Holzweiler (Q1740)
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Norwegian clothing brand
- Holz
- Holzweile skjerf
- Skappel Holzweiler
- Holzweiler (brand)
- HOLZWEILER ITEMS AS
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Holzweiler |
Norwegian clothing brand |
|
Statements
It’s homecoming season at Holzweiler. After putting on two shows in London, the team headed back to Norway—not to Oslo, where they are headquartered, but way, way up north to the island of Krøttøya where the lookbook was photographed. A former military base, this tiny 1.3-square-kilometer rocky area, which is accessed by boat, is now inhabited mostly by fishermen in painted wooden houses, the interiors of which were a starting point for some of the lace, hand crochet, and florals in the collection. Yet the vibe is fresh. Said Maria Skappel: “we wanted to bring the energy of two young people coming to this island, maybe visiting their childhood home or their grandparents… [and] exploring the memories of the past from these people that live there.” The lived-in aesthetic felt just right, too.Keeping things up-to-date were delightful details such as long shorts, sun-faded khakis with curved seams, patchworked fishermen sweaters with a new cursive logo, and the perfect plaid shirt. The sporty sunglasses are an IYKYK touch; they’re very “much a Norwegian thing,” said Skappel. And while they are trending now in Oslo, “in general, people always dress very sporty.” And they usually layer, and not just for styling. The weather is variable and people spend lots of time outside. Note the thin sweaters to wear one-on-top-of-the-other and the intarsia pull-overs which are effectively postcards of Krøttøya’s naturescape.Recalibration is a concept that came up during the spring season, and you really get the sense that Holzweiler has returned to center with this collection. Though titled Memories, it can serve as a blueprint for the future. The strength of this brand is in being authentic to its Norwegian roots, building on knitwear (a national patrimony) and translating the functional and outdoorsy element of the local wardrobe into fashion that can work anywhere in the world.Globalization can make the world feel flat, but local flavor gives fashion a sense of dimensionality. Plus, Holzweiler is an upbeat, grounded brand. “At this time, it’s either you have to go full into the political side…or you have to take the other angle and try to communicate something a bit more positive… and just focus within and try to find what really matters to you,” said Skappel. “That’s the angle we took on this collection; it’s [tied] to memories and also belonging, as in, ‘This is Norway, this is our culture.’ ” Spring’s offering feels like a warm welcome.
17 October 2024
Tate Britain provided a majestic backdrop for Oslo-based Holzweiler’s fall show today, its second in London. Contrasting with the neoclassical backdrop, the latest collection drew inspiration from the enigmatic worlds of mycelium and fungi. “When Susanne [Holzweiler, cofounder] visited the museum and saw artist Anya Gallaccio’s beautiful floral installations, known asPreserve Beauty,with their theme of decay, she knew it was the perfect venue for our show,” explained creative director Maria Skappel Holzweiler at a preview.It soon became evident that fungi motifs permeated not only the silhouettes but also the prints, colors, and textures of the collection. Take the opening look, a lavender cotton maxidress accentuated at the waist with a butter yellow mesh tube that was topped with a mint-hued puffer worn upside down to evoke the shape of a chanterelle mushroom. Another ensemble (mesh tube dress layered over a shirt and trousers) featured a psychedelic swirly print that evoked the explosion of spores from delicate puffball mushrooms when touched. It was accessorized with an oversized scarf in a pattern that echoed the intricate pattern of mycelium. Souped-up puffer jackets, some floor grazing, came with ultra-voluminous button mushroom–like roundness. There were less literal interpretations on the theme, too, such as knitted denim skirt suits and gauze-knit trouser-and-cardigan sets, along with pristine suede zip-up jackets and crocheted off-the-shoulder sweaterdresses.The intention with the menswear collection—which serves as the “sibling to the womenswear, yet embodies its own separate lifestyle,” as Maria explained—was to focus on the forager rather than the mushroom itself. Earth-toned suits in shades of chestnut, chocolate, and umber were finished with boxy shoulders and relaxed-fit pants (albeit slimmer than previous seasons). Shaggy bouclé cardigans resembled the texture of lion’s mane mushrooms, while weathered leather and canvas bombers showcased cargo pockets, perhaps suited for mushroom picking. All in all, the collection leaned toward a darker, muddier aesthetic while staying true to Holzweiler’s utilitarian universe.
