Tomas Maier Eponymous Label (Q8002)
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Tomas Maier Eponymous Label is a fashion house from BOF.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Tomas Maier Eponymous Label |
Tomas Maier Eponymous Label is a fashion house from BOF. |
Statements
Tomas Maier has taken a turn for the trendy. There are slogan tees and fanny packs in his new lineup—a real surprise from Maier, who has long belonged to the school of thought that subtlety is king both at Bottega Veneta and at his namesake label. He said he took his inspiration this season from New York’s early hip-hop scene and the Spike Lee movieShe’s Gotta Have It. Those references gave him the blouson-y shape of a reversible color-blocked windbreaker, the oversize proportions of chunky ribbed sweaters, bucket hats, and the cassette tape graphic that decorated many pieces, including the fanny packs. That last retro detail could attract a new customer base, which is most likely its raison d’être. Cassette tapes are to millennials as eight tracks were to Generation Xers, anachronisms so unlikely they seem novel.The clients who’ve appreciated Maier’s sense of subtlety all along will find the colorful tracksuits, specialty denim, and casual-luxe knits that the designer so reliably delivers. If they do sample from the more unexpected parts of this collection, it’s a good bet that it’ll be the scribbled face intarsias and prints. They jibe better with Maier’s own well-known obsession with art. More likely, though, they’ll be drawn to pieces like the understated, but quite clever, tailored washed wool pants with the pull-on waist. They look like trousers yet feel like sweatpants. Sounds like something his loyalists would buy in multiple.
17 June 2018
Tomas Maier has taken a turn for the trendy. There are slogan tees and fanny packs in his new lineup—a real surprise from Maier, who has long belonged to the school of thought that subtlety is king both at Bottega Veneta and at his namesake label. He said he took his inspiration this season from New York’s early hip-hop scene and the Spike Lee movieShe’s Gotta Have It. Those references gave him the blouson-y shape of a reversible color-blocked windbreaker, the oversize proportions of chunky ribbed sweaters, bucket hats, and the cassette tape graphic that decorated many pieces, including the fanny packs. That last retro detail could attract a new customer base, which is most likely its raison d’être. Cassette tapes are to millennials as eight tracks were to Generation Xers, anachronisms so unlikely they seem novel.The clients who’ve appreciated Maier’s sense of subtlety all along will find the colorful tracksuits, specialty denim, and casual-luxe knits that the designer so reliably delivers. If they do sample from the more unexpected parts of this collection, it’s a good bet that it’ll be the scribbled face intarsias and prints. They jibe better with Maier’s own well-known obsession with art. More likely, though, they’ll be drawn to pieces like the understated, but quite clever, tailored washed wool pants with the pull-on waist. They look like trousers yet feel like sweatpants. Sounds like something his loyalists would buy in multiple.
11 May 2018
Tomas Maier couldn’t be present in his showroom today while his Fall collection was being displayed, so he kindly sent an email with a few quotes. It seemed proof of his German polite precision, a quality that feels ingrained in many aspects of his cultivated oeuvre. As the saying goes, the leopard cannot change its spots.Maier launched his eponymous line in 1997 from Miami, a sunny place that he clearly adores, where he opened a concept store around the same time as Colette in Paris. The quality of his meticulous editing has stayed consistent throughout the 20 years of his career, and has never been celebrated with pomp or fanfare, but almost swept under the carpet. Discretion over loudness is Maier’s mantra—not a behavior shared by many other designers.“As always, the idea of casual and ease and a notion of escape set the tone for the collection,” he wrote via email. These concepts always feature prominently in his vision, as if to counterbalance his demanding, rigorous work ethic. Maier’s quality standards are extremely high; the wordcasualdoesn’t actually seem to apply to his style, even if it’s used to describe the simplest bathing suit to wear on a beach in Florida. Eventually, simplicity is just the distilled expression of ultimate sophistication, is it not?Even Maier’s notion of ease has a disciplined feel to it. In his Fall collection, where shapes and fit were soft and relaxed, designed for enjoying outdoor activities and free time, there was a sense of elegance and calm composure. Luxurious understatement reigns supreme chez Tomas Maier.Simple lines and streamlined silhouettes defined a lineup in which leisure pieces were given the luxe treatment via made-in-Italy fabrics. Soft velvet corduroys, felted and washed wools, peach cotton canvas, and wool fleece flannels were supple, giving a feel of softness to sport-inspired, functional pieces. A group of checkered shirts, slightly padded peacoats, Bermudas, and blousons, freely combined with a mismatched effect, looked cleverly versatile. Noteworthy and molto Maier were the drawstring corduroy pants, cut straight and comfortable in vibrant shades of emerald and lemon, worn with light nylon jackets and bombers in a warm palette of nutmeg or tobacco. Although designed as a believable wardrobe of transitional, easily mixed, no-nonsense pieces, the collection had Maier’s distinctive imprimatur of elegant, slightly blasé ease. Function follows form—and not the other way around.
