Murral (Q3461)

Ayumi Sekiguchi and Yusuke Muramatsu’s Spring creations for Murral were heavy on the needlework, with more than half of the looks stitched with colorful florals. Dubbed “Sonata,” the collection drew inspiration from the form of its musical namesake with a three-act structure united by recurring motifs—a move that proved appealing yet somewhat monotonous. The beauty of the complex patterns was undeniable, but the concept of transparent fabrics adorned with tiny blooms began to lose its power after 10 looks featuring the idea. The strongest variations were those with unexpected add-ons, like delicate hoods and ruffled tulle necklines with a Victorian feel.Keeping the textiles at the forefront, Sekiguchi and Muramatsu transitioned into a section of outerwear with boudoir undertones, from a bathrobe-esque belted coat to sheer trenches with ombré fabric in shades of moss and cream. Silky separates filled the collection’s final segment: Pleats and cold-shoulder blouses delivered jewel tones that reflected in the mirror shards glued to models’ faces. The billowing blue top and maxi skirt on Miki Ehara may have concluded the show, but the magenta shirtdress on newcomer Alina B. three looks earlier provided the kind of welcome thematic departure the collection could have used more of.