not present at the appointment, probably due to customs, but visible in the lookbook was a strapless ball gown made fully out of python that felt excessive.) A good idea for Akhmadullina would be to think about producing pieces, such as that red-hot jumpsuit, in other materials for those not comfortable wearing animal products.
5 February 2019
As usual this season Alena Akhmadullina found inspiration in Russian fairy tales, specifically the story “Fox and Cat.” This resulted in plenty of literal fox and cat embroidery, which often felt too busy and even childish, like the image of a fox wearing a dress stamped on a sweatshirt, or the fox face complete with a 3-D bow emblazoned in the center of a dress. The better animal-themed pieces were more pared back, such as a slouchy pale olive cat-print pajama set that could be worn as separates.Akhmadullina’s tailoring looked strong, especially a super-soft chocolate belted leather coat with an exaggerated pointed collar and a sleek paperbag waist leather skirt in the same hue. Neither of those pieces required anything extra to make a statement, and they certainly had the most staying power of any pieces in the collection.
11 December 2018
Alena Akhmadullina takes a more-is-more approach to her designs. She is from Russia, where maximalist pieces and a vast variety of choice are favored. (There was plenty of choice here, too: The collection consisted of over 50 looks.) This approach can be overwhelming, especially for those in the United States or Western Europe where personal style is often more reserved. Nonetheless, Akhmadullina’s craft, which is often executed by hand, should be appreciated.This season she continued the theme from her Resort collection, the fairy tale of Lady Godiva, a story about a woman who rode naked on horseback, covered only by her hair, to protest her husband’s taxation. Fantastical images were hand-embroidered onto the dresses: It was a lot to take in, and striking. An off-the-shoulder sequin dress boasted the full-body hand-sewn image of a woman, presumably Lady Godiva, who wore her very own sequin dress of several different colors. Still, Akhmadullina doesn’t always need to go big or go home to make an impact: A slinky blue paillette-covered dress with shoulder cut-outs also showed her skill.While much of the collection was certainly beautiful, it would help if Akhmadullina edited down her selection and focused on key pieces. Too much of a good thing is never the best thing.
7 September 2018
Always one to take inspiration from a fairy tale, Alena Akhmadullina based her Resort 2019 collection on the story of Lady Godiva, an Englishwoman who rode naked on a horse, covered only by her long hair, to stop her husband from imposing hefty taxes. As with her former collections, Akhmadullina infused the story into the clothes themselves in the form of embroidery and print. The Russia-based designer included not a horse but a unicorn to preserve the fantasy feel, stitching it onto a pretty sequined dress in silver and blue.There was a nice casual-luxe tinge to certain pieces, like a red cashmere sweater that boasted an embroidered unicorn. In general, the collection was considerably pared back this season, and the less-is-more approach worked for Akhmadullina. A butter-soft suede gray coat with a few Old English–style illustrations of acorns and leaves doesn’t necessarily sound low-key, but it was this label’s standards and it was a highlight.While Akhmadullina has long focused on producing fur—her well-heeled Russian clients love the material—she lessened the emphasis on it this season. (With a growing list of designersopting to go fur-free, that is not such a bad idea.) The move allowed for other materials, like denim, to move to center stage, including a dark-wash denim pants-and-shirt set outlined with pearls that very well could become a celebrity street style go-to. Another wild-card addition was a wooden handbag featuring a luxurious lion design.
7 June 2018
Alena Akhmadullina is known for her extravagance. Her intricate embroideries and rich furs are well suited to her deep-pocketed Moscow audience. While the over-the-top look is often heavy for even the most extreme luxury lovers of the West, Akhmadullina is paring back on the more-is-more theme. For instance, her signature fur coats were there but far less serious. One bubblegum pink number had the Russian wordСнежностьin Cyrillic script (which translates to “snowiness” in English) emblazoned on the back. A gray coat was rather natty, complete with an embroidered illustration of the Snow Queen on the front, a nod to Akhamdullina’s love of fairy tales and a good example of how the designer can use her favorite techniques in a far less overpowering manner.Still, some looks were a bit much, like a dress that boasted a triple whammy of embroidery, bishop sleeves, and a fur hem. A great palate cleanser was the velvet mahogany robe suit. The move toward simpler styles shows that Akhmadullina is getting the hang of how to captivate a less fussy audience. Take the sequined denim cardigan lined with a silk print, a piece that a street style–minded It girl would wear. (Bella Hadid, we’re looking at you.) A standout was the dark-wash denim trenchcoat. The ’80s-style piece was lined with lush fox fur—a perfect illustration of understated elevation.
