Nanushka (Q3471)
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| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Nanushka |
No description defined |
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According to Nanushka, the paper anniversary ought to celebrate the 20th year, not the first. With spring 2025 marking the brand’s 20th anniversary, designer Sandra Sándor wanted to pay homage to both the past and the future of the Budapest label.With a collection aptly titled “Paper,” Sándor played off the idea of turning a new page, in both a literal and figurative sense. “I was looking at what Nanushka stood for in the past 20 years, and I also want to see how it is going to be relevant in the next 20 years. So it’s kind of flipping the page to the future,” she said. In a more sartorial interpretation, she crafted strips of raw-edged poplin which bore a striking resemblance to cut paper. A recurring motif, the dynamic tiered fringe rustled down the runway on skirts, dresses, and tops and was one of the show’s standouts. Sándor’s love of handcrafts appeared elsewhere in the show, like in a contrast blanket stitch, which appeared on the Origami bag and a black bra top.While she may be looking ahead, Sándor’s longstanding house codes played a key role in the collection. She returned to Hungarian Kopjafa symbols (16th century emblems that help denote identity) printed on silk scarves, embossed in leather purses, and stamped on gold coin jewelry, as well as Nanushka’s trademark Okobor vegan leather.Sándor’s prevailing sense of nostalgia helped her decide to bring the show to New York instead of Europe, where it usually shows. “I remembered this moment when I was around 16, and I was walking in SoHo and going into some stores, and that really cemented my desire to become a fashion designer,” she said. We’re all better for her decision. Between the striped knitted micro-shorts paired with a semi-buttoned blouse, floor-length green leopard print cardigan, and sloped shouldered jackets, Sándor injected a welcomed dose of Eastern European cool into New York Fashion Week.
7 September 2024
Nanushka creative director Sandra Sándor’s take on resort didn’t dilute her codes, it reinforced them. Following a fall collection derived from her own core memories, the Hungarian designer used nostalgia as her primary form of inspiration. Budapest, the place where she was born and raised, again served as a foundation, but this time she focussed on her late teenage years.“It’s definitely my grandfather’s wardrobe” said Sándor, while going through patchworked details and hook hardwares. “He used to wear these types of workwear while gardening in the countryside, but they came from his war years, typical of an Eastern European workforce.” Papier-mâché was used to construct a fringe-like texture, alongside laser cutting, hand-cut fringing, fabric blocking and zips. “I got really fascinated by the biker subculture in Western movies, and I was able to translate and subtly merge it with our brand pillars,” said the designer of a more sportswear mood shift in the collection, guided by a never-ending investigation into comfortable clothing.OKOBOR, the signature alt-leather that Nanushka trademarked, ran throughout the collection mingling, at times, with a form of regenerated leather partly made from a compression of unwanted leather offcuts, on a journey of sustainability. “I used the regenerated leather to give more structure to the silhouettes, as in coats. While for lighter blouses and puffy looks, OKOBOR is our first choice,” Sándor said.Following a recent relaunch of its new identity, Nanushka has a monogram on satins and leathers, borrowing symbols from wooden totems that decorate the showroom, as well as origami bag locks. The menswear section presented a new type of recycled cashmere. With the 20th anniversary of the birth of the brand approaching, the team behind Nanushka is gathering new ideas to enrich the business. “My mother was in the kidswear industry, and I’d love to implement that segment in the business in the future,” said Sándor.
15 June 2024
Nanushka creative director Sandra Sándor’s take on resort didn’t dilute her codes, it reinforced them. Following a fall collection derived from her own core memories, the Hungarian designer used nostalgia as her primary form of inspiration. Budapest, the place where she was born and raised, again served as a foundation, but this time she focussed on her late teenage years.“It’s definitely my grandfather’s wardrobe” said Sándor, while going through patchworked details and hook hardwares. “He used to wear these types of workwear while gardening in the countryside, but they came from his war years, typical of an Eastern European workforce.” Papier-mâché was used to construct a fringe-like texture, alongside laser cutting, hand-cut fringing, fabric blocking and zips. “I got really fascinated by the biker subculture in Western movies, and I was able to translate and subtly merge it with our brand pillars,” said the designer of a more sportswear mood shift in the collection, guided by a never-ending investigation into comfortable clothing.OKOBOR, the signature alt-leather that Nanushka trademarked, ran throughout the collection mingling, at times, with a form of regenerated leather partly made from a compression of unwanted leather offcuts, on a journey of sustainability. “I used the regenerated leather to give more structure to the silhouettes, as in coats. While for lighter blouses and puffy looks, OKOBOR is our first choice,” Sándor said.Following a recent relaunch of its new identity, Nanushka has a monogram on satins and leathers, borrowing symbols from wooden totems that decorate the showroom, as well as origami bag locks. The menswear section presented a new type of recycled cashmere. With the 20th anniversary of the birth of the brand approaching, the team behind Nanushka is gathering new ideas to enrich the business. “My mother was in the kidswear industry, and I’d love to implement that segment in the business in the future,” said Sándor.
