J Koo (Q3155)

Unlike many Seoul Fashion Week shows, J Koo has never relied on flash or theatrical tricks. Designers Jinwoo Choi and Yeonjoo Koo have always kept things low-key, choosing instead to concentrate on the steady development of their label. It is a pleasure to see two Korean designers who are indeed focused on the clothes, not the celebrity circus around them. Spring 2018 felt like a breakthrough moment, as they have refined their aesthetic and gone in a more grown-up direction.“Looking at this season and last season, we wanted to continue our brand story,” Choi said backstage. “Tailoring, femininity, and street culture: How we can take these three things and create something new?” They went with a more limited palette (black, white, pale gray, and pink) in order to experiment with a wider range of textures and silhouettes. The fabrics received a lift via a series of bias-cut dresses, draped in lace and a nice crepe de Chine (a first for J Koo, which added weight). The dresses were also adjustable—a length of elastic drawstring run through the seams let one raise and lower the hem, Choi explained, much like a nylon sports hood.They fell beautifully across the body, and the way they moved down the runway—tiers of ruffles bouncing, strings swinging off an eyelet dress—was quite lovely. To counter the romance, Choi and Koo chose to layer lace hooded tops under most of the clothes, a move that recalled a sporty Alexander McQueen. It worked, though the collection’s standouts—a pinstripe apron shirtdress and a four-part group of asymmetric draped crepe pieces, starting with a polo shirt and ending with a striking three-piece set—needed no extra embellishment.