18 February 2024
Holzweiler has embarked on a path toward global expansion. The brand, which originated in Oslo in 2012 and has consistently shown in Copenhagen since 2019, secured a majority stake investment from Sequoia Capital China last year, enabling it to extend its international reach. Today, the Norwegian label, which was founded and is still run by the Holzweiler family, made its way to London to present its spring collection. “We want to get even closer to the global markets,” creative director Maria Skappel Holzweiler said in a preview. “We have an office in London, and a lot of our team are here—plus we are opening a store here, so it felt right to bring the collection this season.”The spectacle unfolded at Camley Street Natural Park, a serene nature reserve in St. Pancras. Despite the light rain, it provided a welcome respite from the city’s hectic pace, which we’ve all experienced rushing between shows. Guests settled into rustic wood benches, and the presentation commenced with model Adwoa Aboah wearing a top crafted from repurposed sheer scarves, paired with baggy jeans.Botanical prints took center stage in the form of diaphanous lace-up tops, skirts, and dresses. In addition to the transparent elements, the collection included layers of chiffon, crochet, and Tencel fashioned into both mini- and maxidresses, some featuring eye-catching hip cutouts. Floral motifs adorned mesh fabric, forming unique tops. Knit bralettes with waist-tie straps were a refreshing contrast to miniskirt suits and halter-neck scarf tops.Men’s pieces were also woven into the collection. These included an array of knitted sweaters and Bermuda shorts as well as relaxed two-piece linen suits. Elsewhere, embroidered camp-collar shirts and oversized nylon jackets added depth to the menswear offering. “We always see our brand as having a brother and sister aspect—the men’s and women’s pieces aren’t matching but harmonize,” said Maria. For its inaugural London show, Holzweiler asserted its outdoorsy Nordic design sensibilities with confidence.
17 September 2023
Last year Holzweiler received major funding from Sequoia Capital China, and some wondered if the investment would lead to aesthetic changes at the Norwegian label. The answer, it turns out, is no. Rather, the fall collection represented a return to roots. “We have really been diving deep within ourselves,” noted Maria Skappel Holzweiler.During the pandemic, the brand experimented with one-offs, some made using intricate macramé. For fall, the focus reverted back to the pillars on which the brand is based. The famous Holzweiler scarves were back, as was a focus on outerwear along with knits, denim, and tailoring. The attention paid to viable dress-up pieces was new and welcome. These were the looks that most conveyed the mermaid-core aspects of the collection, which was inspired by a visit to the Blue Planet, the National Aquarium of Denmark. Working with stylist Fran Burns, the team refined the idea and added narrative elements to better relate the theme. Models walking around the set’s two “coral reefs” carried bags that trailed seaweed-like streamers. Similar appendages appeared on slip-on sleeves that added drama to a simple slip, say. A fluid yellow chiffon dress fluctuated like the tide, while suits and tailored coats were more grounded, and voluminous puffers had a sort of sea-foam lightness.Holzweiler’s clothes aren’t conceptual, they are desirable and just different enough to make you look twice. The hybrid cargo/ski-pants had a generous almost rave-like boot-cut, and sweaters and outerwear looked good but also warm, a practicality seen in many Nordic collections, where function and escapism often coexist. “In Norway, the autumns are so dark and everything is in earth tones and all these things,” said the designer after the show. “But when you go on a deep dive, it’s always colorful, it’s always fresh and positive, and you have this really bubbling feeling.” This collection found her exploring the open waters within the reach of the brand’s shore.
2 February 2023
Holzweiler’s spring collection was titled In Motion, which the company clearly is. Earlier this week it was announced that Sequoia Capital China (which has also invested in Ami and Ssense) has secured a majority stake in the Oslo-based Norwegian brand. On the heels of this news the team delivered an uplifting and notably cohesive collection.In Flight might have been an alternative title; fanciful hot air balloons were suspended over the catwalk and many looks were made using upcycled parachutes (Raeburn used them as well this season). The material inspired looks with drawstring gathers, as well as fringed crocheted harnesses. Adding to the airiness of the lineup were cable-knit sweaters, cutouts, and mesh. The pretty white openwork dress with fringe, made from a tablecloth, was a one-off.During the pandemic the Holzweiler team started making one-one-of-a-kinds to show alongside the main collection (see spring 2022); that’s something that they are continuing to do. “There are so many [of these] pieces that can actually be added to the collection, so if the feedback is great, then we can [put] these into smaller production,” explained designer Maria Skappel Holzweiler after the show, adding that Sequoia is “focusing on all these more directional pieces.” Directional in this context means upcycled and/or hand-crafted.One of the highlights of the show was a slip dress, worn over floaty chiffon pant extensions that featured the same blurry warp-print, which was another way in which the In Motion theme was expressed.