15 June 2024
For fall, Nanushka’s Sandra Sándor went back to memory lane to her teenage years growing up in Hungary. Before the fall of the Iron Curtain in 1989, crossing borders was forbidden; fashion was anathema. Sándor and her family traveled extensively within the country, so her sense of fashion was initially shaped by the utilitarian folklore of local rural communities’ traditional costumes. It was only later that she came across fashion magazines from the US :“It was a revelation,” she said. “It opened up an entirely new world. I was in love.”The co-ed collection was about layers of personal memories: “I wanted to look at myself, going at the roots of my style; it’s the ‘90s seen through the eyes of a Hungarian teenager,” said Sándor. She referenced the raw beauty of the shepherds’ coats made from the curly vellum of racka sheep as well as the midriff-baring tops and the leggy minidresses worn by supermodels in the pages ofVogue; the sporty zip-up sweaters her father used to wear for tennis tournaments were as strong an inspiration as the sturdy black leather biker jacket of a rider boyfriend. They were translated by Sándor into Nanushka’s utilitarian, minimalist wear, whose understated feel was elevated this season by luxurious textures and a focus on crafted surfaces.Standouts in the gender fluid lineup were voluminous nomadic coats and waistcoats in white faux fur mimicking racka sheepskin, cropped boxy jackets in soft tech velvet quilted with traditional Kopjafa symbols, and maxi A-line city coats and protective capes in black regenerated leather bonded in shearling. Sándor continued to expand the research on sustainable fabrics and treatments, in keeping with Nanushka’s ethos of responsible production; the upcycled OKOBOR (the label’s trademark alt-leather) was rendered into an elastic seersucker smocked fabric, while a faux sheep hide featured a thick, compact texture and a smooth, soft finish.
4 March 2024
Today, a fashion show with no screaming crowds and no celebrities in the front row is apparently not worth the attention. Is fashion becoming just an extension of the entertainment industry? “It’s about the Attention Olympics now,” remarked Peter Baldaszti, Nanushka’s CEO. “We are not into that at all,” chimed in Sandra Sándor, the label’s creative director.What the brand’s cofounders are after is a rather different approach. They call it quiet luxury. Sándor reflected, “We don’t want to be too loud; we think that the focus should be on the product, on the actual fashion proposition. The quality, the details, and the beauty of the items we create should do the talking.”Since it began, Nanushka has embraced strict codes of sustainability; stylewise, its industrial, urban, utilitarian look is inflected with elements rooted in the Hungarian tradition of folklore. Sándor called it “our new heritage, a blend of innovative craft, function, and beauty.” The fall offering, presented in the label’s showroom, expanded on those codes, experimenting with new silhouettes, introducing modularity as a play on maximum versatility, and proposing modern renditions of Hungarian ornate symbols and decorative references.The collection was called Shape Shifting; Sándor had garments morph into different shapes through zipping-unzipping and fastening-unfastening activities, while elsewhere the shifting happened more conceptually, by transposing feminine silhouettes and detailing into the menswear line, keeping distinctions fluid. For example, waist-cropped boxy jackets were part of masculine suits, while sensuous fringing was applied to men’s capes with matching wrapped kilts. The structured and masculine shifted into the draped and feminine in elongated silhouettes with voluminous accents, modified through cinching, ruching, and tying.While keeping its utilitarian character, the collection had more polish and an inventive feel. The regenerated alt-leather Okobor, satiny in appearance and soft to the touch, was used throughout in slender, long slip dresses and in oversized greatcoats, zippered at the waist to be transformed at will into two separate pieces—a biker jacket and a skirt. “We are committed to making our products stand out; our attention is totally focused on that,” concluded Sándor. “We need no brand ambassadors.”
4 March 2023
Sandra Sandor and her husband Peter Baldaszti are proof that, beyond the obvious requirement of initial financing, what’s needed most to run a successful fashion brand is clarity of vision. They seem to have it in spades. Their brainchild Nanushka, where Sandor is creative director and Baldaszti is chief executive, made the Financial Times’s 1000—a list of the 1,000 fastest growing companies in Europe—last year.This season they kept the label’s presentation rather low-key in a Paris showroom—not that they’re after grand gestures, their no-waste, sustainable, socially responsible ethos doesn’t make room for pyrotechnics. The difficult situation in the region around Ukraine (which borders Hungary, where the company is based), has caused glitches in the production chain, but their spring collection has an upbeat vibe. Sandor said that she was looking at craft and tradition as her main creative drivers, acknowledging the strength and humanity of the handmade.Hungarian heritage was her source of inspiration. “We wanted to revitalize its century-old craft techniques, translating them into our world,” she explained. “It’s like bringing to life a new heritage, approaching it in an innovative way.” While functionality, unfussy design, and an industrial-artsy spirit remain at the core of Sandor’s beliefs, decoration was introduced as an appealing accent. Turanian ornaments from Transilvania were rendered into graphic motifs, block-printed on genderless cotton shirts and matching drawstring shorts, embroidered on slouchy hand-knitted cotton jumpers, or printed in diamond-shaped patterns on denim truck jackets and matching straight pants. Crochet textures and trimmings also highlighted the expressive artisanal flair Sandor wanted to emphasize.Vegan alt leather is one of the cornerstones of the company’s sustainable practice; its updated version is made with less water usage than previous iterations. Supple and satiny to the touch, it was rendered into clean-shaped wardrobe staples, combining practicality and the feel-good factor that comes from knowing that what you’re wearing is less harmful to the planet. Dungarees, biker jackets, elongated dusters, and bell-bottom flares worn under shapely fringed minidresses had slight imperfections, due to the no-waste tailoring process Sandor is committed to. “ There’s beauty in imperfection,” she said, “as embracing the artisanal is always about leaving room for accidents and creative surprises.”
