Allegra Hicks (Q2612)

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Allegra Hicks is a fashion house from FMD.
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Allegra Hicks
Allegra Hicks is a fashion house from FMD.

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    What season could be better suited to the talents of Allegra Hicks, queen of caftans, than Resort? Her prints—this season a bold tropical motif and some smaller florals—naturally lend themselves to flowy, beach-friendly separates in jersey, stretch poplin, toweling, and a crinkled gauze that especially captured the sea-and-sand mood. Still, there were no surprises here. And for all of its patterns, the collection lacked a real creative imprint.
    After building a following on her caftans, it was inevitable that Allegra Hicks would want to challenge herself more as a designer. There's a whole world of structure out there to explore. Hence, tailored items like the lamé pinstripe suit and the brocade cocktail dress in this collection. The tailoring lacked the necessary precision, however. Hicks fared better when she kept things simple, wrapped, and draped—she claimed as inspiration the dress worn by Ballets Russes dancer Olga Khokhlova in Picasso's 1917 portrait. One silk-jersey wrap dress, called Fifty-Four, was also surely a tip of the cap to erstwhile disco queen Diane von Furstenberg.That was a reminder that Hicks herself is the linchpin of a glamorous set. Presumably, it was her friends she had in mind when she came up with a collection that slotted so completely into the category once called After Five. If that sounds a little, um,squarein our own era, then there was also something a little square about these clothes. A velvet opera coat with fox-trimmed sleeves or a coat of silver leather ribbed with fur (and worn with tweed lamé trousers) offered the Hicksettes a kind of antique glamour curiously at odds with what one imagines to be their lifestyles.
    14 February 2008
    "I'm here for the girlfriends. This is my block," said a PR girl at the door of Allegra Hicks' show. She was gesturing to a wide expanse of the seating, and it was full: India Hicks and her mother, Lady Pamela Hicks; Becca Cason Thrash; the Countess of Albemarle; Cosima von Bülow; Suzanne Kapoor; Andrea Dellal. They were there, of course, to support a dear friend, and maybe to shop for next summer's vacation wardrobe. For the press, opposite, it was a bit more puzzling. For apart from the people-noting (these ladies don't turn out just anywhere), it didn't seem like a fashion show at which it was possible to note much fashion going on. Allegra Hicks does caftans, full-length and short, of the kind that hit the high street two years ago—more expensive, maybe, but no news now. She also has a way with pretty leafy prints, summery high-waisted halters, jersey dresses, and then a couple of gowns, one in pale chiffon suspended from crossover spaghetti straps, another in liquid copper. Rather than make it an official on-schedule press show—at the end of a week in which there has been so much innovative design—she would probably do better next time to present her collection in a more private, at-home setting among her friends. That, or regroup and come back with a design statement that feels stronger than this.
    19 September 2007