Barbara Bui (Q3832)
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Barbara Bui is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Barbara Bui |
Barbara Bui is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
1998
fashion designer
From her Marais showroom, Barbara Bui suggested that, after many years of keeping ultra-low-key, she has been mulling over whether to hold a presentation again. Her men’s collection seems to have found its groove and her sleek suiting and expert way with leather (often one and the same) registers strongest when viewed up-close.For now, Bui continues to propose a dressier offering during ready-to-wear compared to the core collection of daywear and outerwear that she prepares for January and June. Technically, it’s one season split into two deliveries. New here are the ivory embroideries and fringe; back again are the pareo over-skirts—only now, they appear in a vaguely punk tartan and a more fanciful graphic print featuring a tiger. If it’s hard to spot him (or her) amidst the black-and-white flora, there’s no missing the feline face filling the front of a top and tuxedo jacket in lustrous sequins. A statement this fierce is not for everyone, hence a spectrum of pieces featuring leather—pleated pants, a jumpsuit, a boxy Spencer, a bustier, and more—each projecting an assertive attitude. “I liked the idea of all-leather; it’s at the origin of the house, something we have been doing since the very beginning,” she said.Given that the look book is composed mainly of photos against a black background, the details that define these looks can be difficult to make out, even if Bui rightly notes out that you see how the light catches on a pair of vinyl pants versus the leather. The black-and-white images, meanwhile, are a nod to those taken by David Bailey nearly 20 years ago. There is something powerful to an aesthetic that has held up all this time, whether or not it is considered buzzworthy. Maybe it’s time Bui remind everyone of that.
4 March 2020
If the opening look—a black waistcoat bustier and trousers—gives the impression that Barbara Bui has taken a sober direction for Spring, you need only advance to the next image, with its lush scenery and acid green draped dress, to sense the true spirit of this collection. From her Marais showroom, Bui noted how Cuba and Costa Rica loosely informed her embrace of lively color and pattern while a ’90s mood motivated many of the silhouettes. By adding Bianca Jagger and Linda Evangelista to the mix as muses, her composite of so-called “exotic” and city chic took shape in several wearable ways. The two figure-flattering jersey dresses, for starters; and the tailored pieces, this time in slick ultramarine satin or sleek off-white. “I love working with men’s jackets to make them exceptional for women,” said the designer, who understands the value in re-editing her best sellers each season.Granted, you’d need to be in the right mood for any of the fringed looks—from a color-blocked suede vest to the reinterpreted ponchos and party dresses. And that acid green—Bui called it absinthe—is the type of polarizing hue that is either adored or abhorred. Here, the determining factor might come down to dosage. A gilet crested with ostrich feathers was kooky yet cool; an all-over satiny biker outfit with ostrich features cascading down the sleeves seemed like the kind of potential fashion crime that some music artist would commit with pride. Among the men’s pieces, a patchwork bandana top and a sweater covered in extra-large sequins were extroverted without being absurd. Bui may no longer be seeking attention in the way she communicates her collections, but there’s no question she imbues the pieces themselves with sufficient attitude to attract it.
28 September 2019
Now that Barbara Bui has made a commitment to menswear, it seems as though she has a fresh perspective on her women’s collection. For Fall, she not only revisited the high-visibility color-blocking of previous seasons but also layered in electric florals, craft embellishments, deconstructed concert tees, and an overall attitude of eclecticism. If you’re thinking your black-on-black wardrobe needs some graphic kick, you could do worse than find it here.Indeed, amidst these myriad themes was the sense that Bui was allowing her designs to breathe and to be expressive. There was more fluidity to the dresses, whether in velvet or pleated silk, and more personality in the outfit assembling. While many pieces were stand-alone statements—see the bicolor shearlings, an embellished patchwork pencil skirt, and patterned velvet boots—they had even more impact when styled assertively, and in ways that seemed atypically Barbara Bui.In fact, the designer said she was reexploring ideas that date back to her earliest years, namely the multicultural flourishes and the rock-chic vibe. If these ideas seem less original today and are executed impactfully elsewhere, it was nonetheless nice to see Bui so enthusiastic. And when these glam-meets-grunge looks hit stores, chances are that customers will be enthusiastic, too.
5 March 2019
Given the ever-present masculine influence in Barbara Bui’s collections, an expansion into menswear seemed almost inevitable, especially with so many brands seizing on the market potential of gender fluidity. For the showroom visit, Bui readied some of the pieces that guys will be able to buy later this year: polished coats in camel and houndstooth; sportier outerwear including a luxe aviator jacket and duffle coat; and her signature slim leather pants, sized accordingly. Wearing these pieces in the lookbook, a male model exudes good attitude—as does the female model who, unsurprisingly, can also be found in going-out looks that remain true to Bui’s chic stylings. If the way she summed up this new exercise gave pause—“The design is both masculine and feminine, or else neither masculine nor feminine”— there was nothing ambiguous about her “couture arty” references. Drawing from ska and the ’80s fashions of designers like Emanuel Ungaro yielded dresses in tiers of high-contrast polka dots (especially those in orange and blue), or blocked in black and white; houndstooth boots that would be fun to wear from time to time; and a few cape-like tops that were an all-in-one statement.With the haute Parisian angle such a natural fit for Bui, it was nice to also see some variety in the argyle grouping, which included a great patchwork of leather and denim, and graphic pattern-blocking, namely a cool quilted jacket. She said that designing men’s helped give strength to the women’s wardrobe, and it appears this was the case.
