Josie Natori (Q4863)
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Josie Natori is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Josie Natori |
Josie Natori is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
For fall 2020, Josie Natori opened her Upper East Side home to editors and buyers for the very first time. Her coffee tables, plush couches, and two grand pianos were carefully pushed to the side to create a runway straight through the middle of her living room. Just before showtime, pianists began to play instrumental versions of upbeat Top 40 tracks, an audible nod to Natori’s approach to mixing old and new.“This collection is probably my most personal,” she explained. “I wanted to narrow in on what I love by showcasing my heritage. After all, I’ve been showing for over 42 years!”The finale look, a flared-sleeve allover sequined gown with giant orchids and a Mandarin collar, was a modern twist on her Philippine roots. Elsewhere, things were simpler and more streamlined: There was versatility to spare in her bright, monochromatic dresses and separates, though much of the collection was colorless—50% to be exact. The sequin embroideries on a dressy blazer were a fresh update on head-to-toe black, but it was the plunging purple gown that really stole the show.Another focus for fall was coats and wraps, Natori’s finishing touch for any look. This collection featured a gold-embroidered shawl, a few blazers with slashed sleeves, and even an off-the-shoulder jacquard jacket. Natori’s aim is for those sleek garments to be worn from day to night, including at the office, but it’s hard to imagine a woman bringing those hand-sewn embellishments and flashy florals into today’s casual workplaces. For an evening at the opera or an uptown soiree, though, the peplum tops and jazzy jumpsuits would definitely fit the bill. What you won’t find in a Natori collection is anything overly trendy or revealing: “I’m the opposite of streetwear,” Natori mused. “I believe in combining femininity and elegance to feel sensual without bearing it all.”
7 February 2020
Spain was on Josie Natori’s mind when she began to consider her Spring 2020 collection. The nation’s traditional dress has long been a reference point for designers, but Natori put her own spin on it. The designer is originally from Manila, and she viewed the Spanish traditions through the lens of their connection to the Philippines. What followed was a meditation on mantillas, caftans, and summertime escapes.Since launching her secondary line last year, Natori has sought to increase the luxury factor within her primary collection. Pieces detailed with floral embroidery and delicate beading or crafted with gossamer-light silks added to the sumptuous feel, but the season’s standout element was embroidery. Swirls and blooms meant to evoke the lacy beauty of mantilla veils were worked onto cocktail dresses and jackets, giving them a luscious beauty. “I wanted something that could be carried from day to night,” said Natori of the detailing, “to keep everything elegant yet easy.”That concept served as the collection’s overarching goal. Fashion Month has no shortage of pretty clothes, but few are as effortless as Natori’s coral suits with cigarette pants or the white linen dresses that required nothing but a pair of sandals and the right attitude. Even showier pieces like the asymmetrical tops with sweeping trains and elaborate embellishment managed to feel carefree.
10 September 2019
Certain destinations strike a chord with designers. Fashion Week cities like Paris and London regularly serve as the inspiration behind collections, but in recent years Marrakech has emerged as an equally familiar reference point. The Moroccan city’s architecture and Zellige tiling are unmistakable, and many attempt to pay tribute to those motifs—how many runway shows owe their existence to Talitha Getty? For Josie Natori, who centered her Resort offerings on Marrakech, the challenge was finding a fresh ways to interpret the well-loved theme.Since repositioning her eponymous line as ultra-luxury, Natori has focused on bringing the best in fabrications to her audience, and the sumptuous textiles allowed for several riffs on geometric patterns that echoed the look of decorative tile work. Black-and-white silk tops with belted sashes and day dresses featured the evocative print, as did an embroidered day dress and lightweight coat. Lace meant to echo arabesque shapes made its way onto puffed sleeves and hemlines—a simple touch that made the all-black pieces feel summery.Lingerie is essential to Natori’s brand DNA, and the addition of two lace mini-dresses brought a bit of sultriness to the collection. Still, the overarching mood was minimal and understated. The decadent bohemian flavor typically associated with Marrakech may have been missing, but Natori’s core clientele is unlikely to complain.