8 February 2018
For the first time ever, Alena Akhmadullina did not include fur in her collection. The Moscow-based designer has slowly been learning the U.S. market and the absence of even a slight fur detail was refreshing. (After all, it seems a bit impractical to wear the hefty material in the spring.) Still, Akhmadullina’s ornate embellishments and prints—which are based on fairy tales—were present. This time, though, they appeared in a more pared-back manner. A green shirtdress with rich embroidered patches on the chest and a black suit coated in a constellation of gems were two standout examples. Also, a new introduction to note: Akhmadullina typically focuses on Central Asia in her collections, but she’s gone further East this season and included several cheongsam-style pieces. There was a white cropped jacket that used the traditional piece’s knot buttons to line the arms, creating an adjustable bell sleeve. The knotted buttons were also used as a clever way to detach and reattach sections of some dresses. Take the gown in Look 59: A glitzed-up woman in Moscow might want to sport the full-length version of the patchwork-type dress; in the States, the wearer might want to opt for a more casual, shortened style. Some pieces were a bit too busy, such as a loose dress that had threaded webbing down the décolletage. Simpler silhouettes cut closer to the body worked better here and allowed Akhmadullina’s couture-like touches to be the focus. A stunning silk simple wrap dress had a panne technique that made its floral designs appear as if they were lifted velvet. Akhmadullina’s decision to go the less-is-more route is working well for her and is a path she should continue to explore.
6 September 2017
During runway seasons,Alena Akhmadullinashows similar but separate collections both in New York and in her homeland of Russia. And for good reason: Since founding her line more than 15 years ago, Akhmadullina has solidified herself as a well-known label in Russia by building a brand on exquisite fur jackets and intricate eveningwear. More recently over the past few seasons, she has been breaking into the Western market and has been quite successful, selling on Moda Operandi and in Curve boutiques. Though, the bulk of her business remains in Russia and what may sell on the runway in Moscow—say, more fur, more gowns—won’t necessarily fly off the racks in New York or Los Angeles.The Fall 2017 collection, on display in a Soho showroom, was a good example of how Akhmadullina is tweaking her New York–bound designs to be less extravagant, tailored to the stateside customer, but without sacrificing her luxury signatures of fur, Central Asian–inspired embroidery, and uses of Russian folklore. (This time, the theme of the collection was based on a motherland fairy tale about a firebird.) Even simple pieces received a dose of elevation: A casual red tunic boasted a swathe of burgundy fur across the chest and a blue wool coat was lined with brown mink. A red velvet pajama set with embroidery on the pockets was lavish but pared-back. Sure, a few looks were a bit excessive when it came to adornments, like the cashmere sweater that was illustrated with two minks made out of, well, mink fur. (Talk about meta gone regal!) But that same couture-style craftsmanship worked exquisitely well in her gowns and dresses: A moss green dress covered in traditional Russian crochet was elegant.A standout was the puffer coat. The stereotypically sporty piece received Akhmadullina’s couture-like treatment and was a head-turner: It appeared as if it was hand-painted with floral designs, and of course, there was fur, which came in seafoam green and trimmed the hood. Rather cool, it was the perfect piece to attract some new customers in the United States.
18 February 2017
Alena Akhmadullina has rethought her over-the-top aesthetic for Pre-Fall, all the way down to her inspirations. Traditionally, the designer looks to a Russian fairy tale for ideas, but here she opted for a more Western story:The Snow Queenby Hans Christian Andersen. Despite the starting point, there was considerably less fur than usual from Akhmadullina—just three lone minks.The relative lack of fur was refreshing, especially as she’s attempting to further solidify herself in a Western market. In addition, Akhmadullina seems to be applying a more precise focus on her silhouettes. Many pieces took on a sharp ’80s form, complete with shoulder pads to emphasize an hourglass figure. A red blazer with a nicely whittled midsection was a standout. The retro motif was a bit too literal with a rhinestone-dotted denim dress featuring costume-y prom sleeves, but elsewhere, Akhmadullina worked her fairy-tale angle in simple, unexpected ways, such as by transforming a could-be geeky knit sweater with a loud snowflake print via Lurex and a pale, icy palette.One thing to watch from Akhmadullina are her ladylike bags. They came in red leather and gray velvet, along with a catchy enamel bird emblem on the flap. Germophobes take note: Metal claws prop up the bag so the bottom won’t touch any surface.