10 August 2022
For fall, Holweizer wanted to talk about the weather. They did so through a short road-trip film shot in a wintery Norwegian landscape. This was a nice way to highlight performance outerwear pieces like puffer jackets; the lookbook is necessary to get a real feel of the collection as the film was more about a mood.This season’s lineup is concerned both with dressing for the weather, and the decaying effects of the elements; hence the title Weathering. Peeling paint, slashed denim, and distressing are some of the effects used to create the effect of patina, a concept that speaks to time and the old/new binary. One way that fashion designers are addressing the harmful environmental impact of fashion is by revaluing existing materials, finding beauty in imperfection, and opportunity in repurposing. The showpieces here were constructed using Holzweiler’s own deadstock materials and archival garments; these will be available to rent. The production pieces are mostly wardrobe staples—jeans, a good suit, a waxed jacket—which are enlivened with signature touches, like knit pants (in gingham for fall), and the brand’s famous (and truly warming) scarves.
4 February 2022
Sometimes the only way to get through something is with a little help from your friends. That’s just what Holzweiler designers Maria Skappel Holzweiler and Duy Dinh Ngo did when creating their spring collection. Unable to go out into the world to collect inspiration, they gave and received it, both via digital and snail mail channels.Holzweiler and Ngo, optimistic as ever, believe that we can find a way forward together; they titled their collection “In Transit.” Preparedness is key for any journey, and the designers have taken variable weather into consideration, offering a wide array of waterproof rain gear, including coats, hats, and boots made in collaboration with Viking. For those looking for comfort in the familiar, signature Holzweiler space-dyed knits make an appearance.Travel, real or imaginary, paves the way for discovery, and there are many new things in the spring collection, like sunglasses and special one-off pieces. “During this pandemic we feel like we have had more time to go back to being creative,” says Holzweiler. The jewelry is all handcrafted by the design team, and the entire company of almost 100 people was involved in the creation of the intricate crochet pieces. “Everyone was asked if they could crochet a small piece of handcraft during the summer holidays. When we got home from the vacation, we stitched everything together,” explains Holzweiler.Just as the designers created a community in their offices, they wanted to do the same for their lookbook and film. The cast of models is local and were invited to express their individuality. “We are heading in a different direction,” says Holzweiler. “And we really hope that our customers will take our garments and style them in their own way; and that we can contribute with some personality within the clothes.”And they do. Spring’s collection isn’t very extroverted, but that’s a strength, not a weakness. There are lots of ways to style and layer the individual garments, and, as the lookbook demonstrates, plenty of ways to make these clothes your own.
12 August 2021
There’s a groundswell of creative energy in Oslo and Holzweiler exported some of that to Copenhagen for fall. Its collection was inspired by the sculpture-bridge-gallery that is The Twist, an architectural marvel designed by the Bjarke Ingels Group less than 50 miles outside of Oslo. Designers Maria Skappel Holzweiler and Duy Dinh Ngo extrapolated concepts, patterns, and prints from the building. They were intrigued by the idea of bridging differences and the possibility of “turning something on its head” that is inherent in the idea of a twisting motion.“The world is changing and so must we,” reads a slogan in the brand’s press kit. The designers use of a glitch print reflects that this is necessarily a work in progress. Holzweiler itself is in growth mode and this collection included sophisticated fabrications, like a custom Italian jacquard and artistic intarsia knits mixed in with the sportier elements the line is known for. Keeping those proportions balanced seems important going forward as it is the outdoors aspect that feels most authentic.Standouts included big scarves, a shearling miniskirt, waterproof rubber boots made with Viking, and outerwear that will segue seamlessly from country to city street. Spending time in nature is the Norwegian way of life, and the designers have translated this ethos into a fashionable signature. In the form of a reflective down jacket, they even found a way of exporting the northern lights.
4 February 2021
Holzweiler caters to outdoorsy types. Even if you’re not a nature lover, the designs make you want to venture into the wild. With their coats and jackets on your back, at least you’d look stylish while roughing it. Since launching in 2012 with straightforward scarves and outerwear, Suzanne and Andreas Holzweiler and Maria Skappel Holzweiler have positioned themselves as a sporty, athleisure-y label. But lately, the brand has morphed into something more dynamic. It still targets those who appreciate the great outdoors, but now its target demographic seems to be fashionable urban dwellers. This season they continued to refine their newly pared-back aesthetic, presenting sophisticated ready-to-wear alongside the technical, practical stuff.The collection was inspired by the natural landscape of Norway and country living there. Highlights included an ultra-cropped cable-knit turtleneck layered over a double-breasted suit, and a cool, creamy yellow stretch pleat top and matching pants. Camel and black wool coats with contrast lace-up stitching on the sleeve and at the waist were strong too. All of the clothes, styled together or separately, looked like they could be worn in the city or the country, a seamless effect that the Holzweiler family hasn’t always gotten right. After some trial and error, they’re now charging down the right path.
