Nanette Lepore (Q3469)
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Nanette Lepore is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Nanette Lepore |
Nanette Lepore is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
1992
fashion designer
Nanette Lepore was one of the first shows I attended when I was interning for a glossy magazine back in 2011. I was overwhelmed by the commotion backstage, the lines for interviews, the models in hair and makeup. I was swept away! At the time, I already knew about Lepore’s work: In a small town in Massachusetts, my mother had managed to scoop a few pieces, like a knit cardigan and a pert jacket.Lepore has considerably pared back her showing style over the last eight years. And to be fair, with shrinking budgets and rising production costs, what label’s presenting methods haven’t become less about the bells and whistles? Since I’ve been reviewing Lepore over the past four years, save for one presentation, she has shown her collection in her art-dotted home or in her studio, which has since moved to the Navy Yard. When she shows in her home, as she did this time, sans the glitz, it feels endearingly personal. It is evident that Lepore isn’t trying to impress anyone, and she even explicitly stated that this season: “We just had a lot of fun making clothes this time. I’m done trying to please buyers and people. We want to make what we want to wear,” she said. “We are doing this the way that we want to do it. I don’t care anymore about trying to hit somebody’s markdown schedule; it’s just impossible. Now, you just have to do what you love, which is how we are going.”Lepore certainly did what she loved, and she radiated those feel-good vibes. She enlisted daughter Violet Savage to model the clothes, and Savage’s photographer boyfriend, fellow Bard student Lucas Bourgine, styled and shot the look book. Lepore had let them be while she cooked chili downstairs (it’s her daughter’s favorite). The result was refreshing. Lepore’s clothes, always print-forward with a flirty ruffle, looked great on her daughter. Young people will like the tiny cropped zebra-stripes jacket. Women of all ages will adore the optic white suit that Bourgine styled with Lepore’s own silver conch shell belt. The Hawaiian-print shirt was full of funk, and while at first glance it may have felt awkward when paired with a tweed suit, it actually fit together quite coolly. In the end, letting go, or rather, relaxing, is a really good look for Lepore.
9 September 2019
Nanette Lepore has an optimistic attitude for where fashion is going. Throughout our conversation in her newly relocated space in the Brooklyn Navy Yard, she mentioned the wordfunseveral times. (“Fashion should be fun!” is the phrase that she said throughout.) Lepore is, after all, feeling good, energized, and settling into her new digs that overlook the water, a far cry from the hustle and bustle of her former space in the Garment District. And these good vibes show. While Lepore has always been known for her quirky and lighthearted attitude in clothing, it was much more vibrant this time around. Those romantic silk tops decorated with lace or frilly blouses in a paisley print all came in groovy hues, complete with shocks of nuclear blue and salmon pinks. Even tweed got a psychedelic makeover, like a classic shift dress that had bursts of electric blue, neon yellow, and lime green.Lepore noted that she dresses for three generations of women and for women who go to work, even those in politics. “We are dressing the more colorful, reckless, and rebellious politician girl,” she said. And politics isn’t far from Lepore: Her sister is a judge in her native Ohio who will often wear a funky look underneath her black robe while in court. There is something for women like that, too. Maybe their first choice isn’t the bright plaid wool coat with an artfully nipped waist, but it could very well be the tailored pinstriped shirt dress. Fashion is fun, and getting dressed for work should be, too.
26 February 2019
After 30 years working out of the garment district, Nanette Lepore has moved her production space to the industrial Navy Yard in Brooklyn. It’s a big change for Lepore and her team, and it comes with a far longer commute—shuttle bus included. It’s an emotional move: like many New York designers, she has a long history with the midtown fashion community. Ten years ago, for herSpring 2009 collection, she walked the runway with her daughter in T-shirts that read “Save the Garment District” in an effort to raise awareness to protect the area from detrimental zoning laws.But the time has come for change, and while it’s a jarring transition, it has allowed Lepore to refocus her design. During the move, she looked back into her archives and rediscovered her own love for dressing up. Lepore has a definite personal bohemian style, and that translated sweetly into the collection. Her signature scarf prints came patchworked in a Stevie Nicks-esque top with tiered, frilled bell sleeves. The denim was also impressive: A standout piece was a soft dark wash jean skirt that was buttoned from waist to hem.Altogether, pieces appeared lighter, less constricted, and not as busy as in former collections. That was thanks to simple silhouettes that allowed the bold prints and charming embroideries to stand out. (See the pretty, prairie-tinged embroidered silk dress with short ruffled sleeves.) Lepore also revived her love for animal prints, which feels very now, such as a kicky leopard print skirt suit with the waist cinched with one of her own vintage silver concho belts. It was only recently, during the U-Haul lug to Brooklyn, that she started wearing her jewelry again. (Today, she stacked her wrists with some very cool Mexican turquoise bangles and Victorian-era belt bracelets.) Turns out, the move looks good on Lepore, and for her label, too.