18 October 2022
As a new mother, Sandra Sandor says she has been experiencing “strong sensations and experiences in relation to my body” and learning “what it’s capable of and how it’s changing and adapting.” Wanting to explore that idea materially, she landed on the theme of “the beauty of imperfection,” or, as the press release states, “flaws.” I balk at the judgment implied in these terms, which also, in my opinion, overstate the case. What’s at play here is mostly asymmetry. The notched cut of a regenerated leather jacket, and the off-kilter neckline in a knit top are unexpected and playful in the context of Nanushka’s orderly and minimalist aesthetic, which, as always, is applied across men’s and women’s categories.Sandor said she and the team wanted “to reject the conventional notions of gender,” but that felt a bit like virtue signaling. It’s not that the clothes aren’t inclusive—the brand’s clean-lined and simple shapes have always been interchangeable among wearers regardless of gender—but no corners are turned in this collection. Rather, in keeping with Sandor’s approach to design, it’s an evolution of what’s come before. The difference this season is that the designer has allowed for more wiggle room than usual.
30 June 2022
Sandra Sandor and Peter Baldaszti are the young husband-and-wife duo behind the Hungarian brand Nanushka, which they founded in 2006 and steered to international success. Living in Hungary at this moment in time means you cannot avoid the consequences of the conflict between Russia and Ukraine, which borders Hungary.Deciding to show in Paris for Fashion Week wasn’t an obvious choice. Although the designers considered canceling their presentation, describing the present situation as “unimaginable,” they resolved to keep going. “We felt responsible for the people involved in the event, for our vendors and partners,” said Baldaszti, who’s also the CEO of Vanguards Group, Nanushka’s owner. “We’re a small company, and the impact of canceling an event like this when many people are dependent on us would be more severe than we could manage.” So they decided to use the event to raise attention to what’s going on in Ukraine. Sandor said: “People think that fashion is a shallow industry, and it’s weird to put fashion in scale with what’s happening now in the world, it’s hard to even talk about the collection. But if we had any other job, we’d go on and still go to work. Fashion is our job.”The presentation was held in a salon within the sumptuous Palais Garnier, but the atmosphere was subdued and calm, with the Brussels-based classical quartet Echo Collective playing soulful music. At the end of the presentation, they performed the Ukrainian national anthem, with models standing on rotating plinths, wearing makeup in tribute of the colors of the Ukrainian flag.Sandor kept the collection anchored to the principles of “industrial bohemian chic,” as she put it, referencing the Bauhaus ethos that well designed, functional objects are inherently beautiful. Everyday pieces were minimal, unfussy and easy to layer; blazers were soft-tailored and workwear-inspired; roomy trench coats and padded belted wrap coats were made in vegan leather, sustainable practices being one of Sandor’s commitments. “I never compromise on this, and on craftsmanship, it gives a different value to a garment as it taps into emotional values,” she said.Sandor and Balaszti are standing in solidarity with the Ukrainian people through direct involvement with the Hungarian Charity Service of the Order of Malta, providing accommodation, clothing and transport to refugees crossing the Ukrainian border to seek shelter in Hungary.
“I can really relate to what’s happening because I’m from a country which was under Russian invasion from 1956 to 1989; my parents and grandparents grew up in communism,” explained Sandor. “It seems so farfetched, but the conflict is actually happening two hundred kilometers from Budapest,” added Balaszti. “The fact that what happened to us in 1956 is again happening to a neighboring country in 2022 is just unimaginable. Hungary has opened its borders to refugees; there’s no filter, anyone can come and be helped. It’s estimated that in the next few weeks more than 600,000 people will come to Hungary, so we’re pledging to give any kind of support we can. Every bit of help is needed, not only food and shelter but also work. We’re contacting huge manufacturing companies so they can have refugees working in their factories, or we’ll provide support to maintain their businesses—because work is dignity, and dignity has been stripped away from the Ukrainian people.”
1 March 2022
Elevatedhas to be one of the most used adjectives in fashion, and most often when designers give a classic or functional piece their own spin, which is what Sandra Sandor and her team focused on doing for pre-fall. The hoodie, for example, was reimagined in double wool, while padding gave Teva-like sandals a new look. The brand also iterated on its own signatures, including pajama separates, oversized blazers (this time in regenerated leather), and cutout knits. An ornamental print for menswear built on motifs from the spring collection as well.The team’s play on wrapping, which resulted in a fringed blanket skirt and a scarf-top of vegan leather worn with a bouclé knit skirt, was most notable.
