By Malene Birger (Q3988)
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By Malene Birger is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | By Malene Birger |
By Malene Birger is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
2003
CEO/Creative Director
Change is afoot at the By Malene Birger company; Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt, the company owner, has assumed creative direction. The pre-fall and fall 2025 collections had been already designed when this decision was announced, making this the penultimate lineup by Maja Dixdotter. Having joined the company in 2020, the Swedish designer asserted her vision and made BMB synonymous with a kind of bohemian minimalism. With hindsight you could say she was early on both the quiet-luxury and neo-boho trends—except that Dixdotter’s mind doesn’t work like that. The BMB aesthetic she championed was an extension of her own.This season connected to those that came before like a pearl on a strand. Draping balanced by tailoring is the designer’s modus operandi, as beautifully exemplified in the opening look: a fitted cardigan jacket and midi-length bubble-hem skirt styled with heart-adorned thong sandals. Drama is delivered via a camel car coat with faux-feather sleeves, but generally the mood here is dreamier. An embroidered pouch bag and an intarsia knit add a bucolic touch to the offering.“I really try to not follow trends, hence my starting point is always very personal for me and depends on where I am in life,” said Dixdotter in a statement. “[When I was designing this collection, I was also] planning my garden and dove into books of old French and British gardens. I wanted [the color scheme] to feel very fresh; I wanted the collection to feel fresh, somewhat wild, and full of hope for what’s to come.”This season the materials of some pieces fell short of By Malene Birger’s sophisticated aesthetic. While the designer awaits the blooming of her hydrangeas, fashion awaits Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s next steps.
16 December 2024
There was a feeling of everything coming together for Maja Dixdotter this season. The designer had an art-adjacent eccentric in mind when ideating the collection; in planning the visuals, she was interested in finding a way to do “more of a portrait instead of just a shoot.” Reenter Conie Vallese, the Milan-based Argentinian artist who modeled the brand’spre-fall 2023lineup and was again featured for this confident and grown-up collection. It was photographed at a location of Vallese’s choosing—an estate outside Florence that evoked the feeling of a Mediterranean getaway. Poolside options included a maillot paired with a black-and-cream striped crochet sweater and hat and tunic with inset bands of lace. A pearl-colored tunic with peekaboo insets of lace (a nice continuum with the material from pre-fall 2024) was a perfect cover-up. For town, there was a natty set, a long khaki vest with points at the front hem and A-line skirt, which provided a welcome borrowed from the boys element to a collection that tended toward the dressy. The deep, luxurious faux fur trim on a white V-neck night look, a caped caramel satin number, and printed silk evening pajamas had an alluring ’60s contessa kind of vibe that was on theme. More versatile and easier to pack for vacation were less decorative designs, such as a long, slim lilac knit dress with flower trim, a flowy printed caftan, and feathers trimming a midi-length dress, accessorized with heart thong sandals.Having made the decision to include at least one hand-crafted touch in every collection, this season Dixdotter worked with a collective in Madagascar who handmade the raffia bags using material they grew. The lace was also artisanal and made in India. The importance of supporting craftspeople and their skills cannot be stressed enough; it is wonderful to see this mission being carried out not only at the luxury level but by a brand that has relatively accessible price points—and a lot of eyes on it.
18 September 2024
Serenity and excitement coexist in By Malene Birger’s resort collection. Somehow Maja Dixdotter found a way to maintain a sense of equilibrium while enlivening things with shots of ruby red and running wild with toned down animal patterns. A leopard-printed pony hair coat and hero piece has roar factor, but the other looks mostly purr. Among them is a soft ivory knit set with a short flirty skirt. That gem-stone red color is used for a versatile slip skirt and a caftan. A charming midi dress with handmade pom-poms lining either side of the center front closure is more than pretty, it fulfills the designer’s desire “to always have something made by hand going forward.”The lookbook images are actually photographs taken by Dixdotter from a self-made video. This can be variously read; perhaps the designer is trying to remind us of the big picture or speak to timelessness. Her ideals are closely aligned with make-do-and-mend values associated with past decades. Having worked with seniors as a young woman, Dixdotter says, “I don’t only get inspired by how they dress, it’s also how they live. What I remember most, and what was different between young and old people,” she said, “is that they take more care of their things. They buy something if they need it. If it breaks, they fix it. [That’s] super modern actually, it’s how you have to think now.” Dixdotter’s aim is to turn thought into action: “I feel what I can do to actually make a change is to work differently.” The atelier now makes fewer samples, for example, and for this pre-collection the mood and the garments are light, making them adaptable for varying climates and layering-friendly.