14 September 2018
Nanette Lepore has been looking towards Scotland this season. The country has long been a source of inspiration for her, and now her college-age daughter is thinking of studying abroad there. The designer cited the paintings of Scottish artist Margaret Macdonald Mackintosh, known for the “Glasgow Style” and her gilded paintings during the late 1800s. That rich appeal was best translated through a gold lounge suit layered on top of a cerulean floral-print nightshirt, evoking Alessandro Michele’s decadent Gucci more-is-more look. On the more pared-back end, there was a nubby burgundy Irish wool sweater (knitted in Peru) and an asymmetrical windowpane skirt.Lepore understands that her customers occupy a wide age range, from around 30 to 60, so her clothes have to appeal across the board. A good example that encompassed both age groups was a polished gray, double-breasted, windowpane-print blazer-dress. It could be worn sans trousers for Lepore’s younger-minded (or perhaps, daring) customers, or with pants for those who are a little more reserved.
24 February 2018
This season, Nanette Lepore’s way of coping with the current harsh political realities was to embrace women’s sexuality. She cited Hollywood actresses from the 1930s, with their cheeky attitude and slinky attire to match. Lepore translated this idea into pieces such as a charming pink slip dress with a delicate floral print—a graphic taken from a vintage dress of hers—that seemed as ’90s as it was ’30s. There was also the use of scarf prints on a pretty off-the-shoulder wrap dress—uplifting but a bit busy.Many of Lepore’s pieces had potential to be worn in several different ways with some tweaks. There was a silver sequined coat that was styled with a slip dress that could have also worked as an evening dress when worn on its own. Also, consider Lepore’s white eyelet shirtdress. It was nipped at the waist with a gentle poet sleeve and would be a go-to for Lepore’s clients—who she described as ranging from 18 to women in their 60s. She plans on producing the piece with a lining and potentially without a lining. Sans the layer, the dress could also easily have a bit of star-power: A celebrity like Bella Hadid or any daring customer could sport the piece, unbuttoned and without a lining, with a boyfriend jean. Now, let’s see how Lepore ends up marketing the number—the women of today, after all, like to have options.
15 September 2017
This season, Nanette Lepore opted for an intimate studio setting to show her collection instead of the cocktail hour–style presentations she has done in the past. Though there was no Champagne glass–clutching crowd to add a party atmosphere, the pieces kept their lighthearted appeal: At first glance, instant standouts included a burgundy velvet bomber jacket with a studded placket and a black semi-sheer pussy-bow blouse. Also, with no influx of showgoers, everything was easier to observe. (Plus it was refreshing to see Lepore’s team up close: It was all women and, for the first time in several years, Lepore used a female photographer, Jordan Tiberio.)Despite the cheerful, all-female setting, Lepore did note that, like many designers this fashion month, she’s had the tumultuous state of politics on her mind. She decided to highlight the moment with a forward-thinking, optimistic outlook. “When women take over the world, we are going to dress in the craziest, most beautiful clothing,” she said. To emphasize those “I am woman, hear me roar” feelings of unabashed femininity, Lepore used a bevy of plush fabrics and rich colors. A deep red velvet dress worn over a lingerie-style black lace top evoked a romantic attitude. Thrown over the look was a stellar burgundy coat made out of a supersoft, feathery-textured velvet. A pair of velvet trousers had a clever kick that the label’s younger customers will like: Two zippers sat on the hip bone. During the walk-through, Lepore mentioned that her customer base is between 25 and 45. In a room where the team of women fit Lepore’s described age bracket, it wasn’t difficult to imagine each person pulling off one of the fun looks.
22 February 2017
Nanette Lepore’s desire to include more varying prints, patterns, and fabrics in her clothes could not have been more evident in her Spring collection. “I want to do less solids,” said the designer at her presentation at Union Square’s new Metropolis restaurant. There was nary a plain solid in sight but rather a mélange of rich, playful looks. The brocade jackets and pleated trousers—done up in paisleys or a rosebud print—were charming. So was a sweet black-and-white gingham puff-sleeved dress that came in long- and short-length versions. (Lepore called the shorter piece “the Shopbop one,” and the longer number that she wore herself, “the Saks” version. Though aimed at two sets of customers, both were equally pretty). The old-school technique of cross-stitching made a cameo on some of the pieces too. The look could have come across as folky on a shift dress, but instead had a bit of edge thanks to a tiger-print corset that added a refreshing clash. But the most clever standout was also the most pared back: An exposed hook-and-eye fastener was coolly used in lieu of a zipper on a pair of wide-leg brocade trousers.There was also Lepore’s print collaboration with painter Lori Field, an artist known for her fantastical illustrations. A button-up blouse was one of the most talked-about pieces: The cleanly tailored cut, its oversize collar, and slightly flared sleeves, served as the perfect canvas for Field’s funky print. The look was fun and cheerful, two points that Lepore always brings home in her clothes.
