Lucien Pellat Finet (Q3225)
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Lucien Pellat Finet is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Lucien Pellat Finet |
Lucien Pellat Finet is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
“That’s a new marijuana leaf,” said Lucien Pellat-Finet this morning, pointing to an abstract cannabis frond—scarlet red intarsia against warm black cashmere. “I did the brushstrokes.”A sense of newness filled the room, and not just because of the latest collection; Pellat-Finet moved his boutique off of Rue Saint-Honoré to Rue d’Aboukir in September, and the space was buzzing with industry types and shoppers. Celebrating the relocation, the designer took one of its decadent stairways, bright pink and leopard-carpeted, and worked it into a top.Pellat-Finet has always been about novelty and kitsch, peddled in the higher rungs of luxury. You know the drill: cashmere sweaters with skulls and pot leaves that cost thousands of euros. His Fall collection, inspired by the “British upper class”—namely the flamboyance of the 7th Marquess of Bath, Alexander Thynn—brought in an Anglo fascination. This was evinced in a cashmere two-tone peacoat over a regatta-stripe silk top and a jacket with the Union Jack, transmogrified. Novelty and kitsch, again, just with a glance to the island across the channel.What was added: lightweight sneakers, for men and women, and a T-shirt capsule featuring the work of calligrapher Nicolas Ouchenir. Soft and graphic, the tees will make for a nice contribution to the archive.
18 January 2018
Surf-as-theme has really taken hold this season, which isn’t by any means groundbreaking—it’s Spring/Summer, after all—but it feels extra concentrated. We caught waves in Milan and today, on the first catwalk of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, the swell continued at Lucien Pellat-Finet.Showing men’s and women’s together, Pellat-Finet’s presentation was markedly improved over last season’s, featuring a more cohesive mix of Venice Beach–inflected, highlighter-toned pieces that his clientele should go for. For men, chintzy velour speedos, neon short-shorts, cashmere muscle tanks (unexpectedly satisfying), and a luxe cashmere wrap of the Brazilian flag rounded out the concept. For women, there were hoodies and miniskirts. For both sexes, Hawaiian-print shirts, mostly in Day-Glo palettes, with twisted versions of Pellat-Finet’s signature marijuana leaf logo. And lastly, there was a possibly Supreme-snubbing motif that read “Sucks” in a white, Futura-esque font against a red rectangular background. This seemed unnecessary. In conclusion: SoCal-centric all around, but not without the quirky luxe-merch DNA of its founder. “It’s like a beach, but on the Champs-Élysées,” said Pellat-Finet.
21 June 2017
In Lucien Pellat-Finet’s Fall 2017 press notes, one line especially stood out: “[The designer] sketches a picture of a man and a woman with a studied nonchalance, two night birds at daybreak walking the long avenues of Los Angeles in the 1990s.”That prose conjured a strong image, yet the projection wasn’t totally fulfilled at Pellat-Finet’s first-ever runway show (he’s been in business 23 years). On the winning side for men were easy hoodies and basketball shorts (particularly gray and tan options, trimmed with the designer’s leitmotifs of skulls and marijuana leaves); for women, a similarly easy-grungy blend, like a varsity blue sweatshirt with a white mini tennis skirt. Both genders wore T-shirts with outlined cannabis fronds, the wordPharmacieprinted above them. They looked right for Pellat-Finet.Otherwise, this show lacked cohesiveness and convincing vision. There were poorly-fitting pajama pants and one-off interjections like a globe-printed bomber jacket, a violet tie-dyed turtleneck, and a puzzling collaboration with the filmDespicable Me 3, which comes out this summer. Those (frankly irksome) little Minions found themselves on sweaters. Someone must love them, though, if the franchise is releasing another sequel—they should be able to find homes.
19 January 2017