19 January 2019
It wouldn’t be a Barbara Bui collection without pieces that ooze glam rock, and you need only glimpse the electric-blue-sequin tuxedo tailoring, a chain-mail tank, or some of the sexy off-shoulder tops to confirm as much for Spring. But this latest lineup was also replete with more fluid, vaguely bohemian looks that injected welcome freshness into the mix.From her Marais showroom, the designer singled out what she referred to as ajupon Montgolfière, which essentially translates to an “air-balloon underskirt.” Indeed, the colorful, lightweight fabric and outsize volume conjured exactly that, but paired with a streamlined tank it has potential as a summery statement piece. This airy theme extended to silk scarf prints, which took shape as a variety of overlayers, including sleeveless tunics and djellabas that were often spliced with incrustations of knit or lamé. One of the motifs revealed an illustrated pair of fierce Asian-inflected tigers, while another revisited the graphic lettering of her name—which is to say the vibe was bold even as the silhouettes were forgiving. Basque-style belts added something new to her usual offering of flattering pants, whether cut like jodhpurs or skinny cargos. Boasting a panel of water snake, tones of teal and yellow, and gold striped trim, the biker looks just barely escaped garish, and for this reason they will likely end up playing well in some spotlight situation (on stage, in a music video, perhaps even a red carpet).Bui pointed out that this collection was about “personages,” saying, “they’re not stereotypical.” And to that point, just as the visit seemed complete, she showed off a fantastic scarf creation that was an amalgam of all the ideas above, from embroidered, white chain mail to the breezy patchwork silk. As accessories go, it was unique.
2 October 2018
Barbara Bui launched her brand 31 years ago, so the ’80s-inflected looks in her new collection are a coming home of sorts. Her constants, like rocker-chick leather jackets and skinny, stretch leather pants or menswear-inspired jackets mingle here with a smattering of sports influences, and rugby in particular.“I wanted to go for a joyful, high-energy, nonchalant feeling,” the designer commented during a showroom visit. That meant transforming traditional rugby stripes to the extreme, in wide blocks of hot pink or bright green on round-shouldered tops, or streaking a bright accent along the seams of a more tailored Prince of Wales check jacket and scattering the letters of her name writ large across a cape. “I like things with a frank point of view,” the designer offered of her double-breasted, horizontally striped jackets.Since last season, Bui has been working a new “dis/organized” mix, layering fluid, “girlier” separates together with her signature “bad boy” tailoring, for example pairing a kelly green or printed shirtdress with slim leather trousers and matching boots—a look that’s meant to be pared down to just the dress once the weather turns fine. A lumberjack shirt/striped dress hookup and slip-on boots with neon treads nodded in the direction of grunge. Elsewhere, trench with a tailored cotton front and a back in loosely cut technical fabric embodied the designer’s new dual attitude and looked chic. A black Le Smoking/tracksuit hybrid will likely prove a sweet spot for women who need to wear something fairly polished but want to look laidback about it.“Clothes always reflect your state of mind,” offered the designer. “I was looking for a very simple way to wear something that might otherwise be too complicated.”
18 July 2018
In January, Barbara Bui hinted that the red, fuchsia, and purple permeating her pre-collection would soon give way to a “cool evening” lineup of black and white.Sure enough, the racks in her showroom during this latest visit were devoid of color, which is not to say they lacked visual impact. Many of the looks boasted a graphic treatment of her name never seen like this before—at least, not at Barbara Bui. Let’s consider the brand that also begins with aB-Aand ends with anA,or else the one whose name riffs on the opposite of off-black. Truth be told, the most abstracted applications—see the asymmetric shirtdress—weren’t bad. As an ironic and unfortunate twist that evaded her team, the cropping of the lettering on the inside of two oversize down coats could be read asB-A-R-F.This should be rectified by the time the pieces hit stores; for now, let’s enjoy a little chuckle.The collection contained another strong message: hybrid Le Smoking designs, which felt on brand for Bui (and also Saint Laurent). Shown as both a top and a minidress, the tuxedo fronts spliced with a bustier were without a doubt sexy, and dress pants trimmed with sport stripes looked smart. Lustrous outerwear, including an ample shearling in crackled silver and a workwear jacket in gunmetal hair calf, made good on the eveningwear promise while making an assertive statement for day. But leather boyfriend jeans were the lineup’s unsung hero; they were Bui’s signature leggings updated authentically.
8 March 2018
From her showroom in the Marais, Barbara Bui outlined the three pillars within her latest collection. She didn’t explicitly rank them, but their order seemed clear. She was proudest to show off denim pieces assembled entirely from vintage stock. The group, which will be produced in small quantities, included a spencer-style jacket with peaked lapels and leather cuffs, a flattering bustier, a one-shoulder minidress, a pair of jeans, and a basque formed like a jacket folded over. The lookbook styled these pieces together for maximum impact, but don’t feel obligated to do so. In each, the visible effort—figuring out a balance between the washes, and positioning the panels to play up their previous lives—was impressive. And sure, the concept may not be new, but Bui’s versions, all made in France, hold up well.The second story channeled Studio 54 via fluid, flouncy party looks in silver and gold lamé, as well as a silk treated to resemble leather (this being Bui, there was actual leather, too). Several pieces featured zips that encourage the wearer to adapt a draped panel or remove a strap. The blouse can be styled several ways thanks to its low, cross-body construction, while the jumpsuit will inevitably appear less OTT when worn wrapped at the waist. In any case, few would protest having several different sexy options within a single look. One duly noted extra detail: micro studs that effervesced on collars and slip tops. Regarding the final statement, it was a return to allover white. Bui revisited the denim styles, also adding in flowy tops delineated with lacing. The flattering cut of the white jean—high waisted with an every-so-slightly boyfriend leg—should come as no surprise given that the designer has been making gams look great since 1987. Yes, it’s been 30 years. When congratulated, the designer seemed laid-back about the milestone: However, the showroom featured variations of a T-shirt marking the anniversary. It isn’t in the lookbook, but it deserves to be.