13 December 2017
Alena Akhmadullina has been a driving force in the Russian market for some time now, with designs that appeal to a high-flying crowd of women. (Think: plenty of fur, intricate embroidery, and very specific themes of Russian folklore.) It’s pretty, sure, but the rich-on-rich style is not for everyone. With that in mind, Akhmadullina lightened the luxe load this season, scaling back the use of embroidery and fur. She also changed up the palette, which wasn’t as dark, mystical, or moody as it has been in past collections. A standout included a cheerful seafoam green robe coat that had dollops of red and pink florals, some of them in puffed 3-D form, a new technique for Akhmadullina. The decadent Swakara fur was still present with the designer’s signature intarsia embroidery, but this time the coat was cropped at the upper thigh and came in a soft hue of baby pink.Though Akhmadullina has been simplifying her tastes, some pieces, like the royal blue bird-print blouse and bamboo-print striped trousers, were a bit visually hefty. But these are separates, something she has started to produce more of, which means someone without such a bold personal style could easily pair them with something else more casual.Akhmadullina typically has stellar accessories. For Resort, there were rectangular box bags with little metal chicken feet, based off of Baba Yaga, a frightening, freakish witch from Russian fairy tales. The less than heartwarming inspiration aside, these carryalls have the potential to become a hit on multiple continents.
8 June 2017
One might think that Russian designerAlena Akhmadullinamay be running out of stories to tell after more than 10 years in the fashion business. Especially since her collections are inspired by many different folkloric tales—could there really be that many? But like magic, she’s respun another fantastical narrative into a Pre-Fall lineup full of rich colors, fabrics, and furs, all of which, by the way, would look marvelous on any of her famous fans, from Amal Clooney to Georgia May Jagger. This season’s flora and fauna motifs were borrowed from the fable of the glowing firebird, a story that also involves imagery such as a tsar’s grand palace and an orchard filled with golden apples.Appropriately, Akhmadullina’s silhouettes hark back to a regal age, with mink-lined robes printed with vibrant tangerines, hunter green silk pajama suits adorned with red apples, and a quilted overcoat made to look as if it were snatched off the back of a Mongolian king way ahead of his time, sartorially speaking. Aside from the sumptuousness of the collection, there were certain standout pieces that really showcased Akhmadullina’s couture training: slip dresses with layered velvet and satin pattern work, black tulle evening gowns with hand-painted silk embroidered patches, and elaborate intarsia knitwear.If the St. Petersburg–based designer’s current story is her rise to fame in the States, it’s clear from this collection, and her Spring 2017 offering, that the plotline is very much in her favor. Though her clothes may look unapproachable from farther away (note: the sweater with the giant fur wolf creeping across its surface), it’s obvious that with some of her newer separates she’s making headway with American retailers—Akhmadullina is currently available at Moda Operandi and in Curve boutiques in the U.S.. As for next season, we’re quite sure that she will be giving us another page-turner.
7 December 2016
Founder: Alena AkhmadullinaYear established: 2001Known for: Ethereal themes and the use of furSpring 2017 inspiration: Continuing the Slavic folklore theme of her past collections, Akhmadullina gave her pieces a fairy-tale feel. Dresses had her signature hand-stitched embroidery, while an abstract dragon made a cool cameo on a skirt set.Worn by: Amal Clooney, Angelina Jolie, Georgia May Jagger
18 October 2016
Alena Akhmadullinais one of the most successful designers in Russia. Her way of dipping into fantasy and using a variety of rich fabrics has solidified her appeal with the country’s elite. But Akhmadullina has bigger plans than simply maintaining an oligarch client base: She’s trying to break into the Western market. In turn, she is now paring back much of the more intense, homeland-appealing looks, but is still keeping the luxury aesthetic she’s best known for. This season, refreshing deviations from her more ornate styles included a tan wrap dress that was embellished with geometric patterns (an abstract translation of a dragon) and a cashmere cardigan that was embroidered with fox fur. Akhmadullina also introduced strong footwear, including ugly-pretty slides in white shaggy and short emerald green fur.One thing that Akhmadullina doesn’t need to change for any market is her work with fur outerwear—it’s what she’s most skilled at. In a standout coat, she fused turquoise astrakhan together with mink, to give the piece a 3-D trompe l’oeil effect. It’s a head-turning piece that will keep her Russian customers loyal, and pique the interest of Western shoppers.
19 July 2016
Founder: Alena AkhmadullinaYear established: 2001Known for: A fairy-tale take on detailed embroidery, the use of fur, and ethereal sweeping dressesFall 2016 inspiration: A luxe bohemian translation of the story of King Gesar and the nomadic styles of Mongolia and Tibet, resulting in plush fur coats with intricate, Turkmen-style embroidery, as well as the use of leather harnessesWorn by:Amal Clooney,Angelina Jolie Pitt,Lauren Santo Domingo,Georgia May Jagger
15 March 2016
Founded by: Alena AkhmadullinaYear established: 2001Known for: Formal gowns that sometimes draw on the idioms of traditional Russian dressWorn by: Naomi Campbell, Eva Green
23 October 2015
Founded by: Alena AkhmadullinaYear established: 2001Known for: Formal gowns that sometimes draw on the idioms of traditional Russian dressWorn by: Naomi Campbell, Eva Green
28 March 2015