15 December 2021
Having reconnected with nature while spending lockdown in her country home, Sandra Sandor shifted her focus back to the city for spring. The designer, who is pregnant with her first child, based this collection, called Harmónia, on memories of her upbringing in Budapest. In keeping with that theme, Sandor played with Hungarian crafts and symbolism in her lineup. “Taking inspiration from our own genuine surroundings and real environment just felt right to do this season,” explained design director Ahinaa Zita Perjési, who walkedVoguevirtually through the collection in Sandor’s stead.Sandor and team delivered the cool girl and guy essentials they are known for by tweaking their core tailoring and knitwear to speak to current trends, like workwear and cutouts. The use of lingerie buttons for reveals was especially effective; and a men’s set in terrycloth was unexpected in a good way. But what elevated this offering from solid to something extra was the way Sandor translated local practices in ways that felt personal. The “tablecloth” pieces with Kalotaszegi embroidery was airy and connected to the everyday. More mystical were the printed and knit looks with traditional kopjafa iconography, including flowers, crescent moons, and stars (representing wife, young woman, and mourning, respectively) to which were added brand markers, like a gothicNfor Nanushka. There was another kind of personal connection at play in this collection as well: The trench with the removable storm flat was made in collaboration with the most recent participant inThe Nanushka Design for Life Mentorship Program, Abhijeet Kaur.
6 October 2021
Having reconnected with nature while spending lockdown in her country home, Sandra Sandor shifted her focus back to the city for spring. The designer, who is pregnant with her first child, based this collection, called Harmónia, on memories of her upbringing in Budapest. In keeping with that theme, Sandor played with Hungarian crafts and symbolism in her lineup. “Taking inspiration from our own genuine surroundings and real environment just felt right to do this season,” explained design director Ahinaa Zita Perjési, who walkedVoguevirtually through the collection in Sandor’s stead.Sandor and team delivered the cool girl and guy essentials they are known for by tweaking their core tailoring and knitwear to speak to current trends, like workwear and cutouts. The use of lingerie buttons for reveals was especially effective; and a men’s set in terrycloth was unexpected in a good way. But what elevated this offering from solid to something extra was the way Sandor translated local practices in ways that felt personal. The “tablecloth” pieces with Kalotaszegi embroidery was airy and connected to the everyday. More mystical were the printed and knit looks with traditional kopjafa iconography, including flowers, crescent moons, and stars (representing wife, young woman, and mourning, respectively) to which were added brand markers, like a gothicNfor Nanushka. There was another kind of personal connection at play in this collection as well: The trench with the removable storm flat was made in collaboration with the most recent participant inThe Nanushka Design for Life Mentorship Program, Abhijeet Kabur.
6 October 2021
From the start, Nanushka has been a brand where minimalism and “sustainability” have been intertwined. This is really smart positioning. It’s not always easy, however, to weave a narrative around cleaned-lined clothes. And honestly, the customer who falls for a white collared pink terry polo shirt, an eco-nylon pleated skirt that looks like a fairy’s wing, or slip dress in lucky-clover green, probably isn’t looking for one anyway.Nanushka clothes are easy to read and wear, that’s their strength. And much of their innovation is in responsible textile innovation. It might be splitting hairs, but it seems a misnomer to describe this resort collection as being inspired by Arte Povera (Poor Art). Poor in this case refers to the humble, quotidian materials the members of the group used so innovatively. It’s easy to see how Sandor, who has long made use of non-precious things like rope, pottery, and wood in her work, would feel an affinity with that aspect of the movement. But many of the Arte Povera artists were anti-consumerists who rebelled against established systems like galleries (the fashion equivalent of boutiques), so there’s a disconnect.In any case, Sandor’s starting inspiration was more specific. The designer’s discovery of the Arte Povera artist Luciano Fabro’s bed linen series motivated her to look for new materials and ways to use crisp cotton. Sandor explains that the sheets Fabro used were made from humble cotton percale, a material she hasn’t been able to source, but which appeals to her because of its “rawness” and durability, the latter of which is a key element of sustainable thinking. Look for more of the embroidered cotton pieces, for men and women, in Nanushka’s spring collection. It would be nice to see more items from the brand’s new beachwear line then, too. A neat unisex tank with stitches that almost resembled caning provided a peek at the offering.On the heels of the Halston docuseries, a pair of pants made of Ultrasuede from the same company the late American designer used stood out, especially as its texture provided a nice contrast to the many vegan leather pieces in the collection. (One of the best was an orange mini slip with an asymmetric flange.) Also soft to the touch was a printed velvet. The “hazy floral” botanical print was created by Janet Lee, who participated in the Nanushka Design for Life Mentorship Program, and will receive 20% of sales of the look. Now that’s a story to crow about.
25 June 2021
If we can accept that clothing should not be disposable, maybe we can also come around to the idea that concepts and narratives can be revisited. That’s just what Sandra Sandor has done for fall. Having introduced the timely theme of Surrealism for pre-fall, she effectively buids on it this season.True to her minimalist leanings, Sandor relegates the most direct Surrealist references to the collection film, and is more subtle about incorporating them into the clothes. The pleated “wing” flying from the center back of a men’s jacket, for example, is removable. A dramatic top and belt, both with rope fringe to the floor, are effective show pieces; a fringed scarf translates the idea for the real world.Knits are a strong category for Nanushka, and are also lockdown-friendly. For fall the options run from lounge-y (a white ribbed zip top and pants set) to sophisticated (a cape coat with dramatic collar). Also at play is a hard/soft dichotomy, the latter best exemplified by a glamorous pink silky bolero-wrap. Adding texture is a rippled ribbon fabric of recycled polyester (see the sleek hooded top) that Sandor says we’ll be seeing more of.The designer indicates that she’ll also keep doing suiting, which seems counterintuitive in a work from home world. “There is always a debate in the industry about whether tailoring is going to slow down or not, but actually we see potential there, or room in the market still,” said Sandor on a call, “especially in, we call it neo-tailoring.” She gives as an example the collection’s must-have stirrup pants made from a suiting fabric. These have a winning, sporty quality—with legs.
