Eytys (Q3085)
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Eytys is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Eytys |
Eytys is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Max Schiller’s current mood is reductionist and “locavore.” It’s present in the raw denim uniforms he created for Carsten Höller’s Brutalisten restaurant in Stockholm (which operates according to a manifesto that just one ingredient is used per dish), and in a more nuanced way in the spring Eytys collection. Tired of the pervasive influence of “perfect” AI imagery, he had the lookbook shot without fanfare on an iPhone in the office and unretouched. Many of the clothes have an easy, worn-in feeling, particularly the washed Echo jeans, which are three times the size of the label’ best selling Benz jeans with a raised waist and a long, exposed button placket that is at once rustic and cool. Other denim styles are more decorative with grommet details or an expressionist patchwork of metallic threads.The origin of the leather racing jackets and “joyride” tops is as surprising as it is unexpected. Schiller went down a rabbit hole researching the Paris-Dakar Rally after learning on The Crown that Margaret Thatcher’s son Mark went missing in the Saharan desert during the 1982 race. This resulted in the addition of warm colors into a collection that was otherwise rooted in the reality of Swedish life, which is partly defined by seemingly endless winters.“What I wanted to do this season—and for all the seasons to come, I think— is start in Stockholm and create from and for life in Stockholm. The fact that we’re supposed to do clothes for life in Ibiza, it’s not our lives. I wanted the collection to reflect how we live and how we dress in the months that are internationally known as spring/summer, but [aren’t] for us.” There’s a lot to unpack here, but it seems the brand has abandoned its fascination with “Eurotrash” (the logo on a popular Eytys T-shirt in favor of some Scandi shoegazing (and weather watching).Eytys debuted as a footwear brand, and Schiller made reference to that when he made a structured blazer out of a woven raffia usually used for shoes. This is an interesting, self-aware development that has the potential to yield results that play to Eytys’ strengths, which are leather and denim plus casual separates (see the pleated khakis and shirts). While Schiller has flirted with being a capital-F fashion label, at core the brand delivers stylish pieces that make up a cool, citified uniform. In a global world the local becomes fetishized, so it would seem that the more Stockholm-ish that Eytys makes its collections, the better.
There’s authenticity in a connection to place and lifestyle. If the shoe fits, wear it.
20 June 2024
Max Schiller’s current mood is reductionist and “locavore.” It’s present in the raw denim uniforms he created for Carsten Höller’s Brutalisten restaurant in Stockholm (which operates according to a manifesto that just one ingredient is used per dish), and in a more nuanced way in the spring Eytys collection. Tired of the pervasive influence of “perfect” AI imagery, he had the lookbook shot without fanfare on an iPhone in the office and unretouched. Many of the clothes have an easy, worn-in feeling, particularly the washed Echo jeans, which are three times the size of the label’ best selling Benz jeans with a raised waist and a long, exposed button placket that is at once rustic and cool. Other denim styles are more decorative with grommet details or an expressionist patchwork of metallic threads.The origin of the leather racing jackets and “joyride” tops is as surprising as it is unexpected. Schiller went down a rabbit hole researching the Paris-Dakar Rally after learning on The Crown that Margaret Thatcher’s son Mark went missing in the Saharan desert during the 1982 race. This resulted in the addition of warm colors into a collection that was otherwise rooted in the reality of Swedish life, which is partly defined by seemingly endless winters.“What I wanted to do this season—and for all the seasons to come, I think— is start in Stockholm and create from and for life in Stockholm. The fact that we’re supposed to do clothes for life in Ibiza, it’s not our lives. I wanted the collection to reflect how we live and how we dress in the months that are internationally known as spring/summer, but [aren’t] for us.” There’s a lot to unpack here, but it seems the brand has abandoned its fascination with “Eurotrash” (the logo on a popular Eytys T-shirt in favor of some Scandi shoegazing (and weather watching).Eytys debuted as a footwear brand, and Schiller made reference to that when he made a structured blazer out of a woven raffia usually used for shoes. This is an interesting, self-aware development that has the potential to yield results that play to Eytys’ strengths, which are leather and denim plus casual separates (see the pleated khakis and shirts). While Schiller has flirted with being a capital-F fashion label, at core the brand delivers stylish pieces that make up a cool, citified uniform. In a global world the local becomes fetishized, so it would seem that the more Stockholm-ish that Eytys makes its collections, the better.
There’s authenticity in a connection to place and lifestyle. If the shoe fits, wear it.
