Warren Noronha (Q3669)

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Warren Noronha is a fashion house from FMD.
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English
Warren Noronha
Warren Noronha is a fashion house from FMD.

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    London is not the first city you think of for sexy power dressing. Edginess yes. Shock value often. But it’s a rare British designer who keeps an appreciation of the female form at the forefront of his work. In his fourth season, Warren Noronha has emerged as just such a figure, emphasizing sexiness without ever crossing over into trashiness.Noronha knows his way around a curve-enhancing silhouette, scooping out a neckline in a tailored wool dress or fusing a shirt to a low-cut pair of pants in a way that traces every contour. Skinny cropped pants or hip-hugging jeans look good with a strict jacket that melts into an asymmetrical peplum with a waterfall flounce.What Noronha is best at, though, is draping jersey. As they stalked the mirrored runway, his models looked—and clearly felt—drop-dead fabulous in body-loving dresses and tops, which came in either black or an abstract print. Ditching the unnecessary theatrics of past seasons, Noronha gave his audience an unobscured view of a talent that is stepping up to the next level.
    11 September 2002
    Sexy pinstripes may sound like a contradiction in terms, but that's Warren Noronha's contribution to the new interest in tailoring that is taking off in London. In a slick show on a mirrored runway, Noronha struck a blow for the much neglected pantsuit, recutting it without any of the uptight corporate connotations it’s attracted over the past decade.Erin O'Connor set the tone when she strode out wearing a pinstripe bustier with a foulard flounce at the front and matching pants—not exactly career dressing, but drop-dead elegant from head to toe. Other versions had jackets, again with bias cutting falling in subtle folds in front. Noronha said he'd persuaded Savile Row tailors to get him the best menswear material to work with. "I'm trying to make old things fashionable," he said. "You can do anything if you cut it outrageously enough." Noronha, an ex-assistant of Antonio Berardi, also believes in dresses. For this show, some were also done in pieced pinstripes, with corseted midsections, others in silk draped to fall in dippy asymmetrical hemlines. A kimono theme featuring ultrawide sleeves slightly overwhelmed some pieces but, in all, this was a collection that showed conviction and growing accomplishment.
    19 February 2002