Cinoh (Q2787)
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Cinoh is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Cinoh |
Cinoh is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Takayuki Chino of Cinoh has been, like many other designers at the moment, thinking of the intricacies of gender identity and expression, and their relationship to fashion. Genderlessness and fluidity seem to puzzle some designers these days, and the fact that customers seem to care exponentially less about what’s womenswear or what’s menswear while they shop does not seem to make things clearer.For this reason, after showing both collections together, Chino has recently been focusing exclusively on womenswear for his runway collections. With this season’s line-up of minimalist wardrobe staples, Chino’s goal was to differentiate between his menswear items, and the masculine language that often accompanies his women’s assortment. It’s not that he doesn’t believe in unisex clothes, he makes clear to point out, he just has a specific vision for each.The collection itself comprises a healthy range of tailoring concepts and shirting, mostly in solid colors (with the exception of two one-off prints that could have been either edited or explored further). Chino says his silhouettes this season were informed by how the skin looks through movement and a “healthy [level of] exposure,” though the collection was at its most believable in the less-revealing pieces; like a trouser skirt worn with a matching loose-fitting, long sleeve turtleneck, or a matching light white shirting trouser skirt and slightly oversized quarter button down shirt. Another important consideration for him was “the space between the body and the clothes,” as were sharp lines, and a focus on the waist; which was most evident in roomy tailored vests with a tie, wide trousers and jeans, and an emphasis on loose shirting. Meanwhile, pieces like a knitted sweater with translucent sleeves or a cropped zip hoodie were distracting from the overall vision.The absence of non-neutrals past a soft lavender hue (which Chino said has an image of intelligence, elegance, and regeneration in Japan) allowed the construction and proportions to take center stage. Chino has successfully set a unique tone for his womenswear collections, though his menswear offerings will play a defining factor in differentiating both. The reality is that his customer will likely shop across both, and in the end, isn’t that what fashion is? A suggestion, a sartorial alternative in a sea of hegemonic, made-up rules prime for breaking.
1 September 2022
Takayuki Chino may be too young to have lived through the carefree days of hippie culture, but Cinoh’s designer understands its appeal. For spring, he explored the era’s flower children and their outdoorsy pursuits, topics connected to the season’s themes of rebirth and optimism. Fall found Chino holding onto those ideas but evolving them into something weightier. Just as the nonconformist kids of the ’60s ditched their flower crowns and became corporate leaders, Chino’s muses took on newfound maturity. The collection’s setting was en plein air, but the models weren’t interested in lounging. Ready to stomp into their next board meeting and take charge, they wore cool-toned turtlenecks with double-breasted coats, ice blue fur vests layered over black separates, and fringed caftans that swayed as they walked.Cozy textures like distressed velvet and chunky cashmere knit added to the workwear’s versatility. When layered and styled with equestrian boots or two-tone flats, the pieces felt severe, at times sober, but it’s easy to imagine the individual elements broken up and worn casually. A cable-knit cropped sweater is subdued when paired with high-waist trousers and a ribbed turtleneck, but throw it on with jeans and sneakers, and it takes on a completely different mood.Chino’s interest in sophistication is evident, but the designer hasn’t forgotten how to have fun. His playfulness came through in a series of separates detailed with a latticework of cutouts that drew the eye closer and via pleats and pastels that enlivened key moments. Indeed the bursts of color served to boost Chino’s standouts. After all the neutrals, the pale pink of the tasseled capes and maxi coats with artfully folded collars were impossible to ignore.
22 March 2022
Like many brands this season CINOH produced a film. The serene beachfront short that showcased Takayuki Chino’s spring lineup was an escapist trip to the seaside set to hip-hop beats and the backdrop mirrored the ultra-chill vibe of the clothing. The collection was divided into two halves; in part one, the shapes were relaxed, their colors drawn from nature. These ideas were best conveyed via tie-dyed skirts with lace inserts and gossamer-light shirts large enough to be called caftans. An appealing break from the workwear many designers are pushing, Chino’s collection arrives at the right time. If you’re not quite ready for the seriousness and structure of suits or the rigidity of tight, tailored dresses, his work provides plenty of alternatives.The second act was slightly more formal; its series of black, white, and beige pieces were better suited to evenings or especially dressy lunch dates. It’s hard to find fault with classics like black bell bottoms, knit tops, and silk bomber jackets, but the watercolor blouses and floral flecked pants featured earlier had a lightness that bolstered their appeal. Even if the boardroom is your final destination, the frayed skirts, woven tunics, and stripe-covered button-downs of the opening looks are likely what you’d reach for. With the world still an uncertain place, clothes that can deliver a sense of playfulness and ease are the ones that feel necessary.
7 September 2021