13 June 2019
“We have repositioned this brand in a more luxurious space,” said Josie Natori about her Fall 2019 collection in her midtown showroom. The results were rich embroideries and equally rich fabrics. Take a pair of cropped gold flares, so shiny they were reminiscent of gold bars, that were splattered with regal purple floral prints. Here, the slits up the front legs added a kicky, youthful punch. There was a matching jacket with an elegantly elongated mandarin collar, a signature feature in Natori’s label. The designer often draws from Eastern cultures and is from the Philippines herself.While bold prints and luxe fabrics were the focus—a factor that will appeal to a more established clientele—many of the standouts were the tailored, solid-hued looks that had the potential to attract a younger customer base. One good example was a thick black brocade jacket that came with slits up the sleeves and was tied around the waist with a rope belt to nicely cinch the body’s silhouette. Another blouse had super-dramatic foot-wide flared sleeves. A stellar merger of the fresh glam appeal and the more pared-back palettes was a black, super-sculpted blazer and pant set that included silver-threaded embroidery and beading that appeared almost scrubbed into the arms and legs—a look that could captivate all age ranges.
12 February 2019
The dragonflies that flutter across the prints and embroideries in Josie Natori’s Spring collection come from a special place. Meeting up with her mother in Paris earlier this year, Natori saw her wearing a brooch bearing an insect in tribute to the dragonfly that flew into her husband’s mausoleum on the day of his burial. The symbolism is potent, but Natori kept the clothes light with an “escape to wonderland” concept and timeless pieces designed for women used to traversing the globe.Though a specific destination wasn’t specified, travel served as a theme with poplin blouses, a refined take on the anorak, and patterned separates ideal for trips where options are needed but overpacking is frowned upon. With the bulk of the first half in shades of slate and cream, almost everything can be mixed and matched into multiple looks—a must for pragmatist Natori, who remains mindful of her customer’s busy lifestyle.Even the flights of fancy were designed to be easy. A draped black jumpsuit with a slinky vibe was delivered in bi-stretch crepe for ultimate comfort, while showstopping embroidered pieces with pastel flowers blooming across transparent overlays were offered in multiple options with cocktail dresses or relaxed trousers available depending on the wearer’s mood.Spring 2019 has been a season of change for Natori, who expanded her youthful Josie line into a full range of bohemian sportswear. With dresses and hoodies inspired by ceremonial kimonos and suzanis, the global messaging now carries over into a lower price point and more casual look. Still, there was plenty of ease to appreciate within the main line.
8 September 2018
As weather patterns change and retail rules are rewritten by an international clientele, the old ideas about seasons seem to no longer apply. With its prolonged shelf life, Resort requires designers to create looks that can be worn all year round, a concept Josie Natori embraced. After skipping the pre-collections last year, the designer filled her latest offering with fail-safe pieces that married classic touches and splashy prints with an easygoing sensibility that allowed for a few surprises. Ornate details were added to utilitarian items, like a rain slicker with a hood covered in embroidered flowers, and dark denim was amped up by the addition of graphic designs along the side seams. Dressed down is not Natori’s forte, but in recent years she’s successfully adapted casual staples to suit her aesthetic. Here, she had fun playing with the codes of athleticwear, adding volume to bomber jackets to create sculptural shapes, providing souped-up versions of sweatshirts, and generally ignoring the idea that comfortable has to mean sloppy.Of course it wouldn’t be a Natori collection without her signatures. Lingerie wasn’t the focus, but as always she infused the category’s romanticism into her wares. Breezy maxi dresses with color-blocked prints were covered in soft pink brushstrokes, while mesh draped separates showed a hint of skin via their transparency. Even workwear got an ultra-feminine update with ruffles making their way onto formfitting day dresses and jumpsuits.