3 October 2017
No matter the season, Barbara Bui will usually make sure to include sharp tailoring, deconstructed day-to-night looks, a great leather jacket or two, and a certain cross-cultural flair. These latest men’s and women’s collections ticked off all those boxes with an added British-inflected twist. Whether suiting in gray Shetland wool, tartan blanket skirts (think winter pareos), or velvet workwear pants, she found fresh ways to rehash the classics.Those Shetland-wool pieces, for instance, had a pleasing rough quality that offset Bui’s characteristic sleekness. For a while, the designer was known as much for her knits as for her leather, and it was nice to see so many top-to-toe variations here—from extra-long scarves to leg warmers. In ecru and heather gray, these cozy total looks were the season’s standouts. But many other stand-alone pieces come to mind, most notably the black aviator jacket that is a reissue from an original that dates back 20 years (and that she continues to wear today). Padded tartan jackets could be styled up or down; here, they appear with leather pants or a Pop face print that bore a faint resemblance to the work of Tom Wesselmann.Bui is at a point where she no longer needs to prove herself; she interprets directional ideas from elsewhere through a vaguely ’90s filter that people respond to well. She reiterated several times how stylized “Rangers” (what we call combat boots) signaled a less contrived look—“it’s not overworked,” she said—and you would be hard-pressed to disagree.
24 January 2020
Amid racks of clothes in her Marais showroom, Barbara Bui was emphatic that the “pre” part of pre-collection undermines its importance. “You must put in as much creativity, as much energy; these are the clothes that are the most purchased and the most worn,” she said, echoing what many others have maintained for some time. Unlike similarly sized brands, though, Bui has been sitting out the show format for a few years, which relieves her altogether of having to make those grander runway gestures. Ostensibly, she just needs to meet her own standards—however she measures them—across all seasons. This collection seemed well considered, spanning from retail-friendly boots and angora knits to the statement-making lipstick red topcoat and trousers, both outlined with black.If the allover color, especially the looks in vivid violet and burgundy, conjured up Céline Pre-Fall ’16, this could just as easily have been coincidence—and it’s not like the brands overlap much otherwise. For her part, Bui’s tough-chic tailoring remains an attractive proposition, whether looser and masculine or suggestively vampy when worn with an asymmetric wrap skirt. A zip-front hoodie fronted in shaved shearling, a reversible rabbit blouson, and a great pair of leather joggers were all bids at streetwear—and no doubt women who have bought many of her LBDs will welcome these options. Yet for all the fringe, lace edges, and sport stripes that would not go unnoticed, there was something so satisfying about the double-face black coat; perhaps it was the understatement.
2 February 2018
Barbara Bui is in an enviable position: In the three decades since she launched her brand, in the then-edgy Montorgueil area, her clients have stuck with her. Now, their daughters are on board too. For Resort, the designer has something for all of them.In a nod to her early “rock style” days in the ’90s, Bui offers up new iterations of house classics, such as studded leather jackets (a game-changer then, a stalwart now), a jean jacket worked in python, or a trench elevated with python and leather details. High-waisted, ample cargo-style trousers come in khaki cotton or leather. Overalls are back too, in keeping with the workwear trend. “It’s very cool and contemporary for young people, and in leather it becomes very glamorous when paired with a silk blouse. It lets you change things up from regular tailoring,” the designer noted. Other of-the-moment pieces include one-shoulder leather tops, ruffled romantic yet sporty hoodies, and gold lamé separates, such as a metallic baseball jacket or gold track pants. Even tailored jackets come down a notch with camouflage lapels and detachable peplums.Like the designer herself, the woman who dresses in Barbara Bui woman tends to have a force-of-nature kind of personality. “We keep it chic for the woman with a full, more accomplished career, and more forward for the girls who are just finding their adult style,” the designer notes. “Nothing is classic. Nothing is pretentious. It’s all about attitude.”And with the imminent launch of her new e-commerce site, that little extra dose of attitude will be within grasp well beyond Paris city limits.
11 July 2017
Be calm, Barbara Bui fans: This veteran Right Bank crafter of cacophonously powerful ready-to-wear has not demurred from showing a full fashion show this season for anything but pragmatic reasons. “We are working on a rebrand with a new logo and a new Internet store,” she reported as we walked to the door. “These projects need a lot of attention, so we decided to show the collection here in the showroom instead.”Bui gave us an upside to this, explaining that the 360-assiduousness of her lookbook allowed potential buyers fully to appreciate her kicky biker pants, often in differently colored panels of leather. Plus, they could get up close and personal with her oversize ponchos—the nude knit version was especially lovable—her bikers, her strong-shouldered sporty rib knits, her velvet hoodies and smoking jackets entwined with coiled snake embroideries in crystal, pin, and paillette. The embroideries were—the designer said firmly—a theme of hers since way back when.I suspect that any woman purchasing a pair of those pants—especially in all-black—would quickly become enamored. They were light, built right, not too tight, and ideal to strut in by day or night. Other pieces here felt either a little dated or a little meh, but in her boot-flashing kicky leathers, Bui looks, to me, to have a minor classic on her hands.
