Escada SE (Q1772)
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German clothing company
- Escada
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Escada SE |
German clothing company |
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Statements
Escada could not host a presentation this season due to the coronavirus pandemic. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection via photos and remote interviews.One of the most prevalent themes to emerge from weeks of Zoom appointments for the resort 2021 season is the importance of clothing that can stand the test of time. It makes sense: Right now time feels at a standstill; no plans to make, offices to dress for, or events to inspire an evening of glamour. For the moment at least, luxury fashion has to be grounded in a want-now, wear-later model. Escada’s Emma Cook has handled this with a clever mash-up of time itself. The brand known for ’80s excess is modernizing by playing up its Reagan-era fabulosity while simultaneously paring back and simplifying silhouettes and fabrics. “It’s a tiny bit gauche and a little bit over the top, but in a cool way,” Cook offers. “Still sexy, but sexy for a still cool older woman.”Appealing to a customer with memories of Escada’s peak-shouldered pantsuits is wise. The brand’s tailoring still has a strong customer base; now it comes in soft colors like cream and cornflower blue. Soigné day-to-night dresses in Julie Verhoeven–illustrated prints and stamped leather car coats flesh out the serene offering here, smartly clashed with one metallic gold mini suit and a bralette dripping in black pearls.Because of lockdowns in London, where Cook and her atelier are based, she found herself making do and mending—literally. “I got the machine out and was sewing myself for the first time in a while,” she says. The result is clothing with “more love and attention” paid to its craft and its purpose. A highlight of Cook’s experimentation is a white jersey maxidress covered in tiny mirrors. In the look book it almost looks like broderie anglaise, but in real life, it shines with the wattage of a thousand suns. “Still pretty light,” she offers of the dress’s weight. But heavy impact. “If you make it loud it has to be easy,” she continues. Sounds like a pretty timeless idea for a heritage brand.
26 June 2020
“It’s not an ’80s period drama,” Emma Cook says flatly in Escada’s New York showroom. The Brit designer took the reins at Escada six months ago, tasked with reimagining the brand founded by Margaretha Ley and famous for its big-shouldered, flippant ’80s frocks. Cook’s sharp turn away from that era of excess is wise—the market for frilly little things is already booming thanks to influencer-led-and-loved brands. Instead of a greatest-hits revival, Cook has turned her eye to a more modern ease. Tailoring, sportswear, and work-appropriate clothing makes up much of her offering for fall 2020, in sedate tones like fir, camel, and burgundy.What Cook hopes sets her new Escada apart from other high-minded sportswear brands is her focus on special details. Each of the golden buttons seen in the collection was custom made and hand-selected for its specific placement on a double-lapel blazer or the side slit of a pleated silk skirt. A grass green pleated dress hangs from a custom gold choker, and a shearling coat spells outE-S-C-A-D-Aacross its fastenings. These are clever touches, but they won’t resonate with shoppers until Escada’s reputation is reestablished as a go-to for savvily posh ready-to-wear. A sleek belted puffer will help it get there, as will Cook’s new longline suits with groovy flares.
3 February 2020
Its 40th-anniversary celebrations in New York last season behind it, Escada did a series of mini-shows in Paris today more fitting of its place in the fashion sphere. Escada has historical capital, but it doesn’t have much in the way of current relevance. Design director Niall Sloan’s job is to reverse that equation, or to at least bring it closer to equilibrium. Recalibrating the presentation was a start. Adjusting the aesthetic is the harder job.Sloan picked a heck of a backstory. Having watchedBombshell: The Hedy Lamarr Story, he was riveted, not just by the Austrian actress’s beauty, but also by her ingenuity. She was an inventor on the side, and developed a radio guidance system for Allied torpedoes; though it was discounted by the Navy until the 1960s, decades later it would go on to inform the development of Bluetooth technology and Wi-Fi. Lemarr was beauty and brains personified—and irresistible to a designer with both glamour and power dressing on his mind.The actress’s scandalous 1933 filmEcstasybecame a graphic on a white midi skirt and sweatshirt, and her escape from her controlling husband, as recounted in her autobiography, informed the inside-out clothing embroidered with crystals. (Apparently Lemarr split wearing maid’s clothes, her jewels sewn into the lining of her garments.) Elsewhere, Wi-Fi symbols decorated intarsia knit scarves. Like we said, quite the backstory. In the end, though, theEcstasygraphics were outliers. On the whole, this collection was subtler and more sophisticated than last season—an improved second act.