15 June 2018
Josie Natori believes in versatility. “I wanted to give women options,” said Natori as she walked through her Fall 2018 collection. “These days, fashion has to work for you.” True to her word, Natori used the season to explore a series of motifs rendered in different fabrications, styles, and colors. Fans of her elegant embroidery will find blooming orchids on asymmetrical skirts, slim-fitting trousers, and blouses. Those in search of her exquisite handmade lace can go for the drama of a tiered, ruffled covered dress or the simplicity of a lacy T-shirt. The range of looks and price points ensured that there was something for everyone, but it also provided a cohesive sensibility that connected each of the pieces to a singular ideal.Continuing the East-meets-West feel that has become one of the brand’s trademarks, Natori looked to the stylized shapes of Art Deco and Art Nouveau for inspiration. Though there was a touch of Louis Comfort Tiffany to the look of the swirling peacock drawings Natori covered in crystals and beading on the backs of bomber jackets, or stitched onto cardigans that resembled classic opera coats, there was modernity amid the pastiche. Nodding to the current taste for eveningwear with an edge, Natori amped things up with a sumptuous metallic jacquard that covered motorcycle jackets, miniskirts, and a pair of cropped flares with glam-rock appeal.
16 February 2018
After celebrating her 40th anniversary last season with a collection that revisited her brand’s hallmarks, Josie Natori was ready to delve into fresh territory for Spring. “I wanted something really fresh and light after our 40th, clothes that were happy and peaceful,” said the designer at the label’s midtown headquarters. By focusing on a tropical theme that nodded to her Filipino roots while providing the desired cheerfulness, Natori played with the idea of floral prints—a subject close to her heart. “Flowers are something that I’m very passionate about, particularly peonies,” she said. “So the whole thing was centered on that, from the prints to the embroideries.”By working the blooms into halter tops covered in swirling 3-D–printed versions and covering knee-length skirts in a spray of petals, Natori put her favorite flower front and center, but it wasn’t the sole point of interest. With cranes stitched into crop tops, and denim jackets and ruffles serving as a recurring theme, the details were uniformly pretty. White blouses fit for the workweek and brocade jumpsuits that seemed ready for cocktail hour were shown. The collection’s whimsy was balanced by an adult sense of pragmatism. Natori’s woman may enjoy a bit of froufrou ornamentation, but she’s no naïf.Oversize brooches, earrings, and hair jewelry took the peony motif to its logical end point. Natori may have shouted her theme rather than whispered it, but with crowd-pleasing pieces delivered in a lush palette of zesty yellows and pale pinks, the end result was as uplifting as she intended.
14 September 2017
Josie Natori is celebrating 40 years in business this season. Given the current state of the fashion industry—brands shuttering, creative directors coming and going—that milestone feels especially impressive. Natori started her label back in 1977 with lingerie, a category that’s still going strong, but her business sense likely played a big part in her brand’s longevity. You may not know that before making the switch to fashion, Natori was the first woman to become vice president of investment banking at Merrill Lynch.So, the designer is something of a feminist icon—and represents the immigrant success story too, having moved to the United States from her native Philippines in the ’60s to attend college. Over the past four decades, she’s never forgotten her heritage and has introduced her customer to other Eastern cultures that inspire her, from China to Japan to Indonesia. Natori combed through the archives for her anniversary collection, whipping up couture-level hand-embroidered gowns as well as practical velvet dresses that feel quintessentially Natori. The points of departure came via new colors; she pointed out a bright, kaleidoscopic silk dragon print, which deviated from her usual black, red, and white motifs. “This is the first time I’ve ever done a multicolored dragon print,” she explained. It would be a bold look for Natori’s most loyal clientele, but the shimmering gold and silver wrap jacket was subtler and arguably prettier.Other highlights included a fuzzy cocoon coat, which Natori jokingly compared to a carpet, and a pair of wide-leg black trousers with a beige pagoda and tree motif. From afar, it appeared to be a print, but a closer look revealed it was all intricately embroidered. It was a gorgeous twist on the standard-issue black pant. Many editors in the room were gravitating to the accessories too, namely the chunky medallion earrings and dragon-printed pantyhose. They’ll be a fun, light-hearted way for new customers—particularly young ones—to step into the Natori world.
