Amsale (Q2636)
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Amsale is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Amsale |
Amsale is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Amsale could not host a presentation this season due to the coronavirus pandemic. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection via photos and remote interviews.The bridal market may be better suited to the concept of virtual shows than any other. After all, how many wedding day fantasies begin with a photo saved to a Pinterest board or Instagram folder? The experience of buying a dress has been documented for years on reality programming and YouTube clips, to the point where many people enter stores with a “seen it all” outlook that colors their choices.As AMSALE’s design director, Margo Lafontaine understands the impact of our digital engagement with bridalwear, so when it came time to present her collections online, she was prepared. Earlier this year, the brand debuted a virtual try-on feature for clients complete with the option to upload their selfies. The spring lookbook, comprised of user-generated content created by couples like Broadway-star Laura Osnes and her husband, the photographer Nathan Johnson, also felt of the moment.The focus on new media did little to diminish the brand’s classicism, however. In the two years since founder Amsale Aberra’s passing Lafontaine has stayed true to her minimal, refined look, and spring continued that tradition. The absence of the couture segment—in the name of safety for its employees Amsale halted production last month before the completion of some of the more ornate looks—resulted in a stark feel with gowns differentiated by a single statement detail. Crisscrossing back straps, flared skirts, and asymmetrical necklines added touches of individuality, but the traditional silhouettes felt like variations on a theme. The similitude makes sense given that brides can mix and match elements to customize their dresses online.The choose your own adventure approach is novel, but the collection’s real fun came via its singular pieces. A pale shirtdress ideal for minimalists and a retro strapless dress with transparent lace overlay both charted fresh territory, as did a compelling long-sleeved satin number that didn’t need a single embellishment to stand out.
18 April 2020
Excess is not a word traditionally associated with Amsale, but Fall 2020 found the brand in an indulgent mood. All five of its bridal collections were present in an effort to show a 360-degree wardrobe for the entire wedding party. For the comprehensive event, Amsale took over Midtown’s Metropolitan West. In pictures, the gradient lineup of bridesmaids dresses and tableaus of models may seem charming, but the reality of so many collections in a layout that required a map was overwhelming. The variety was beautiful, but the sensory overload of taking them all in made it difficult to appreciate each look individually.The simplicity that defined Amsale Aberra’s work and now informs current design director Margo LaFontaine was most evident in the refined Nouvelle Amsale section. Tulle ballgowns with Chantilly lace will always dazzle Amsale brides, and LaFontaine managed to make the most classic pieces feel fresh. Sweetheart necklines and trains topped off with a bow were nothing new, but they packed a dramatic wow factor.The more modern pieces in the Amsale section lent a touch of cool to the proceedings. Who needs floor-length anything when you’ve got a delicate minidress made for dancing?
5 October 2019
In the year since Amsale Aberra’s passing, her namesake label has continued in a manner befitting her legacy. The collections under Amsale’s new design director, Margo Lafontaine, have respected Aberra’s streamlined aesthetic, but evolution is inevitable. Spring 2020 gave Lafontaine and her team the opportunity to mix things up, starting with a show in the heart of Chelsea. With Ariana Grande blaring on the speakers, they presented four separate versions of the Amsale woman, united by an understated aesthetic and layers of delicate Mimi So jewelry.The main Amsale line offered classics in the form of ballgowns with sweetheart necklines and crystal bodices, while the younger range, Nouvelle Amsale, went a bit more playful with Chantilly lace and sheer backs with sparkling embroideries. Standouts included a silk faille strapless number with elegant draping and a tiered dress with flower petals sprinkled down the back. Each look was delivered in crisp white, making it somewhat difficult to separate the ranges. A touch of nude, or even—gasp!—blush would have been daring for this house, but the lineup offered other ways for brides to experiment on their big day.The show closed with a new line, Amsale x You, an online customization program that allows clients to mix and match pieces from the brand’s archive. Shown on seven brides-to-be, including opera singer Bria Langer and women’s health advocate Dr. Melynda Barnes, it offered a glimpse at how women are incorporating the season’s bridal trends into their weddings—and the universal appeal of Amsale’s designs.
15 April 2019
If you’re at all superstitious, you’ll be familiar with the adage about brides needing something old and something new to ensure good luck on their wedding day. The latest Amsale collection appeared to take that seriously. The brand has undergone sweeping changes since the death of its founder, Amsale Aberra, in April, and its Fall show addressed both the past and the future. Creative director Margo Lafontaine’s debut showed a fresh direction, including the label’s three distinct lines: Amsale, Nouvelle Amsale, and Little White Dress. They were united by a sense of simplicity and ease; Amsale may have had a changing of the guard, but the timeless, minimalist aesthetic is still there.Each line had its own high points: Nouvelle Amsale’s crepe gowns with Chantilly lace were unquestionably pretty, as were the taffeta ball gowns with bodices covered in flowers. The reintroduction of Aberra’s Little White Dress capsule, a series of informal looks dedicated to the moments before and after the ceremony, paid tribute to the designer’s legacy with flirty shifts and circle skirts that could work for cocktail hour or simply an evening out. Amsale’s expansion beyond strict wedding attire was cheekily punctuated by the sounds of Bobby Rush “I Think Your Dress Is Too Short” on the speakers.Unsurprisingly, Lafontaine’s finale gowns spurred some of the biggest reactions, perhaps because they were a bit grander and more decorative than the sleek columns and sheaths before them. They still had a touch of casualness, though—particularly the last look, which came with a long-sleeved lace T-shirt “layered” underneath.
10 October 2018
Summing up a fashion career is no small task, but Amsale Aberra’s final collection managed just that. Just a few weeks ago, news of Aberra’s passing stunned and saddened the industry, but as per her wishes, the Spring 2019 bridal show went on as planned. On Friday, friends, family, and editors convened in the penthouse of the Gramercy Park Hotel to celebrate Aberra and her life’s work.Arriving on the scene in the late ’80s when maximalism typified the bridal market, Aberra swung the pendulum in the other direction with her pared-back, refined dresses. That history was reflected in the new collection, composed of understated gowns for brides who prefer an effortless look. The mood was simple and elegant, from a halter dress in lush taffeta to a spaghetti-strap gown with delicate seaming.Sticking to the classics with a range of white gowns elevated by subtle details, this collection included two distinct lines: Nouvelle Amsale, the relaunched, minimalist-leaning label, and Amsale, its more decadent cousin. Each lineup had its high points, but the addition of luxurious Chantilly lace and silk faille provided the latter category with a few dreamier options, most notably the intricately crafted ball gown covered in crystal embroidery and pearls.Rounding out the show was a tribute to the A101 column, the first gown Aberra ever designed. In duchesse satin with an illusion neckline, it remains one of the brand’s signatures, and has been co-opted and copied countless times since its debut in 1990. Its sense of timelessness—a dress that could come from and look chic in any era—will serve as Aberra’s legacy.
17 April 2018