Nobuyuki Matsui (Q3523)

Nobuyuki Matsui postponed his presentation this season due to concerns over the coronavirus. In these extenuating circumstances, Vogue Runway has made an exception to its policy and is writing about this collection from photos.Online, there are scores of people who’ve chosen to adopt period dress as their primary look. A quick scroll through Instagram, and you can find 2020 incarnations of Edwardian gentleman or Beau Brummell–esque Regency dandies. For those unwilling or unable to deep dive into history, Nobuyuki Matsui offers a compelling solution: modern menswear that uses the past as a reference point rather than a ruling principle. Matsui’s guy may sport a pocket watch on a chain, but his timepiece is digital. Fall found the designer revisiting old-school staples like double-breasted vests, high-waist trousers, and frock coats. Instead of indulging in decorative patterns or embellishment, he kept things streamlined and laser-focused. Back in 1812, that cream waistcoat would have been made in brocade, but Matsui believes less is more.After last season’s all-denim collection, Matsui appears to have had his fill of the material. Only one pair of jeans features among his latest pieces, and it’s dark enough to be mistaken for slim black trousers. Casual fare was replaced by the sense that dressing up was paramount. Dapper items like tailored suits in metallic cyan and crinkle-textured trenches demand a level of commitment. As in the old days, when wearing the appropriate attire was an essential part of being an adult, Matsui’s vision is about carefully considered choices. Men accustomed to haphazard, “I woke up like this” style could be compelled to put in the extra effort and try one of these refined pieces.