15 February 2017
Josie Natoriis toasting her company’s 40th anniversary next year, and like many designers who reach a major milestone, she’s feeling nostalgic. She’s looking back through her archives, which are justifiably expansive—she launched her label in 1977 with lingerie, a business that’s still going strong—but Natori is also drawing inspiration from the personal treasures she’s acquired over the years. She collects vintage Japanese kimonos, so for Pre-Fall she reinterpreted one as a brocade jacket. That won’t register as much of a surprise to her regular shoppers; an East Asian vibe is central to Natori’s oeuvre, with notes of her Filipino heritage mixed with rich colors and embellishments culled from trips to Istanbul or Mongolia.In stark contrast to all of that, the most noteworthy development here was all-American: her first jeans. It’s hard to believe it took Natori four decades to experiment with denim, but she admits she was never a jeans-and-T-shirt kind of girl. “Growing up in the Philippines, I always associated jeans with a Western look,” she said. Her take on casualwear has always been a bit more elevated: tunics with matching pants, printed dresses, oversize jewelry. Her first foray into denim is likewise elevated; Natori nixed of-the-moment trends (no distressed denim here), instead incorporating her signature embroideries. Her dark-rinse jeans were cut more like trousers; styled with a matching embroidered jacket, the look was a modern update on the 9-to-5 suit. The denim trench made a bigger impact: With swirling embroideries and flared sleeves, it was the sort of thing Natori herself might layer over a cocktail dress.
14 December 2016
DesignerJosie Natori’s company The Natori Company is well known for its group of successful businesses, including lingerie, sleepwear, and bedding lines. According to the designer’s son, The Natori Company president Kenneth Natori, who was present at today’s Upper East Side presentation of Spring ready-to-wear, this season was significant in solidifying the company as a lifestyle brand. To accomplish that goal, this collection’s aesthetic went in a different direction than it had in previous seasons. Natori’s oft-cited homeland of the Philippines and its craftsmanship were both present in the embroidery and prints, but with a lighter, younger air. The first sign of youth? A bit of midriff, which was refreshing. A copper raffia bralette with fringe added a jolt of cool to a simple tan wrap skirt, and a cream bralette gave a peplum jacket some edge. Not everything needed to show skin for a youthful feel, though; a metallic jacquard pantsuit was just as fresh thanks to a pair of trousers that were cropped and flared.There were some pieces that would still attract customers who don’t want to flash their mid-section. An olive green tie-front dress with embroidered sleeves and hem was pretty, and a sleeveless shirtdress looked classic. Worn over a silk slip dress was a metallic jacquard bomber jacket with cropped sleeves—a statement piece that the Josie Natori customer will want to scoop up no matter how much skin they choose to bare.
9 September 2016
Few designers embrace Resort’s escapist mentality likeJosie Natori. Her new collection didn’t have any of the fur, chunky knits, or jeans other brands have shown this season—quite the opposite, actually. Beaded and embroidered caftans in tropical hues such as chartreuse and melon would fare well on a trip to St. Barth’s, and sheer, gauzy separates including ever-popular culottes were splashed with colors that seemed lifted from a Gauguin painting. Natori likes the idea of adding a jolt to your wardrobe; even her black-and-white pieces came with abstract graphics and sculptural silhouettes, like a cropped jacket with rounded sleeves. Those types of items have year-round appeal, but this was mostly a lineup of take-away, vacation-ready looks. “Winter clothes are already being marked down by then, so why would you add more?” she mused. She certainly has a point.Overall, the collection was a nice mix of Natori signatures, such as tunics with matching pants (seen here in an almost-neon jacquard) and East Asian–inspired embellishments like iridescent beading and laser-cut leatherwork. It would’ve been good to see some softer, more comfortable shapes and textures, though; almost every look had a sharp, decisive sleekness to it, which photographs well but can feel stiff in real life.
