Elizabeth Kennedy (Q3007)

Elizabeth Kennedylaunched her eveningwear label in 2012 at the request of Bergdorf Goodman. Most designers dream of getting their clothes into the storied retailer, so when they come to you, you say yes. Kennedy started out doing custom couture, an in-demand category for BG’s well-heeled clientele, and she’s been growing her wholesale business over the past year. Fall ’17 marks her third time on the New York Fashion Week calendar, but she’s no rookie. Previously, Kennedy headed up Donna Karan Atelier, where she designed red-carpet gowns for celebrities, and also held senior roles at Isaac Mizrahi Couture and J. Mendel.If eveningwear seems like an old-school, stale category, Kennedy would be quick to agree. Her goal is to capture all the drama of traditional black-tie fare, but with simpler lines and a more graphic approach. Most of her gowns are quite sculptural, with a single ruffle cascading down the back or a peplum detail at the hip, and come in unlikely color combinations: burgundy and mint, raspberry and turquoise, cobalt and teal. When Kennedy does use traditional couture embellishments—namely feathers and sequins—they feel modern, not fusty. A few dresses came with thick swaths of rose gold or emerald sequins (go big or go home!), while the feathered gowns took their cues from exotic birds.Another thing that sets Kennedy apart in the evening market: She thinks about practicality. This collection included her first-ever separates, like a razor-sharp suit and a few evening tops paired with skirts. She explained how they could be mixed and matched with other evening pieces in your wardrobe, or even just a pair of jeans. “The younger crowd wants something a little less formal,” she said. The off-the-shoulder silhouettes may seem geared toward a younger woman, too, but Kennedy said they’ve been a hit with more mature customers who want to cover their arms without resorting to a dowdy long-sleeved dress or shawl.