14 September 2016
Nanette Leporehas Italy on the brain—not Milan, which she considers more of a business-based city, but Rome. Lepore is a designer who likes to have a good time: She enjoys making clothes that women can wear, pieces that they can dance in or bounce from a black-tie event to a brunch in.Like Rome, which she described as a place where “women wear fishnets while riding Vespas,” Lepore’s new Resort collection has a sense of unhinged romanticism. Black lace, a fabric that can be reminiscent of a mourningnonna, looked alluring whipped into a turtleneck with bell sleeves. There was a fresh, jaunty element to the lace when it came in white, as it did on a carefree bohemian frock with tassels dangling from the collar. Embroidery was a standout touch; fat red roses were stitched onto a black zip-up jacket and down the middle zipper of a curve-skimming body-con dress. Leopard print looked chic in the form of a décolletage-dipping blouse, and was further elevated with a black lace trim. Rome or not, it’s the kind of piece made for fun.
28 July 2016
How are the ideas of fast fashion and the insecurity of an election year related to the practice of drinking tea? According toNanette Lepore, the three subjects are connected by the calmness, certainty, and the little bit of mystery behind the tradition of afternoon tea. “Back in the day, women would have their friends over and hold these wild tea parties. They were held in the boudoir, sometimes in a nightie—or topless,” said Lepore at her presentation at the Baccarat Hotel, adding, “And tea is something that is always there and comforting.”In a mash-up of comfort and mystery—as well as posh tradition—Lepore focused on using soft fabrics throughout her Fall 2016 collection. The rich materials were translated into seductive numbers, like a deep violet silk dress fastened at the waist with a velvet tie, embroidered with sequin florals—its loose silhouette reminiscent of the carefree flapper frock. There was also the alluring use of lace, as on a top with a Victorian mock-neck collar, or the sliver of a lace shirt peeking out from a slinky silk pajama-robe suit. On the more structured front, there was a striped Oxford blue jumpsuit with wide legs that could work from post-teatime to the office.The outerwear was classic and polished. The lavender and gray bouclé coats had natty detailing like suede pockets and wispy fringe on the hems and sleeves, as well as a floppy oversize collar to cut the primness of the pieces. One standout that was very right now was the bomber jacket. Satin Japanese bombers have become a huge street style hit recently, but Lepore had a more elevated and sumptuous take, rendering her version in velvet and embroidering the front and back with sequins. According to the designer, the focus on these types of fabrics comes with a good reason: “I want to go back to more traditional fabrics that just feel rich,” she said. “People are responding more to lush, more luxurious things. There is fast fashion and there is the real thing.” For Lepore, the latter has turned out to be a good choice.
19 February 2016
Nanette Lepore has long boasted a varying range of customers, from peers of her college student daughter—who currently scours mom’s ’90s-era looks—to loyal fans in their sixties. For the past several years, Lepore has been creating pieces that cover that broad spectrum. Her Resort collection included adjustable, easy-to-style items that can be worn no matter what your generation. For the 20-something crew, there was a pair of dark-wash flares with corset-type lacing tracing up the pelvis, and for more mature women, there were polished wide-leg trousers with a varsity stripe, or rather, an elegant version of track pants.Blouses dominated the collection; among the standouts were the zip-up tops with embroidered sequin flowers. With a new focus on blouses, Lepore has been designing less of her signature dresses, which is somewhat of a shame, because this season they were particularly beautiful. In particular: a sheer mesh dress with floral embroidery made to look like the print on an Italian piano shawl and a romantic black décolletage-diving dress with huge, sweeping bell sleeves.
28 November 2017
The topic of discussion atNanette Lepore’s Garment District studio wasn’t the ’70s, androgyny, or any of those run-of-the-mill themes: it was food. You can always trust the designer to reference something a little offbeat—forResort, her muse was William Butler Yeats’s suffragette girlfriend Maud Gonne. Lepore designed her new collection for her friends Katie Baldwin and Amanda Merrow, who grow wheat and vegetables on their farm in Amagansett. “They’re out in the fields planting and growing all day, and they have these amazing dinner parties every Friday night,” Lepore explained. “Everyone wears cocktail dresses and picks wildflowers . . . I really think our attention is moving toward what we’re eating and where our food is coming from,” she added. “Farmers are the next rock stars, I swear!”Lepore didn’t necessarily design clothes you could wearwhileyou were farming—she mostly wanted to capture the breezy, freewheeling vibe of those parties. “It’s really about what you’d want to wear in midsummer,” she said. There were yards and yards of chiffon; dense, intricate flower embroideries; and no shortage of ruffles and frills. Pintucking and soft elastic replaced any heavy lines or structure. Lepore also designed a few pretty, straightforward dresses with her younger clients in mind; by the time these clothes hit stores in July, they’ll no doubt want something new to wear to all the weddings on their calendars. A frosting-pink lace number should fit the bill nicely: It was easy, flattering, and would brighten a jet-lagged complexion, too.
