Tuleh (Q9392)
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Tuleh is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Tuleh |
Tuleh is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
How to create youthful clothes without simply slashing hemlines is the challenge Bryan Bradley tackled for pre-fall. His solution? Modesty-preserving silhouettes done up in contrasting fabrics, such as a chic cocktail dress combining vintage-inspired lace and a splashy neon rose pattern, and a somewhat less successful version with a crocheted floral bodice and camouflage-print skirt. The designer spent time interacting with his clients on the trunk show circuit this fall, and their opinions shaped the collection. Bradley reissued a series of ruffled chiffon blouses favored as office attire by his clients, while a silk kimono with exaggerated fur cuffs was inspired by a vintage ensemble an Atlanta-based fan was wearing. Talk about a smart way to put the customer first.
7 January 2010
Bryan Bradley is a designer who is much engaged in the world of politics—and the arts, for that matter, and literature. You're as likely to find Lisa Yuskavage, the painter, or a Broadway star in his front row as a member of the ubiquitousGossip Girlcast.Aiming for "more gravitas," Bradley titled this evening's show Fashion as a Short-Story Collection. He was inspired by an article inThe New York Review of Booksby the writer Deborah Eisenberg (whose partner, actor Wallace Shawn, was in attendance, and whose expression throughout was priceless). The collection was divided into distinct parts (i.e. short stories), including a closing segment called Proposition Tuleh. Having turned his sights on the presidential election with his Fall 2008 show, and what he termed "Western entropy versus Eastern ascendancy" for Spring 2007, Bradley this time took on Proposition 8, the California ruling recognizing only marriages between a man and woman as valid. The lineup ended with not one but seven bridal looks, alternating masculine pants or shorts ensembles with feminine dresses and skirts. "They're marrying each other," Bradley explained.The short-story concept was clever, yes, but it fragmented the Tuleh message, siphoning off some of its charm and diffusing a bit of its energy. There was less color and print than usual (here, perhaps, was some of the "gravitas"). On the other hand, there were also enough neat knit cardigan jackets, silky cargo pants, bow-trimmed shorts, skorts, eyelet blazers, and flirty dresses to keep us turning the pages.
12 September 2009
Changes are afoot at Tuleh; undiluted romanticism is giving way to…a touch of active sportswear. Not that you'd wear these clothes anywhere near a gym, but a floral mixed-print gown featured knit baseball shirtsleeves and jackets were cut like sweatshirts. (No jutting, Mugler-referencing shoulders here.) This Resort collection—which was nominally inspired by Nina Simone and had a jazzy mix of watercolor florals, animal prints, lace, and color—is but an "appetizer," we were told, of what is coming for Fall. Consider our appetite whetted.
8 June 2009
Bryan Bradley recently rereadThem, Francine du Plessix Gray's memoir of her parents—Alexander Liberman (of Condé Nast) and Tatiana du Plessix (the model and society milliner), who fled the Nazis in 1941—and he was struck by how germane to our New World these Russian émigrés' spirit of resourcefulness and adaptability was. The designer, who recently sold a stake in his company, is in the throes of his own burst of self-reinvention: He'll soon debut a diffusion line called Bryan Bradley, he's launching an accessories collection, and there's the new interiors business, too. (The latter explained the rugs used as props at the show, held at the New York Design Center.) Although he dresses uptown girls, Bradley has never been a conformist, so it shouldn't come as a surprise that he is in expansion mode just as others are tightening their belts.From the first look, winter-white pants worn with a mannish shirt and jacquard jacket, this was one of the designer's most confident—and dapper—efforts yet. Menswear touches added crispness to a lineup that had all the usual Tuleh charm, minus the hodgepodge quality of some past outings. Unexpected fabrications added interest, too—take the flash of sequins enlivening a mauve-y rose-print dress, or a sleeveless hoodie done in luxe jacquard. One has the sense that Bradley is, at last, feeling at home in his talent.
14 February 2009
For pre-fall, Bryan Bradley was inspired by Naples' Palazzo Reale and its gardens. Winter flower prints decorated everything from dresses with matching cardigans to the silk lining of a standout fur. Embellishments notwithstanding, this was a grounded collection, with a focus on day looks like cashmere polo dresses with ribbon belts. Keeping in that practical vein, Bradley also announced he'll introduce an eponymous contemporary line with pieces starting at $300 during New York fashion week.
