James Coviello (Q3164)
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James Coviello is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | James Coviello |
James Coviello is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Although milliner-turned-designer James Coviello moved his show to the tents this season, he remained true to his romantic, vintage-y aesthetic. Inspired by a trip to Switzerland, the designer showed his "1920s Alpine/Edwardian shooting party" collection to a front row that included longtime friend Anna Sui as well as his affenpinscher, Francis.True to form, Coviello built his presentation around knitwear, showcasing handcraft rather than trends and emphasizing the personal, small-scale nature of the label. Preppy, colorful sweaters, embellished with hearts and rhinestone-eyed reindeers, had a shrunk-in-the-washer fit and were paired with cargo pants in Pendleton wool plaids, printed velvets and denim, augmented with bondage-like straps. Femininity and sportiness played off each other in plaid suits with flouncy skirts, while floaty chiffon and lace dresses exuded old-time charm. A series of vests and jackets with folkloric embroidery displayed the handiwork for which Coviello is known, while the accessories—pointy lace-up and L.L. Bean boots—completed the casual, woodsy mood set by the antler chandeliers hung over the runway.
9 February 2003
Best known as the man behind Anna Sui's distinctive knits, James Coviello has been slowly building up his own sportswear line over the last two years. His spring collection was conclusive proof that he has an eye—and a wit—all his own.Like many designers of his generation, Coviello likes to work a bit of retro irony into his collection, but he kept it from being cloying by adding just a touch of tough street edge. He took spring's ubiquitous sherbet colors and pushed them just a few hues deeper, resulting in unusual, interesting combinations: mauve and yellow, chartreuse and raspberry, lime and nude tones. A Fair Isle sweater got reworked as a ballet-neck tank top, paired with a skinny skirt; a full-skirted, floral-print dress was saved from becoming saccharine by the addition of a goofy, oversize bow and a very genteel black leather dog collar at the throat. Coviello's basics—pencil skirts, loose jackets and slim trousers—played smart second fiddle to lovely crocheted tops and snappy striped cardigans.
16 September 2002