Cormio (Q2839)
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Cormio is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Cormio |
Cormio is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
“Boo! I know why you’re scared” thundered the metallic voice in the background. There was no music, just a letter written with force by Jezabelle Cormio and her team—read by artificial intelligence—punctuating the sound of footsteps. According to Cormio, garments are never the destination but always the medium. “I didn’t believe that men could be truly frightened by women until I experienced it,” she said. “I wanted to resist the idea that they were trying to restrain us because we are intimidating, but what happened in Iran made me think. The response to a call for independence was nothing else than chaotic panic: the fear of losing privilege fuels male paranoia.”Her increased awareness led the designer to craft the storyline for “Why you scared?” her spring 2024 collection, starting with what she described as the point of tension between the genders. Hers is the perspective of a young rebel who, with a more aggressive and explicit approach to references compared to previous collections, has forged a new balance between punk style and Tyrolean dress codes, which are emblematic of her aesthetic. At the heart of her narrative was the demon Jezebel, a biblical figure with a name resembling her own. She is a dangerously beautiful woman who seeks to seize power, and for this reason she must be restrained.On the runway there were studded belts—a nod to Y2K fashion—and adorned cuffs. Floral embroidery graced knitwear and ribbons, Capri pants and vests were inspired by doublets from the 18th century, leg warmers were worn as socks and bandanas were twisted with charms, together with graphics reminiscent of Dario Argento'sSuspiriaposters. Emphasizing the dialogue between loungewear and eveningwear, seen from an adolescent perspective, there were boxers and pajama pants contrasting with romantic flowing dresses worn with clogs or grunge boots created in collaboration with Ugg. Soccer-ball-shaped bags symbolized a cultural appropriation of something that has traditionally belonged to men.However, fear did not silence the conversation. During the finale, the notes of “I Will Survive” by Gloria Gaynor acted as a megaphone for Cormio’s thoughts.
22 September 2023
“Even when you are an adult, if you are a woman, the world wants you to be a girl,” said Jezabelle Cormio. And not only in terms of aesthetics: in attitude, the world wants you to be quiet and laid back. Cormio leaned into her feminist desire for rebellion by showing at a soccer field on the outskirts of Milan, with blue floors and young female players watching the show sitting down, legs crossed, somewhere between amused and puzzled. Some exchanged a few throws with the braver guests. It was an unusual setting for the fashion system, but not for the mothers present, who joked about finding themselves in the same place where they were last weekend.Instead of running away from that idea of girliness, the collection embraced it with a sense of humor. It drew from Cormio’s Y2K teenage years and muses like Avril Lavigne and Amy Winehouse, with tributes to their style. There were purple and black pinstripe pants, silver ballerinas and neon hair bands. For Cormio the common thread is always irony. “I wanted to add [embroidered on knitted and lured polo shirts] phrases like “Nice Pair”, clearly born from a diffused sexism, that I found on sweats and T-shirts of the most popular brands from those years,” she said. This was just one example of the designer’s goal to utilize clothes and accessories to unleash her emotions and perceptions, as well as contribute to establishing a more equal society through activism. “While preparing the collection I went to see a young female soccer tournament; the girls were feeling empowered through their sport,” she said. On the male and female models’ feet—the collection was womenswear but included a few looks worn by men—were soccer shoes embellished with safety pins with multi-colored beads. Models carried bags literally made like soccer balls in pink and yellow with contrasting pentagons; some wore goalkeeper’s gloves with glittered middle fingers. A light but determined fighting spirit is an important value to Cormio.
24 February 2023
Jezabelle Cormio is a millennial mum. “When my daughter was born I had no references, I was the first parent in my circle of friends. I was confronted with the fear of losing my former self, surrounded by people who cherished their lifestyle and saw parents as boring people. Then, at some point, I found the irony in this new life, balanced between the desire to cultivate my femininity and the calm chaos that is everyday family living.”Spring is an autobiographical collection. Cormio took guests to a beautiful and traditional house in Milan’s Naviglio Martesana area. Every wall and corner was filled objects she brought from her home. There was a Fisher-Price toy phone, a stroller from Bugaboo (she’s doing a collab with the company), a giant wristwatch hanging on the wall, puppets, and a Barbie house. Yet it was also a political parade, with the spray-painted inscription, “we’ll see how you feel about abortions after I fuck your husband,” on T-shirts. It was a very strong signal on the eve of the Italian general election, with right-wing parties questioning what we would like to take for granted.In making clothes, Cormio works on instinct. She is the queen of the unexpected, unafraid of the ugly and constantly playing with the idea of cringe (also via the brand’s Instagram account, which is not to be missed). She did so here by good-naturedly poking fun at mums who wear extremely technical sportswear outfits for an afternoon on the playground, giving them bikercore suits with duck embroidery. There were also silk dresses printed with drawings of her daughter’s favorite book, decorated with tulle ruffles reminiscent of children’s disguises.The theme of dress-up kept coming up—see a yellow skirt inspired by Belle’s fromBeauty and the Beast, and a silver one that the designer said is “my version of Cinderella’s dress.” The skimpy Tyrollean jumpers she’s known for were back, only this time the dads wore them, while mums’ looks were finished by studded leather belts. In family chaos, dressing up is often a game, but Cormio is serious about challenging the standards that contemporary society demands of mothers.
26 September 2022