Brandon Sun (Q3949)
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Brandon Sun is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Brandon Sun |
Brandon Sun is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Brandon Sun wants to be the go-to brand for the next generation of fur collectors. His sell is that his pieces have a harder edge than those of the designers who came before him. For Fall he looked to the layered, black-on-black paintings of the artist Pierre Soulages to inform the collection's textures and palette. "This is my favorite collection I've ever done," Sun said at a preview.His buyers might agree with that sentiment. The focal point of the show, appropriately, was the fur coats. There was a black-leather quilted version with the softest and fluffiest shearling collar, a patchworked style that was worn like a dress—and featured a wild mix of Blackglama mink, swakara, calfskin, and jaguar—along with a belted black-leather parka, its split hood lined in navy shearling and trimmed with magenta fox fur.These were statement pieces, to be sure, but they were often worn over more somber black turtlenecks. Sun worked with stylist Charles Varenne this season, and the partnership was successful. Despite all the different textures and ideas at play, the models on the runway looked in control.Beyond the fur, Sun offered some compelling high-day looks for his trunk-show crowd. The double-faced cashmere coat with raw edges, a metallic-floral sheath, and a black woven leather dress will each find a customer.
14 February 2015
Brandon Sun is still finding his way. This summer, he spent time meeting with clients across the country, figuring out what they liked about his work and what they needed in their own wardrobes. "I'm calling it 'high day,'" he said of the Spring 2015 smart dresses designed for women who aren't partial to the jeans-and-heels look for a weekday luncheon or gallery opening. Taking color inspiration from De Stijl masters Piet Mondrian and Theo van Doesburg—green and teal with shots of red and pink—and visual ideas from the Cubists, Sun presented a cohesive collection of color-blocked, mostly structured numbers that will appeal to his desired customer.A strapless midi column, for instance, was pieced together with intersecting bands of satin crepe, and a little "blasted floral" jacquard jacket was cut sharply at the waist and paired with a matching bandeau and faux-wrap skirt. While Sun is not focused on eveningwear, there were some relaxed gowns in the mix, including a silk georgette number with color-blocked knife pleating coming down one shoulder. The rest of the piece was flat to minimize bulk and, therefore, flatter more figures. "Not every customer is 26, tall, and perfectly skinny," Sun said. "There are only, like, five of those girls. And they get everything for free."Sun also worked hard to show off technical skills honed at J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta. For instance, white leather strips and organza were hand-sewn together to create a graphic dress using a paper guide, which was then delicately removed from the garment using tweezers. The finished product offered just the look the designer was after. In fact, most of them did. If Sun keeps going in this direction, his clients will respond enthusiastically.
8 September 2014
Brandon Sun, the young furrier, was eager to take things up a notch for Fall, hosting his first-ever runway show. His muse was the heroine of the Norwegian fairy tale East of the Sun and West of the Moon, who grows stronger with every trial and tribulation. "No matter what happened to her, she was able to rise above it," said Sun last week at his studio in Manhattan's tiny fur district. His challenge was to show what he could do with fur beyond the obvious, but also to present ready-to-wear that his outerwear client would be just as excited about.To do that, the designer looked to Kay Nielsen's Art Nouveau illustrations fromEast of the Sun, which inspired the narrow, high-slit skirtsuit in metallic floral jacquard and the shoulder-baring dress in a weightless gold brocade. He was also inspired by the markings of the African Ndebele tribe, interpreted best on a tank and skirt pieced together with thin strips of leather in navy, burgundy, and white.Sun played with fur in a new way too. He used tiny mink puffs as polka dots on a sexy sheer blouse and on a sheer insert on the slit of a gray flannel dress. But those were novelties—the strongest stuff had yet to come. As part of the Swarovski Collective, he was required to incorporate crystals into the collection, and he did so by insetting them into hand-cut Blackglama mink. It looked right, not forced, and showed off his skill. But the showpiece was undoubtedly the sheared mink and tweed coat, trimmed in mink and chinchilla. It was glamorous and modern, which seemed to be the look Sun was going for, sweeping references aside.
6 February 2014
"Im a ready-to-wear designer, too," said Brandon Sun at his Lincoln Center presentation. Sun, who ran the fur programs at J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta before launching his own line in 2011, wanted to show off his other talents this season, so he only used the soft stuff sparingly in his collection.Instead, he focused on color and shape, with feudal Japan's female samurais, called onna-bugeisha, as muse. The reference was subtle, but it was visible in the Japanese robe silhouettes. For instance, a collarless silk blush pink vest was worn over a straight, below-the-calf dress in the same color, with poppy-colored insets and white piping adding a sporty element.The geometric print was based on Katsura, the mazelike imperial villa in the city of Kyoto. It was best represented on a gray knee-length skirt paired with a sheer striped shell and a long, collarless white vest, which was also printed with the puzzle pattern. And while Sun didn't want to dwell on fur, the little that he did show was notable, particularly when it was dyed hot orange and applied in an intarsia print to a cream split-front pencil skirt.Sun's work is good-looking, and he obviously possesses the skill and intellectual curiosity to create interesting clothes. But he's not quite there yet. The collection, despite its careful execution, lacked the energy that the most exciting new designers possess. Things might be a little more compelling if Sun let himself make a couple of not-so-safe moves. He definitely has it in him.
10 September 2013
Brandon Sun is a furrier above all, designing in the medium for J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta before launching his ready-to-wear line two seasons ago. So for Fall, he felt compelled to take his fur offerings up a notch. "It's what I'm best at," he said before the show, "so I aimed to push myself."Influenced by Kazuo Shiraga, a Gutai-movement artist who paints with his feet, collection highlights included a black-and-white intarsia-print mink, a hunter-green kimono-style blouse wrapped with a rose belt, and a back-vent checked-gray turtleneck paired with a hunter satin skirt. While fur was certainly not the center point of the collection, when it was used—cut so short on a cropped jacket that it resembled velvet, or thrown nonchalantly over the neck—there was a level of expertise unexpected from a new label.There is certainly a major market for Sun's specific look—skinny pants, lots of leather, a bit of fur, and plenty of black. Others are already doing it, but with such confidence, he may be able to carve out a niche.
12 February 2013
You may not yet be familiar with the name Brandon Sun, but chances are you've seen his luxe furs around town. After graduating Parsons, the young designer went on to direct the fur divisions at J. Mendel and Oscar de la Renta, then started his own luxe accessories line in 2011 (currently sold at Bergdorf and Neiman Marcus), and is now on his second ready-to-wear collection. At his Spring presentation this morning, Sun balanced avant-garde tailoring with upscale accents. The ultrasoft cashmere-jersey cardigan with geometric tufts of mink (which reminded Sun of cherry blossoms) was a standout piece. Ditto the vest dress that mixed techno raffia and tweed with a furry arctic fox panel in back. But since it was Spring, Sun couldn't rely too heavily on his signature furs, which played more of a supporting role than the lead. Spotlight-worthy looks included a lace-embroidered tulle T-shirt paired with silk crepe trousers that had a dramatic (but surprisingly flattering) drop crotch, and a racerback tweed column gown with a peplumlike cascade and deep pockets. You could imagine wearing it for a casual walk around the block or with heels to a fancy dinner.
10 September 2012