Buckler (Q3974)
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Buckler is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Buckler |
Buckler is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Andrew Buckler returned to the great outdoors this season, setting up his runway in the Meatpacking District. A womenswear show could never fly here (see: cobblestones, face-plant), so it was nice to see Buckler's coiffed guys looking so comfortable out in the elements. Real clothes, street-tested? Check.Before the show, Buckler said he'd eased up the slim fit he's known for. Pants came loosely rolled, and several shorts drooped to the knee like perfectly hemmed sweatpants with deep pockets. Stand-alone hoods that could double as scarves would be great for confused-forecast days. Stash one in any of Buckler's substantial leather bags and you'd be ready for pretty much any weather. Another essential layer was a navy blue crew-neck sweater with an asymmetrical zip. Cooler than a cardigan and more versatile than a pullover, it was a perfect example of the kind of thoughtfully tweaked basics that have become Buckler's signature.
8 September 2011
Give him points for showmanship: For his Fall 2011 presentation, Andrew Buckler shut down an entire block of Soho and walked his darkly dressed boys through the street. (Apparently, getting approval is a long, rather than difficult, bureaucratic process.) The setting was important, Buckler said after the show, because of the theme of the season: the artists "using the streets as their medium to communicate messages."No more of the 1930's German students who'd occupied him for Spring, in other words. And none the worse for that, really. The mostly somber color scheme put Buckler way afield of many of his compatriots in menswear this season, but basic black isn't bad business. Neither is repeating what's worked before—specifically, a long, layered silhouette, anchored by narrow pants, some skinny through the leg; others with more volume up top before tapering around the knee. They came topped with long, cabled cardigans or tailored jackets that ranged from the casual cotton slub to a few more refined tux options in wool gabardine.The clearest hint of any street-art style was in the blast of highlighter yellow that came near the end, in paneled jeans and a blazing parka. And like street art, they had an aggressive insistence—even a welcome sort of vulgarity—that the well-behaved rest seemed to lack.
10 February 2011
Andrew Buckler picked a ten-year span of European history for inspiration. To start, the 1924 Olympic Games, when Britain's Eric Liddell and Harold Abrahams took home the gold; to end, 1934, one of the last years of the Bauhaus movement in art. Now that you know all that, you're probably OK to forget all that. Buckler makes menswear that normal guys like because it's not too think-y. The Olympic influence, according to the designer, was evident in the fine-gauge linen T-shirts, stretched and slubby like an athlete's well-worn workout togs. The Bauhaus was behind the prints, and a few trompe l'oeil details. Some gymnasium student of yore might've worn the drop-crotch leggings shown here in mélange and stripes—but it isn't clear that Buckler's current customers will. They'll be more interested (as they should be) in his expanded line of suiting, hand-finished and manufactured in Italy.
9 September 2010
Style.com did not review the Fall 2010 menswear collections. Please enjoy the photos, and stay tuned for our complete coverage of the Spring 2011 collections, including reviews of each show by Tim Blanks.
11 February 2010