Andreadamo (Q2645)
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Andreadamo is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Andreadamo |
Andreadamo is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
It’s not the destination that matters, but the path you take to reach it. The journey is an ongoing discovery, and that’s where Andrea Adamo began his spring collection. After a season of absence, he returned to the runway thanks to the support of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. “I want to show the determination that drives me to keep challenging myself,” said the designer. His tears at the end of the show and the palpable emotion already present during the fittings a few days before were a reminder of how difficult it is to find a balance and to enjoy oneself when navigating the fashion system. Especially when you’re “small” and independent.Perhaps that’s why he brought his girls to a nightclub. He was on the other side of the globe last summer when he re-explored that sense of freedom that only the night can offer. The runway reflected the experience of letting go. Stripping away the inherent taboos of body sexualization, he transformed nudity into a state of mind. Nude 01, Nude 02, Nude 03, like shades of skin, are the colors that have defined his stylistic identity since day one. The clothes’ lines embraced the body’s form, approaching without constraining it, but the more form-fitting silhouettes alternated with volumes that were new in the designer’s lexicon. Miniskirts and balloon pants in georgette, sometimes open at the sides but always tight at the ankle, were paired with Aviator-style leather bombers or knitted tops, which continue to serve as a dictionary to understanding the language of Andreadamo.Layering bodysuits, garments that hide pockets, see-through organza dresses, knitwear crafted in mesh or stripes using transparent thread, stretch corsets used as bustiers over tailored suits: Everything spoke of a gritty and never predictable femininity. Sensuality burst forth in the trompe-l’œil dresses and tops, where the naked body was an optical illusion created by hand airbrushing the garments. Fringes—in knit, crunchy sequins or crystals—enhanced movement, creating precious fluid sculptures. The attitude was a kind of power dressing that became contemporary in a narrative of liberated eroticism. That’s how the collection revealed all the energy we need.
22 September 2024
Andrea Adamo opted out of the catwalk this season to present in an industrial warehouse. More akin to an artsy event than to a fashion presentation, it showcased looks sandwiched bi-dimensionally between clear plexiglass frames suspended from the ceiling; glossy AI-generated images of blown-up details were hung on walls.Although fashion has moved on from overt body-consciousness, Adamo has stuck to his guns, and he’s still a firm proponent of an almost anatomical take on the female form. It’s not about the lacy, see-through lingerie look seen on some runways this season; his approach is sculptural and imperative, with an accent on strong shapes almost molded onto the body—more second-skin erotic armors than fragile boudoir glamour. He almost carved his slinky silhouettes from a new luscious scuba fabrication with a glazed, succulent surface matching skin tones, malleable enough to be sculpted into body-hugging tailored jackets and swingy A-line minidresses.While staying true to his aesthetic, Adamo cleverly expanded his range, adding a daywear offer with a softer fit for those who don’t necessarily want to flaunt their curves. Roomy coats and knitwear with cut-out details, as well as wide-leg trousers, had more forgiving volumes, while still retaining a sexy undertone. “As a designer, you have to hold true to your identity,” Adamo said. “But it wouldn’t be smart not to acknowledge how women are multifaceted, how they constantly evolve. You have to evolve with them.”
27 February 2024
As long as designers like Andrea Adamo walk the earth, high-wattage body-con dressing will never die. Ditto the whole arsenal that glorifies a potent idea of femininity—Amazonian armor in the form of oversized leather bikers, strong-shouldered power suits, and sultry numbers revealing ample expanses of bare skin. Severe minimalism certainly doesn’t move the needle of Adamo’s almost visceral love for fashion that’s hot, womanly, and erotically charged.Unfazed by trends, he stuck to his guns for spring. “I don’t care,” he said backstage before today’s show. “I want to build my brand around my own beliefs and a strong identity.” He sent out a collection confident enough to leave no doubt about the direction he’s taking.Masculine tailoring flirting with the erotic was how he got his message across. Cinch-waisted, broad-shouldered blazers worn over slouchy cargos played against second-skin, neck-plunging ribbed Henleys borrowed from the boys and elongated into dresses rendered in shades of nude. Ribbons of stretch jersey gave shape to tight-fitting strapless dresses or ultratight pencil skirts, while a knitted stitched jersey, called an “X-ray” for its see-through properties, outlined provocative, curvy silhouettes. Likewise, sheer gossamer tulle was draped and folded into body-hugging nude minidresses worn over leggings. Adamo definitely doesn’t design for wallflowers.One of Adamo’s favorite muses is the singer Mina, whose magnetic, stirring voice was on the soundtrack. “Her mystery, fierceness, and strength represent what I like in a woman,” he said. Not surprisingly, she is known as the “Tiger of Cremona,” after the city in northern Italy from which she hails.
23 September 2023
Growing up in Crotone, a small provincial town in Italy’s deep south, Andrea Adamo had to endure the prejudices and narrow-mindedness of a patriarchal culture that tried to sabotage his sense of identity and his dreams of becoming who he is today. “But I always held my head high, and I never gave up on my beliefs,” he said backstage. “No matter the hardships, here I am.”After years working for brands like Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana, Adamo launched his eponymous brand during the 2020 lockdown, an act of bravery under the circumstances. Today was his third outing, which was intended as an homage to his hometown and to his personal story of resilience and tenacity.Crotone sits in a dry landscape of clay hills, whose cracked textures served as a template for a jacquard motif on a sweeping greatcoat and on a knitted combo of leggings and a tight-fitting off-the-shoulder top. The bodycon ultra-sexy silhouettes in stretch ribbed textures that elicited the attention of celebs like Dua Lipa were offered here in elaborate variations, variously slashed with revealing cutouts, extended with circular panels or with hanging ribbons. They were worn under oversized coat in knitted fur, under lacquered biker shearlings or black glossy leather overshirts. An imposing greatcoat in sunflower yellow shearling slit at the sides was a standout, emerging from the collection’s palette of grays that was a reminder of the tones of Crotone’s surrounding hills. Trying his hand at tailoring was also a smart move for Adamo, who’s cleverly expanding his range to appeal to a wider audience. He has come a long way from his hometown.
25 February 2023
“I thought it was really time to think big, to create a show that was the maximum expression of who I am.” So said Andrea Adamo before his show this evening. The incentive to think big, he added, was driven by the popularity of his knitwear amongst influential dressers including Dua Lipa, Anitta, Nicola Peltz and Julia Fox.The models came out of a modern building in Piazza Olivetti, a square behind the Prada Foundation. Their catwalk was a shallow pool of water, through which they splashed in flip-flops with maxi platforms or sandals with solid but vertiginous heels. “Water, in this collection is a fundamental element,” said Adamo, adding that it pointed to the inspiration he had drawn from a surf village named Famara in Lanzarote. Every morning, when the breaks come in, surfers both local and from far-flung locales—sometimes including Adamo—congregate.The ribbed knit, the basis of the brand’s DNA, was transformed by thin nylon threads within it that gave it a more solid structure: the knits both contained and added volume to the undulations of their wearer. Wetsuit reminiscent underlayers provided the foundation for fringed and woven dresses. Cargo pants and capris in distressed leather and treated cottons swayed with strapping. The clothes as well as the water beneath them were driven by tides of movement.
21 September 2022