6 March 2017
This year marks Barbara Bui’s 30th anniversary of showing her namesake brand at Paris Fashion Week. For the time being, things remain pretty chill. “Trèsdaywear,” was how she described her Pre-Fall offering. Then, as is now, there was the perfect black leather pant, shown in several styles, all designed to elongate and enhance. Among her updated leather grouping, two mixed-material pieces were noteworthy: a black jersey roll-neck with an integrated leather bandage skirt (great for travel) and a black jacket featuring a lower leather panel connected by a zipper (unzipped slightly for effect). Advancing along the racks of her Marais showroom yielded a number of other seasonal standouts, including a camel coat updated with a ribbed-knit collar and a well-constructed studded aviator jacket with sheepskin lining. A khaki green parka lined with watermelon pink rabbit fur couldn’t help but stand out. The color pairing recalls the sage and orange of original MA-1 jackets, giving the concept cred, even if the hue proves a bit too intense for some. Still, the general emphasis on outerwear would suggest the brand is filling a niche that may have previously been untapped.Judging by the amount of showroom space dedicated to knits, they remain an essential category; here, however, a bit more newness would be welcome. Thankfully, for all the daywear, the designer has not abandoned the novelty men’s jackets—one fronted with Bakelite-style geometric pieces, another in shimmery gold—that are unmistakably evening. Should anniversary celebrations arise, these would honor the occasion.
26 January 2017
I hope that you’re ready for neon, because neon is coming. What began in New York with Jason Wu and Sies Marjan and carried through to Milan with Emilio Pucci and Salvatore Ferragamo has now fully arrived in Paris, first at Paskal, and now with a vengeance atBarbara Bui. Marabou bomber jackets with baseball sleeves and thickly slick PVC suiting may have opened Bui’s show, but it was the flowing, flashy anoraks that closed it (more often than not wrapped around monokinis of similar shades) that evoked the sultry, over-the-top glamour of ’80s Miami. Worn with a T-shirt and jeans, they may very well be the easiest way to try a very tricky trend.Bui’s previous collections have focused more on wearability, but this one seemed to swing fully into what’s now territory. Shiny patent fanny packs slung around the hips had an unexpected charm, while the dresses and cropped tops stayed flirty and one-shouldered, with the occasional vinyl side. Meanwhile, trousers, if they weren’t latex, tended to have peculiar, billowing pleats. There was the occasional cargo pocket, too. More approachable standouts included a filmy jacket with mosaic-style tile print on the hood and shoulders—a welcome addition to a wardrobe ready for spring showers.
29 September 2016
To best capture the various personalities of her Resort offering,Barbara Buiopted to show the collection on three models. The point, she explained, was not so much to emphasize archetypes as to reflect the spectrum of strong characters who gravitate toward her brand. In this way, the clothes improved upon her signature strengths more than departing in any radical new direction. Leather, unsurprisingly, was the leitmotif—a laser-cut tunic with an expanding grid of perforations (chic in black; sleeker in ivory), a classic blazer laced with a leather lower panel, and a short-sleeved, streamlined leather motorcycle jacket will win over her followers for one reason or another.When asked if there was any backstory to the square eyelet hardware that accented necklines and hemlines, Bui offered “samurai” as a reply. She’s betting that a tuxedo-cum-tracksuit in poppy red will tempt those who have invested in enough of her tailored black jackets. The birds of paradise print and animal-esque pattern in thermo-bonded micro-beads didn’t speak to anyone in particular, which is a risk when trying to reach everyone. But the lightweight wool coat in solid saffron will draw attention from customer and crowd alike.
28 June 2016
PVC pants! Again! Down the runway they came at Barbara Bui, these shiny, black, tighter-than-tight trousers that stomped past their roomy (by comparison) leather counterparts (topstitched here in a houndstooth pattern) and bastard cousin, the reverse-skort—which has to be Bui’s most peculiar new garment, appearing to be a floor-length skirt when viewed from behind, and wide-leg trousers from the front. Why a woman would want to obscure her rear view in this, the era of all things rump-related, is anyone’s guess, but perhaps she got freaked out byOlivier Rousteing’s ode to all things hourglass at Balmain only an hour or two before. Who can say?But those new skorts—and not being shorts, they’ll have to have another name: skants? pirts? skousers?—weren’t Bui’s sole focus at her Fall 2016 show, which skewed toward the sexy and the glam rock in equal measure. There were kelly green ponyskin shirtdresses, too; and skinny bright tartan suiting with shiny black patent accents; and a smattering of quite good shearling jackets, the exterior black leather and the lining done in emerald. One shearling-lined mink coat with a red and black intarsia houndstooth pattern on the outside was an exercise in luxurious excess; this is how Cookie fromEmpirewould do “Brooklyn lumberjack-chic.”There were a lot of capes, too, in another trend that seems to be sweeping through Paris. Here, some were beaded with what might have been a gilded phoenix; some were fringed in a trompe l’oeil manner to look like a different type of ensemble from a distance; some tartan coats featured slits just so that they might be worn as capes, if the feeling struck. A leather jacket basket-woven in a tartan pattern was unraveled so that the fringe was thick and layered at the hem, like a cheerleader’s pompom, while a leather car coat had pony-hair panels in an allover houndstooth print that was both winning and actually, really quite subtle.