23 February 2021
Sandra Sandor’s spring 2021 collection was inspired by the reconnection she felt to nature after quarantining in the Hungarian countryside. For pre-fall, the designer’s inspiration is more closely related to interior design. An abstract picture frame she encountered brought back memories of the Jean Cocteau prints hanging in her parents’ home. The Surrealists were Sandor’s introduction to the fine arts, and the movement, which was known for its strange juxtapositions and symbolism, inspired her new collection.Don’t go looking for painted lobsters à la Salvador Dali and Elsa Schiaparelli, though. Sandor’s take on Surrealism is so subtle as to be almost unnoticeable visually (minus some asymmetric sleeve shapes and color-blocked jeans)—and that’s okay. What she seems to have taken away from her initial inspiration is a sense of optimism and play. Her challenge was to reconcile Surrealism with Sandorisms. “I was thinking, how could I manifest this in a way that I will be happy with the final aesthetic of the collection?” she explained on a call. “I kind of figured that the only way that could happen is to juxtapose [the irregular, Surrealistic aspects] with something very minimal and basic.”The result is a play of opposites: a vegan leather boiler suit softened with a macrame belt, for example, or a pink knit ensemble (a work-from-home dream) whose cables are applied with playful irregularity. On the accessories front, Eye of Horus-inspired sunglasses with ball weighted chains in place of arms and draped velvet flats are most closely aligned with the Surrealist theme.
5 January 2021
Sandra Sandor quarantined in the Hungarian countryside where she renewed her connection with the natural world. “I was really in the middle of nowhere,” she says via Zoom. “ I was so shocked that I felt so different in the middle of nature than in the city. And then it made me think what does nature do to me, that makes me feel so different? I felt that it has this kind of transformative power or this kind of balancing power.” The designer mined this enriching experience for resort, and evolved the concept for spring, moving, as she indicated in her show notes from “a pause, a moment of contemplation,” toward active engagement with the world.She went about doing this by using many natural materials and incorporating a lot of handicraft into the collection, while maintaining her price points. As a result, there is a lot of macramé, used winningly as sleeves on a button-front shirtdress with a bra top, and on a fringed boho vest closed with a ceramic shell, another seasonal motif.Though titled Natural Order, this collection was less cohesive than some of her others. There seemed to be less crossover between the men’s and women’s offerings, for starters. Flowered pants and shorts for the guys and a belted jumpsuit were highlights. There was a broad range of looks for women, but overall, spring found Sandor moving slightly away from the oversize looks of previous seasons and toward more shapely ones.What this collection has is a lot of options; what it lacks is a lot of waste. Nanushka has always been focused on sustainability—note the upcycled jersey patchworked tee and a many-patterned sweater dress knitted from deadstock yarn. This season, Sandor reported proudly, “59% of the collection is fully sustainable, which is the most we’ve achieved so far.”
25 September 2020
Though designed using technology that enabled social distancing, Nanushka’s resort collection is inspired by the natural world, in large part because Sandra Sandor spent her lockdown in the Hungarian countryside. There she reaffirmed her connection to the outdoors and the “balancing and transformative powers” of spending time in it. That resulted in a collection of tonal hues and what the designer described as “rustic” textures. Patchwork “fur” and “leather” trenches, high-waisted pants, and velvet bodysuits, which were, however, geared toward city life.As sustainability is at the heart of the brand—Sandor reports that 52% of the fall collection was sourced from sustainable materials—the nature connection wasn’t a stretch. And while the lineup didn’t stray from formula, it delivered the easy separates that have made Nanushka so successful so quickly. They also speak to the way many people are living and dressing now, which is much more relaxed and casual. “I have always loved the home/leisure aesthetic,” said Sandor on a call. “It’s been one of the pillars of the brand, and with the pandemic and all these features that people were talking about, it reassures me to continue with supercomfortable [looks].”That vibe came across most strongly in menswear pieces, especially notable was a pair of fluid drawstring/pajama pants with a black-and-white rose print, and it’s not hard to see these being worn by any gender. A light, side-slit midiskirt and soft silky blouses likewise spoke to a sense of ease. Adding a homey touch throughout were buttons made in a ceramic studio in Hungary. Also of note is that some of the resort looks are styled with pieces from the soon-to-launch Symbols collection of androgynous pieces like hoodies, T-shirts, and scarves.Asked if she thinks post-pandemic life will tend more toward the minimal or the escapist, Sandor had this to say: “I think that functionality, versatility, durability, longevity—all these are aspects that are going to be even more important than ever, but I don’t feel that fantasy, arts, or self-expression will not have a role in fashion.” Maybe that’s just part of human nature, which, by the way, is the title of this resort collection.