1 February 2016
Nanette Leporealways manages to inject a swipe of playfulness into her clothes. Take this season, when the designer introduced her collection at her downtown store, transforming the presentation space into a full-on bash. “I’ve always threatened to have a big party!” said Lepore. “And then I made fun clothes that people would want to go out in.” The attire matched the carefree scene, ranging from cocktail pieces to daywear, all with references that hovered between the late ’60s and ’70s (“Time periods when everything was happening,” said Lepore). That feel-good, let-loose attitude was evoked in an off-the-shoulder black eyelet dress, while a floral-print frock in groovy neon blues and purples had a bohemian swing to it. Cool retro separates came in a multi-patterned jacket with ruffled kimono sleeves and a polished pair of cropped flares.One infusion, however, brought the party into the here and now: that was the segment of the show devoted to select pieces from Lepore’s collaboration with Eddie Eddie by Billy Tommy, a line of shirts featuring cheeky statements and graphics, worn by Miley Cyrus and Kendrick Lamar. Lepore translated the statement-making text nicely into body-skimming silhouettes, like a Pepto-pink slip dress that was emblazoned with “Slippery When Wet” and a bubblegum-lacquered midi skirt with a thigh-high slit that had “This Is My Favorite Mini Skirt Duh!” printed on it. But it was the “Tie Me Up Please Thank You” tube top, cleverly paired with empire-waist pin-striped gaucho pants, that’s guaranteed to keep both Lepore’s grown-up and teenage customers equally entertained at any party.
16 September 2015
Nanette Lepore is keeping it in the family this season: That curly-haired model in the lookbook is her daughter, Violet. She has walked a few of Mom's shows in the past, but this was her first time really acting as the face of the brand. For Resort, Lepore dug through her archives to channel a romantic, Victorian vibe, resurfacing off-the-shoulder blouses, corset-inspired lacing, and lots of crochet. "For me, it's all about beauty and femininity returning to fashion," she explained, pointing out intricate beadwork and floral embellishments. In shades of dusty pink and wisteria, the clothes could have skewed overly sweet, but the designer's muse, Maud Gonne, lent a darker, somewhat mystical tone. "My husband is obsessed with William Butler Yeats, so he's been talking about Maud Gonne for years," Lepore said. "She was a suffragette, she fought against the English oppression in Ireland, she researched Irish mysticism with Yeats…. She was fabulous." Girls craving something along those witchy lines will be especially drawn to a black knitted dress with wide bell sleeves.
17 June 2015
"I started off wanting to evoke a posh environment…a private women's club for women pushing the envelope and supporting each other," said Nanette Lepore after her show, where Arianna Huffington andSNL's Vanessa Bayer sat front-row. "I played into this fantasy of a fun girls' club where they're rebels, being the heads of government and industry. But keeping it fun."While it's more likely said leaders wore these flared miniskirts and printed sheaths during college and early professional careers, the collection did bring home a subtle military-meets-bohemian vibe, working in clubby (as in members-only) prints and patterns. The feel of rebellion was delivered in the form of Sperry boat shoes reimagined as platforms in leopard-print pony hair or by tweaking the watermelon pink and green prep standard a few degrees to a salmon and teal, best seen in a silk pleated top and wool sailor pants. It was earnest rebellion. With wool military capes, lace or brocade dresses, and a handful of crafty crochet and cable-knit sweaters that flirted with a '60s vibe, the collection landed nicely in Lepore's contemporary sweet spot.
18 February 2015
By now, we don't have to tell you that the '70s are back. Nanette Lepore's bohemian, romantic aesthetic lends itself well to the era, and there was no shortage of paisley, off-the-shoulder blouses, or indigo in her showroom. Instead of designing vintage replicas, Lepore honed in on her favorite '70s details: Billowing sleeves, lace-up bodices, and eyelet embroidery were cute twists on easy silhouettes. Denim was a big theme, too, with a dozen shades of blue dominating the racks. A soft, frayed knit that resembled dark-rinse denim was used on a kicky A-line skirt, shrunken jacket, and fringed poncho. "It's hard to get ponchos right," Lepore said, "but this one feels like a jacket, too." Along with an indigo-dyed lace dress and superwide gauchos, it was a collection highlight.