3 June 2016
Josie Natoripicked the iconic Doubles Club at the Sherry Netherland Hotel—which she said “is almost like a private club to me”—as the setting to debut her latest outing. It was a fittingly opulent and Old World backdrop for a collection Natori said was inspired by the ’70s, the decade in which she founded her namesake brand (and no doubt often frequented Doubles Club, which opened in ’76). There were no bell-bottoms or crop tops in sight, though: Instead, Natori chose to celebrate the hedonism and extravagance of the decade, rather than necessarily pay homage to its fashion contributions.The strongest looks played into this theme unabashedly: Standouts included a black column gown with intricate gold beading and Natori’s signature silhouette—a tunic with matching pants—in lustrous gold. On the other hand, a sapphire blue shift with black beading felt a little flat, though it was very much in her wheelhouse.There was a sleekness—as in the black, illusion python column gown—as well as a sexiness—as in the sheer, long-sleeve lace dress—which proved that Natori’s years spent designing lingerie have prepared her to take on eveningwear. She is wise to focus on that direction.
11 February 2016
Last season,Josie Natorifocused on eveningwear, and the designer was still in the party spirit for Pre-Fall: According to a representative of the brand, the collection is one of its most elevated—and also the most evening-ready. Natori did away with all knits and instead employed a sleeker crepe on shift dresses and blouses. The silhouette was slightly slimmer and the hemline slightly higher (after five o’clock, don’t we all want to show a little bit more skin?).If the collection appeared elevated, it was in a quiet way: There were only two prints, and even those were actually woven jacquards (the muted leopard was particularly nice). Elsewhere, Natori mostly stuck to red, black, and white. It was subtle but clever. Pieces such as an embellished bolero or an embroidered leather coat spoke to transitional dressing, the hallmark of Pre-Fall, in more ways than one. Each could be worn day or night and provided just enough coverage for the in-between season, a smart design choice that Natori’s loyal clients will no doubt appreciate.
7 January 2016
ForFall,Josie Natorimined Istanbul for inspiration. ForSpring, she trained her eye a little farther east. “The whole collection is inspired by Asian painting,” said the designer at today’s presentation—her first eveningwear-only outing.Natori said she was fascinated by calligraphy, and wanted to “experiment with brushstrokes.” To that end, an asymmetrical dress featured a straightforward black-and-white brushstroke, but Natori also used crystal embellishments to create the same effect on a white column dress and a black basket-weave gown (one of the strongest looks). “You really can’t go wrong with black and white,” she remarked, dressed in a chic black shift dress.But color wasn’t off the table entirely. The designer honored the season by playing with vibrant, slightly off-kilter color combinations. An expertly tailored fuchsia strapless tunic layered over orange stovepipe pants was a memorable look. Some of the kimono-inspired ensembles verged on being too literal, but Natori hit her stride when she incorporated elements of the traditional garb in subtler ways, as in the case of a pea green raw silk strapless number with an embellished obi-inspired neckline. “That,” said Natori, almost shyly, “is one of my favorites.”
11 September 2015
When the first of Resort hits stores in late October, those in the North are after winter coats, while those in the South are still wearing sleeveless dresses. For Josie Natori, that meant delivering a collection built from year-round fabrics. Stretchy, textured jacquard was made into cropped, wide-leg pants available in black for New York, white for Palm Beach. Black-and-white-blocked, doubled-faced jersey was fashioned into a mod tunic. Natori had fun adding artful embellishments to her daywear, from a pink shift embroidered with painterly brushstrokes to a white coat stitched with a static-like pattern across the front. Each line of stitching was hand-pulled at the ends so that it looked as though it were unraveling. "Nothing here is made by a computer," the designer quipped.In this increasingly crowded marketplace, Natori is aware that her customer has plenty of options. Her goal, it seems, is to make good-looking things that are worthy of their consideration. For instance, a collarless V-neck dress in raspberry-colored jacquard was practical and chic—and could easily be worn no matter what the current temperature. "You don't have to think so hard about it," Natori said. In this case, that's a good thing.