4 January 2009
The anniversary trend continues apace. This season, Calvin celebrates 40 years in business, DKNY 20, and Tuleh 10. For an independent brand like Bryan Bradley's—he actually just sold a 49 percent stake in his company earlier this summer—surviving a decade is no small achievement. And the collection he showed in Martha Stewart's West 26th Street offices, which reprised some of his greatest hits and that never felt like a rehash, was a living demonstration of how he did it. In a word,consistency.Fashion has swung back and forth a few times since Bradley began making quirky-pretty dresses for the social set, but the designer hasn't wavered. In tonight's lineup, there were pretty-pretty nipped-waist sheaths, the best in a beaded floral lace; jacquard suits with lantern-sleeve jackets and the narrowest of pencil skirts; and shirred chiffon dresses that demonstrated Bradley's zany taste in mismatched prints (devotees will recognize some of the fabrics from past collections). One of the show's highlights was a thirties siren gown in a black-and-white floral chiffon just sheer enough to reveal the cheeky polka-dot print beneath—and just the thing to woo back any of those followers, who, like that ceaseless fashion pendulum, may have temporarily gone in a different direction.
6 September 2008
Tuleh's Bryan Bradley was after something "happy" when designing his Resort collection. He reached that philosophically elusive goal by concentrating on the sartorial details: polka dots layered under tropical, bright prints; floral-lined cardigans; and one very optimistic blouse that mixed seven fabrics and two colors of hand-painted buttons. A graphic "Wisconsin" coat, meanwhile, was printed with roadside signs remembered from childhood drives with his parents—nice to know that young Bryan was a happy boy.
15 June 2008
The presidential election has Bryan Bradley all jazzed up. On the Tuleh soundtrack, Bobby Kennedy could be heard encouraging love, wisdom, and compassion for one another, and backstage the designer had two words for reporters asking for comments about inspiration: Barack Obama. There's no doubt the campaign trail would look a lot more interesting if our lone female candidate and her peers' significant others donned Bradley's version of a power suit: a lilac jacket, a purple silk shirt, and violet velvet trousers, finished off with a loud gold chain necklace. Or how about a petticoated bustier dress in a lush fern print for the Inaugural Ball?It'll probably never happen, but just knowing that we have options on Super Tuesday is what Bradley's so excited about. Aptly, his Fall lineup was wide-ranging. There were nipped-waist coat-dresses that flared to the knee; prim-and-proper first lady suits à la Jackie; fitted sweaters worn with long, full skirts; and a trio ofrobes de chambre, each with a rich lamé glint. An abstract-print pink and brown chiffon dress topped by a tangerine vest made from what looked like tapestry fabric put the spotlight on the designer's keen sense of color. Not every look here was a vote-getter, but it was hard not to get behind Bradley's newfound enthusiasm.
2 February 2008
This wasn't the most directional show of the week. No zebra safaris or Halston homages here. But it was certainly classic Bryan Bradley. A colorful coat boasted alligator buttons custom-made in New York; a belted navy cardigan topped a neat white skirt; and, in signature fashion, vibrant color played off confident pattern. If any label on the New York schedule has a bespoke quality, this is it.The day before the show, the designer had told Style.com that "the new couture" was on his mind: "Not couture as sanctioned by the Chambre Syndicale, but clothes that look like couture but don't act like it.""Alta Moda in vacanza a Nuova York," the program notes read. And the opening look, a metallic houndstooth coat lined in fuchsia and worn with a matching bow-tied pink sheath, demonstrated exactly what he meant: very polished, very ladylike, but very wearable.Bradley stayed in his comfort zone—and why not? That zone has been very successful of late. Tuleh has a new president, Marco Cattoretti, who is developing new collaborative relationships (Alexis Bittar provided the jewelry for Spring, and Via Spiga produced a capsule collection of shoes); Bradley is currently creating an exclusive collection for Lord & Taylor, too. "I love my job!" he said.
8 September 2007
Think of this pretty-pretty collection as an early valentine. Remember Bryan Bradley¿s luxe Vassar Girl collection a year ago, with its patrician air and pencil skirts? Well, Bradley says, ¿Now she¿s getting married." (Hence the dreamy, sack-backed wedding dress that closed the show.)These are good-looking pieces meant to appeal to the good-looking inhabitants of ZIP codes 10021 and 10012 alike. To win the hearts of the former (a.k.a. Park Avenue girls), there were snug cardigans and an hourglass jacket with fur-muff wrists. The kiss-print dress with a modern leg-of-mutton sleeve and the narrow pants that stretched sexily down over the heel would woo her art-collecting cousin below 23rd Street. As the line was conceived as a continuation of an earlier collection, it didn't stake out much new ground. Not every look was a winner, and we didn't totally lose our heads. But love was definitely in the air.
3 February 2007