20 June 2024
Eytys’s spring 2023Eurotrash T-shirtgot a lot of mileage last year. A sort of wearable meme, it tapped into the same vein of kitschy, tabloid glamour that Balenciaga mined for its show in LA. For its fall 2024 collection, Max Schiller, Eytys’s millennial creative director, looked back to the late ’80s and early ’90s—fashion’s current sweet spot—and romanticized the Concorde and its high-flying clientele. Part of Schiller and team’s research involved looking at airport style from that time; they also went to a lot of effort to imagine the social mix on the commercial airplane that carried what today would be private jet clients. Back in the day, you could find supermodels and suits, rockstars and real estate honchos on board.As is the Eytys way, this translated into a high/low mix, only this time around with more polish and purpose. A hearty wool was used for tailored jackets and coats that gave them a luxe feeling, and the dense stretch knit really emphasized the body-con silhouette for women. Given the time period the team was looking at it’s no surprise thatWall Street’sGordon Gekko was a reference, yet in an ingenious way, the suit pants and creased track pants in the collection are closely related, and that work/play dichotomy is where fashion is at right now. Building on the flying theme, there’s a chic pull-through puffer wrap that Schiller calls the “travel pillow”; two pairs of fold-up shoes, the ballerina and the Eros sneaker; and travel T-shirts. On one tee that reads Stockholm the red circle of the Japanese flag also appears. It was inspired by the idea “of supermodels who would travel to three continents and six cities in one week, and in the end would have no idea where they are anymore. They’re so blasé.”The hero piece of the collection is a pair of trompe l’oeil stone-washed jeans to which metal studs of various sizes have been applied to create the look of patina. A related piece in the collection is the button-down with all-over clear sequins with business, not casual, vibes. Schiller had been thinking about the rise of yuppies, and the “era of decadence,” they ushered in, in relation to today.“I think we’ve been living in a decade of decadence now,” he continued, “but in contrast to now, the decadence of the ’80s looks and feels so much classier.” The creative director also appreciated the dressiness of that time.
“I think we have come to a stage where flying has been so democratized in many ways that you dress down to travel, and I remember a time when you used to dress up to travel. I missed that.” With options to accommodate either approach, this collection makes a smooth landing.
18 January 2024
Eytys’s spring 2023Eurotrash T-shirtgot a lot of mileage last year. A sort of wearable meme, it tapped into the same vein of kitschy, tabloid glamour that Balenciaga mined for its show in LA. For its fall 2024 collection, Max Schiller, Eytys’s millennial creative director, looked back to the late ’80s and early ’90s—fashion’s current sweet spot—and romanticized the Concorde and its high-flying clientele. Part of Schiller and team’s research involved looking at airport style from that time; they also went to a lot of effort to imagine the social mix on the commercial airplane that carried what today would be private jet clients. Back in the day, you could find supermodels and suits, rockstars and real estate honchos on board.As is the Eytys way, this translated into a high/low mix, only this time around with more polish and purpose. A hearty wool was used for tailored jackets and coats that gave them a luxe feeling, and the dense stretch knit really emphasized the body-con silhouette for women. Given the time period the team was looking at it’s no surprise thatWall Street’sGordon Gekko was a reference, yet in an ingenious way, the suit pants and creased track pants in the collection are closely related, and that work/play dichotomy is where fashion is at right now. Building on the flying theme, there’s a chic pull-through puffer wrap that Schiller calls the “travel pillow”; two pairs of fold-up shoes, the ballerina and the Eros sneaker; and travel T-shirts. On one tee that reads Stockholm the red circle of the Japanese flag also appears. It was inspired by the idea “of supermodels who would travel to three continents and six cities in one week, and in the end would have no idea where they are anymore. They’re so blasé.”The hero piece of the collection is a pair of trompe l’oeil stone-washed jeans to which metal studs of various sizes have been applied to create the look of patina. A related piece in the collection is the button-down with all-over clear sequins with business, not casual, vibes. Schiller had been thinking about the rise of yuppies, and the “era of decadence,” they ushered in, in relation to today.“I think we’ve been living in a decade of decadence now,” he continued, “but in contrast to now, the decadence of the ’80s looks and feels so much classier.” The creative director also appreciated the dressiness of that time.
“I think we have come to a stage where flying has been so democratized in many ways that you dress down to travel, and I remember a time when you used to dress up to travel. I missed that.” With options to accommodate either approach, this collection makes a smooth landing.
18 January 2024
The intention of Max Schiller’s latest Eytys collection is as clear as the sparkling waters of the Italian Riviera that inspired it. The designer relied not onWhite Lotus, however, but drew on his personal experiences. He’s spent a lot of time in Naples and on Capri where friends have been artist-intellectuals in residence at Villa San Michele, which was built by the Swedish doctor and writer Axel Munthe, and later donated to his native land.The new collection was created during the dark Scandi winter when Schiller was having Swede dreams of the Mediterranean. That’s worth noting because this is, essentially, a home-and-away collection. The sun-lit lookbook images were shot not in Italy but in Stockholm on friends of Eytys. (Yes, that’s Frida Gutsavsson taking a break from acting to strike a pose, and Edvin Endre from The Playlist.)The straightforward nature of the photographs really drives home the USP of the brand, which grew from footwear into fashion. The focus is on denim, in a context of what to wear with it. There are luxe leather motos and racing jackets with streamer-strung hardware, and a pleated mini in brown suede that seems to borrow from the garb of gladiators. Denim is offered in valentine red as well as light washes. Artfully distressing on jean jackets creates a deep fringe that updates a classic, while a more delicate fringe is used on some of the best bra tops around. Building on the denim story, indigo dye is used on lace, for men and women.The Italian theme surfaced in printed tees that look as if they have been sun-bleached and a striped shirt inspired by a beach umbrella, not to mention straw sandals and ballet flat-driving shoe slip-ons to wear to a seaside bar. This ease is carried over into draped skirts and generously cut khakis, shown low on the hip so that bikini straps can peek up over the waistband with a saucy Y2K wink.