3 March 2016
From her Marais showroom, Barbara Bui seemed especially enthusiastic about this season’s juxtaposition of graphic punch and softened shapes, pointing out how the plaid patchwork double-face knits represented quintessential early fall outerwear, whether in Paris or elsewhere. With its equal breakdown of statement sweaters, leather, and fringed “rockabilly” tailoring, the collection fell neatly in line with Bui’s accessibly edgy shtick while serving up a few surprises. Most were zipper related, from the leather pants that slit open to reveal contrasting color panels to subtle side zips that turned a coat into a cape (or vice versa). When asked how she knew a saturated shade of icy blue would work in velvet and leather, Bui replied that its universality as a shirt color had strong potential to translate across a wardrobe. And it’s true—once you get past the image of Jeff Daniels inDumb and Dumber.Women whose closets are already filled with Perfectos might consider the wool coat with rabbit shoulder accents and leather sleeves, or else the classic motorcycle style in velvet. Both represented Bui at her updated best. As for the comparatively eccentric addition of cropped, flared plaid pants, the designer pointed out their place as an alternative silhouette that feels no less Bui as long as they’re worn with sexy laced booties. And just at the point when you wondered whether a black dress with a back panel in floral patterned lace signified a decidedly feminine outlier, Bui declared, “It’s the new tattoo.”Bien sûr.
26 January 2016
“There is that rock ’n’ roll side, and a sexy suit—a little bit boyish, you know. It’s what I love to do,” gushedBarbara Bui, air-kissing German photographer Ellen von Unwerth backstage at her Spring show today. And if it’s what Barbara loves to do, then it’s what Ellen loves to photograph—sexy, uncomplicated clothes that do double-time as a flamboyant urban wardrobe for the jet set, or perhaps those aspiring to join it.Underscored as a love letter to Bianca Jagger, Bui’s Spring collection traced a racy through line going from urban tailored separates (safari-tinged shirtdresses and city shorts or their romper equivalents) to wrapped bra tops and leggings, all cut in supple leather. Her material of choice channeled a retro élan when patchworked as a harlequin snakeskin suit, or an ’80s shock in hot pink napa. It would take little imagination to picture a young Jagger poolside in the former option, or one of the season’s silk slipdresses, trapped by sculpted corset belts at the waist, their plunging necklines revealing bikinis beneath.Later, Bui took a gaucho trip involving fringed ponchos in tan or aubergine suede, for a South American theme that evolved into silk fringed eveningwear the designer called “night owl” embroidery (a suit and gown were positively festooned with the stuff). Those pieces swung past, begging for serious dance-floor real estate, but it’s probably the no-fuss sex appeal of Bui’s daywear that will lure her ladies in. Hell for leather, if you will.
1 October 2015
In March, Caroline Vreeland performed at Barbara Bui’s runway show after-party. Presumably, the designer felt that Diana Vreeland’s great-granddaughter meshed well with the brand, because guess who’s now the muse for the Resort collection? The chanteuse/model was hanging around the Marais showroom in Bui’s absence, and glimpsing the clothes off-figure, she singled out a few personal faves, including the patternedboutis(quilted) skort in the opening look and the extra flowy silk chiffon pants (Look 6). Both underscore Bui’s love of legs, whether revealed or concealed. But there were other standouts, too, including a suede Perfecto, beefed up at the back with godet pleats, and another suede topper, this time in powdery blue with scalloped edges. In fact, the jackets all had strong retail potential. You could picture the lot of them—silk tie-printed, denim and Navajo paneled leather, geometric jacquard, a leather-trimmed ivory vest—vying to be bought-now-worn-now come December.Printed blouses, flared jeans, jumpsuits, and slit skirts rounded out the age-inclusive offering with everyday style, if not surprise. Elsewhere in the showroom, footwear was brand Bui at its best: Every imaginable style—blue suede clogs, python patched sandals, metal-plated booties, all-black sneakers, and laced ballerina flats—had been modified to project rock-chick kick.
29 June 2015
You could glance through Barbara Bui's latest collection knowing that she was inspired by "Occidental urban hip-hop mixed with India and Buddhist monks," or you could opt against any backstory. How might your perception change? Maybe you wouldn't figure out that the graphic embroidery on a sheer white outer layer originated from graffiti tags, or that the brilliant orange was drawn from the monastic robes. But once Bui began stirring and simmering her references, the soup revealed more than the ingredients. It told us, for instance, that the newer slouch to her pants reflects her awareness of streetwear. The hand-patched Indian mirror embroidery furthered her interest in specialized craftsmanship. And while favoring white is not new for Bui, the crinkled organza T-shirt with rolled sleeves represented a relaxed refresh.Bui explained that the common denominator was the cultural mix, and how the simplicity of the monks offset the energy of the hip-hop. In a clingy organza and jersey dress, these worlds seemingly jelled. A multicolored rag-rug coat satisfied her desire for a fur-like texture, and backless bibs met her sexy quota. In the end, Bui did not require so much emphasis on liquid gold-effect separates to hammer home her "feeling of spirituality" and optimism. It was evident enough in the shiny, pointed Moroccan-style shoes—yes, another ingredient—whether this was deliberate or by chance.