15 January 2015
Nanette Lepore served up a straight shot of pure, unadulterated fun with an uplifting Spring collection loosely inspired by past vacations she's spent in California and the South of France. "We love the sun and we love the sea," she said backstage before her show, "so we really wanted to get that relaxed, beachy vibe going." Channeling a coastal sensibility, Lepore established a cheerful, laid-back tone with the zesty opening shirtdress boasting a roomy, tentlike shape and multiple deep pockets. She continued to combine mellow yellow with tranquil blue and blush pink on a series of "border print" pieces, including wispy silk slips, sporty swimsuits, and off-the-shoulder frocks featuring flared bell sleeves that successfully tapped into this season's bohemian mood.While those warm hues and lively patterns successfully energized the lineup, a series of simpler white textured-cotton looks were what ultimately stood out. Among the winners were a strapless cutout sheath, cute skort suit, and a buttoned-up halter dress that fluttered down the runway. Nothing complicated here, just easy, wearable clothes—not to mention cool flatform sandals—that will speak to Lepore's youthful customer. Speaking of youthful, a definite highlight was the designer's 16-year-old daughter, Violet Savage, who made her catwalk debut in a beautiful embroidered caftan. Forgoing a typical finale lap, Lepore's brother and niece led the entire cast in an exuberant conga line that left guests wondering why more shows aren't this lighthearted.
7 September 2014
For Resort, Nanette Lepore was inspired by the "global gypsy's suitcase." Isn't everyone? To be fair, it was an apt description. "It's about balancing what you wear when you're away and what you can wear right now," Lepore said on Tuesday at her studio. To wit, she offered vacation-appropriate pieces alongside slightly more structured dresses and separates for work and play in the city.That meant a lace-striped sweatshirt for the plane ride over, and an embroidered tunic and a long floral dress with cutaways at the sides for when you arrive. For those staying in town, there was a fit-and-flare trench, the first Lepore has designed in a while. "I saw girls in Tokyo wearing them, and I thought,This is it, it's time to reintroduce them into the collection," she said. Bi-level, floral-printed sheath dresses were another option—a conservative alternative to the ubiquitous crop top. Also, "it makes your waist look really teeny."At times it read a little too classic—too pretty-girl in a fashion cycle where a certain amount of boyishness is in overwhelming favor. Lepore addressed that with a culotte suit in a spongy woven fabric that could be worn with Stan Smiths as easily as it could with a pair of stilettos.
3 June 2014
"It's an interweaving of different embellishments and embroideries from all over. I just sort of picked my favorites and brought them back to New York City to be handcrafted here," said Nanette Lepore backstage before her Fall runway show. The #HandCraftedInNY theme (guests were encouraged to share that hashtag on social media) tied in nicely with the designer's longstanding commitment to preserving the city's Garment District. She recently met with Mayor Bill de Blasio to discuss the cause, and outfitted his wife and daughter for his inauguration back in January.Lepore opened with a group of looks in purple—the color of more like half the lineup—that ranged from deep shades of bordeaux and cassis to shocking magenta and violet. Perhaps the colorway was a tribute to her daughter Violet on her sixteenth birthday. Addressing her youthful customer's everyday needs, Lepore offered office-appropriate suiting separates such as a sharp, pleated jacket styled with a waist-defining belt. On the more playful, weekend-ready side of the equation were boldly feminine dresses including a bohemian, "handloom" patterned style that looked cool topped with a fuzzy mohair cardigan. Meanwhile, a Lurex-flecked turtleneck paired with a densely embroidered midi skirt highlighted the collection's artisanal feel, as did the gray flannel finale number, which was intricately embellished with a magpie assortment of sequins and beads."I like the idea that you can start the season with long ditzy skirts and dresses, and then start piling on alpaca sweaters and very utilitarian coats," said Lepore. Noteworthy outerwear items included a tailored, menswear-ish topper with an iridescent sheen, as well as a variety of shearling-trimmed coats; the fur occasionally seemed a bit too hairy, like it needed a trim. Ultimately, it was the cozy knits and longer lengths here that felt like Lepore's freshest proposals.
11 February 2014
Nanette Lepore kicked off 2014 on a high note when she outfitted Bill de Blasio's wife, Chirlane McCray, and daughter, Chiara, for his New York City mayoral inauguration. In addition to making a fun fashion statement, the De Blasio ladies were also advocating for the preservation of Manhattan's Garment District, which Lepore has long championed. The designer kept up the momentum with a Pre-Fall collection full of updated signatures. "I wanted to evoke the idea of a lush library and the tactile feeling of books," she explained during a preview at her downtown townhouse, where the new lookbook was shot. Lepore emphasized texture with a snug tweed jacket decorated with artisanal embroidery, and a boxy T-shirt and matching pencil skirt in a warped floral that reminded her of a "well-loved, cushiony chair." Elsewhere, she delivered plenty of smart, tailored separates. Flattering skirtsuits and cropped, wide-leg trousers came in either a graphic windowpane check or a soft, pleated cotton knit. They will appeal to young professionals who don't take themselves too seriously and, perhaps, an aspiring politician or two.