27 February 2019
Escada, the label Margaretha and Wolfgang Ley founded in Munich, Germany, in 1978 that is now owned by Indian businesswoman Megha Mittal, has been a very quiet presence at New York Fashion Week the past few years, holding showroom appointments in which a single model tried on clothes. Recently, it’s safe to say, it’s been a brand talked about almost strictly in the past tense. In its ’80s heyday, Escada wardrobed the new corporate power woman (Margaretha being a prime example of the species), and the house hallmarks were shoulder pads, brass buttons, and vibrant colors.With a 40th anniversary to celebrate, Mittal and her CEO, Iris Epple-Righi, are determined to bring Escada back into the present tense. They booked the Park Avenue Armory; hired Stefan Beckman to design a set; and enlisted name-in-lights, behind-the-scenes talents including stylist Jacob K, makeup artist Pat McGrath, hairstylist Guido Palau, and music man Frédéric Sanchez. Today’s show was about as splashy as debuts get, and it was a coming-out party, to boot, for Escada’s new creative director, Niall Sloan.Sloan hails from Burberry and Hunter Boots, and he has been at Escada long enough to launch just one collection before this. So his task was at least twofold: to ignite excitement about a company with not much in the way of 2018 currency and to prove he’s got the chops for a stage as big as the one Beckman constructed in the armory. Not easy. Not least of all because of starting points. The Leys named their nascent label Escada after an energetic thoroughbred, hence the quite first-degree horse jockey color-blocking here. Sloan also looked to a pair of iconic films,Working GirlandPretty Woman, from 1988 and 1990, respectively, and that didn’t do much to modernize the sensibility. Julia Roberts’s khaki polka dot dress fared best in translation.The impulse to look backward to the label’s origin story and days in the sun is natural enough—after all, there’s been much talk about the ’80s and ’90s, and big names, from Versace to Prada, are embracing brand nostalgia. But there’s no arguing that today’s power women are dressing differently than they did three decades ago. As Sloan recalibrates for next season, he should pick a few contemporary muses.
9 September 2018
Niall Sloan, Escada’s new global design director, has been revamping the Munich-based label since he joined the team last June. Previously, he was the global design director at Hunter, and before that he had been at Burberry for 10 years, where he worked alongside Christopher Bailey. Sloan’s luxury background and his knack for sharp tailoring were evident in this collection, especially when it came to power suiting, a category for which Escada became well-known in the late ’80s and ’90s. Here, Sloan whipped up a verdant leather skirtsuit, with green, white, and black stripes designed to appear as if one were looking through a picket fence. (The pattern had the effect of nicely cinching in the waist.) Stripes reappeared on daywear pieces, including a top with gold Lurex ribbing and a pair of slightly flared trousers. One standout was a checked royal blue pantsuit with gold buttons dotting the pockets.The Escada logo, which could be a drawing point for the label, especially for young customers looking to infuse a bit of yesteryear into their wardrobes, received a makeover. It appeared a bit try-hard when it was rendered in sequins on green and gray knits, though it was smartly done on a structured navy coat with Escada stamped on the bottom. That little detail made for a nice wild-card touch in an otherwise classic piece.
