Aaron Esh (Q2493)
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Aaron Esh is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Aaron Esh |
Aaron Esh is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Several houses in fashion claim a hedonistic, rock ’n’ roll soul. There are many more that once flourished but have since disbanded. What we haven’t witnessed for some years in this arena though is a true breakout: the emergence of some young indie that grasps the flame, makes it relevant to now, and fires a generation to dress for excess.Aaron Esh has sensed the availability of that tantalizing niche. And with the patronage of Sarabande (the foundation established and endowed by Alexander McQueen) plus the input of stylist Katy England and this season a bursary from Jaguar he seems nicely positioned to pursue it. Esh said of tonight’s show and collection: “It’s about decadence. The idea of velvet and silk and leather. But seen in the most Hackney way.” He added that he was inspired by hard-up and hard-partying East London aesthetes who haunt Vestiaire Collective for months in order to secure that perfect vintage piece to go out in. This detail neatly dealt with any watching old-timer’s vague sense of deja-vu: for as well as McQueen, Esh’s work sometimes evoked canonical players like Lang, Slimane, Ford, Cavalli, Varvatos and Yves Saint Laurent (who is to rock ’n’ roll fashion what Muddy Waters is to rock ’n’ roll).Skinny tie/scarves from Rockins and vintage stack-heeled boots accessorized a menswear section that riffed through the heritage of glam from Marc Bolan to indie sleaze. There was a visually catchy refrain in the diagonal vectors of seamed paneling incorporated into tailored silk satin and leather. Dresses were shiny liquid licks of fabric laid expertly down and around the wearer.“To me fashion is that girl, that person at the party,” said Esh after a show whose tautness, focus and confidence was total. What his work seems ripe for, though, is the addition of some sensation-catalyzing creative shock: a kind of Andrew Weatherall onScreamadelicalayering of the unexpected that transforms the heritage he’s mining to feel entirely new and now again. You wouldn’t bet against Esh finding that fresh angle and making the breakthrough.
14 September 2024
London maintains its reputation as a center for cutting-edge fashion because of talents like Aaron Esh. The designer, who is currently receiving support and mentorship from the Sarabande Foundation, presented an evocative sophomore collection in a salon-style presentation at the organization’s East London headquarters. A quick glance at the front row revealed Esh’s industry endorsement.A hush descended as guests settled into their seats; suddenly, music erupted from the speakers—a discordant fusion of indie rock melodies deftly curated by DJ John Gosling—sending vibrations through the fold-out chairs. The first model, runway star Kiki Willems, emerged wearing a compelling sheer midi dress paired with a gray skinny scarf, followed by models clad in glittering jeans, impeccably tailored coats, and crystal-adorned pumps. It all evoked blurry snapshots of Kate Moss strolling home at 5 AM which isn’t surprising given that the designer arrived at the collection’s slim pants silhouette by sourcing and unraveling vintage Kate Moss x Topshop jeans as part of his research. Esh has a gift for straddling the fine line between ultra-modern sophistication and the raw allure of subcultural icons—“Like a bottle of prosecco, but with a spoon in it,” he quipped ahead of the show.A standout this season is the cocoon form, which mixes inspiration from the sleek, ’50s designs of Pierre Cardin and noughties club kids, and is achieved by integrating raglan sleeves into tops and outerwear. (That shape is also present in the sensually draped backs on leather trenches and satin wool jackets.) Every button is meticulously covered in fabric, echoing the centuries-old practices of haute couture maisons. “It’s a fusion of Parisian classicism, where construction and form is everything, with this nonchalant wardrobe that embodies the spirit of East London,” Esh added. A midriff-bearing hoodie with a high neck and oversized hood was another manifestation of the high-low mood. Sheer backless evening dresses, flowing maxi skirts (some accompanied by satin cummerbunds), and keyhole jersey tops further showcased the designer’s skill at draping. In the accessory domain, oversized shades evoked the fashion sensibilities of Mary-Kate Olsen from the early ’00s, while a chic top-handle bag was crafted from contrasting black leathers and added a refined touch amid the logo-adorned baseball caps in faded hues. Models wore the brand’s popular smart yet cartoon-like Comma lace-up shoes.
The memorable finale look—a floor-length coat dress with a pouf at the hem, constructed from iridescent faux pony skin made of wool—paid homage to Esh’sunmistakable bubble silhouette, first unveiled at his Central Saint Martins graduate show in 2022. Being a buzzed-about name in fashion brings its own pressures, but the designer seems prepared to navigate this newfound attention. “It’s hard enough to find the money to make all of this happen; I’m not bothered about being known as a personality, or even to walk out at the end of my own show, for that matter,” he asserted. Two things are clear: With patience and tenacity Esh is bound to soar; and skinny jeans have officially made a comeback.
18 February 2024