5 January 2014
"This is the first time in several seasons that I'm not working with super techy fabrics," said Nanette Lepore backstage before her Spring show. Like many designers this week, Lepore found a new freshness in softer, easy—almost deflated—silhouettes and worked with more natural materials that gave the clothes movement. "It's all about romanticism but done in a modern way," she said. The finale series of long, blush-colored embroidered dresses best encapsulated this message. Meanwhile, the real standouts here were several wispy, bias-cut silk slips featuring slim, fluttering peplums that came in vibrant hues like poppy red, daffodil yellow, and aqua blue. Those ultra-feminine numbers aside, Lepore's latest lineup offered plenty of everyday looks, too, including a sharp white leather jacket paired with a mesh sweater and clean, pleated tennis skirt, as well as relaxed suiting separates. "We're dressing women for work again," Lepore added. Playful accessories like collage-printed leather satchels, Birkenstock-like flat sandals, and rubber-soled mules highlighted the collection's youthful appeal. Overall, it felt at once effortlessly relevant and on-brand for Lepore.
10 September 2013
A die-hard supporter of the Made in America movement, Nanette Lepore recently moved the production of her shoe line to California. Time spent on the West Coast—and the personal style of popular Los Angeles–based fashion bloggers Shea Marie and Aimee Song—inspired her Venice Beach-themed Resort collection. "There's such a creative spirit out there," she said. "But those It girls, no matter how relaxed they seem, are very invested in their look."To outfit her muses, Lepore used lots of blue: cobalt-accented china patterns on swimwear and A-line dresses, a heat-embossed navy knit skirt suit, and a veiling of what looked like berry-colored spray paint over a digital floral. But it was all "grounded in black," the basis for most wardrobes—even those of California girls. Lace overlay pieces offered a bit of that trademark Lepore romanticism. And a dark denim peplum shell and matching below-the-knee pencil skirt were cool. A knit fuchsia dress in a very traditional short-sleeve, A-line shape looked a little fuddy-duddy amid the rest of the collection, though, and the patchwork baby doll took the patchwork too far, even if the shape was fresh. There's no doubting, however, that Lepore's beloved fashion bloggers will be into the brunt of the range—and that their followers will endorse it, too.
4 June 2013
Nanette Lepore has been avidly following the images coming back from the Mars Curiosity rover over the past few months, and she cited the Red Planet as a launch pad for her Fall collection. Backstage before the show, the designer mused, "I keep thinking, will my daughter really go there [Mars] one day? Is that going to be the new normal?" Lepore touched on the theme with engineered prints that resembled either molten lava or "a slice of Earth," as she put it. The holographic leather accessories here—such as ankle-strap platforms and structured carryalls—were less space age and more Seapunk (ask any of the bloggers sitting in the front row about that alternative trend), but they're still bound to resonate with Lepore's contemporary customer. Ultimately, it was the simpler, down-to-earth looks that made the biggest waves. Two suits—one cut with a bit of slack, the other nipped in and slim—were surprising standouts. Who knew suits were such a strong suit for Lepore?
12 February 2013
"Pre-fall is the new Resort," Nanette Lepore said at a preview of her new collection. "It's about having fun remixing your wardrobe." This season, Lepore found inspiration in artist Marc Chagall's circus series, which proved to be a clever choice for capturing the fun factor she was after. The paintings' bright colors and patterns were infused into a kaleidoscope motif that was splattered on the front and back of a short-sleeve dress and on a zip-up intarsia cardigan. Lepore called the knitting technique "the new stripe." She paired the cardigan with silk cigarette pants and a matching snakeskin T-shirt. Along with a between-the-seasons shearling vest, those were the collection's boldest pieces. Other looks, like a pair of cropped leather trousers with visible back seams and a selection of lightweight tweed separates (a voluminous skirt comes to mind), would fit more easily in the wardrobes of Lepore's fans. If a balance between statements and staples was what the designer was after, we'd say she hit her mark.