16 May 2018
Niall Sloan—a graduate of menswear at Burberry, where he spent 10 years working alongside Christopher Bailey, and of Hunter, where he last held the position of design director—joined the Escada team as the new global design director six months ago. It’s a welcome revamp. Sloan has taken great measure to cite and refresh the archives of the Munich-based company, all the way down to the smallest details. (He has spent lots of time sifting through boxes of the label’s signature gold buttons.) After all, why not look to the past? Escada has a rich one. Its founder, Margaretha Ley, designed to appeal to a high-flying, diverse group of women and created mean bold-shouldered power suits in a range of colors. “What we want to do is reconnect with the heyday of Escada, meaning the ’80s and the ’90s,” said Sloan. “And that is perfect with the trends that we are in right now.” The timing is truly right. Archival pieces and full-blown archival collections (see: Versace Spring 2018) have been looking back as they move forward. One important aspect of yesteryear is logomania. People (this writer included) trawl Etsy and eBay for logo-centric items, and there are some great ones from Escada in the mix. Sloan understands this is what younger women are looking for these days and he dedicated plenty of time to bringing that visual back.On the simpler end, Sloan stamped outEscadain glitzy bricolage on a gray T-shirt. (Escada is well known for its embellishments.) A long cashmere cardigan with Warholian letters spellingEscadacould be worn as a dress by younger customers. As a bonus, there was a stellar black zip-up pullover from the Escada Sport collection emblazoned with none other thanEscada Sport. Sure, the idea of a logo is all fun and games and not as serious a facet of the label as, say, tailoring, but it is an important attention-getter that will help Escada pop up once again on people’s radar in a cool, hit-you-over-the-head type of way.But back to tailoring, where Escada shines in terms of sophistication and skill. Sloan kept a sharp silhouette in suits, liberally using gold buttons throughout. An eggshell blue power suit fastened with a single gold button cut a slick figure, as did a double-breasted nipped-at-the-waist coat. Sloan is also about giving women choices: A gray skirt had gold buttons skating down the side from waist to hem. (Sloan noted that they weren’t just for show; the wearer could unbutton them to reveal as much skin as she wanted.
) There were some classics that veered almost too literal—like a plucked-from-the-’90s brocade floral fit-and-flare dress, complete with a matching jacket—while other pieces seamlessly fit into 2018, such as a belted pantsuit jacket that boasted sharp military shoulders. History repeats itself, and in this case, with a little refinement, it’s a great thing and something that Escada is artfully celebrating.
20 February 2018
Escada has long championed power suiting. So, it’s fitting that this season’s inspiration came from the photographer Peter Lindbergh, who often shot Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, and Tatjana Patitz, supermodels who represented the power woman look of the late ’80s and early ’90s. In the Pre-Fall collection presented today, a hot pink pantsuit styled sans shirt and another suit boasting a colorful print based on Turkish Iznik pottery both had a glamazonian appeal.The label has been delving into the archives, repurposing its logo, and printing it on the front of T-shirts and down the side stripes of track pants. That’s a good idea: Young customers at the moment love to trawl Etsy for throwback logos. Other pieces seemingly from yesteryear, such as a skirtsuit with bows trailing down the placket, seemed a bit stuffy, if classic. Casual tops, like a nubby tank rendered in the Iznik print and a black lace polo looked good.Escada has hired Niall Sloan as the label’s global design director. Sloan was formerly at Hunter and in the past worked at Burberry under Christopher Bailey. His first collection with the label will be Fall 2018; let’s see how he reimagines Escada’s past for the present.
14 November 2017
Escada has always focused on selling to the professional woman, meaning that their customer target is typically high-flying, corporate ladder–climbing, and, of course, polished. With those qualities in mind, there will always be the boardroom-ready pieces that the label has long been based on, now typically with a youthful makeover. Take the label’s pantsuits this season: Those impeccably tailored sets came in can’t-miss-it colors, like fresh mint or head-turning vermillion complete with a mandarin-collared blazer. For the more casual-minded customers, the label reworked the ubiquitous varsity stripe into a pair of cream trousers creating a kicky track pant. Escada typically works best when it is simple, keeping a focus in tailoring: The embellished zip-up jackets, in burgundy and camel, seemed a bit busy and out of place.To appeal to a younger generation, the label should bring out more from their archive. One standout was an embellished incarnation of a nautical striped shirt that the label’s go-to model Tatjana Patitz once wore in 1992. (You can find the original image of Patitz sporting the blouse onGoogle images.) Escada could also do something with its logo. People are currently logomania-obsessed, whether it is with house monograms or a simple brand name across the chest. Not pictured in this lookbook was a cool T-shirt that simply read, “Escada by Margaretha Ley.” Pair that easygoing T-shirt with a sharp blazer and it’s a sure way to attract a new range of cool customers.