29 January 2020
As far as the Copenhagen fashion scene is concerned at the moment, there’s no such thing as toning it down. The city’s marquee brands, the local influencers, and the newer design darlings are all about pop: dramatic silhouettes, vibrant prints, candy-colored fur and leather. But not Holzweiler. This sport-inspired label, helmed by Suzanne and Andreas Holzweiler and Maria Skappel Holzweiler, has, for the last couple of seasons, been intentionally focused on making things lighter.The Holzweiler team favors cleaner lines and a more utilitarian outlook, a vision that falls into line with traditional notions of minimalist Scandinavian style. At their show this afternoon, the designers once again handed out cell phone holders in an effort to get their guests to shut off for a few minutes. It didn’t really work last season, and that was the case this season too, but the sentiment was certainly admirable and definitely helped hype up the fresh, stripped-away vibes.The most serenity-inducing looks included a khaki shirtdress styled under a well-tailored white trench and a gigantic knit crossbody sack. The floppy, knit hats were standouts in the accessories category, as were a pair of chunky ivory-colored rain boots. The Holzweilers’ use of custard yellow for shirting and knitwear was a fine choice as a warm, approachable color this season. The suiting was a real highlight as well, not only for the comfortable tailoring but also for the fact that the jackets and trousers added a sophisticated note to what was mostly an athletic or outdoorsy-focused aesthetic. The Holzweiler designers would be smart to continue to design more of these chic separates, things that are more appealing to the everyday man or woman than, say, a pair of striped biker shorts. This season proved that even if they’re progressing with a softer sensibility, in a town where standing out is currently in, sometimes you can win with a gentler approach.
8 August 2019
At first, it was as if a dark cloud came over the Holzweiler show. Placed on each front row seat was a small pouch and a note that read: “We kindly ask you to put your phone to sleep and enjoy our show. And don’t worry, we will make sure to provide everyone with images right after the show.” Holzweiler employees made the rounds just ahead of showtime to be sure everyone followed the orders.Oh, the horror!Looking around the room, there was reason to believe that more than a few influencers, It girls, and VIPs were thinking just that. Some of them looked confused, disappointed, and awkward, even, as the Fall 2019 collection started charging down the runway. But then, everyone relaxed. All eyes were actually focused on the clothes and not intermittently on their iPhone screens. It was a fantastic thing to witness. For once in our millennial, fashion-show-going lives, we were forced to focus solely on the garments themselves.And they were garments that deserved our attention, too. The creative team behind Holzweiler, which is formed by Susanne and Andreas Holzweiler and Maria Skappel Holzweiler, really seemed to focus on styling the clothes in a way that felt more everyday than editorialized this time around—fewer fanny packs with anoraks and bucket hats than last season and more smartly layered knits in varying textures and patterns. Thick, brightly colored scarves were among the only accessories paired with cool knit trousers and tops, checked skirts with asymmetrical hems, and well tailored cargo pants. Even the outerwear felt lighter, especially the ski suit made with semitransparent fabric and the tan overcoat with red lining and drawstrings at the waist. As a whole, Holzweiler took a subtle step back with this collection and pared down their aesthetic just a bit, and the no-phones rule played into that new strategy. We all unplugged for a minute today, and seemingly Holzweiler is trying to do the same.
30 January 2019
It’s been uncomfortably warm in Copenhagen this week. In fact, it’s been uncomfortably warm here for a few weeks, just as it’s been all over Europe. Today, sitting in a tented greenhouse waiting for Holzweiler’s Spring 2019 show to start, you could practically see the mercury rise. The clothes that came down the runway included anoraks layered underneath bomber jackets and worn with cargo trousers, as well as long skirts and heavy knits accessorized with hiking boots and big beekeeper hats. These were not clothes for a summer scorcher, save for a few bright orange swimsuit looks.The lineup made total sense, though, considering that Holzweiler began more or less as an outerwear brand. Overseen by Oslo-based trio Susanne and Andreas Holzweiler (sibling founders) and Maria Skappel Holzweiler (creative director), the business launched in 2012 with a bold collection of scarves and moved into ready-to-wear in 2014 with a focus on coats, jackets, and knitwear. Today, the Holzweiler threesome is making strides expanding the label’s design repertoire and reaching audiences outside of Norway and Copenhagen, where they show each season. This collection was of particular note for how well-balanced and clean it was—devoid of any logo or signage or slogans, which the Holzweiler team has been known to utilize in the past. Standouts included a simple and beautiful mustard yellow silk dress and a baby blue knit turtleneck top and pencil skirt.The trenchcoats and anoraks looked great, too. But there’s a lot of, well, heat coming off Copenhagen’s other contemporary brands. The Holzweiler designers should continue to build on their ready-to-wear and experiment with different shapes, cuts, and fits, and do so without losing sight of the minimalist edge they put forward on the runway today. That’s how they’ll be able to compete.
8 August 2018