Namacheko (Q3468)
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Namacheko is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Namacheko |
Namacheko is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Dilan Lurr watched the Andrei Tarkovsky filmSolarisas he was pulling his Spring collection together, and that got him thinking.“He was a very spiritual man,” the designer noted backstage before his Spring show. “Although I grew up in a Muslim family, I can’t call myself religious, but I do believe in a higher force.” Among the things he noted, for example, was that Tarkovsky was more into color and movement than dialogue.Picking up on that idea, Lurr went for brights, such as lime, buttercup, russet, and burgundy, in addition to his signature sober palette. The late ’50s and early ’60s proved fertile ground for exploring shapes and colors and merging those with the tailoring tradition he so admires. If he got into clothes in the first place, Lurr said, it was because tailoring is his couture: The slightest tweaks can change everything.He did a pretty job of it, incorporating riffs on Islamic art along the way and looking to artists he admires, such as sculptor Evan Holloway, as inspiration for layerable loose-weave sweaters, including one standout in turquoise with a subtle gathered detail in back. If some of the ideas felt slightly improbable for the real world (the cropped, slit flares come to mind), several options—sharp white or green coats with patch pockets, for example—looked appealing enough that many women just might consider a foray into the men’s department.Namacheko seems to have struck a sweet spot. Sales have doubled in a single season, as swelling audience numbers attest. The brand is currently stocked in all Dover Street locations, and talks are under way for a new outpost in Los Angeles.“Sometimes I feel like we’ve hit the jackpot,” Lurr offered. If he stays the course, he just might do that.
20 June 2018
Even before you consider the clothes, Namacheko’s story is very of-the-moment. Its founders, brother-and-sister act Dilan and Lezan Lurr, 29 and 24, respectively, were born in Kirkuk, Iraq, and raised in Sweden, so they know a thing or two about displacement, adaptation, and the search for belonging.Having studied art and engineering, the siblings found in fashion a way to work through it all. Fittingly enough, the name Namacheko is a composite, something they stumbled across while looking for something else (the name of a coffee, as it happens). Google’s blank template became their canvas. Now in its third season, the young label has already been name-checked by Dover Street Market and The Broken Arm in Paris.For Fall, the Lurrs said they wanted to pay tribute to Kurdish optimism in the face of, well, just about everything. The main influence was love: “The love of a people, where everyone looks [after] each other, like a mother with her children,” the show notes elaborated. The presentation opened with a forest green shetland-mohair peacoat with toggle buttons flipped vertically. A double-face royal blue silk-polyester shirt featured modernist organic buttons informed by the work of artist Barbara Hepworth. Crisp jackets with emerald or ruby piping would not look out of place in a creative-leaning setting; by contrast, the shells in Kvadrat fireproof upholstery fabric hewed more street.In a sign of the times, several pieces were shown on women. For those who can work it, there’s no reason why the flared trousers with front slits shouldn’t emerge as a crossover favorite. The same could go for the shaggy teddy bear coat, shown here with a classic black jacket.“We’ve been thinking about what a country means, what nationality means, and what that could mean in the future,” Dilan noted. “Identity means safety. We define ourselves through our tribe.” The designers seem set on proving that a tribe has little to do with where you’re from, or even where you’re going, but with the kindred spirits you pick up along the way.
17 January 2018