25 September 2014
It came as something of a surprise when Barbara Bui, who is known for her thoroughly French, rock ’n’ roll aesthetic, chose to riff on classic hip-hop codes for Resort. This season, the designer delivered a collection that combined urban, sporty elements with ethnic prints inspired by the Dong tribes in southern China. Opting for lightweight technical materials that achieved a dynamic movement, she showed utility jackets, dresses, and hooded tops in shiny parachute silk, which gave the impression that this girl might break into a sprint at any given moment. Many of the pieces were impressively convertible, encouraging multiple creative styling options. Tailored blazers boasted discreet zippers that quickly transformed the garment into a cape, for example; and what appeared to be an otherwise basic cotton shirt actually featured an outer layer that could be peeled down and tied around the waist. Elsewhere, the indigenous patterns added interest to weather-resistant windbreakers and novelty bomber jackets. Another highlight was the opening, structured hoodie cut from spongy neoprene, which was paired with Indonesian wrap pants in a satin-leather fabrication (the drop-crotch fit was a refreshing change of pace from Bui's staple second-skin leggings). Basics, including signature tuxedo separates and a versatile flyaway trench, rounded out the mix, and pointy flatform oxfords provided a cool alternative to standard sneakers, which have become a bit too obvious lately.
10 June 2014
Barbara Bui's personal evolution came from thinking primitively this season. It was clear as day in the prehistoric fossil patterning, and the python and printed leather jackets that mimicked a turtle's carapace. It was also evident in the way her statement ponchos draped like pelts and her leather Perfectos had been spliced with shaggy sleeves. The ivory knit leggings felt positively au naturel compared to Bui's typical polished black pants. Then, midway through the show, the designer ditched the turtlenecks and shifted gears to a night message in which she revisited two of her favorite themes: rock 'n' roll and sharp tailoring. The former played out in swirls of shiny studs from jacket collar right down to boot tip; the latter, as a lengthened jacket exposing the thigh and a suit in a neoprene-nylon blend (here, the pants were wider and low-slung).Was there a link between day and night? Yes, if you consider Bui's overall attention to technical detail. In a single coat, lamb's wool appeared sheared, furry, and fuzzy and had been embroidered to create a paneling effect. On a jacket, strategically placed zippers allowed pieces to be detached, producing a moto-bolero. Of course, it helped that Karlie Kloss was wearing the shaggiest coat of them all; anyone else might have looked like a primate. Along the continuum running from Bui's oversize cable sweaters to her gauzy side-ruched chiffon blouses, her subtlest tweaks made the strongest impact.
26 February 2014
For her Pre-Fall lookbook, Barbara Bui shot Marine Deleeuw in an empty Paris apartment. The designer wanted the unreal-looking model to be in a "real" environment, because Bui's clothes are made for real situations. They're made to be worn. Which is also why she put a lot of thought into making the multilayer looks that dominate the collection easy to wear. The concept was gray suiting with six or seven elements to each outfit. But instead of piling a jacket upon a shirt upon a necklace, Bui developed little tricks that gave the feeling of a lot going on without the typical bulk that accompanies it.A double vest, for example, was actually one waistcoat paired with a belt that resembled the bottom of another. Dickeys and detachable cuffs created the look of a white button-up underneath a sweatshirt, while denim was patched into wool jackets to give them lightness. When there was volume, it was in the shoulders. A leather dress, fashioned after a bomber jacket, was big up top but curved in at the waist to create an exaggerated shape.While the three-piece suits looked like the shrunken version of a slick banker's uniform, the masculinity was softened just a bit by tortoiseshell PVC toppers. "It shakes up the gray monochrome," Bui said. Each look was styled with Bui's "mannish" cowboy boots, which have sold briskly over the past few seasons. The sharp footwear epitomizes the aggressive, not-too-precious look Bui typically goes for. But more important, like almost everything else in this collection, the boots are easy to wear.
6 January 2014
Before her show today, Barbara Bui defended denim as a "noble" material. Its usual destiny as a sturdy fabric need not preclude it from being made over into a more delicate, decadent, or decorated state of being. (Some trivia: The etymology of denim is actually French, as inde Nîmes—from Nîmes). In the role of fairy godmother, Bui transformed it by shearing, fraying, sculpting, embroidering, and adding appliqué and monochromatic beading for textural dimension. She also paid homage to denim with blousons in faded blue leather and python. Bui's bandeau underpinnings and bloomer/sport-short hybrids skewed young, although the designer said she'd have no qualms wearing the latter.Bui was smart, though, to hedge her bets with jackets. The least classic came cropped and boxy; oversized and sans sleeves; rounded and paneled in leather; or long, pleated, and worn as a shoulder cape. The designer established early on in her career that she knows how to cut a pant—here, she shifted her skills upward and succeeded.In the last quarter, Bui showed two rubber toppers printed with a red engraved flora print, followed by a poppy-red organza suit that dictated a looser fit and benefited from a higher waist. The digression felt odd, if only because it was so short lived. The footwear, meanwhile, stayed entirely fixed on oxfords vented to resemble sandals, or laceless white versions tipped in metal bits to catch the light. By eschewing heels, Bui altered the spirit of her line more radically than with her focus on the humble blue jean. Her signature stilettos may yet appear by the time the collection hits stores, but on the runway, at least, these steps pushed her brand forward.
25 September 2013
You do not want to mess with Barbara Bui's fierce lady. The French designer's look is always cool, but this season it was also aggressive. "A sensual, powerful woman," was how Bui summed it up. A blue python pattern lorded over the collection, printed on a scuba-fabric skirtsuit, a collarless overcoat (made of a lightweight cotton mesh), and a pair of pointy, square-heel boots that looked like the perfect weapon to kick a person clear across the street.Nothing evokes power more than a well-fitting suit, and there were plenty available: a classic black jacket and pant was given a sharp-shouldered edge, while a gray heather version was worn with a double-collar button-up. The collar-on-collar idea wasn't the only example of deceptive layering: A white cuff peeked out at the wrists of a chambray shirt. Even baby blue taffeta looks tough cut into a puffy bomber. But the real indication that this woman is ready for urban battle was the giant quilted parrot appliqué, done inMiami Vicecolors and laid over everything from a leather sweatshirt to the inside of a jacket. It requires confidence to spare to pull off something that awesomely flashy.
