Arkadius (Q2708)
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Arkadius is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Arkadius |
Arkadius is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Think of Arkadius as the Alexander McQueen of Poland. Fully embracing the more theatrical side of London's Central Saint Martins college, the Slavic designer has, in past shows, “given birth” on the runway and brandished a rubber cast of his own severed head at the audience for a finale.Arkadius' Spring collection, relatively low on dramatics compared to past performances, was based on a Catholic theme, the adoration of the Virgin. Beginning with a shaven-headed, bare-breasted “Mary” festooned with crucifixes and a crown of thorns, the show converted embroidery usually seen on priestly vestments into pants and dresses, while interspersing padded 3-D appliqués of the Madonna and Child and the Sacred Heart onto tops. In between, there were calmer moments where Arkadius worked with lace, georgette ruffles and paisley for party dresses with complicated cuts. Then the show reverted to a religious climax as a model paraded, in gold brocade pants, with her face inserted into an icon.One poignant sight was the singular back view of a red jacket, with a dove of peace embroidered on the back.
16 September 2001
"Prostitution" was the theme for what Arkadius described as his most salable collection to date. "This is a reaction to those who attack designers because they create commercial clothes," said Arkadius, proudly wearing a jacket stamped with call-girl ads. "Are designers prostitutes when we meet people halfway?"Arkadius did show less extravagant clothes than usual, including net tops and plenty of sensible skirts and jackets with flattering button trims. "Until my dream of streets that look like catwalks comes true," said Arkadius, "designers have to find a way to survive." But no one need worry that the Polish-born designer will be competing with the Gap anytime soon; his presentation still featured plenty of independent-minded verve. Loose pinstripe pants were worn with a sleeveless knit top that looked as if it were about to disintegrate; sheepskin dresses, muskrat corsets and head-trapping balloons shouldn't be turning up in corporate boardrooms anytime soon.
17 February 2001
There was certainly no shortage of creativity at Arkadius' bizarrely bucolic London show. The Polish designer turned to his homeland for inspiration, referencing farm life with colorfully trimmed linens, flowing cottons and foulards wrapped around the head.Intrigued by how little the style of dressing in his country has changed, Arkadius took it upon himself to suggest new possibilities. With skillful draping, ruching and cutting, he managed to turn perfectly quaint frocks into sexy, in-your-face ensembles. Arkadius' new country maiden wears slinky strapless dresses with colorful bird prints, white leather pants with gathered sides or cutouts, frayed topstitched jeans with ankle boots, and slash-cut skirts. But that's not all: there was a blood- (or faux blood-) drenched shirt, a top made out of straw and plastic birds, and a model carrying a dress suspended by two poles in front of her.Arkadius delivered an invigorating burst of energy after the more commercial collections of New York, yet his presentation was at times repetitive and would have benefited from some careful editing.
23 September 2000
The first outfit was a tiny minidress with a metallic lace top that covered the model's face. Her hand was linked to her feet with miles of gold chains—she did a good job making it to the end of the runway in all that armor. Outfit No. 2 was another miniscule dress with a giant hood decorated with porcupine quills. You get the picture. Polish-born Arkadius, in his second season, makes mad, mad clothes—the kind you come to London to see. Along with the arty insanity there were some fabulous ideas such as the foam dress, which made its wearer look as though she were an elegant mushroom; and the sweater with foam arms, which created the weird impression that the model had four arms. On a more practical note, Arkadius had one heavenly cream coat that combined wool and fur. Fur as fabric is the trendiest texture for next season. You saw it here first.
13 February 2000