19 July 2017
It’s Escada’s second season without a fashion director, but the design team seems to be headed in a positive direction under the guidance of its CEO, Iris Epple-Righi, a former Calvin Klein executive who was hired by the brand last April. The collection, an apparent nod to Isabella Rossellini and her knack for pulling off both feminine and masculine styles, was more relaxed than in past seasons, a detail that was most evident in the refreshing palette of citrusy hues. Archive pieces like Nordic mohair sweaters came in grapefruit pink and lemon yellow for a punchy effect. A Pepto-pink sweater that gradated from knit virgin wool into mohair was a standout.Of course, with Escada, it’s impossible not to note the pantsuits—they’re the touchstone of the brand. A testament to how well the label executes its tailoring came in the use of patterns: It’s difficult to add a graphic to office attire—it can come off as fussy—but the square-print pants and blazer set was polished. A fun addition was the sleepwear. These days, pajamas are a 24-hour type of look and the literal embodiment of the Escada customer: a woman who is on the go from her home to the office to cocktails—and sometimes to a plane. Light and easy, it won’t take much to evoke a have-it-all appeal in the luxuriously laid-back ensembles.
24 May 2017
This is Escada’s first collection since the brand announced the departure of its longtime fashion director, Daniel Wingate. While a search for his successor is underway, Wingate’s fingerprints are, unsurprisingly, all over the collection. This season, the brand’s design team continued to explore the Hitchcockian femininity cited as inspiration for Pre-Fall 2017. That meant plenty of foldover bateau collars, smart suits, and lots of wool flannel, some with diamond print.All that said, last April Escada hired former Calvin Klein Europe executive Iris Epple-Righi as CEO, and this season she seemed to be exerting some influence on the collection—perhaps particularly so, in the absence of Wingate. The career executive was cited as a reference point for the collection, which infused it with a refreshing dose of reality. Escada has been pushing the working-woman narrative for some time, but thoughtful details this season—such as the roomier silhouettes on cocktail dresses, the zip-away fur lining on a travel-ready parka, or the knitwear instead of silk layered under suits to combat mystifyingly freezing temperatures at the hands of a male-dominated office thermostat—show that it’s really listening to its customer. This collection was less about the idea of a career woman, and more about the not-always-glamorous reality.
7 February 2017
What is it about jumpsuits? Escada’s team reported they’re a top seller every season, and we’ve heard as much from other labels, too. Perhaps it’s because modern women dress so casually in their day-to-day lives, a jumpsuit feels more natural than a ball gown. Plus, when tailored correctly, a jumpsuit is flattering on every body type; just add heels, and you’ve got legs for days.There was a great-looking black and ivory jumpsuit in Escada’s Pre-Fall collection with a nipped-in waist, draped neckline, and hand-embroidered onyx jewels along the edges. It definitely had red carpet potential. Another jumpsuit came in crisp navy with a T-shirt neckline and sexy corset details on the sides. The same lace-up flourish came on a standout ivory jacket, which could be cinched tight to create a sculptural, hourglass silhouette. Next to Escada’s typical shift dresses and looser silhouettes, that felt like a refreshing step forward.Daniel Wingate and his team mined Hitchcock films for feminine-yet-unfussy inspiration. They referenced Kim Novak in Vertigo more than once: A pretty floral print in black, magenta, and ivory was inspired by the flower shop in the movie, and a polished double-breasted coat looked like something Judy might have worn. The rest of the collection was less memorable, consisting mainly of Escada essentials: cashmere sweaters, silk blouses, and office-appropriate dresses in white and a rich shade of aubergine.
7 December 2016
Fashion director Daniel Wingate may have specifically cited Africa as the main inspiration for Spring 2017, translating colors of the souk or safari landscapes into his color palette and patterns, but there was also a retro flair to this collection. The label celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, meaning that the late-’70s silhouettes were most likely not coincidental. The two themes meshed well. Stripes mimicked earthy-hued spices, taking form in loose shift dresses and off-the-shoulder gowns, while a top with the same print was wrapped up like a halter, disco-style. Texture was well thought out; a cardigan woven out of leather had great movement thanks to fringe—and added some elevation when paired with simple boyish shorts and a silk tank.Still, the polished solid pieces (always anEscadastrength) were standouts. The high-waisted trousers with button adornments and a cropped, wide-leg sky blue pair acted as easy closet staples. The coolest look of all was the pantsuit—a signature for the label, and a hot topic of discussion thanks toHillary Clinton, who has a rotating lineup of them. The cut of the optic white blazer was stellar with fitted and polished oversize angular lapels. The most refreshing addition was losing the standard button for a woven black belt, which acted as an adjustable silhouette clincher. The no-fuss, masculine detail made the suit all that much cooler, and still packed a smart executive punch.