22 June 2023
The intention of Max Schiller’s latest Eytys collection is as clear as the sparkling waters of the Italian Riviera that inspired it. The designer relied not onWhite Lotus, however, but drew on his personal experiences. He’s spent a lot of time in Naples and on Capri where friends have been artist-intellectuals in residence at Villa San Michele, which was built by the Swedish doctor and writer Axel Munthe, and later donated to his native land.The new collection was created during the dark Scandi winter when Schiller was having Swede dreams of the Mediterranean. That’s worth noting because this is, essentially, a home-and-away collection. The sun-lit lookbook images were shot not in Italy but in Stockholm on friends of Eytys. (Yes, that’s Frida Gutsavsson taking a break from acting to strike a pose, and Edvin Endre from The Playlist.)The straightforward nature of the photographs really drives home the USP of the brand, which grew from footwear into fashion. The focus is on denim, in a context of what to wear with it. There are luxe leather motos and racing jackets with streamer-strung hardware, and a pleated mini in brown suede that seems to borrow from the garb of gladiators. Denim is offered in valentine red as well as light washes. Artfully distressing on jean jackets creates a deep fringe that updates a classic, while a more delicate fringe is used on some of the best bra tops around. Building on the denim story, indigo dye is used on lace, for men and women.The Italian theme surfaced in printed tees that look as if they have been sun-bleached and a striped shirt inspired by a beach umbrella, not to mention straw sandals and ballet flat-driving shoe slip-ons to wear to a seaside bar. This ease is carried over into draped skirts and generously cut khakis, shown low on the hip so that bikini straps can peek up over the waistband with a saucy Y2K wink.
22 June 2023
There’s some feeling—though not a consensus—that the fall 2023 menswear collections are a bit more down to earth than in recent seasons, perhaps in anticipation of an economic downturn. Eytys co-founder Max Schiller is of the mind that a recession is likely, and believes that the idea of paring down can be more broadly applied to culture. “I think people are hungry for authenticity and realness,” he said on a call. “Whatever happens economically, with all these faked-up lives on Instagram and everything, I think people are fed up, they want reality now.”The brand delivers that via denim with a ’70s flair, which relates back to one of main inspirations for the collection,Rockers,the 1978 movie about Jamaican music, and the recent book detailing its making. (This also explains the print of two lovers blowing smoke into each other’s mouths.) Schiller ditched “experimental” washes this season in favor of “basic over-dyes, like something you you would find in a vintage store or something you could do yourself,” and he applied them in colors like tobacco, evergreen, and garnet; warm colors instead of the cold tones he usually prefers.Eytys was launched as a shoe brand, and Schiller says that a remodeled Clark-ish lace-up that’s been structured and given a hoof-like sole, “set the tone for the collection.” It also influenced some of the garment designs; in order to make the shoes and boots visible, some pant styles have zips that rise from the hem upward some inches. New and important in terms of the portion play Eytys pursued this season were the tailored pants that sat low on the hip and were paired, for example, with a bomber/trench midriff jacket.Denim seems to be the main thrust at Eytys these days, but jackets are not far behind. Nylon, distressed leather, and embossed vegan leather were worked into various classic shapes. The season’s hero pieces, made of etched leather featuring bathing nudes by the Swedish artist Anders Zorn, were also the most personal. The original artwork was made on Dalarö, the island in the Stockholm archipelago where Schiller’s family lived. He says his mother and grandmother bathed at the same spot as Zorn’s subjects did: “Seeing those etchings was pretty much like seeing like my childhood in a way.”
21 January 2023
There’s some feeling—though not a consensus—that the fall 2023 menswear collections are a bit more down to earth than in recent seasons, perhaps in anticipation of an economic downturn. Eytys co-founder Max Schiller is of the mind that a recession is likely, and believes that the idea of paring down can be more broadly applied to culture. “I think people are hungry for authenticity and realness,” he said on a call. “Whatever happens economically, with all these faked-up lives on Instagram and everything, I think people are fed up, they want reality now.”The brand delivers that via denim with a ’70s flair, which relates back to one of main inspirations for the collection,Rockers,the 1978 movie about Jamaican music, and the recent book detailing its making. (This also explains the print of two lovers blowing smoke into each other’s mouths.) Schiller ditched “experimental” washes this season in favor of “basic over-dyes, like something you you would find in a vintage store or something you could do yourself,” and he applied them in colors like tobacco, evergreen, and garnet; warm colors instead of the cold tones he usually prefers.Eytys was launched as a shoe brand, and Schiller says that a remodeled Clark-ish lace-up that’s been structured and given a hoof-like sole, “set the tone for the collection.” It also influenced some of the garment designs; in order to make the shoes and boots visible, some pant styles have zips that rise from the hem upward some inches. New and important in terms of the portion play Eytys pursued this season were the tailored pants that sat low on the hip and were paired, for example, with a bomber/trench midriff jacket.Denim seems to be the main thrust at Eytys these days, but jackets are not far behind. Nylon, distressed leather, and embossed vegan leather were worked into various classic shapes. The season’s hero pieces, made of etched leather featuring bathing nudes by the Swedish artist Anders Zorn, were also the most personal. The original artwork was made on Dalarö, the island in the Stockholm archipelago where Schiller’s family lived. He says his mother and grandmother bathed at the same spot as Zorn’s subjects did: “Seeing those etchings was pretty much like seeing like my childhood in a way.”