18 June 2015
To Josie Natori, Istanbul is the cradle of civilization. Where East meets West, antiquity meets modernity. And, translated for her runway, where opulence meets everyday. "I'm a sucker for going to the bazaars and the souks," said Natori backstage before the show. "Istanbul inspired us in terms of shape and layering. It's an extravaganza of textures, embellishment, and layering for daytime."And how. The girls wore extra-tall fezzes and bold hammered-gold bib necklaces and belts (handmade in Natori’s native Philippines) that seemed over-the-top in contrast to some seriously grown-up clothing. The designer crafted rich cashmeres and matelassé jacquards into dresses and skirts that flared to reference a whirling dervish's skirt. These were worn under fringed and embroidered jackets, coats, and oversize shawls in a palette that swung from calming black, gray, burgundy, and navy to bright chartreuse. At times there was one detail too many. But then Natori would show restraint with a great black wool swing coat with fake fur appliqués or a set of beautifully constructed, simple winter white dresses with trapunto stitching, and none of the tricky styling mattered. The best proof, though, was Natori herself, who took a bow in a shorter belted version of Look 32, a white-embroidered black wool vest.
11 February 2015
Josie Natori is known for her East-meets-West aesthetic, but for Pre-Fall, she embraced casual dressing. Denim was a big message, and the designer spun a deep, soft indigo into fit-and-flare dresses, boxy jackets, and a suit. Frayed edges kept things laid-back and youthful, while subtle cream embroidery spoke to Natori's love of embellishment. For her more dressed-up garments, she continued to experiment with 3-D appliqués, like blown-up circles that created a ripple effect (they were originally inspired by Istanbul ceramics and tilework). They looked convincing on a black-and-white polka-dot dress with contrasting fabric on the reverse. Elsewhere, Natori "feminized" men's suiting by using a charcoal pinstriped material for a handkerchief-hem skirt, peplum blouse, and A-line dress. "It's about tweaking our signature shapes," she said. In the end, she may have fared better choosing a bolder stripe—this one is so faint you almost miss it. The collection's standouts included a bright crimson "fortune cookie" coat with origami sleeves, and a belted vest that could also be styled as a jacket or dress.
4 December 2014
On the first official day of New York Fashion Week, Josie Natori's island-themed Spring '15 show offered one last summer escape for showgoers in for a long month of collections. Drawing inspiration from her native Philippines and its surrounding tropical destinations, the designer kicked things off with neutral, sandy-toned looks featuring East Asian pieces—often decorated with intricate embroidery—such as open robes, obi belts, and asymmetric tops that wrapped over one shoulder. But given that Natori herself greeted guests in tailored, head-to-toe chartreuse, we knew we were in store for something a bit more colorful.She quickly segued into a series of citrus-hued pajama separates (which spoke to the label's original prowess in leisurewear, but occasionally felt a bit tired) cut from languid silk, before introducing hothouse floral prints on a pick-me-up of a jumpsuit about halfway through. Natori embraced pattern again for her finale, during which every model took a runway lap to Pharrell's hit "Happy" in a basic white shirt paired with a vibrant sarong or palazzo pants. Among the other memorable moments were a raw indigo duster coat, handcrafted wooden or brass accessories, and a billowing black dressing gown styled over a plunging maillot worthy of Rihanna.
3 September 2014
"I love the fabric, it's so substantial," Josie Natori said of the neoprene, knit jacquard, and bonded jersey that dominated her latest Resort collection. "You can't go from Fall and then all of the sudden to…limp."Nearly every look had a strong shape to it, from the black neoprene V-neck dress with wide sleeves that hit at the wrist to the chartreuse cotton frock with raw edges that gave an otherwise polished piece a bit of texture. More relaxed separates, such as a silk-cashmere shawl cardigan and matching cowl-neck sweater, were cinched together with a metal belt for structure.Embellishment is a big seller for Natori. But instead of doing the typical beading, she added appliquéd swirls of tulle ribbons to dresses, tops, and collarless jackets. It was particularly eye-catching on a black-and-white V-neck dress and matching coat. A tasteful but refreshing approach.Natori is better than most at designing for her particular audience: professional women who simply want to look attractive. Clad in a skirt from the collection and a sweater from a past season, the designer was also a wonderful advertisement for her work.
