Marcel Ostertag (Q3285)

Marcel Ostertag is one of the biggest names on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin calendar, but he’s looking to break into other markets—including America. Last season, he showed his Spring ’17 collection in both Berlin and New York, and it was probably the first time many New York editors had seen his clothes. Ostertag is into ruffles, fancy fabrics, and digital prints, sometimes mixed together; at times, it feels a little over-the-top, but his European clients can’t seem to get enough. Ostertag’s Fall ’17 show, titled Revolution, marked his brand’s 10th anniversary and was packed to the gills.Ostertag was thinking about feminism—a message you couldn’t miss, thanks to a soundtrack layered with Emma Watson’s smart and oft-referenced UN speech from 2014. “Why has the word [feminist] become such an uncomfortable one?” she asked as models marched by in shimmering tiered dresses and vaguely Western ruffled trousers. “I am from Britain, and I think it is right I am paid the same as my male counterparts. I think it is right that I should be able to make decisions about my own body. I think it is right that women be involved on my behalf in the policies and decision-making that will affect my life. I think it is right that socially, I am afforded the same respect as men.” In case anyone in the audience forgot about Donald Trump’s looming inauguration, this was a timely reminder.That said, how did feminism come through in the clothes? Technically, there isn’t a “feminist” look—the very point of it is to wear what you want, how you want. Ostertag served up lots of options for his women, from silky printed jumpsuits to micro-miniskirts. Some of the looks felt over-styled and a little gratuitous, but the models in flat, thick-soled boots and comfy knit dresses appeared to be facing 2017 head-on—fresh-faced, hair pushed back, unencumbered.