20 January 2023
Eytys’s spring 2023 collection borrows its name from Love and Poison, a biography, by David Barnett, of ’90s Britpop sensation Suede. Max Schiller was particularly interested in the acrimonious love triangle that developed among the band’s androgynous lead singer, Brett Anderson, Elastica’s Justine Frischman, and Suede’s nemesis, laddish Damon Albarn of Blur.The creative director leaned into his love and hate themes directly, screen printing roses on washed denims and dipping bleach-treated jeans in an inky black rubber coating. Male and female models wore clothes interchangeably, touching on the theme of androgyny. Laser-cut linen shirts, which will deliberately fray with washing, took on the aspects of Barnett’s gender-bending lacy shirts, while the Eytys take on the nylon bomber, an Albarn favorite, comes with sleek asymmetric zipper options.It wasn’t clear how motocross (trending elsewhere) fit into the Britpop theme, but it makes sense that a brand that started with footwear would offer leather pieces. One of the standouts in this offering is a pair of slightly oversized khakis with prep and workwear vibes. The collection’s starting point aside, they might be seen to evoke the All-American post-war theme that seems to be bubbling beneath the surface of several collections this season and in pop culture with the fetishization of the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley.
23 June 2022
Eytys’s spring 2023 collection borrows its name from Love and Poison, a biography, by David Barnett, of ’90s Britpop sensation Suede. Max Schiller was particularly interested in the acrimonious love triangle that developed among the band’s androgynous lead singer, Brett Anderson, Elastica’s Justine Frischman, and Suede’s nemesis, laddish Damon Albarn of Blur.The creative director leaned into his love and hate themes directly, screen printing roses on washed denims and dipping bleach-treated jeans in an inky black rubber coating. Male and female models wore clothes interchangeably, touching on the theme of androgyny. Laser-cut linen shirts, which will deliberately fray with washing, took on the aspects of Barnett’s gender-bending lacy shirts, while the Eytys take on the nylon bomber, an Albarn favorite, comes with sleek asymmetric zipper options.It wasn’t clear how motocross (trending elsewhere) fit into the Britpop theme, but it makes sense that a brand that started with footwear would offer leather pieces. One of the standouts in this offering is a pair of slightly oversized khakis with prep and workwear vibes. The collection’s starting point aside, they might be seen to evoke the All-American post-war theme that seems to be bubbling beneath the surface of several collections this season and in pop culture with the fetishization of the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Elvis Presley.
23 June 2022
Eytys slowly eased into fashion from footwear, starting with denim and graduating to ready-to-wear in fall 2019. Kick-starting the fall look book is a photograph of a model in a leather coat and a killer pair of cyber cowboy boots with an angular, pistol-like heel, which made me wonder what the relationship between shoes and garments is at this point in the brand’s trajectory. “It’s a shared mood board, basically,” said Max Schiller from Paris. “We’re working with the same ideas and the same themes…what I like to work with is to always let either one or the other be the hero. So when we allow ourselves to do very maximalist and eye-catching footwear, I like to tone down the ready-to-wear it’s paired with because that’s how I like to see people dress.”Using this criteria, it seems this was a strong shoe season. Overall, the fall collection is easygoing, with a strong focus on transforming classics through textural treatments. A rugby shirt moves beyond classic when fabricated in a mix of terry and knit. The striped Oxford shirt in Look 2 has been laser cut to give it texture. Lasers are also responsible for the dégradé on the jeans in 4, eliminating the need for washes. The hero piece in the denim category is an indigo-free pair of pants printed with an ocean-scape.Schiller believes that variety is the spice that brings Eytys’s fashion to life. “I’m always trying to find things that are completely disconnected; when putting them together, that’s when I think it becomes interesting,” he said. This can cause a bit of whiplash as the viewer clicks from athletic motocross tops to pinstripes and onto cropped knitwear and tie-dye without the benefit of the accompanying mood board or references. Schiller says that lately he’s been exploring how to incorporate “several ideas within the same garment” (those motocross pieces are composed of layers, each with different artworks that “bleed through”). That’s something he’s been doing with footwear all along—take another look at those boots. If the shoe fits…
2 March 2022
Two years ago, after cornering the millennial/Gen-Z market with too-cool-for-school shoes, Eytys launched its first denim-led ready-to-wear collection. The brand’s clubby, youthful vibe carried over to clothes which were designed, explains brand founder Max Schiller, with his young alter ego in mind. It was an approach, he says, that allowed him to “stick in an age where I don’t belong anymore.”The pandemic allowed Schiller time for sole/soul searching, and he sees the new lineup as a kind of reset that brings the brand to a more personal place relating to his real life. “I’d rather be having a glass of wine with my wife at home, than going out clubbing,” he says, adding that he wants the brand to grow with him.Old is a relative concept. Schiller is a child of the 1980s (Eytys, get it?), who says that he’s driven by nostalgia for the days of his young adulthood, which coincide with the late 1990s and aughts, the latter being fashion’s current infatuation. Nods to the decade are most evident in the sheer bedazzled, lace-trimmed womenswear; more sophisticated and interesting was a cut-out ribbed knit dress.Schiller’s reset is as much, or more, about approach as it is about aesthetics. Going forward, he wants to refine and evolve core looks rather than try to reinvent the wheel every six months, which might explain why the collection is so focused on denim, the brand’s first fashion category. Fall’s marble tie-dye jeans are eye-catching, as are a pair that feature twinkling ombré studding. The designer says that he’s also embraced a “clashing contrasts” process when designing, imagining a young David Beckham in one of Fran Lebowitz’s blazers, for example.In the end, the “rebranding” Schiller speaks of is more conceptual/internal than outward facing. The Eytys’ existing customer base won’t feel betrayed; wearing a blazer doesn’t mean you won’t get carded. In fact, there’s a bit of a Delia’s catalog vibe to the styling of the collection, but no grandpa clothes are in evidence.The designer says look three is representative of the season, in its bringing together of two worlds; one “harder, tougher,” represented by the camo pants, and thick sandals with angled heels; and the other preppy 2.0, represented by the blazer and an Oxford shirt, with stripes that fade to white at the hem, the “twist” that Schiller is after.