3 June 2014
For a designer who built her name on pretty negligees and underpinnings, Josie Natori can cut a mean coat. Her new Fall collection, which was inspired by "the richness of Russia's cultural heritage," offered covetable outerwear for every day of the week. Natori opened with a series of dark gray looks whipped up from a double bonded jersey that yielded strong, sleek shapes. Admittedly, that colorway wasn't much of a pick-me-up following a morning spent slushing through the city's sidewalks. But the show quickly transitioned to a monochromatic winter white moment, including a beautiful felted wool cape, then kept the ball rolling with a handful of tie-dye-effect toppers that seemed like bait for fashion editorials. In general, the variety of lush materials and textures incorporated here—embossed pony velvet, knitted rabbit fur, panne velvet, jet beading—was admirable in its own right. Natori featured intricate cutwork details on crimson coats, as well as on a decorative kerchief and its matching belt, which you could only imagine someone like Ulyana Sergeenko wearing. While the lineup could've stood to lose a few looks (not to mention those distracting neck accessories), it suggested that Natori means business when it comes to developing her ready-to-wear vision.
4 February 2014
Josie Natori outlined her mission this season as "celebrating the woman in a very modern way." To get there, Natori backtracked to 1930's Hollywood, an era she admires for its empowered screen sirens and strong, sensual silhouettes. "Every woman is an icon," the designer said, explaining that she wanted to create "power dressing" pieces that were still feminine. The result was an appealingly soft yet structured group of daytime separates in Italian jacquard that had substance, thanks to their weave, but still gave the impression of floating off the body. Lightness is key for Natori, who is never far from the kimono. Evolved elements of its shape were apparent throughout, from the loose bows that tied cotton shirting at the waist to the capacious nature of most of the collection's sleeves. The silhouette stayed simple and organic through evening, but a blurred, rainbow-bright check print gave a somewhat unpleasant jolt; a series of sheer tops in sherbet hues paired with crisp pastel pants were a better use of brights. Old Hollywood elegance was fully restored by the simplest looks—the unstructured, uncluttered gowns that closed the show. Sometimes the best way to celebrate a woman is to let her speak for herself.
3 September 2013
Her business may be rooted in "softwear," as she likes to call it, but lingerie doyenne Josie Natori wanted to do something for Resort that was more structured and crisp. So she took the classic white shirt and gave it the Natori treatment: a draped collar here, a sleeve embroidered with graphic black lace or encrusted with chunky jewels there. "Who doesn't like a white shirt?" she asked. A subtle Asian influence was at work, evident in the voluminous origami folds on the shoulders of a citron-colored ponte dress, as well as on a kimono-style jacket in a black-and-white honeycomb pattern. The same print was repeated throughout the collection, almost as a neutral. It looked great on a pair of pants. "It all starts with the fabric," Natori said.
6 June 2013
Did someone press play onIn the Mood for Love? Following stylistic jaunts to the Philippines and Mongolia, Josie Natori alighted on the latest destination in her globetrotting design itinerary: Shanghai and Paris in the 1930s. It was chinoiserie with all the original glamour attached to the term, and none of the accrued kitsch.Natori expressed her theme through lavish embellishments and surface treatments. Pale gold-embroidered dragons traversed trouser legs and evening gowns. A textured, dragon-patterned jacquard based on the design of an imperial robe formed a kimonolike coat and pencil skirt. Lacquered cabinetry from the era yielded steamy floral prints, and the formal tradition behind jade carvings infused the stiff obi belts cinched over cowl-necked dresses.The collection stopped short of cheongsams, but only just. If chinoiserie was more literally treated than past themes, it's because it's "so much what the yin and yang of Natori is—strong, sexy, powerful," Natori said. But the treatment and styling gave it real modern gloss—right down to the models' marcel-waved hair.
