William Fan (Q3686)

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William Fan is a fashion house from FMD.
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William Fan
William Fan is a fashion house from FMD.

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    There’s no Berlin Fashion Week without William Fan. But while in recent seasons he has increasingly outdone himself with ever larger shows and even more spectacular locations (Olympic Stadium, a subway tunnel, a television tower), this year’s setting was relatively small. Over croissants and coffee, the designer served not only his new collection but also his first fine jewelry in the gallery of the hotel Chateau Royal.Jewelry needs proximity. It would have been completely lost on a classic runway,” Fan said as he explained the concept behind the design to guests. As the child of two gastronomes, Fan enjoyed Asian cuisine in his childhood. Here, rice grains, chopsticks, and bowls served as blueprints for bracelets, rings, and other jewelry made of silver and pure gold.All around, on models and clothes rails, his new textile creations were also put under the microscope. Following on from his Off Duty collection for fall, On Duty was this season’s theme. The idea was to create workwear that doesn’t play on the usual workwear aesthetic, but still has all the advantages that are necessary for everyday life. Fan’s designs have always been flowing and in no way constricting. But the coming summer pieces are so roomy, his customers may even want to cycle to the office in them.Pleated knitwear ensures comfort, while high collars and layering provide the necessary insulation. Shirts are turned inside-out, polos are worn over coats, and lapels are turned up. Everything looks as if you got dressed in a hurry, took a quick look, and decided to wear your look with pride. This attitude runs through all the knitwear, coats, and tailored looks; despite significantly less pomp and glitter, this collection looks just as enjoyable as the ones before.
    William Fan remains true to himself. He has long maintained the tradition of only sharing the address of his show the day before the actual event. Because, unlike other designers, these locations are unique, often a long drive away, and, the more familiar you are with the designer’s thinking, the more you get an initial feel for the collection. For this season, the venue was the warm-up hall of the Olympic stadium, and as usual we found out only a day ahead of time. Is William Fan swapping brocade for jersey? Maybe he’s actually changing direction?Compared to recent years, it was definitely a major change in the design of his collection. Fan’s standby shirts, coats, and wide pants were represented in new materials, as they are every season, but never gained the upper hand. Instead, knitwear dominated the show and emphasized the laidback luxury of a lineup he called Off Duty. Knits, polos, and slouchy pants were used by Fan as a metaphor for leisure time. His move away from glamour made room for tunics and turtlenecks. Of course, there were also occasional evening elements and party looks, but the beaded bags, for instance, were so big that they would only ever be seen inside a trendy Berlin bar as a day-to-night look after work.Probably the most beautiful tradition of Fan’s is the song he chooses for the show. It is almost always a forgotten tune, but one remains in the memory as an earworm after the show. This time it was “Born Slippy” by Underworld. Because after all, nobody wants to stop partying completely.
    7 February 2024
    Not a season goes by when William Fan doesn’t bring another oldie back to the memory—and playlists—of the guests at his show. This time it was “November Rain” by Guns N’ Roses.Titled “Ceremony,” Fan’s collection was inspired by and designed for the important festivities of life: birthdays, marriage ceremonies, etc. Fashionably, this was summed up under an umbrella of glamorous day-to-night looks, amongst which the unisex wedding outfits in black and white and a colorful finale that nodded to the Pride flag particularly stood out.Stylistically, Fan continues to work with cuts and details that are recognizable to him—think wide-open white shirt collars, rich applications, and voluminous sleeves. The designer is taking steps to become a see-now-buy-now brand; divided into drops, the looks will be available now through next summer.
    Known at Berlin Fashion Week for his standout shows, William Fan opted to forgo a conventional runway this season. Instead, he took over the event space Alhambra Berlin, where he presented not only new looks but also a new direction of his brand. Fan will switch back to a see-now-buy-now principle this year. This collection serves as a small appetizer before the complete changeover in summer; it can be pre-ordered for the next two weeks at the Alhambra, and parts of it can be bought directly.The inspiration behind the little capsule is the festivities surrounding the Lunar New Year. Much of the collection shines in a rich, warm red that, combined with gold, echoes the style of the traditional holiday. Mandarin collars and knit dresses with cheongsam details highlight the Chinese influences on the collection, which additionally revives Fan standbys in sumptuous brocades or sensual creams and beiges. “The idea of a family community and coming together is the main focus,” said the designer.