This collection might not deliver the kick one gets from spirits or champagne, but like a glass of your favorite wine, it’s familiar and goes down easily.
27 September 2021
Two years ago, after cornering the millennial/Gen-Z market with too-cool-for-school shoes, Eytys launched its first denim-led ready-to-wear collection. The brand’s clubby, youthful vibe carried over to clothes which were designed, explains brand founder Max Schiller, with his young alter ego in mind. It was an approach, he says, that allowed him to “stick in an age where I don’t belong anymore.”The pandemic allowed Schiller time for sole/soul searching, and he sees the new lineup as a kind of reset that brings the brand to a more personal place relating to his real life. “I’d rather be having a glass of wine with my wife at home, than going out clubbing,” he says, adding that he wants the brand to grow with him.Old is a relative concept. Schiller is a child of the 1980s (Eytys, get it?), who says that he’s driven by nostalgia for the days of his young adulthood, which coincide with the late 1990s and aughts, the latter being fashion’s current infatuation. Nods to the decade are most evident in the sheer bedazzled, lace-trimmed womenswear; more sophisticated and interesting was a cut-out ribbed knit dress.Schiller’s reset is as much, or more, about approach as it is about aesthetics. Going forward, he wants to refine and evolve core looks rather than try to reinvent the wheel every six months, which might explain why the collection is so focused on denim, the brand’s first fashion category. Fall’s marble tie-dye jeans are eye-catching, as are a pair that feature twinkling ombré studding. The designer says that he’s also embraced a “clashing contrasts” process when designing, imagining a young David Beckham in one of Fran Lebowitz’s blazers, for example.In the end, the “rebranding” Schiller speaks of is more conceptual/internal than outward facing. The Eytys’ existing customer base won’t feel betrayed; wearing a blazer doesn’t mean you won’t get carded. In fact, there’s a bit of a Delia’s catalog vibe to the styling of the collection, but no grandpa clothes are in evidence.The designer says look three is representative of the season, in its bringing together of two worlds; one “harder, tougher,” represented by the camo pants, and thick sandals with angled heels; and the other preppy 2.0, represented by the blazer and an Oxford shirt, with stripes that fade to white at the hem, the “twist” that Schiller is after.
This collection might not deliver the kick one gets from spirits or champagne, but like a glass of your favorite wine, it’s familiar and goes down easily.
27 September 2021
Creative director Max Schiller latched onto the season’s throwback vibe by channeling a childhood idol: Michael Jordan. “It’s hard not to be inspired by him,” the designer pointed out. Scottie Pippen made the cut too. A collection called “Off-Court Decadence” headlined basketball shoes and oversized tailoring, with nods to the late photographer Lars Tunbjörk (“he was like a Swedish Martin Parr,” Schiller explained) and the tennis star Anna Kournikova, for her off-duty style circa 2001—reinterpreted here in a none-too-subtle scoop-neck cardigan dress in pink velvet crochet and a Nascar-esque racing jacket.Put them all together and you get a mingling of high lapels, boss shoulders, and elongated hemlines; double-breasted jackets with jeans and “millennial-futuristic” sneakers; plus loose bombers with detachable collars. Women’s options included a slim black greatcoat, a Glen check jacket and miniskirt with a label in the shape of a pin, and “aerodynamic” boots with a forward-slanting heel. Now in its third iteration, that Schuppan race-car-inspired design is doing well with men too, the designer said. In its notes, the brand described the mood as “an empowered 9-to-5 silhouette with a paparazzi-friendly attitude to match.” To this reporter, it evoked the heyday ofMen in Black.Special treatments and finishes were also a focus. A heat-pressed, creased viscose with a crocodile print transformed from tiny on the hanger to abstract on the body. Denims were finished with shiny or pearlescent coatings, and perhaps paired with a gradient Norwegian fisherman knit that could be worn right side or inside out. A stylizedEappeared subtly on that pink dress, and more overtly on a men’s black mesh tank. On one sweatshirt, a pony toy photographed in negative was a side-eye to the MTV seriesJackass. Throwback, maybe, but seen through different, more optimistic eyes. In that vein, the brand has decided to throw its energy into reviving the appeal of print: It has just released a revival ofEY! Magateenin collaboration with the Spanish editor and publisher Luis Venegas. “It’s really good for my attention span to sit down and read,” offered Schiller. “The phone is too quick to stick.”