6 January 2013
We all know Nanette Lepore for her feminine take on current trends, but there have been times in recent seasons when it has seemed like the contemporary designer was trying too hard to be the cool kid on the block. The latest Spring collection successfully reinforced Lepore's brand identity in a fresh way.Inspired by the porcelain room at Charlottenburg Palace in Berlin, Lepore mixed together several toilelike prints in pumped-up pastel hues on pieces like the best look, a halter-neck dress cut from lightweight organza that had a molded fluidity to it. But that one might go over the head of Lepore's core clientele, who will likelier opt for the more straightforward stuff on offer, including shrunken gingham jackets and of-the-moment striped linen board shorts.Still, Lepore has never been afraid to reinforce her accessible aesthetic. On a more brazen note, the designer placed Obama-Biden pins on every seat in the house. "That's all we've been talking about backstage, so I had to do something," she said. "Women need to be strong, intelligent, and remember that in addition to clothes, these things are important too."
11 September 2012
Nanette Lepore was just honored at Youngstown University's spring commencement (her alma mater). It had her thinking a lot about her own college days. "I was remembering all of the art students and their influences, like Donald Judd," she said. Thoughts of Judd's op art lent themselves nicely to Lepore's Resort collection—which had her dabbling with geometry and color. Shades of "gumball green," shocking pink, and deep navy blue made their way into almost every piece, from a sheer fit-and-flare jersey dress with quarter-length sleeves to a cashmere baseball sweater with sporty mesh side panels and piping. "The customer is taking a break from dresses," she said. "So I figured it would be nice to have pieces that you can take apart and wear two ways." Case in point: a paisley patterned silk crepe top worn with a cotton skirt of the same print, paired to look like a dress. The same idea carried over to a silk navy and white striped skirt styled with a simple floral top and a wide belt, but the look that stood out the most was a pair of "ink-blot" cropped skinny pants and a vertical-striped chiffon shirt topped with an oversize knit jacket. Her customers won't miss the dresses.
7 June 2012
"My customers were missing the beading," Nanette Lepore said backstage after her Fall show. "They want that kind of crafty prettiness again." So Lepore listened to her girly fan base and brought back beads in a modern way—as a mirrored curlicue pattern on a vibrant chartreuse background that faded out into rich burgundy. "What a ballbuster of a print that was," she laughed, having reportedly spent many a late night trying to engineer the print just right (and also making it work for her contemporary price point, as she pointed out).It was a high point in the collection, shown on slim trousers, flirty frocks, as were colorful metallic accessories like structured briefcase satchels and flat loafers. Other artisanal-inspired looks were less successful and strayed too far into seventies gypsy territory. But overall, it was a well thought-out, youthful, and wearable lineup for Lepore.
14 February 2012
Nanette Lepore makes clothes for real girls like lookbook model Allaire Heisig, a 17-year-old from Long Island that the industry has been buzzing about lately. Heisig was charmingly down-to-earth, sporting a loose side braid while strutting around the showroom in Lepore's pre-fall designs—even if she did make a few fumbles when it came to styling herself by tucking in collars and putting on skirts backwards. You could imagine her going to a first big job interview in a combination of the smart, colorful suiting separates, pieces like a sunny yellow collarless blazer with a tuxedolike tail, or the high-waisted palazzo pants Lepore has shown the past few seasons. "My customer got used to coming to us for jackets," said the designer. But retailers consistently demand flirty dresses from Lepore, and she delivered on those, too, in silk floral and still-selling leopard prints. A few of the flouncy numbers were toughened up in leather, making them a nice option for the girl-next-door headed out to the mall—or, if you've got genes like Allaire, to a model casting call.
4 January 2012
Backstage before her Spring runway show, Nanette Lepore shed some (ultraviolet) light on this season's neon mania. "We approach color from a new place each season," the designer said. "Everyone in this industry feeds off each other, and the fabric retailers have lately been pushing amazing, sturdy fabrics in these bright colors." Never one to skip out on a big trend, Lepore put on a blinding show today with head-to-toe electric colors (right down to the soles on the platform wedges).The effect was sometimes charming, sometimes abrasive. When done well, the shocking shades were more of an accent than the main act. A houndstooth shorts suit etched in tangerine orange, worn with a citron button-up, was a highlighter-hued highlight. As was the flouncy lilac tank dress in a scuba fabric with sporty zips and hot pink seams on the bodice. There were a few full-on looks here that crossed over into Lisa Frank territory (we're thinking of a certain hibiscus-print windbreaker ensemble). But one thing is for sure: While some editors who have been running around from show to show this week might think the whole neon thing is played out already, Lepore's youthful customer (like the designer's teenage daughter, Violet, who was wearing a pair of acid yellow Doc Martens) will surely find today's color palette fresh come springtime.
