Derercuny (Q2907)
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Derercuny is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Derercuny |
Derercuny is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
2003
creative hand
In the four seasons she's been showing on the Milan runways, Mina Lee's Derercuny has undergone a metamorphosis, shifting from smart tailoring with subtle, memorable details to full-on girly mode. The collection keeps skewing younger and younger. For Spring, thinking one part hippie, another part glam, she laid the embellishments on thick: There were mirrored sequins on chiffon waistcoats and white feathers peeking from beneath the hem of a tank dress. A pair of stretchy cream leather pants worn with a pale, floaty floral-print chiffon top was a key look; it's what a prep-schooler might wear to pose as a rock chick.Apparently Lee's label is a favorite among retailers, but there wasn't a U.S. department store bigwig in sight at her 9 p.m. show. The buyers must view the collection in the showroom, which might not be a bad place for the rest of us to take it in, too. The clothes are sweet and pretty, but they're not making news.
23 September 2008
What's missing from the modern woman's wardrobe? It's not the tunic dress, densely embroidered to evoke armor and featuring sheer, G-string-exposing, ruched tulle sides, that closed the Derercuny show. A blouse in black lace—also see-through, and with the puffed upper sleeves of a medieval knight's costume—probably isn't topping anybody's must-have list either. But there they both were in Korean designer Mina Lee's third runway show for this Samsung-backed, Milan-based brand. Once upon a time (as in before she started showing the collection on a catwalk), Lee was known for the deceptively simple, wearable way she mixed feminine details with masculine tailoring. Therewerepractical and chic pieces here, including a blouson sweater vest that topped a high-neck button-down chiffon blouse and long khaki flares, as well as on-trend, thick-ribbed, short sweater dresses that looked dipped in gold or silver paint. But they were lost in the Gothic haze produced by the out-of-date notion of building a collection around an inspiration as overt as the Middle Ages.
16 February 2008
The Derercuny program notes explained that designer Mina Lee had "embraced geometry as the inspiration of a sensual and refined femininity." Loosely translated, that meant she used large origami-like crowns as decoration on her dresses and jackets. Fair enough. Even Dolce & Gabbana embraced artfulness this season, and origami has certainly been in the air. But Lee's theme eventually got the better of her. The streamers of bow-tied ribbons that decorated some pieces, waist to hemline, or that functioned as underskirts or as scarves, were rather cloying. Ditto the oversize petal-like appendages on a trapeze dress. It's too bad, because there were things here to like: an easy, short, boxy black and green color-blocked slipdress; an L.B.D. with a mini capelet that tied in the middle of the chest, creating a neat, nipped silhouette; or a creamy lace bib-front blouse worn with pants that had a subtle jodhpur flair to them.Lee's sophomore effort didn't pull in as many curiosity seekers as her runway debut did last season. Of course, showing on the morning after Versace unofficially closed the Milan season didn't help. But to hold on to the believers who did show up, she may want to temper her urge to overembellish and instead let her eye for cut and line speak for itself.
27 September 2007
It¿s not often that a new label emerges on the Milan runways, so it was with some enthusiasm that a small audience assembled for designer Mina Lee¿s debut Derercuny show. Until now, the small collection of prettily embellished clothes that glance at the trends rather than follow them blindly had been seen by appointment only. Chalk it up to first-timer jitters and inexperience, but some of the pieces (a gold jacquard matelassé skirt worn with a lamé blouse, and the bubble shapes) hinted perhaps too much at Prada and Marni. More discouraging, a pair of long tiered dresses in woven cashmere with an overly stiff drape just didn¿t do enough to flatter the models.Those issues aside, there were enough good things here to bring the crowd back again next time—from the sculptural black coats, including the requisite cape, to the elegant cocktail dresses with hand-constructed bows at the bust. The young company can be thankful, too, that it has been backed by Samsung. Judging by the A-list models booked, the expensive-looking fabrications, and the over-the-knee flat boots, Derercuny has pockets deep enough to give its talent time to work out the kinks.
20 February 2007