17 July 2020
“Bourgeois grunge” was the headline at Sandra Sandor’s hybrid presentation/show for Nanushka, the young brand that counts north of 350,000 followers and fans including Kaia Gerber. During Paris Fashion Week, the young supermodel appeared on the brand’s Instagram wearing a vegan leather blazer from Nanushka’s resort collection as she dashed from one backstage to the next. (Matthias Geerts also appears wearing the Hide jacket).On the subject of vegan leather—worked variously for fall in glossy, fluid trousers, jackets, shoes, and a new knot bag — the designer explained that her leather is half faux, and half recycled, and regenerated from scraps thanks to a special technology. “It’s a great alternative to virgin resources,” she noted, adding that using faux leather in this way has just one-third the impact of real leather. One of the most compelling looks was a mixed-material trench, made of regenerated leather spliced together with tweed made from GRS-certified post-consumer polyester. Fully 52% of this collection is sustainably produced, Sandor added.Elsewhere, the designer set about juxtaposing intellectual bourgeois classics with the rebellious spirit of grunge, the trend that got her hooked on fashion in the first place. Nonetheless the collection skewed more ’70s than ’90s, with easy pieces like elongated tunic tops, a crocheted overlay, wide, contrasting lapels on a blazer, or a wrap dress with painterly stripes. Easy, tailored pieces are exactly what Nanushka’s base shops her New York store in search of; in the weeks ahead, fans in London will be able to do likewise at the brand’s new store in Bruton Street, Mayfair (the e-commerce site has been streamlined too, of late).New this season was a collaboration with the London-based jewelry brand Alighieri, with nine Brutalist-inspired pieces that “examine what it means to be a woman in modern society,” the show notes explained. That’s a whole lot to expect from a cuff whose job is to sit there and look pretty—which it did perfectly well.
4 March 2020
Designers planning to launch a career in the 2020s might consider using Nanushka as a case study in establishing a sustainable niche business without paying New York rents. Based in her hometown of Budapest, Sandra Sandor has found a global following for her responsible, minimal take on boho style. The designer, building on the successful opening of her first New York boutique, goes from strength to strength with a coherent collection that is executed in harmonious earth tones and features soft recycled cashmere and oversize knits. A one-sleeve sweaterdress can be worn as is for a night on the town or over a turtleneck in the office. Comfort, warmth, and layering are built into this collection, and so is texture. Sandor says she’s particularly excited about the pleated vegan leather pieces. Expect more of those for fall 2020. She’s proud, too, of finding ways to use deadstock materials in patchwork pieces.For pre-fall the designer wanted to evoke an air of monastic simplicity and combine it with a feeling of 1990s grunge. This is signaled, rather than shouted, via slouchy suits and boots. She traces this aspect of the collection to the time she spent in New York leading up to the store opening. Says Sandor, “That kind of ’90s grunge feels linked to American culture.”
12 December 2019
For more than a decade now, Sandra Sandor has been quietly building her brand at home in Budapest, where she has a flagship concept store. It wasn’t long before retailers like Bergdorf Goodman, Browns, and Net-a-Porter caught on. Now, with new investors and Sandor’s fiancé, Peter Baldaszti, as CEO, Nanushka is poised to go global—notably by opening a store on Wooster Street in New York this fall. And where better than Paris to say it to the world?“Nanushka has always stood for practicality, functionality, and comfort—that was even the theme of my college thesis [at the London College of Fashion],” the designer said in an interview during her presentation. “I really think that good design has to be functional as well. The clothes I wear most are the ones I feel really easy in.” Her constant inspirations include Bauhaus, distant cultures, and tribal references transposed for an urban context.For Spring the designer looked to Greece through a very specific style prism: the summer of 1972, when Loulou de la Falaise was photographed in Patmos wearing a simple swath of fabric as a turban, for example. That translated into elevated basics in sun-washed colors of organic cotton and jersey. Workhorse pieces included vegan-leather jackets, fringed trousers in organic cotton, and travel-friendly separates in tech linen. One could almost picture the French style icon in a lime dress that had all the ease of a sari, or the printed, draped halter neck and woven skirt. Although most of the oversized bags pictured here are not intended for retail (yet), they point to Nanushka’s ambitions in accessories. Sandor has a taste for handicrafts, which she put to work here in fringe, fishnet overlays, and ceramic buttons produced in the Hungarian village of Terény by a cooperative that strives to help women hone their skills and earn a living through traditional crafts. As for the massive macramé hanging made just for this event, Sandor is considering repurposing it for her upcoming nuptials next May. The year 2020 is shaping up to be a milestone for this little brand—it will be interesting to see what happens next.
1 October 2019
Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor named her second menswear collection and first Paris presentation Come As You Are, but lest this instantly lead you to the Nirvana classic, she was tapping into a state of mind. “When your intention is not so much to impress with your dressing, but much more about daring to express your style,” she explained. Sandor elaborated that vacations are most conducive to this, as you’re usually less preoccupied with how others perceive you.And so, from a school courtyard that evoked a private oasis in Rome, male models (and a few girls, too) looked to be on a holiday that might have taken place in the 1950s, only on closer inspection, their outfits were all updated and very much urban in attitude. The main giveaway: her recalibrated volumes—jackets were slouchier and sportier, shorts signaled city rather than beach, and the styling felt pleasingly off-the-cuff. Beyond this, batik and woodblock digital prints had a convincing handmade touch and brought liveliness to certain looks that otherwise leaned too beige. “Bohemian minimalist,” was how the Budapest-based designer put it.Sandor has been sustainability minded since the beginning, and her application of vegan leather to tailoring was a justified point of pride. Given the finesse of the pants, shirt, and windbreaker-style jacket—in feel and in fit—she could push even further into the category and make it a real signature. The jacket in crocheted leather, for now just a prototype, would suggest she’ll have more to show off next season, whether or not she returns to Paris.