20 June 2024
Maja Dixdotter’s fall collection for By Malene Birger is her most luxurious in terms of materials and texture. This is clear from the opening look, a reversible shearling jacket with a pom-pom zipper pull paired with an angora midi skirt. Softness is the message here, and comfort. It’s delivered through cashmere knits, mahogany-colored velvet, and a faux fur coat of epic,Edward Goreyproportions. A bird’s eye tweed, cut into both a cape-sleeved coat and a skirt suit with an asymmetric swag adds a firmer hand. The collection speaks to all aspects of an active woman’s life with work-ready and going-out options. There are statement-making pieces as well as at-home looks such as a flower-printed ribbed base layer set and a slip dress with a charming tuck that creates a drape at the hem.Dixdotter seems less in thrall to thevie bohemethan she was when she joined the company in 2021; the pieces that hew closest to that, such as a raw silk pajama set, feel a bit apart. Still, this is a deeply nuanced collection that carries with it the sweet smell of success. As it should be: Having been mesmerized by a rare fragrance she came across by chance, the designer built the collection around the idea of top, heart, and base notes. Perfume is well known to be a powerful conduit for evoking the past, and this collection contains its déjà vu moment: The coat in the final look, cinched with a flower belt, is worn by the model who appeared in Dixdotter’s first collection which included the same coat in a different color. “It felt really strong to be able to do that again,” she said.
21 February 2024
As a sort of counter to the dark and heavy times, Maja Dixdotter aimed for a light touch with this By Malene Birger collection. One of the ways she introduced it was through her use of a butterfly crochet on ivory separates, which was inspired by some vintage lace she found in her mother-in-law’s attic. In addition, she cut many of the pants and skirts for fluid movement and used a soft fluffy “eyelash” fabric for a kimono with a bit of built-in “quiver.”The Greek-island mood from last season carried over in shell and column details worked into knits. Sun hats and fringe also had a vacation vibe, as did the shots of raspberry and blue in an otherwise neutral collection. Red thong sandals with hearts took love beyond an emoji. “I think it’s important to take a step back and think about fashion in another way,” said Dixdotter, who believes that her work should function in the real world. “We have to [focus on] what is important in fashion: You should feel good in it, you should feel strong. It should be comfortable, and it should be long-lasting. And it has to be honest in a way.”By shooting the look book herself, using analog means, Dixdotter practiced the genuineness that she preaches. “It was nice just to dare to believe in the process itself and in creativity that comes when there’s not too much planning,” she said. That trusting, free, and optimistic spirit is also in the clothes.