12 February 2013
Maybe it's because she just got back from the Philippines (one of her monthly trips), but Josie Natori decided to carry her Resort inspiration into Spring. From head to toe every aspect of the collection riffed on the designer's home country. The models wore colorful orchids in their hair because that was Natori's favorite flower growing up, and the shoes, which Natori was designing for the first time this season, were modeled on the wooden clogs calledbakyathat are worn in the fields. The clothes were an equally true testament to the tropical islands. Lightweight, linenlike blouses in silk and pina, a fabric derived from pineapples, were paired with wide-leg trousers. Some of the pants were embellished with sequins; others were digitally printed with bright colors and tribal patterns. A new element for Natori was pattern play. She mixed the orange and lime green lattice design on a modern sarong with that of a floral wrap shirt, and topped it off with a leather bolero. All of the colors were pleasant, but the pieces with the most appeal were stark white—a cotton shirt with embroidered appliqués and a laser-cut A-line skirt—both of which were handmade in the Philippines.
9 September 2012
Having returned from the Philippines just last week (her tenth trip this year), Josie Natori couldn't help but use the "happy colors" and memories of the country's island sunsets as inspiration. "There is such creativity there," the designer said. "After 35 years in the business, I thought it was appropriate to finally incorporate it in my work." The bold colors of the region's straw mats, which are often used for sleeping, lent themselves well to Natori's collection. Most memorable were a pair of bright fuchsia ankle-crop cigarette pants and a cyan blue kimono dress with a cinched waist. Interspersed among the solid separates were a few eye-catching prints, designed with the "psychedelic" Philippine jeepneys in mind. A popular mode of public transportation that originated after World War II, the long buslike jeeps were decorated to show off the drivers' personalities and, of course, garner the attention of people on the street. We bet Natori's take—a silk wrap dress with a crisscrossed top and fluid skirt—will do exactly the same thing for her customer.
5 June 2012
Josie Natori insists that her three-season-old ready-to-wear line has the "same DNA" as her signature lingerie collection, which marks its 35th anniversary this year. But beyond the embroidery and lace, the designer's contemporary clothing proves to be a richer, more exotic beast. Leaving behind last season's Indochine inspiration, Natori chose this time to focus on the colors and terrain of the Mongolian desert. The verdict? Traveling north was a good choice.The looks at today's presentation, which were styled by Annabel Tollman, offered something meatier and more textured than the jersey gowns and simple jackets from Spring. Kimono-style wrap dresses and sequined maxi skirts were paired with imperial red clutches; high-heel boots with embroidered lace appliqué matched cocoon coats with the same detailing. For a more structured look, belted tops constructed of perforated leather were tucked into jacquard skirts. Natori also expanded upon her jewelry, this time using semiprecious stones such as amethyst and smoked quartz to make necklaces that did double duty as belts. The best look? The finale's long black gown with a sheer, beaded back that was sexy, sophisticated, and a far cry from a set of lace underwear.
13 February 2012
Josie Natori has 35 years in the lingerie business, so if she's in no rush to push into clothing, you can chalk it up to her veteran instincts. After two years building out her contemporary line, she was ready to present the collection for the first time at the Asia Society. "I'm always in that East-West mood," the designer said. "I was thinking Indochine and all its colors. I've been to Vietnam a couple of times, and I've always liked the aesthetic there. Something about the mix of the French influence—it's sexy."Natori prefers a covered-up kind of sexual intrigue. She was deft with matte jerseys and draped them into floor-sweeping dresses in key lime and burnt orange. No cleavage (that's presumably for her namesake bra line), but you could discern the curves. Women who prefer a bit more structure could find tailored pieces, including a polished, light russet raffia mandarin-collar jacket and matching full, pleated skirt. Some of the dresses, especially in taupe, needed more work as they veered too close to fancy spawear, but they were generally approachable. And unlike at many of the frippery-laden contemporary labels, these designs were aiming for an older audience—a welcome change.
13 September 2011