28 January 2021
Creative director Max Schiller latched onto the season’s throwback vibe by channeling a childhood idol: Michael Jordan. “It’s hard not to be inspired by him,” the designer pointed out. Scottie Pippen made the cut too. A collection called “Off-Court Decadence” headlined basketball shoes and oversized tailoring, with nods to the late photographer Lars Tunbjörk (“he was like a Swedish Martin Parr,” Schiller explained) and the tennis star Anna Kournikova, for her off-duty style circa 2001—reinterpreted here in a none-too-subtle scoop-neck cardigan dress in pink velvet crochet and a Nascar-esque racing jacket.Put them all together and you get a mingling of high lapels, boss shoulders, and elongated hemlines; double-breasted jackets with jeans and “millennial-futuristic” sneakers; plus loose bombers with detachable collars. Women’s options included a slim black greatcoat, a Glen check jacket and miniskirt with a label in the shape of a pin, and “aerodynamic” boots with a forward-slanting heel. Now in its third iteration, that Schuppan race-car-inspired design is doing well with men too, the designer said. In its notes, the brand described the mood as “an empowered 9-to-5 silhouette with a paparazzi-friendly attitude to match.” To this reporter, it evoked the heyday ofMen in Black.Special treatments and finishes were also a focus. A heat-pressed, creased viscose with a crocodile print transformed from tiny on the hanger to abstract on the body. Denims were finished with shiny or pearlescent coatings, and perhaps paired with a gradient Norwegian fisherman knit that could be worn right side or inside out. A stylizedEappeared subtly on that pink dress, and more overtly on a men’s black mesh tank. On one sweatshirt, a pony toy photographed in negative was a side-eye to the MTV seriesJackass. Throwback, maybe, but seen through different, more optimistic eyes. In that vein, the brand has decided to throw its energy into reviving the appeal of print: It has just released a revival ofEY! Magateenin collaboration with the Spanish editor and publisher Luis Venegas. “It’s really good for my attention span to sit down and read,” offered Schiller. “The phone is too quick to stick.”
28 January 2021
On March 16, Eytys opened a new store in Stockholm. Fast-forward three months, and the brand is waiting to see what happens next. Sweden may be a case study, but Max Schiller, Jonathan Hirschfeld, and their team have been living by the same restrictions as the rest of the world.Like so many others, Schiller had been wishing he could slow down—although obviously not like this. With support from the Swedish government, Eytys has been honing its tactics, trimming costs, reconsidering partnerships, and reallocating resources for future growth. Big plans have been dashed, but they’re gamely trying on humble for size.Eytys may be keeping things tight with just 22 looks, but a certain cheekiness factor remains intact. The collection notes ponder what might happen when retro-leaning artificial denim washes meet the Marlboro man. During a Zoom showroom presentation, a glimpse of the mood board revealed Winona Ryder and Cindy Crawford circa 1990, a heyday for tank tops, aviators, and distressed jeans.“Paninaro subculture meets badass Italian bling,” is how Schiller described it. In other words: In this Swedish riff on ’80s-era Euro-preps, minimalism meets Cavalli-esque maximalism and is laid at the feet of Gen-Z. One T-shirt laid down that manifesto on a giantZ. “We like to poke fun at ourselves,” Schiller noted, lest anyone miss the joke.One of the season’s salient trends up and down the price scale involves pairing tailored, oversized jackets with distressed denim. Eytys covered that base with a weathered leather blazer (here layered under a biker vest) and an ultra-light cashmere trench. The new Solstice high-waisted jean—their slimmest style ever—comes with a pearlized finish. Elsewhere, what looked like coated denim was, in fact, fluid Tencel. Faded denim may peel back in a laser-engraved serpentine motif inspired by a vintage shirt, and a snake-print crops up in camouflage colors. Schiller says he’s ophidiophobic, so this exercise was about facing the fear and doing it anyway. Anyone who can’t quite square with the silver cobra-head belt can always just fall back on the lavender snakeskin boots with a sleek, chunky heel.Obviously, any virtual showroom falls short when it comes to detecting specialness of texture and detail, for example Velcro-fastened slides in white suede, or witty pull tabs. But a few pieces—like the revisited boxer shorts, a fringed bouclé dress, a slingback with a terraced heel and Western buckle—spoke for themselves.
Eytys is newly collaborating with the erstwhile British heritage brand Henri Lloyd—now under Swedish management—and reworking the Consort sailing jacket from 1965. Those and other utilitarian pieces in cloudy hues looked like they could weather the storm. Refining classics for a contemporary context is the label’sraison d’etre, the business duo said. “We are tackling our frustrations and trying to make some good out of it,” Hirschfeld offered. In that, Eytys is in good company.