7 September 2016
Considering the unofficial slogan of Resort season is “buy now, wear now,” it’s easy to forget that the clothes were once intended to be worn in actual resorts. Now, it isn’t uncommon to find cashmere sweaters and shearling coats in Resort lineups; when the collections drop in November, women are looking to refresh their real-life wardrobes, not their vacation gear. Still, there are some shoppers who do need a capsule of seaside-ready looks for the holidays, and that’s where houses likeEscadacome in.Escada’s Daniel Wingate drew inspiration from David Hockney’s vibrant acrylic paintings of swimming pools for his new collection. The results were mostly straightforward—shades of teal mingled with refreshing pale blue and aquamarine on crepe suits and Bermuda shorts, while a hand-beaded emerald gown had a wet-look shimmer. Elsewhere, Hockney’s influence could be felt in subtler, cleverer details, like the deep ruffles on a knit tank, which mimicked waves, or the rounded “painter sleeves” of a silk blouse, which were inspired by the artist himself. Escada is known for bold color, but several ivory looks were strong (and simple) enough to attract a new, more neutral-inclined customer. A crisp jumpsuit with a black ribbon at the waist was a standout, as was the demure, cream-color clutch coat.
24 May 2016
Perhaps it’s the looming 40th anniversary, butEscadadesigner Daniel Wingate seems to be on a nostalgic bent. The past few seasons have included several styles directly inspired by the house’s archives, and for Fall 2016 Wingate trained his eye even further back, to Escada’s founding principle. Though it bears little resemblance to what we think of as athleisure today, the brand’s original intent, in 1978, was to introduce the concept of “sporty luxury,” which founder Margaretha Ley felt wasn’t being addressed enough.Cashmere trackpants and leather sneakers are fine, but they don’t make sense for the brand. Instead, Wingate subtly hinted at the athletic inspiration with a sporty color palette—primary red, blue, and yellow and bright green—and a sprinkling of archival styles, like a slouchy tennis sweater or logo knit top. Mostly, though, Wingate furthered Ley’s mission by providing versatile pieces that can be worn to a number of occasions—the brand calls it “desk-to-dinner.” Necklines on a fitted jumpsuit or loose blouses could be worn demurely round or pulled down to reveal shoulders; many looks were monochromatic, the idea being that wearing one color requires less thought than worrying about mixing and matching.Standouts included a head-to-toe camel ensemble consisting of a midi skirt and slouchy cardigan with lamb-fur pockets, and a fir green off-the-shoulder blouse paired with high-waisted pants. Though the collection could have benefitted from losing the large, crystal-encrusted belts, the silhouettes were more streamlined and there was less going on than in recent seasons. This was a good thing; it let the luxurious fabrications the brand excels at—camel hair, lamb fur, bonded leather—really shine.
10 February 2016
Escadafashion director Daniel Wingate has a thing for power women; for several seasons now, he’s been pushing a narrative that centers around a jam-packed schedule and gangbusters career, envisioning staples that can take his woman from the boardroom to the ballroom. So it’s no surprise that for Pre-Fall 2016, he turned to a real-life power woman for inspiration: Aleksandra Ekster, a Russian avant-garde painter and designer who made a name for herself in the mostly male-dominated art world in the early 20th century and was a major influencer of the Art Deco movement.Ekster’s work informed the collection's geometric shapes and slightly off-kilter palette (marsala red often contrasted with navy and bright blue). Her influence could most strongly be felt in a color-block shift dress with an asymmetrical hem, and an asymmetrical faux-wrap skirt. These were also some of the strongest pieces in the lineup. Wingate was smart to include a cropped flare in several colors and patterns; the silhouette feels right for the season and will find fans among customers young and old. He focused on styles that wrapped—or gave the appearance of wrapping—lending a sultry vibe to evening and workaday pieces, with the added benefit of versatility. He was also in a festive mood (perhaps the impending holidays did it), since many of the offerings were drowning in sequins. While some of these looks were fun, others, like a bustier jumpsuit, felt far too young for the Escada customer. Overall, they detracted from the busy career-woman narrative. A power woman uses her wit—not sequins—to make an impression.