8 December 2023
Since joining By Malene Birger, Maja Dixdotter has successfully steered it in the direction of boho-minimalism. By changing up her process, the designer’s spring lineup moved in a winning new direction. “Every time I start with a new collection, I always try to find the mood and the way I want the woman to feel when she wears the clothes,” Dixdotter. This time around the site of the campaign shoot—Greece—was decided before the collection took form. “That was something new, I could already really picture her and the collection there when I started sketching. It gave me a new angle, and I realized that I never really think of the location when I draw, it’s more about the feeling only.”Dixdotter’s mental map wasn’t confined by Greece’s borders, rather she traded the eclecticism of the arty wanderer for a Mediterranean vibe, conjuring sun, sand, sea, warm days and cooler nights. There’s no competing with the blues of water and sky, so the palette was pared-back ecru beige, and black, with hints of color—rosé and olive—that could have been pulled off a menu. Woven raffia was used for bags and a hat; fabric fringe and a diamond mesh material with a flower at every cross point built on that feeling of lightness and texture. Different types and weights of linen were also used throughout, as was crispy Pima cotton, like that used for a pajama-striped set. “I think it’s just so nice to have something that is both about vacation, but also staying at home,” Dixdotter said.While softness and motion predominated, as in Look 13, a white shirt with the cape of the trench styled as a skirt, the designer didn’t neglect clothes for summer in the city. To wit: a knit cardigan suit, a five-button tailored jacket, sheath dresses that can be dressed up or down, and a matching set in black leather. “I was thinking about a very relaxed pace and just easy living in a way, but I still wanted it to feel really chic,” said Dixdotter. “I added the jewelry, but also some pieces that are more fitted and sharp to get this vibe.”Still the collection tended toward looks that liberate the body. There was a sense of freedom, of not having to stick to a schedule, or color within the lines. A black-and-white striped look, made of flat and hairy yarns to create a fuzzy effect, captured the immediacy and the suggestiveness of the sketch that inspired it. This By Malene Birger collection drew a pretty and inviting picture of a Mediterranean dream.
21 September 2023
Can a contemporary brand practice slow fashion? By Malene Birger’s Maja Dixdotter is actively working toward that goal; for resort she cut the number of new looks by about half and in so doing crafted a strong edit that continues to expand on the bohemian minimalism theme she’s set for the company. This is really a case when less is more: “We can work on the products for a longer time and you can really find your look; it’s everything except fast fashion,” Dixdotter said.When designing this collection she imagined someone who has arrived at the style that works best for her, and is comfortable in it. Maggie Mauer was just the model to portray this woman, who approaches her wardrobe as she might the decoration of her home, with careful consideration and an expectation of longevity.Dixdotter is attracted to soft and fluffy textures, which she used here for a shearling skirt suit and a camel cape with fringe. There is a chunky handknit sweater in winter white as well as easy to wear and travel with ribbed-knit sets, as well as coats in double-face fabrics. The one dissonant note was a striped pajama suit, which felt overtly rather than suggestively, boho. Waist defining suits, with a hint of New Look curviness added to the overall harmonic vibe.
7 June 2023
With her fall collection for By Malene Birger, Maja Dixdotter proved once again that she is a designer who can see the forest for the trees. Her vision for the house has been clear from the start, but to witness the new lineup in the beautiful interiors of the brand’s main offices (high ceilings, white walls, light wooden floors) confirmed just how thought-through and consistent that vision is.Less has always been more for this designer, whose take on minimal dressing is a “warm” one, thanks to the bohemian touches she often uses. More recently, Dixdotter has started to move toward an even greater simplicity, both in the way she works and the way the clothes look, and it really showed in this offering.Dixtotter wore a black double-face wool dress with a slit detail on the sleeve, accessorized with a sandy-colored crochet scarf. The dress was something she had perfected by wear-testing and refitting over the course of almost two years. “It’s just an example of how, if you have enough time, if you don’t stress through things, and if you try really to work in a pure way and not think trends—I try to never think trends—then it really gives a good result,” she said. Dixdotter’s interest is in setting a recognizable style.In making the season’s lookbook, Dixdotter created something of an analog feeling by printing photographs—completely unretouched, she said—photographing them again and then arranging them in a way she described as “a little bit scrapbook-y.” This seems a wonderful way to describe how By Malene Birger’s simple pieces come alive through styling. You can add something you already own or just pile separates on top of each other. One of the looks on a mannequin consisted of about five pieces of smoky gray cashmere, one of which was a hood with long ties, worn as an overskirt.The double-faced wools, the teddy-like knits, the reversible brown leather to sandy-colored shearling coat (which was surprisingly light), and the blanket-fringed jacket and skirt were all soft to the touch. Plus they looked warm, which is not to be overlooked at a time when electricity rates are soaring and heat is being used sparingly. This lineup of cozy chic clothes from By Malene Birger keeps the home fires burning.
