Zomer (Q3744)

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Zomer is a fashion house from FMD.
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Zomer
Zomer is a fashion house from FMD.

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    In a season already defined by flowers, Zomer took the concept one step further by collaborating with an actual florist. Or make that “floral artists” Debeaulieu, the creators of phenomenal bouquets sent to top editors, A-listers and clients particularly during the collections.Backstage before the show, designer Danial Aitouganov was hard-pressed to pick a favorite bloom, noting that he is partial to bouquets of all kinds, while co-founder Imruh Asha is a lotus guy himself.“We had this idea of how the Zomer garden would look,” Aitouganov offered. With that idea, he went back to the studio and began growing the idea by toying with abstraction, treatments and literal interpretations. The collaboration with Debeaulieu, for example, yielded a couple of showpiece compositions—one made of real blooms, the other of artificial flowers dipped in chrome, a sculpture by Isabel + Helen.On the runway, the clothes really popped. Bright blooms were abstracted as whorls of satin, noodles of fluorescent mesh fringe with pearly beads inside, 3D posies with caviar beading, a poppy umbrella, gatherings of fabric around negative space, patches veiled by overlay, wrinkled neoprene wools, cashmere, silks, organza and printed Ecco leather (on peplum skirts) and a mashup of feather and sequin embroidery on a skirt. Certainly, some of the placements were straight-up saucy, but it was all in good fun. Accessories—limited edition leather bowling sneakers produced in collaboration the Finnish heritage brand Karhu, jewelry by Panconesi—looked covetable too.Meanwhile, in recent months Aitouganov left his day job in the menswear department at Louis Vuitton to dedicate himself fully to Zomer. It showed. On the soundtrack, a runaway train seemed to bear down faster and faster. Its implicit meaning was lost on no-one. The only thing left to do is buckle up and enjoy the ride.
    26 September 2024
    With their sophomore outing, stylist Imruh Asha and designer Danial Aitouganov debuted on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar for Fall. Not bad for a newbie brand.Zomer, the Dutch word for summer, is inspired by its founders’ shared roots and taste for experimentation, sophistication and color. Perhaps the artiest of the Paris up-and-comers, they have already staked out a place in the conceptual clothing space.During a preview, Aitouganov said that the duo’s aim for fall was to “counterbalance muted minimalism with pops of color and a voice that’s off the beaten track from white-brown-black-navy.” A sense of lightness, he added, is a niche in itself—especially when you look at what’s trending on the street. “It lets us cater to different moods,” he offered.Fittingly for an emerging brand that’s almost like a gallery, collaborations are front and center. For fall, that meant hand-blown glass pieces produced with Heven, the Brooklyn homeware brand by Breanna and Peter Dupont. While those were plenty impactful, they didn’t look light. Elsewhere, a showpiece of a beige overcoat with a slash cutout in front was one of a few pieces that nodded to the work of Lucio Fontana (the cuff bracelets, too, were noteworthy).On the commercial side, there were some promising ideas. A button-on bandeau theme, for example, could offer customers the chance to switch things up season to season. A color-blocked jacket, overcoat, and cardigans looked plenty wearable, as did a khaki cropped hoodie. A print not shown here, of Aitouganov's French bulldog, was cute too.Clearly, Zomer has both ambition and potential. The designer are already working with the new pre-sale platform Upfirst, and this week they will launch their own e-commerce site. But soon, they’re going to hit a fork in the road: going to a gallery and admiring an idea, a color, or a form isn’t the same as realizing that you want to—need to—actually live with that thing. Now that they’ve got our attention, it might be worth inverting the equation.