6 June 2013
Lack of focus has been a recurring theme this season, as more than a few designers seem to have taken an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink approach to putting together their collections. Not Barbara Bui: One thing her collection certainly had going for it was focus. Almost all the clothes were black. There were two trouser silhouettes and one key jacket, and the dresses were uniformly short and tight. Given those strictures, it's actually remarkable how much variety Bui managed to coax out of this collection. Her primary aid in that effort was texture, as she executed her cropped, flared trouser and sharp-shouldered, lapel-free jacket in materials ranging from python to lace; she also turned out a number of strong coats, the best of which was a feral shearling with side slits that cleverly allowed it to be worn as a cape. Elsewhere, Bui mixed up her proportions with her tops, showing trim button-downs, a diaphanous lace blouse that draped long at the back, and a couple of barely there, banded halters only fit for the daring. The gold-sequin halter on Abbey Lee Kershaw should wind up on a pop star any day now, which was probably the point. If there was a musical muse here, though, you'd have to guess Bowie—there was just something about the glam androgyny of Bui's updated tuxedo looks that put you in mind of his Ziggy Stardust phase. Her spin on the look was very accessible and ought to translate to sales.
27 February 2013
Every artist has a preferred medium, and leather has always been Barbara Bui's canvas of choice. Her pre-fall collection offered urban staples cut from the stuff, including color-blocked motocross stovepipes and a quilted overcoat with a cocoonish, away-from-the-body shape (the oversize outerwear silhouette is still having a moment). Other standouts in the leather category were a saffron-colored sweatshirt and a bomber jacket in pony hair laser-cut into a baroque, dragonlike pattern. In the end, though, head-to-toe leather outfits are difficult to pull off, so we'd encourage the designer to push her boundaries more moving forward. A good place to start would be her killerLe Smokingsuit, which looked cool worn with zippered flat shoes that had a punk-rock vibe.
7 January 2013
Leather legs or very bare legs. For Barbara Bui's Spring collection, bottoms were a binary proposition.If this sounds limiting, Bui provided enough evidence to the contrary. For one thing, the leather pants came in a Goldilocks range of second-skin stretch legging, mannish trouser, and an in-between tailored fit. Tired of black? There was inky blue. As for "les jambes nues," blazers doubled as boxy minidresses while actual dresses could be mistaken for extra-long tops. Shorts came in one length: short.Like many other designers this season, Bui was drawn to organza, except she layered hers, blouse plus blazer or blouse on blouse. This worked well, achieving the desired transparent effect with added dimension.Straps that connected a jacket or vest from the inside had potential. Part harness, part seat belt, they created graphic angles over the soft organza. Bui might have pushed this idea even further, but instead she traded discipline for decoration. Stylized rather than traditional, her South American motifs appeared on chiffon scarves and as elaborately embroidered and embellished biker jackets, bags, and shoes. "I'm going for an artisanal touch, not a couture touch," she explained before the show, pointing to the raffia-stitched patterns and tassels. Small spikes were her requisite riff on rock 'n' roll.Oversize bags were designed with "globe-trotters" in mind, she said. Jackets notwithstanding, the collection was pretty packable. But more than that, it was Bui giving her customers what they want. No-brainer black and white tube dresses for nighttime, roomy vests, and leather shirts—this is all uncomplicated stuff that appeals to a certain woman who doesn't need to bring sexy back because she never dared let it disappear. Of course, good legs are always a bonus.
26 September 2012
It's been a few months since Barbara Bui opened her L.A. store, and it looks as though the West Coast is rubbing off on her color palette. The Paris-based designer presented a Resort lineup of sky blue, peach pink, and sage green separates, which meshed well with her cool Parisian aesthetic. Leather was the key player here—be it on the trim of a jacquard checkered skirt, on loose-fitting track shorts, or on a T-shirt, the most appealing of which featured an Asian-inspired flower design and zipper accents. Outerwear was another highlight—it usually is for Bui. The designer showed her signature cropped jacket in white linen with electric blue snakeskin sleeves and green piping, as well as a longer oversize coat with the same detailing poking out from behind the collar—chic. If color was Bui's way of appealing to her West Coast customers, she gave a shout-out to her New York client base with a gamut of covetable accessories. Think high-heeled sandals with ethnic beading, camel-colored doctor's bags, heavy snake necklaces, and cuff bracelets spiked to perfection.
10 June 2012
Fashion's collective eye is trained on China. But for French-Vietnamese designer Barbara Bui, the references in her Fall collection to the People's Republic harkened back to the squaring of east and west she did when starting her career almost 30 years ago. To the exotic dragons and Maoist olive drabs, Bui added seventies glamour, name-checking David Bowie and Bianca Jagger. The first look out was iconic Mrs. Mick Numero Uno, with the twist that its satin tuxedo jacket was quilted in the traditional Chinese style.Bui's cocktail yielded some fine pieces—a sturdy-chic military overcoat, a slew of ankle-cropped pants, a Halston-esque jersey dress, a leopard coat. That lamé maxi dress and the slouchy pants in metallic leopard triggered memories of a more recent glam heyday, the apex of Balmain-ia. But heck, they're also the pieces you'd shop your closet for sooner rather than later. Still, working an Asian motif is tricky. (Marc Jacobs was smart to take his to a so-bad-it's-good extreme a few seasons ago.) What tripped Bui up were the schlocky crouching tigers, and hidden dragons in prints and hefty embroideries that closed the show, a costume-y misstep in a collection that typically does reality so right.