13 September 2011
Nanette Lepore took a trip to the amusement park for Resort, showing a collection she described as a "twist on Americana." Each look was named after a retro dance move, like the confetti-colored suit with a Juke Box jacket and kicky Jivin' skirt. More often than not, the clothes were as cute as their monikers: A pretty, Campari-colored silk dress with mixed pleating was cut on the bias, and flattering, high-waisted palazzo pants had a built-in corset. Sometimes Lepore got a bit carried away with the kitsch—as in a ruffled, off-the-shoulder number with a drop waist—but her fans should be sweet on a pair of novelty shorts with a cherry print, an update to a big seller from a few seasons back.
1 June 2011
Brrr. You could feel the chill in the air at Nanette Lepore's Fall show today. The opening series of head-to-toe white and ivory looks set the tone for the collection: soft, light, and ethereal, with a glacial sheen. Silk slipdresses that perhaps would work best for spring were warmed up with knit and fur layers. Noteworthy: a long, nude-colored number with an impressionist bloom print, paired with a white chubby jacket. Speaking of warming up, there was a parka trench with a split zip, shearling shawl collar, and a textured mustard topcoat that ought to do the defrosting trick. Lepore took a wrong turn somewhere in the middle of the lineup, showing leather looks that were a tad too much, and sparkly kimono dresses that would be best left in the boudoir. But overall, the collection was cooler and cleaner than expected. And the cracked-leather Mary Jane platform wedges were a fun step up.
15 February 2011
Bummed out by daily bulletins on the foundering economy—"I need to stop listening to NPR every morning!" she said—Nanette Lepore sought solace in the homespun. Her inspiration was the work apron, and elements of that seamstress' wardrobe staple could be picked out all over the runway: Dresses tied closed with unfussy bows, and pockets were ample enough for PDAs all and sundry.At times, the overlarge pockets and utilitarian buckles and clasps were a distraction, but a sequined mini worn with a tucked-in white work shirt brought the concept back into focus. An amplified rose print (especially sweet on swimwear) helped lift the mood, as did a live performance of original songs by the soulful crooner John Forté. Cutouts on a white eyelet blouse echoed the rose leitmotif.The show may not have been the week's very most compelling reason to rush out to shop, but—peppered with shades of plummy pink and tangerine—it was a good antidote to the recession blues.
14 September 2010
In the contemporary market, a designer's strength is measured by an ability to distill the season's key trends into something the customer will want to buy. That sounds obvious, but it's not always easy to pull off. With her latest effort, Nanette Lepore was solidly on the mark. "I looked at a Renaissance portrait and bumped up the colors," she said backstage, casually explaining her Fall inspiration. What distinguished this from any number of other "romantic" collections? Military detailing and prodigious use of velvet—two big motifs this week. A sturdy wool coat benefited from the addition of cargo pockets, an olive anorak was cut in silk and velvet, and a series of colorful draped velvet gowns closed the show. Lepore was heavy-handed with frills at times—an explosion of ruffles weighed down another wool topper—but buyers looking for price-friendly variations on Fall's top looks will find much to choose from here.
16 February 2010
Nanette Lepore was thinking about color for Spring, and she ended up with a palette of highlighter hues. Acid yellow, neon orange, and hot pink lent the season's long and fluid silhouette a bit of heft (not to mention some of the energy that was missing last season). "I wanted the colors to give the clothes a more powerful look," Lepore explained backstage before her show. The result was a playful mix of airy, printed dresses and striped knits that would work on a summer day in South Beach or Southampton. Lepore's chunky wedges—hybrid booties and strappy sandals—in prints and patterns as eye-grabbing as the clothes offered a grounding element to the lightness on top.
15 September 2009
Shades of raspberry and grape showed up alongside mustard and dark teal in Nanette Lepore's vibrant and print-heavy palette, and—not to leave anything out—accessories got the leopard treatment, with sequins and paillettes playing supporting roles, too. The clothes themselves were much less memorable than the colors they were rendered in. In fact, the piece that left the most lasting impression was an all-black coat with a fishtail hem (uneven hemlines being a recurring theme). It had a simplicity and, hence, wearability that was lacking in the collection's more frivolous looks.
17 February 2009
Nanette Lepore has never had a reputation for being politically charged, but she chose to take a stand at her Spring show. "Save the Garment Center" was splashed across the set backdrop, also appearing on buttons, pencils, and staff T-shirts (Garment Center tees are emerging as one of the week's more unusual trends—they were also prominent at Anna Sui). It gave some edge to an otherwise delicate collection in an "exotic garden" palette of poppy, turquoise, and jade. Ruffles showed up in virtually every look, from a supersoft cropped leather jacket with fluttery sleeves to silk skirts with seriously flouncy hems. Lepore took a bow with her young daughter, both in the same slogan shirts as the staff, except craftily reworked with ribbon, lace, and sequins. The DIY touch was a reminder of the Garment Center spirit activists are trying to save.
9 September 2008