Jeffrey Chow (Q3188)
Jump to navigation
Jump to search
Jeffrey Chow is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Jeffrey Chow |
Jeffrey Chow is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
"Every season, I start with tons of DVDs," explained Jeffrey Chow backstage before his show. At the end of his cinematic inspiration hunt for fall, what remained were Visconti'sThe Leopardand Fassbinder'sThe Marriage of Maria Braun. Those classics translated into a quietly glamorous collection of embellished feminine pieces—a copper taffeta corset with tarnished sequins, say—juxtaposed with sturdy, more masculine ones, such as a deceptively plain black tunic that buttoned up the back.The wide-leg pants, bow-front dresses, and fur chubbies of the forties have made appearances on many a runway this week, but where other designers veered into retro territory, Chow kept his day and evening looks from seeming overdone. Five-ply camel hair hand-knit sweaters, duchesse satin cocktail dresses veiled in tulle and point d'esprit, and must-have little black coats exuded sedate luxury. With the exception of a velvet suit with jet beading that leaned a bit too toreador, this burgeoning talent seems firmly in control of his rising star.
9 February 2005
Although his program notes claimed inspiration from Africa, Jeffrey Chow's spring show—with cropped cardigans worn over Bermuda shorts, Empire-line coats, and high-waist pencil skirts—seemed equally indebted to a preppy but slightly boho coed, circa 1968. Sometimes, those influences gelled beautifully, as in the ivory strapless silk dress with African-inspired embroidery, worn with a matching collar (perfect for the anthropology department's spring fling!). But more often, Chow seemed content simply to tweak classics like tuxedo shirts, tailored trousers, and flowing dresses made from chiffon and jersey.Chow has an imaginative sense of color and fabric that can lead to some inspired results. White cotton eyelet, made into a knee-length skirt or paired with a floaty, pleated, Swarovski-crystal-embroidered black skirt, took on a fresh smartness, while his black-and-white organza bubble dress gave new life to an old cliché. But raw silk—not one of fashion's sexier fabrics to begin with—doesn't exactly win prizes when it's dyed tricky colors like teal, coral, and scarlet. If Chow can steer clear of such clunkers, he won't need to go so far afield for inspiration.
8 September 2004
The second time out is always harder than the debut; there’s more attention, higher expectations, greater pressure to impress. In a short and sweet fall collection, Jeffrey Chow (one of this year’s Ecco Domani winners) managed to avoid most of the sophomore pitfalls, while further establishing his distinctive take on luxe sportswear.Chow showed lots of classic tailoring in traditional fabrics: loose-fitting tweed jackets, gathered at the back into a high-waisted ruffle; flannel trousers cut both wide and skinny, with a slightly raised waist; slim herringbone pencil skirts. His tunic-length hand-knit cabled sweaters, worn over slim bronze pants or some of his soft dresses, mixed well with the boho-preppy feeling that’s running through many of the young-designer shows this week. And his structured satin dresses, paired with fur jackets and capes, had the charm of a debutante’s ball. Chow spent a bit too much time fussing with some of his jackets—inserting various fabrics in the sleeves or adding extraneous embroidery—but overall he showed long-term potential. This is a young designer to watch.
11 February 2004