Aje (Q2558)

Aje co-founders Edwina Forest and Adrian Norris invited their considerable local fanbase free entry to the new SANAA-designed, $344 million Sydney Modern Project gallery bright and early this morning. Well before the first art lovers rolled in, the dressed up Aje-lovers were finding their seats amongst pieces by Sol Le Witt, Frank Stella and Ugo Rondinone.The collection Aje exhibited marked the brand’s 15 year anniversary and, at least according to heavy rumor here, might well be their last show in Sydney for a while. Norris and Forest neither confirmed nor denied the talk that they are headed to New York in September, but the figures they shared suggested the time is ripe to do so. According to Norris 81% of Aje’s sales are made in Australia, while of the remainder sold abroad 80% is sold in the United States.You could see the collection they exhibited here today building a wider audience Stateside were it to go on tour there. Very Australian but aspirationally exportable too were the singlet-top looks near the beginning paired with ruffled skirts or glinting sequined pants. Dressed up but inherently casual, they exemplified what Norris called an “undone elegance” that is central both to Aje and much—at least based on this fashion week so far—of this city’s most interesting labels. Also informally elevated were an off-the-shoulder sheer silk trench (over another singlet); sheer shirting over a ruffle crossed white cotton mini skirt; washed long-yoked denim work shirts, pants, and skirts, and a boxy mini dress in black worn atop white fisherman’s sandals.Pattern emerged via restrained forays into what looked like broderie anglaise/australienne florals and the odd embroidered botanical, as well as a smudged-oil floral print on silk. More specifically vespertine looks included ruffled tops and long skirts in coral; floating chiffon floral floor-length numbers; and complicatedly wild chiffon constructions in magenta, orange, and lime. An olive and wood-toned theme emerged towards the end, alongside a sequin-borne excursion into lime and magenta contrast—linked on one look again with that significant opening singlet. If this was the last show here before a New York coming of Aje, it made for farewell to fondly remember.