Yirantian (Q3713)
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Yirantian is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Yirantian |
Yirantian is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Yirantian Guo started dancing when she was four years old. For spring, she revisited her early passion for the artform. “I called it ‘clap!’” she said with a laugh, explaining that her muse was the Spanish Romani flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, who, according to her research, was the first woman to wear a men’s suit to dance. “I found this an interesting point to start the collection,” said Guo. “It’s similar to the way I create the female figure.”Unlike many of her counterparts on the Shanghai Fashion Week calendar, Guo is preoccupied with dressing a more mature customer rather than pursuing a perennially “young” it-girl. It makes her approach to elegance and sex appeal less dependent on trends and coolness and more grounded in self-confidence and sophistication. It’s this that made Amaya a worthy starting point. The performer is often recognized as the best flamenco dancer in history, and is credited for ushering in a new chapter in its history in the early to mid-20th century, bringing flamenco with her from Spain to Latin America and the United States, and eventually Hollywood.Guo modeled trousers after her, trimming them with bouncy ruffles at the side seams or at the hems. She placed the same frills on modest blouses and diaphanous high-low hem skirts that caressed the floor and then took flight as her models gained momentum. Especially good looking were the larger ruffles that lined the necklines and hips of shorter frocks, and the doubled ruffles that transformed into charming bubble hems on pencil skirts. A pale pink shorts suit was an outlier, but it was Guo’s most faithful and modern interpretation of Amaya in this collection.Where the show really found its rhythm was in a couple of loosely draped halter blouses, sumptuous knit tanks, and liquidy trousers and skirts cut in expressive light silks: They best conveyed the elusive but familiar fluidity of dance and the way in which music moves through one’s body. “The wave of the body is a language,” said Guo.
13 October 2024
Yirantian Guo turned her fall 2024 showspace into a courtroom. Guests sat on wooden benches and had placed leather-bound briefings on each seat. IfThe Good Wifehappened during Fashion Week, Guo’s show was exactly what that would look like.But Guo’s inspiration was not a fabricated character or a woman who exists only within the confines of primetime television (or a streaming platform and a Sunday afternoon binge). “It’s about the working woman,” Guo said backstage after the show, “it’s what she wears every day and what she feels comfortable in.” Case in point, a media executive sitting a few seats over in a full look from the collection couldn’t help but exclaim look after look: “This is for me! It’s what I wear!”Guo is a staple at Shanghai Fashion Week; she’s been a part of the the Labelhood schedule from the very beginning of her showcase, which is also when she launched Yirantian after she graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2014 and returned to Shanghai. Yirantian, as Guo describes it, is about dressing “the urban woman expressing a sense of strength with non-aggressive sexiness.”At one point in its long and storied history, Shanghai became known as “the Paris of the East,” a nickname that nodded at its penchant for decadence and glitz. While the city has since outgrown the moniker to rise as a fashion capital in its own right, this idea of sophistication and glamour still permeates many of its inhabitants—particularly those in the upper echelons. Guo leans into this particular pocket of Shanghainese style and explores its nuances, approaching sensuality through the city’s particular, and oftentimes mature, sartorial language.Guo cut her tailoring sharp and her skirts short, carving vertiginously plunging necklines in her shirting and evening sheaths to contrast fun knit cummerbunds and playful floating shirt collars; both of which delicately subverted the masculine power uniform. She draped suitings into tailored tube tops and leather-trimmed capelets, and fashioned funky trousers and top coats out of shaggy colorblocked shearlings. Guo is often at her best when she takes the contemporary and pushes it into new, kooky territories. This is where her proposal for the working wardrobe took the most compelling shape this season, where she ruled in favor of a woman whose sensuality is rooted in intrigue rather than downright sexiness.
5 April 2024