13 January 2018
Hydrogen bombs, Harvey, Irma. The world feels like it’s spinning out of control with sustained winds of 145 mph. How’s a designer supposed to react? Tomas Maier is choosing optimism. His new collection for Spring is awash with color, print, and airy shapes. As usual—and in contrast to his elevated work at Bottega Veneta—the focus here is on easy-to-wear clothes. The lookbook opens and closes with tracksuits, you’ll notice. But if these pieces are designed for ease, they’re not without their considered details. Metal eyelets, for example, run down the outside of black cotton pant legs. When we said airy, we really meant it.Even more compelling are the pieces that Maier calls “transformers.” Black sweaters come with buttons and interior straps you can manipulate to wear different ways (on the shoulder or off, loose or fitted through the waist). Having experimented with knits like this before, he’s expanding the concept to dresses and outerwear, and the dresses—in solid cotton poplin or graphic block prints with woven nylon straps circling the midriff and accenting the shoulders—are the stars of this collection. Maier has a collaboration with Puma launching this week. He’s redesigned the 1968 Roma in a debossed leather and went to the trouble of finding the precise color of rubber used for the nearly 50-year-old original. As we said, well considered.
7 September 2017
Comfort and ease are Tomas Maier’s calling card—have been since he relaunched this label and started opening stores a few years ago. But he doubled down for Fall, and that goes for this season’s day clothes, as well as his after-dark offering. Knits of all kinds were the story here. Baby cashmere dresses had a loose day-off silhouette on the hanger, but smartened right up cinched with leather belts in the lookbook. Knitted red sweatpants with ribbed cuffs worn unzipped over stacked-heel boots and a matching knit sweatshirt evoked the “I fly private” vibe of celebrities and supermodels in airport paparazzi shots. Maier accessorized the sweatsuit with a generous turtleneck/wrap stole hybrid that chicly stood in for a coat or jacket. Even his suiting comes in felted gray jersey this season, meaning that a tailored double-breasted jacket and pleated trousers will feel as good on as a favorite cardigan and pj’s.That said, Maier fully comprehends the pleasure women find in dressing up. For those occasions, he’s proposing flirty dresses in a subtle, resolutely un-saccharine tone-on-tone heart print, and complementary enamel heart jewelry. The blue velvet jumpsuit in the heart motif was particularly winning. A trio of long black viscose jersey dresses in T-shirt, caftan, and slip silhouettes promise to travel well; “they weigh nothing,” the designer said. More room in your carry-on for platform sandals featuring a laser-cut Art Deco motif lifted from the landmark Fuller Building that houses Maier’s office.
3 February 2017
HousedressandTomas Maieraren’t words I thought I’d ever string together, but what can I do? The designer used the humble housedress as a starting point for his brand’s Pre-Fall collection. Admittedly, you’ll have to look hard to find them, but there are a couple in the mix: simple A-line dresses in washed cotton poplin. In the end, more than the silhouette, it was the notion of the housedress that informed the collection. Maier has his Bottega Veneta gig; the point of his TM clothes is that they’re no-brainers: uncomplicated, unfussy, and reasonably well priced while remaining elegant.The navy viscose satin dresses he opened with surely fit that bill. Their appeal is obvious, right there at the surface in the case of the version with the velvet leaf embroidery. Other pieces will require a trip to the fitting room and a helpful salesperson to understand their value. A washed-silk dress comes with a built-in drawstring across the inside of the shoulders; wear it behind the shoulders or in front for two different neckline shapes. (He also applied the concept to a shirt.) A trio of garment-dyed cardigans had their own unique versatility feature: partial zips at the front of the armholes that allow you to wear them long-sleeved or short. Most of us have too much stuff. It’s nice to see a designer like Maier addressing that surfeit with truly new ideas.
2 December 2016
Coastalandcampusare two key words to understandingTomas Maier’s new Spring collection. The seaside and school-days vibes weren’t overworked, but they did up the ease and sport factors in a lineup that is targeted at urbane, metropolitan types. Well, even power brokers need their downtime. Next season, they can dress for it in a color-blocked sports jersey featuring a printed and flocked floral motif on the chest that evoked both Hawaii and street graffiti, and matching jersey bottoms that hybridized track pants and dress trousers. Maier, who is celebrating his 15th anniversary at Bottega Veneta in Milan later this month, is a keen observer of detail, and he incorporated authentic ones into outerwear inspired by a sailor’s slicker. Taped seams mean his white waxed-cotton cape is truly seaworthy, even if it’s more likely to hit the New York streets than the Atlantic.Themes aside, the most desirable pieces were Maier’s dresses. A pair of white cotton poplin styles hand-painted along the edges looked breezily terrific. Even better was a trio of meadow flower–printed silk tea dresses that he showed with flat slides.
8 September 2016
Chalk it up to the fact that he lives part of the year in Florida, or that he spends a lot of time on planes flying around the world for his creative director gig atBottega Veneta, butTomas Maierexcels at the art of takeaway clothes. And not just triangle bikinis, flower-print maillots with matching short shorts, and terry-cloth cover-ups. Maier’s new Resort collection was built to move in lots of ways. There’s the one-and-done ease of a pull-on ribbed-knit dress, the day-or-night versatility of a grass green taffeta jumpsuit, and the weightless, wash-it-in-the-sink simplicity of cotton poplin shirts. Not even his evening options were precious. On the contrary, his duchesse satin dresses were finished with large plastic zips; in the lookbook he paired them with sneakers.The thing to remember with Maier is that easy doesn’t mean unconsidered. His nylon windbreakers were garment-dyed; darker around the seams and pockets, they look like they’ve enjoyed years of sailboat trips and walks through the woods. For a perfectionist, he has a surprising fixation with clothes looking lived-in and worn, seen here also on suede separates like a tee, full skirt, and culottes. As he did at Bottega Veneta, Maier amped up the color. A peephole-neck, tea-length dress in a micro-floral was especially sweet.
24 May 2016