24 June 2019
Nanushka designer Sandra Sandor named her second menswear collection and first Paris presentation Come As You Are, but lest this instantly lead you to the Nirvana classic, she was tapping into a state of mind. “When your intention is not so much to impress with your dressing, but much more about daring to express your style,” she explained. Sandor elaborated that vacations are most conducive to this, as you’re usually less preoccupied with how others perceive you.And so, from a school courtyard that evoked a private oasis in Rome, male models (and a few girls, too) looked to be on a holiday that might have taken place in the 1950s, only on closer inspection, their outfits were all updated and very much urban in attitude. The main giveaway: her recalibrated volumes—jackets were slouchier and sportier, shorts signaled city rather than beach, and the styling felt pleasingly off-the-cuff. Beyond this, batik and woodblock digital prints had a convincing handmade touch and brought liveliness to certain looks that otherwise leaned too beige. “Bohemian minimalist,” was how the Budapest-based designer put it.Sandor has been sustainability minded since the beginning, and her application of vegan leather to tailoring was a justified point of pride. Given the finesse of the pants, shirt, and windbreaker-style jacket—in feel and in fit—she could push even further into the category and make it a real signature. The jacket in crocheted leather, for now just a prototype, would suggest she’ll have more to show off next season, whether or not she returns to Paris.
25 June 2019
Budapest designer Sandra Sandor debuted menswear at her Fall presentation today in a homey ’70s-inspired set, energized by live music. The context worked for her clothes, which are quite livable, combining comfort, simplicity, and function at a great price point. You might call her aesthetic minimal nomad, and there’s a straightforwardness to her designs that makes menswear a natural extension of what she does.Men were buying from the women’s collection before Sandor was designing for them. Now, she designs both collections at the same time; think more brother and sister than boy- and girlfriend. “When I look at it as a whole, I [see a] kind of fluid bond between genders. I really feel that’s where we are going, and where fashion is going—in a genderless direction,” said the designer, who titled her lineup “mystery child.” And really, who could resist a swirl of an intarsia paisley cardigan or a roomy, textured coat in pink or lilac?This season Sandor expanded from her preferred muted ’70s color palette, adding welcome touches of color. She also played with transparency, using both organza and a certified vinyl with a tortoise-like pattern. Sustainability is the cornerstone ofNanushka(the brand’s signature piece is a vegan leather puffer, which was back for Fall along with matching bags) and the designer used faux fur for outerwear and accessories. Earrings, bag handles, and heels made of reclaimed wood were the result of a collaboration with Sophie Monet. Now that she has a men’s line, Sandor says she feels freer to play with more feminine and form-hugging, though never body-con, looks for women. A silk ensemble in pink was evidence of this and captured the mood—optimistic, playful, free-spirited—that Sandor said had inspired the collections.
9 February 2019
Budapest designer Sandra Sandor debuted menswear at her Fall presentation today in a homey ’70s-inspired set, energized by live music. The context worked for her clothes, which are quite livable, combining comfort, simplicity, and function at a great price point. You might call her aesthetic minimal nomad, and there’s a straightforwardness to her designs that makes menswear a natural extension of what she does.Men were buying from the women’s collection before Sandor was designing for them. Now, she designs both collections at the same time; think more brother and sister than boy- and girlfriend. “When I look at it as a whole, I [see a] kind of fluid bond between genders. I really feel that’s where we are going, and where fashion is going—in a genderless direction,” said the designer, who titled her lineup “mystery child.” And really, who could resist a swirl of an intarsia paisley cardigan or a roomy, textured coat in pink or lilac?This season Sandor expanded from her preferred muted ’70s color palette, adding welcome touches of color. She also played with transparency, using both organza and a certified vinyl with a tortoise-like pattern. Sustainability is the cornerstone ofNanushka(the brand’s signature piece is a vegan leather puffer, which was back for Fall along with matching bags) and the designer used faux fur for outerwear and accessories. Earrings, bag handles, and heels made of reclaimed wood were the result of a collaboration with Sophie Monet. Now that she has a men’s line, Sandor says she feels freer to play with more feminine and form-hugging, though never body-con, looks for women. A silk ensemble in pink was evidence of this and captured the mood—optimistic, playful, free-spirited—that Sandor said had inspired the collections.
9 February 2019
Sandra Sandor founded Nanushka in 2005 and recently expanded the business, picking up a sizable following of discerning women around the world. They’re drawn to her signature faux leather puffers, satin sarongs, and denim dresses because they capture a sort of earthy minimalism—and, just as important, are mostly priced under $700. Nanushka is a hot ticket at e-tailers like Net-a-Porter. A few months ago, Sandor opened her first flagship store in Budapest. It’s the only place you’ll find the entire collection.Suffice to say, 2018 has been a whirlwind year for Sandor. Pre-Fall is a study in Nanushka’s best-sellers, but with more of a ’70s tilt than in seasons past. Sandor said she was specifically looking at ’70s architecture and interior design, hence the wild animal prints and sandy palette. She applied her signature sarong detail—a nod to Budapest’s East-meets-West clash of cultures—to maxi skirts and loose trousers, and her puffer coat came in glossy satin for the first time. The best pieces were arguably the other coats: A rosy, double-face wool topcoat felt loftier than cashmere and had the unstructured, shrugged-on ease many women are looking for right now. A similar style came in brown check with a deep trim of fringe, so it looked like a giant blanket, and there were a few new faux leather trenches. All of them felt more luxurious than their under-four-figure price tags.