29 February 2012
At a Barbara Bui appointment, finding a top-notch jacket is like shooting fish in a barrel. The French designer is known for her casual cool outerwear, so you can always expect covetable toppers like the moleskin bomber with shearling collar and leather sleeves from her new pre-fall collection. Of course, Bui is always pushing her own envelope; new for this season was a Jean Shrimpton-inspired cocoon coat cut from plush cashmere wool with intentionally broad shoulders that gave the piece a menswear-y appeal. Another fairly fresh silhouette was the to-the-knee, pleated shirtdress that came paired with high python boots. She described it as an ode to Faye Dunaway's character in the 1976 filmNetwork.Bright accessories like an on-trend cross-body bag in flamingo pink gave the predominantly shadowy lineup a necessary kick. Considering sunny California makes up 60 percent of Bui's stateside sales, the designer might want to consider mixing in a bit more color going forward.
11 January 2012
On the face of it, Barbara Bui was ably ticking off the trends. Sporty? Check. Bold blocks of color? Check. Thirties drop-waists? Tribal motifs? Check and check. But her collection had its own crisp bounce. She cycled through all of the above and came up with a cohesive, commercial translation with pieces that garnered notice. Take the first look's jacket, made of thickly fringed leather—Bui called it "fur of leather"—that caused one oft-photographed young editor in the front row to lean over and express her stamp of approval. Elsewhere, Bui presented the unattainable brought within reach, like the creamy and crafty hand-knits and racing-cum-tuxedo-stripe trousers you saw on a major designer's runway last season, here made suddenly earthbound.As is her way, Bui had good merch for miles, like a leather mini-duffel that came in a still-wantable rainbow python. And you imagine Bui's youthful customer will go gaga over those boxy sweatshirts with Latin American-inspired embroidery, and the second-skin nylon boot-cut track pants with vents that open over strappy sandals. The aforementioned editor might want to consider adding those pants to her list, too; they'd be just the thing for running from the street-style paparazzi when the fun is done.
28 September 2011
Barbara Bui is a couple weeks shy of opening her first-ever store in Los Angeles. Naturally, she needs some event dresses for the Rodeo Drive boutique, so her Resort collection includes a capsule line of white and black floor-length numbers, some with beaded embroidery on the bodice or built-in metal necklaces. They may sound dressy, but they're as easy as slipdresses; Bui's aesthetic is casual and cool.That's just as true when it's work clothes she's designing. Her tweed jackets, for example, are shot through with of-the-moment chartreuse and electric orange. And her favorite piece of the season is a relaxed silk jumpsuit (a trend with long legs, if ever there was one) in a similar citrus shade. The designer checked other must-haves off the list here, too, like eyelet, color blocking, and countless takes on the leather moto jacket. The collection didn't have a unifying point of view, but Bui will have no shortage of merchandise to offer at her new L.A. store.
28 June 2011
You might be sick of reading the fashion term "urban warrior" (we are), but the fact remains that, come winter, women are instinctively drawn to a way of dressing that's sleekly under the radar and yet slightly tough, practical, and protective. Certainly a commercially minded powerhouse like Barbara Bui knows this, and while her show today didn't break any new ground, she did a fine job of interpreting that tendency her way.To start, there were voluminous, high-collared aviator coats—right on trend, pieced together in shearling, mohair, patent leather, puffed nylon, and bouclé—over slick, asparagus-skinny pants. From start to finish, the outerwear was what made the headlines here. There were great motorcycle jackets with zip-off fur hems that created a nice skirt effect. And Bui certainly saved the best for last in a series of tight-shouldered shearlings neatly delineated with bouclé bands and a cool, ombré metallic finish. But a girl, warrior or not, cannot live by coat alone. (Though a drop-dead chic one can score you a lot of mileage.) There was, curiously, an evening slant to much of Bui's indoors-wear. Maybe with a preponderance of black clothes, a leap to black-tie gear seems logical? Still, something like her great draped, buttery-looking leather tunic and pair of black pants might be almost as clever an investment.
2 March 2011
The great thing about designer inspirations is that they don't necessarily have to make complete sense to work in the context of a collection. That would be the case with Barbara Bui's Spring show, for which her ideas ranged from "energy and light" to "women reporters." In your head, you might conjure up a radiant Christiane Amanpour in lotus pose, but on the runway you could see the designer's train of thought. There were flak jacket-inspired pieces—jumpsuits, khaki shirts, silky cargo pants, and, well, jackets—leading to the desert ease of languid silk dresses and blouses, and natural linen shifts and tiny shorts.Following in the vein of her coats from Fall—and the current trends—Bui also showed leather outerwear pieced with panels of snakeskin and perforated suede. With shades of both biker and aviator, these also dovetailed with the chic and nomadic foreign correspondent she imagined. The necessary counterpoint to all that relatively rugged and sporting utility was a dash of gold lamé at the end of the show. After all, this Florence of Arabia may be a professional, but her life can't be all work and no play. Bui also added a slightly more low-key dash of flash in geometric sequin embroideries on those linen bits. Strangely, a few were reminiscent of Louis Vuitton's insignia, which could have been a coincidence, or perhaps a reference to luggage? Either way, it was the sole true head-scratcher in an otherwise solid collection.
29 September 2010