9 December 2015
ThoughEscadawon’t officially turn 40 until 2018, the Munich-based brand has already started celebrating. For hisSpring 2016offering, fashion directorDaniel Wingatesought to emphasize the history of the label without getting stuck in the past. The piece that perhaps best typified this effort was a silky, tailored blazer inspired by Escada’s scarves from the late ’60s and ’70s, which was paired with smart black trousers: It’s the kind of thing that serves a woman equally well at the office or at a cocktail party.Versatility and comfort were key this season. Looks were styled with flats to emphasize a certain effortlessness to the clothes that will appeal to Escada’s busy career woman: Slouchy trousers, roomy culottes, and oversize tunics popped up in neutrals as well as primary colors like red and yellow (or “limoncello” as the brand calls it). The eveningwear was also carefully considered. A romantic, delicate blush pink cardigan was a thoughtful addition—for the demure or the always-cold—to the matching strapless dress it was styled with.Escada is best when it sticks to simplicity. The floral pantsuit and chain-link belt felt overcomplicated, and the jumpsuit-gown combo, though daring, seemed a little out of place. Still, simple needn’t mean boring: One of the strongest looks consisted of perforated white leather culottes styled with a white shirt that wrapped at the waist.
8 September 2015
Power dressing was the watchword for Escada's Resort outing, and fashion director Daniel Wingate and his team riffed on it in ways to suit every corner of their woman's life. For the boardroom they proposed the nicely icy by way of the '70s—a plissé tie-neck blouse had a certain Dunaway-esque appeal to it when teamed with a smart pair of wide-leg trousers. Harder sells included that same pant in rose crepe with a matching top. A sleeveless trench was fresher. For downtime in Mykonos, the Escada customer can slip into a pair of the brand's crisp dark-wash denim and a silk button-down.In honor of the house's upcoming 40th birthday, Wingate and co. revived some scarf prints from the vault, bringing them to life as vividly hued tops, skirts, and dresses. And for when the sun goes down, the designer proposed evening separates, some of which missed (black satin suiting with a splashy crimson floral print), but some of which stood out, like tops with space-age-y cutouts along the neck, shown with slim trousers. The easy modishness of those looks was a welcome addition to the outing, some of which said Career Woman in such a way as to feel a bit fusty. Let's not forget that there can be plenty of power had in the unassuming, too.
26 May 2015
In January, the German brand Escada hosted its Fall runway show in Munich at the Nymphenburg Palace, a 340-year-old baroque residence. The collection, according to fashion director Daniel Wingate, was designed with the "opulence of Nymphenburg" in mind.While the fabrics—from a four-layer organza to a wool hand-painted with metallic florals—emphasized that idea, Wingate and his team chose to rely on menswear-inspired elements to ground the extravagance. They styled many pieces back to crisp shirting, including a patchwork fur coat made of four different types of lamb, and a long robe coat in a wool cashmere check. The boyish looks were the best: the suiting, the coats, the crystal-cuff-linked button-ups. The formalwear was a toss-up. An off-the-shoulder black-and-white jumpsuit was an effortless take on the tux, and a rose-colored halter neck offered plenty of glamour. But a few of the curved-collar gowns felt too heavy, weighted down by fabric and an overwrought silhouette.The collection was the first shown under new Escada chief executive officer Glenn McMahon, who most recently spent time as CEO of Tamara Mellon and, before that, St. John. It couldn't have been a coincidence that there was more of a true fashion appeal to the way in which this season's clothes were styled and presented, although it was clear that the traditional Escada client's needs would still be met. Not a bad strategy: Let's see where it goes.
20 February 2015
Early 20th-century dancer Isadora Duncan often draped scarves around her body in the way of a Grecian goddess during performances; she died in 1927 when one of those scarves got tangled in the hubcap of her car, breaking her neck. Escada creative director Daniel Wingate was thinking of Duncan's time onstage when designing Pre-Fall, for which the dancer served as muse. "Similar to Isadora's iconic costumes, we explored fabrics with lightness and texture to allow the body to move more freely," he offered. A direct connection between Wingate's shift dresses and Duncan's wardrobe was vague, but no matter. There was a lot here for the Escada customer to love, from the double-face cashmere robe coat paired with red leather jeans to a floral jacquard suit that nodded to chinoiserie. A black bugle-bead-trimmed topper was tied up with a flat, slightly askew grosgrain bow, which made an appearance once again on the neckline of a tuxedo jumpsuit. These pieces certainly had plenty of pizzazz, and were a nice homage to Duncan's spirit.