25 June 2020
On March 16, Eytys opened a new store in Stockholm. Fast-forward three months, and the brand is waiting to see what happens next. Sweden may be a case study, but Max Schiller, Jonathan Hirschfeld, and their team have been living by the same restrictions as the rest of the world.Like so many others, Schiller had been wishing he could slow down—although obviously not like this. With support from the Swedish government, Eytys has been honing its tactics, trimming costs, reconsidering partnerships, and reallocating resources for future growth. Big plans have been dashed, but they’re gamely trying on humble for size.Eytys may be keeping things tight with just 22 looks, but a certain cheekiness factor remains intact. The collection notes ponder what might happen when retro-leaning artificial denim washes meet the Marlboro man. During a Zoom showroom presentation, a glimpse of the mood board revealed Winona Ryder and Cindy Crawford circa 1990, a heyday for tank tops, aviators, and distressed jeans.“Paninaro subculture meets badass Italian bling,” is how Schiller described it. In other words: In this Swedish riff on ’80s-era Euro-preps, minimalism meets Cavalli-esque maximalism and is laid at the feet of Gen-Z. One T-shirt laid down that manifesto on a giantZ. “We like to poke fun at ourselves,” Schiller noted, lest anyone miss the joke.One of the season’s salient trends up and down the price scale involves pairing tailored, oversized jackets with distressed denim. Eytys covered that base with a weathered leather blazer (here layered under a biker vest) and an ultra-light cashmere trench. The new Solstice high-waisted jean—their slimmest style ever—comes with a pearlized finish. Elsewhere, what looked like coated denim was, in fact, fluid Tencel. Faded denim may peel back in a laser-engraved serpentine motif inspired by a vintage shirt, and a snake-print crops up in camouflage colors. Schiller says he’s ophidiophobic, so this exercise was about facing the fear and doing it anyway. Anyone who can’t quite square with the silver cobra-head belt can always just fall back on the lavender snakeskin boots with a sleek, chunky heel.Obviously, any virtual showroom falls short when it comes to detecting specialness of texture and detail, for example Velcro-fastened slides in white suede, or witty pull tabs. But a few pieces—like the revisited boxer shorts, a fringed bouclé dress, a slingback with a terraced heel and Western buckle—spoke for themselves.
Eytys is newly collaborating with the erstwhile British heritage brand Henri Lloyd—now under Swedish management—and reworking the Consort sailing jacket from 1965. Those and other utilitarian pieces in cloudy hues looked like they could weather the storm. Refining classics for a contemporary context is the label’sraison d’etre, the business duo said. “We are tackling our frustrations and trying to make some good out of it,” Hirschfeld offered. In that, Eytys is in good company.
25 June 2020
By his own admission, Eytys creative director Max Schiller has the luxury of pretty much designing what he feels like at a given moment, without having to put it into context. That taste for experimentation applies to his personal life, too: Having become a father last year, he wanted to rock out a bit more so he dyed his hair turquoise at a salon in Saigon (it didn’t work out so well). On the day we meet, he was sporting gunmetal nail polish (it looked cool).Eytys tends to attract a young, like-minded consumer. “People discover us and want to explore the universe directly through us,” offered the brand’s co-founder, Jonathan Hirschfeld.This fall, Schiller is offering them a handful of hybrid pieces he described as “erasing the line between utopia and dystopia.” That’s proving a recurring theme here and he translated it, variously, into a striped bomber/puffer/biker jacket, fluid trousers done in lining material, and prints inspired by the Jamiroquai classic “Virtual Insanity” which, let’s face it, predates a good part of the brand’s base. So, too, does the work of Japanese artist Yosuke Onishi, whose hyper-realistic illustrations are reproduced on t-shirts. Those will probably move fast. A faux-vintage jacket in the classic Barbour style nodded to social signifiers favored by old-money aristocrats. Clever details included zip pulls inspired by vintage hotel keychains that bore the name Hotel Fantasia and a slogan cribbed from another rock classic about checking out anytime you like. Meanwhile, Eytys is known above all for its shoes and the spiky new Fugu (as in the venomous blowfish) style is something their follows will probably clamor to check out, too.
18 January 2020
By his own admission, Eytys creative director Max Schiller has the luxury of pretty much designing what he feels like at a given moment, without having to put it into context. That taste for experimentation applies to his personal life, too: Having become a father last year, he wanted to rock out a bit more so he dyed his hair turquoise at a salon in Saigon (it didn’t work out so well). On the day we meet, he was sporting gunmetal nail polish (it looked cool).Eytys tends to attract a young, like-minded consumer. “People discover us and want to explore the universe directly through us,” offered the brand’s co-founder, Jonathan Hirschfeld.This fall, Schiller is offering them a handful of hybrid pieces he described as “erasing the line between utopia and dystopia.” That’s proving a recurring theme here and he translated it, variously, into a striped bomber/puffer/biker jacket, fluid trousers done in lining material, and prints inspired by the Jamiroquai classic “Virtual Insanity” which, let’s face it, predates a good part of the brand’s base. So, too, does the work of Japanese artist Yosuke Onishi, whose hyper-realistic illustrations are reproduced on t-shirts. Those will probably move fast. A faux-vintage jacket in the classic Barbour style nodded to social signifiers favored by old-money aristocrats. Clever details included zip pulls inspired by vintage hotel keychains that bore the name Hotel Fantasia and a slogan cribbed from another rock classic about checking out anytime you like. Meanwhile, Eytys is known above all for its shoes and the spiky new Fugu (as in the venomous blowfish) style is something their follows will probably clamor to check out, too.