12 December 2018
Nanushka, the brand Sandra Sandor founded in Budapest in 2005, began to expand internationally about two years ago and made its New York Fashion Week debut last season. The designer and team were back for Spring with an immersive presentation that involved drinks, pungent incense, and a performance by sound bath artist Katie Down. There was a lot going on with the clothes, too.The collision of East and West that is characteristic of Budapest has seeped into Sandor’s work; this season, she ambitiously tried to lasso the rodeo and ancient Egypt together. The designer, who describes herself as spiritual, embroidered the protective Eye of Horus on sweatshirt separates and borrowed the (sometimes bulky)shentiknotting technique on silk satins and knits. The looks, shown in a presentation format, were also heavily accessorized with pieces from Sandor’s new jewelry collection (of note were the brass snake and leopard earrings) and bags. This was a collection that was too diverse to be cohesive; still, there were standout pieces like a button-front sepia denim dress and jacket of the same stuff; and a printed kimono and jumpsuit in an abstract paisley print. Among the designer’s favorite looks are a beige belted V-neck trench and a geometric riff on the Teva sandal—both made of vegan leather.What’s happening behind the scenes at Nanushka is as important as the season’s offerings. For Spring, the designer made the big decision to use only vegan leather. Within five years, Sandor would like to have a sustainable brand, and to that end she’s working with theEllen MacArthur Foundationto get there. Sandor’s commitment to sustainability practices that will support a circular economy are sure to have a positive karmic return.
14 September 2018
In millennial parlance, Nanushka is killing it. Designer and founder Sandra Sandor launched the line out of Budapest back in 2005, and staged her first presentation at New York Fashion Week back in February. It was a success, and she’s planning her return in September. Much of her rise to prominence comes down to the years she spent growing and developing the brand, a few smart business decisions, and a full-on embrace of the influencer market. Like many designers, Sandor has come to realize that women with sincere, dedicated Instagram followings can move a lot more product than traditional advertising.All that aside, Nanushka also just makes beautiful, uncomplicated clothes you don’t think twice about buying. They feel relevant but not “trendy,” and the prices are good. She describes most of her collections as a mash-up of East and West, a by-product of her upbringing in Hungary, where cultures converged and clashed after the fall of the Iron Curtain. Resort found her working along those lines again: The denim dresses and shirts were vaguely Western (i.e., American), while the “Eastern” vibe came in the form of lavender silk blouses, baroque pearl embellishments, and obi belts.What felt newest were the “rustic” touches informed by the Hungarian countryside: rumpled cotton dresses, linen trousers, and lots of brown vegan leather. Her best-selling vegan puffer came in a longer silhouette, and the shell-pink faux leather trousers, dresses, and trench coats felt so soft, you’d swear they were real. On that note, she introduced her first vegan accessories here: crossbody bags, fanny packs, and drawstring pouches in neutral, croc-embossed faux leather. They should open the brand up to women looking for chic, high-quality, animal-free bags and shoes.
19 June 2018
Sandra Sandor has been waiting patiently to join the Fashion Week calendar—13 years, in fact. She launched Nanushka in her native Budapest, Hungary, back in 2005, and it’s been a slow, thoughtful journey. Those who are just discovering the brand might assume it’s a young up-and-comer, and to the Western world, it sort of is. The past few years have been Nanushka’s breakthrough, thanks in part to a few savvy business moves, but it’s social media that really got it in front of a global audience. Last season, Nanushka became the first Hungarian brand to be sold on Net-a-Porter, a highly influential retailer that openly embraces the power of the social media star (and might even factor it into buying decisions). You’ll notice many of the site’s product descriptions now include references to influencers who have worn the piece; a denim Nanushka dress available now drops Camille Charrière’s name, for example.Many of those influencers were in attendance at the brand’s first presentation, set in an open, airy penthouse on Bank Street. It was easy to see why their selfies move product. Not only are the clothes wallet-friendly—the price point is “contemporary,” but the quality surpasses other labels in that category—but a serious fashion fan can appreciate them too. They’re simple, restrained pieces with artful touches, and register as “basics” to the discerning woman. Fall 2018 had an East-meets-West sensibility that reflected Sandor’s upbringing in Budapest; she was born just before the fall of the Iron Curtain and witnessed the fascinating culture clash that followed. Her references are subtle, though: An obi-style wrap dress came in beige acid-wash denim, for instance; a sporty melange knit had a freshwater pearl dangling from the zipper; and every look was punctuated with abstract wooden earrings by Sophie Monet. The mix felt more item-driven than a full “collection,” per se, but that doesn’t really matter in 2018; women shop on an item-by-item basis, and they don’t know (or care) which season they’re buying.It’s worth noting that vegan leather is a strong suit for Nanuskha, too. There was a faultless pair of cherry-red trousers, plus a faux-leather wrap dress that’s become something of a core item for the label. The low mules and babouche slippers were made with real leather in Morocco, but Sandor is hoping to make everything vegan soon—another hint that Nanushka is headed in the right direction.
12 February 2018