9 December 2014
Fans of Escada's colorful pantsuits and embroidered gowns remain quite loyal, so it's important to keep them happy. Fashion director Daniel Wingate accomplished that by offering cropped raspberry Taroni silk trousers, metallic leopard-print organza split-neck dresses, and photo-real tropical floral prints on black pencil skirts and tailored blazers. A black knit dress covered in enameled dots made to look like candy buttons, paired with a matching cardigan jacket, was also right up her alley.But what about the new customer, the one who hasn't yet found Escada? Wingate said that the season was a "fashion floriculture—with flowers in all forms, from exotic to romantic." But many of those prints felt too familiar. What worked were the slightly more abstract ideas, such as the yellow petals individually beaded on a matching cropped shell and pencil skirt, or the burnout organza dress in white or lavender. A bias ruffle jumpsuit also offered a certain freshness. It was done in royal purple—a classic Escada shade—which proved modernity and history are not mutually exclusive.
2 September 2014
Being bold is part of the Escada woman's identity. And so, heading into this season fresh off a visit to California's Pacific Coast, fashion director Daniel Wingate wanted to offer his confident customers more than just Resort-standard nautical fare. Upping the ante, he combined stripes with a hand-painted paisley pattern on the standout opener: a rich jacquard blazer shown over matching silk pajama-like separates. Escada has never shied away from a full-on print moment, and a slim suit splashed with an allover "terrazzo" motif (inspired by the tile work of a pool Wingate noticed in Beverly Hills) was another highlight here. Several of the lineup's solid pieces made an equally punchy impact—in particular, a hibiscus-hued double-face cashmere wrap coat paired with cropped turquoise trousers. Elsewhere, Wingate produced a handful of winning evening moments, including a pretty black cocktail dress that featured delicate chiffon appliqués and organza cutout details. As far as red-carpet numbers go, the one-shouldered red column gown with an elegant side cascade should appeal to grand dames (Jessica Lange, Helen Mirren, and Viola Davis have recently worn the label to high-wattage events) who prefer a bit more coverage but still want to be distinctive.
29 May 2014
Escada is having a James Turrell moment. After inspiring the label's Pre-Fall collection, the renowned artist's light installations also informed this season's jewel-toned color palette. The new Fall lineup addressed a current trend in the form of relaxed suits (in either malachite green or graphic windowpane checks) that featured slouchy, cropped trousers and a double-breasted jacket for a bit of flattering definition at the waist. Patterned furs, leather pieces, and a classic camel coat also felt of-the-moment. Elsewhere, design director Daniel Wingate experimented with several newer silhouettes for the brand, such as scalloped lace tea-length skirts. Pretty, painterly winter florals looked relatively fresh on matching silk separates but seemed somewhat stuffy on printed organza cocktail frocks and a strapless evening gown. Speaking of eveningwear, Escada has started putting more emphasis on its red-carpet program, having recently outfitted Edie Falco and Helen Mirren for the Emmys and SAG Awards, respectively. According to a rep, the vibrant, draped duchesse numbers here were created for one of this year's Oscar nominees.
3 February 2014
With three major exhibitions this year, it's no wonder that James Turrell's reverie-inducing LED fixtures have inspired multiple fashion labels, including, most recently, Escada. The famed artist's plays on light and hues were a fitting reference given the brand's history of experimenting with bold color combinations, and the latest lineup featured saturated "skyspace" shades like blue sapphire, pink tourmaline, and purple tanzanite. Those jewel tones were incorporated into such pieces as draped charmeuse tops and matching cigarette pants, as well as a color-blocked fur coat with detachable leather sleeves. Elsewhere, design director Daniel Wingate and co. spotlighted Escada's heritage leopard spots on outerwear items, a statement-making tuxedo, and even a long-sleeve evening dress. Other highlights here included tailored separates decorated with mirrored accents that resembled shards of glass; a fun, feathered LBD; and a slim column gown with a panel of shimmering copper sequins down the front. Those looks brought back a bit of Escada's familiar flash, which had been largely absent for several seasons.