    19 January 2023
    It wouldn’t be Berlin Fashion Week if at least one of the many designers didn’t work with the aesthetic of the local club culture. Surprisingly, this season it was William Fan, who is one of the most sought-after names on the German fashion scene and is known for very elegant, rich designs. Last season was all about getting together at a table as family or a group of friends; this time the William Fan crowd moved on to nightlife. “Eternity,” the title for spring, is a razor-sharp description of the ecstatic feeling of letting go together. Fashionably, of course, this bridge was marked by a radiant, luminous color palette, metallic fabrics and lots of eveningwear, while the base was mainly characterized by easy William-Fan-staples and delicate Y2K elements. If you’ve ever wondered how low rise pants and a draped top combined with a brocade coat will make you fall in love with going out even more, visit Fan’s store. The unconventional and modern styling of Berlin nightlife was an inspiration for these silhouettes. Or to put it in William Fans words: the joy of trying out new things.
    15 September 2022
    One of the major highlights of Berlin Fashion Week was the show of William Fan, who has been one a favorite among Berlin designers since his debut. In the Hamburger Bahnhof, a museum for contemporary art, he presented his new collection for fall, which he called Host. The ceremony of inviting people over was mainly visualized by a long dining table, which was indeed a perfect setting to celebrate the spirit of coming together in a private atmosphere. At the end of the show, all the models sat down; they chatted with each other and behaved like a very close circle of friends, unimpressed by the show guests, who took a closer look at the clothes they were wearing after Fan’s bow.Layering was an important constant in his collection, as were rich fabrics (like brocade or faux fur) combined with playful fringe and beads sewn into hems. The nearly genderless silhouettes underscored Fan’s knack for balancing work-wear and evening-wear without overloading any looks. Leather belts accentuated waists over short sweaters, colorful sweater vests, and shimmering jackets, while other outfits showcased fine fabrics in full movement.
    Despite the special situation, William Fan can draw positives from last year. His focus was more on the immediate. In comparison to previous years, he felt less distracted and more aware of the environment and people surrounding him, of what was happening on the ground. This inspired his new collection, titled Neighbourhood. “There was no traveling, and so the given, one’s own place, became my focus,” he said. “The collection is about going out again and reaching out to each other, approaching people and getting to know them. After a long time of being at home, I felt the joy of having encounters with my fellow human beings. This was also evident in the way people felt like dressing up again for everyday life and putting on festive clothes.”This season Fan’s signature blue is now joined by black—these more somber looks are broken with bright accessories and represent the hard, sometimes untouchable core of a stranger that can be broken by a sparkle. Chunky canvas and last season’s classic beige continue, joined by a new psychedelic ’70s print in vintage yellow-orange and floral brocades with hand-embroidered crystals. “Sustainability for me starts with the design,” says Fan. “I always perpetuate designs; I want each of my pieces to be long-lasting. Then in new seasons, silhouettes, colors, and fabrics evolve.” For Fan, the theme of neighborhood was extended into the show’s casting: For spring, the barista from his favorite coffee shop and people he met outside a pharmacy walked the runway, which was edged in bright blue tulle.
    8 September 2021
    What is important to me and why? Do clothes have a different meaning for me now that the world runs differently? William Fan considered his values when creating his fall 2021 collection. The designer, who has Chinese roots, is in close contact with his suppliers and production sites in Asia and normally visits them twice a year. His creative process was always closely linked to these trips, but this season everything was different: Fan’s designs are now inspired by stimuli in his direct, local environment. “By simply being present you get to meet new people and you take a closer look at your own city,” says the Berliner. “The special features that otherwise blur in everyday life become valuable and get a new shine.”As in each of his collections, he concerned himself with contrast and balance this season. An almost conservative-looking striped blouse and a saturnine red sequined men’s robe illustrate the wide spectrum of the collection. The play between reality and escape continued in the palette and prints: colors such as dark blue, black, khaki, and white contrasted with emerald green, deep red, and lilac. The collection’s most striking looks were the pleated evening dresses and coats with miniature sequins. Fan hopes that they invite fantasy and evoke optimism. “I don’t believe in fast trends and hype. The faster life gets, the more straightforward and classic I position myself,” he said.
    21 January 2021