17 January 2020
Having built a solid foundation on shoes and jeans and dabbled in collaborations with the likes of H&M and others, cult Swedish brand Eytys is amping up its act. Its first stop was a Paris debut, with a freestyle cocktail presentation and live performance by Swedish rapper Jonatan Leandoer127 (aka Yung Lean).“I think that going from shoes to jeans and a full look is putting the brand in a context it deserves,” cofounder Jonathan Hirschfeld shouted over the din. “It’s a global thing.” A hip throng milled around, sipping Swedish gin cocktails, and Swedish star Robyn was spotted slipping through the crowd toward the runway space.The inspiration for Eytys’s second full-fledged collection came straight from the dance floor—specifically, a Beirut nightclub where cofounder and creative director Max Schiller had his bachelor party. “It was filled with really fancy women wearing high fashion, but there was one girl who was wearing baggy jeans, an army jacket, and hiking boots,” he recalled. “I thought, That’s the kind of carefree girl I’m interested in. I think androgyny and confidence are just really sexy.”Style-wise, Schiller has an obsession with the pre-Internet, MTV-fueled era. Dubbed Club Omnivore, this collection was billed as “all dressed down with everywhere to go” for the kind of kids who might wake up late; throw on a pair of boxer-style shorts and top them with the new ultrabaggy, five-pocket jeans in lining fabrics; don a varsity top and Space Cowboy stompers; and rock until dawn (the label’s base will thrill to the biker jacket with white accents and bottle green sleeve gussets). If the Eytys woman is headed to the city, she might top those jeans with a tailored white jacket. A collaboration with men’s suiting brand Tiger of Sweden offered up ’80s-inspired tailoring as a point of contrast. Filling out the accessories line was a jewelry collaboration with Brooklyn designer Martine Ali, as well as new signature eyewear.
23 June 2019
Having built a solid foundation on shoes and jeans and dabbled in collaborations with the likes of H&M and others, cult Swedish brand Eytys is amping up its act. Its first stop was a Paris debut, with a freestyle cocktail presentation and live performance by Swedish rapper Jonatan Leandoer127 (aka Yung Lean).“I think that going from shoes to jeans and a full look is putting the brand in a context it deserves,” cofounder Jonathan Hirschfeld shouted over the din. “It’s a global thing.” A hip throng milled around, sipping Swedish gin cocktails, and Swedish star Robyn was spotted slipping through the crowd toward the runway space.The inspiration for Eytys’s second full-fledged collection came straight from the dance floor—specifically, a Beirut nightclub where cofounder and creative director Max Schiller had his bachelor party. “It was filled with really fancy women wearing high fashion, but there was one girl who was wearing baggy jeans, an army jacket, and hiking boots,” he recalled. “I thought, That’s the kind of carefree girl I’m interested in. I think androgyny and confidence are just really sexy.”Style-wise, Schiller has an obsession with the pre-Internet, MTV-fueled era. Dubbed Club Omnivore, this collection was billed as “all dressed down with everywhere to go” for the kind of kids who might wake up late; throw on a pair of boxer-style shorts and top them with the new ultrabaggy, five-pocket jeans in lining fabrics; don a varsity top and Space Cowboy stompers; and rock until dawn (the label’s base will thrill to the biker jacket with white accents and bottle green sleeve gussets). If the Eytys woman is headed to the city, she might top those jeans with a tailored white jacket. A collaboration with men’s suiting brand Tiger of Sweden offered up ’80s-inspired tailoring as a point of contrast. Filling out the accessories line was a jewelry collaboration with Brooklyn designer Martine Ali, as well as new signature eyewear.
23 June 2019
Eytys is a Stockholm-based brand that has, for years, made footwear (and more recently, denim). Fall will see the introduction of its first full ready-to-wear line.In describing his unisex roster, Max Schiller employed the wordsurban,cowboy,fisherman, andraveoften—and while that mix might sound implausible, he pulled off and manifested the cues with slick aplomb. Jackets were given an “inflatable” effect—puffers with extra puff, essentially. (They also featured plastic nozzles, mimicking air valves on life vests or pool toys.) Denim—which Eytys has, as mentioned, some practice with—looked rave ready (Schiller had washed it in a certain way and then shellacked it—he said they’d “wear in and get scuffed up the way a regular pair of jeans would”). Another eye-catching idea was a floor-length, slung-low-on-the-hip skirt, which was styled on both men and women. All of the above, plus a collaboration on a few outerwear pieces with the ’80s-era designer Michiko Koshino, gelled solidly for a first effort.Also, check out the central shoe, a chunky, vaguely all-terrain sneaker called the Halo. Where did that name come from? “The Beyoncé song,” said Schiller.
18 January 2019