15 December 2013
After aiming for a more youthful audience in recent seasons, for Spring, Escada refocused on its core clientele of mature women who wouldn't be caught dead in a crop top. Still, the Escada gal isn't opposed to showing some skin, and the latest lineup played up shoulders as the new erogenous zone with one-shouldered caftan dresses, strapless evening gowns, and embellished cocktail sheaths with rippling cascades down one side. Creating a sense of escapism is a continual goal for creative director Daniel Wingate and co., and they achieved that here with bold prints including blown-up florals, wild zebra stripes, giraffe spots, and playful pineapple motifs that added a graphic pop to flattering cap-sleeve dresses, easy tunics, and double-knit, fit-and-flare frocks. A tailored suit featuring an abstract wave pattern was a standout, as was the floaty finale maxi dress with rope straps, which would work as both a poolside cover-up and a party-ready look for a night on the town. Other highlights included specialty leather pieces like a cropped-sleeve car coat and an A-line shift featuring perforated details achieved by strategically blasting high-pressure water, not the usual laser-cutting. It'd be nice to see more envelope-pushing like that from Escada moving forward.
9 September 2013
Escada has been working to reestablish its visibility and relevance over the past several seasons. The new Resort lineup is a step in the right direction, but Daniel Wingate and his design team could stand to kick it up if they really want to raise the label's fashion cred. Seaside towns dotting the Mediterranean coast served as the collection's jumping-off point, and that inspiration translated to a color palette of sun-drenched pastel hues—canary yellow, blush rose, and powder blue—and the faded Liguria tile print, which turned up on a cap-sleeve sheath.Highlights included pretty blouses and pencil skirts adorned with feminine ruffles, as well as a pin-tucked day dress that looked like it could have been cut from delicate organza but was in fact an ultra-gauzy knit. In the eveningwear category, slim tuxedos (some decorated with the house's signature gold-bullion embroidery at the wrists) and an off-the-shoulder number with floating seams looked fresh. The biggest standouts were the cropped jackets done in perforated, laser-cut, or basket-woven leather. Escada's committed customer is reportedly responding to more detailed pieces like those lately, so Wingate and co. ought to keep them coming.
27 May 2013
Modernizing Escada while maintaining the somewhat excessive essence of the brand is the mission with which the recently promoted fashion director Daniel Wingate has been tasked. The past few collections indicate that Wingate is on track to steer the 35-year-old brand into the future. Here, the most successful looks were pared down. Sharp suiting separates in on-trend powder pink and a matching topcoat had an ageless appeal, while a tan leather T-shirt-and-pencil-skirt set also seemed fresh, particularly when styled with a sleek chrome belt. Still, Wingate isn't leading the label down a minimalist rabbit hole. He was more playful with outerwear and eveningwear. Patchworked fur coats and glam jumpsuits and column gowns trimmed with frothy feathers at the shoulders seemed more like the flashy old Escada. That's not necessarily a bad thing.
25 March 2013
Last week, Helen Mirren hit it out of the park at the Palm Springs Film Festival Awards in a curve-hugging red gown from Escada, effectively stealing the spotlight from starlets half her age. The eveningwear in the label's new pre-fall collection looked better than ever. Dame Mirren would look smashing in look twenty-two, with its embellished sheer bodice and floor-scraping Yves Klein-blue skirt. Ditto goes for the long-sleeve number with metallic embroidery on see-through tulle. Daytime highlights included a lightweight tweed car coat, as well as several jacquard pieces featuring a photo print of a greenhouse atrium in Paris. Digital prints are nothing new to avid fashion followers, but these were a step forward for the brand and will make a modern addition to the Escada customer's wardrobe.
9 January 2013
Escada has long had a reputation for flashy opulence, but in recent years, the house's design team has worked diligently to move away from clothes you might see during a rerun ofDynasty.The Spring collection was inspired by Miami, and many of these pieces would be right at home in the vibrant, sizzling city. The Escada customer loves color, and the canary-yellow looks here—a tailored tuxedo with a contrasting double lapel, and a one-shouldered, curve-hugging sheath dress—are sure to grab her attention. Other memorable moments included handwoven perforated leather tunics, as well as bright wave-print shift dresses with flattering side insets. While Escada has definitely toned down its penchant for bling lately, the occasional fringed sequin jacket and gold hardware detail subtly hinted at the brand's more extravagant past. On that note, there was nothing understated about the lineup's standout evening gown, a black lace number with a sheer skirt and up-to-there slit.
4 September 2012