31 January 2023
Maja Dixdotter has revamped By Malene Birger with amazing speed, aligning the brand with cool bohemian minimalism. Without abandoning that vibe, there were some experimental undercurrents in her pre-fall collection that place Dixdotter in dialogue with some new directions (trend is too strong a word) in fashion.“Sometimes it’s nice to work super simple,” the designer said on a call. One of the ways she did that was to take a rectangular length of fabric and drape it to cascade down the back, suspended only by slender silken spaghetti straps. (For a more modest look, the streamers can be wrapped and tied around the body.) This called to mind the sort of elemental, almost “no-sew” approach seen in some of the spring collections (see Ashyln and Maryam Nassir Zadeh), where the designers interfered as little as possible with the textile, challenging themselves to work around existing vintage materials or to create garments with one seam.The impulse to roam is part of Dixdotter’s brand of bohemianism, and this season she applied slits in the shape of arches to easy ensembles with a vaguely Moroccan air. A golden-colored wide plissé set with button details brought to mind the organic beauty of Romeo Gigli’s work without being referential. The sturdy silvery fabric used on a kimono-style coat projected an air of serenity, as did the “harmonious colors” she used throughout the collection.
10 December 2022
For spring, Maja Dixdotter remained loyal to the bohemian minimalist direction she's set for the house. She established the color palette by gathering “pictures of things that I felt looked fresh,” such as tulips,“to get a vibe and to get into the right feeling that I want the wearer to have when seeing the collection,” the designer explained in the showroom. Tulips also informed the rounded shape on a peplum dress.A well-worn shearling purse from the 1970s inspired the “messiness”—a relative term at By Malene Birger—of fringe. There are three variations of it on the collection: Deep, long fringe that falls from the cape collar of a long dress; shorter, piled fringe, like the one that runs down the front of a sleeveless white dress, and the more subtle raw edges of a nicely tailored suit. Pops of red gave the offering some zing. Newest in terms of silhouette, was a super roomy suspender jumpsuit that was poetry in motion.
12 August 2022
We live in an age of obsessive documentation in which the camera is king and connections are virtual. Add quarantine to that mix, and a lot of designers have gone back to thinking about the tactile aspects of fashion, how fabric feels on skin. By Malene Birger’s creative director Maja Dixdotter has prioritized texture from the start of her tenure. (And, as co-founder ofCappelen Dimyr, a rug company, Dixdotter’s interest in touch extends beyond fashion.)The hero piece of the resort collection might be a cow-print calf hair and leather coat with a neat, vaguely ’60s silhouette. It comes in all-black, too, for those looking for something more understated. A terry-like fabric is cut into a roomy trench with a super-long scarf featuring a fine fringe that adds some movement to the collection. Crisper fabrics are worked into beautifully shaped tailored pieces, but knits of all sorts are in the majority. The one touch of color comes from a fluffy sweater and midi skirt in a tempting shade of macaroon pink. Yum.
17 June 2022
Rather than trying to reinvent the wheel every season, Maja Dixdotter takes an evolutionary approach to design at By Malene Birger, building on what came before. The creative director has made bohemian-infused minimalism the brand’s code, and the fall collection underlined her commitment to it.Textiles and textures are drivers for Dixdotter’s creativity and she chooses her materials with comfort in mind. Knitwear is an important category for her, and fall’s focus was on nubby knits. Fluffy shearling created a different kind of softness as did a somewhat bulky full-length “fur” that was an example, she said, of her maximalist approach to minimalism this season. Leather and tailoring provided structure and balance.The city of Florence inspired the palette, especially the warm yellows. “When I look back to my studies [in Florence], everything I did [was] also all these golden tones and dusty shades, which apparently I really like,” Dixdotter said. Sporty nylon was newer territory, and she also included some scalloped-edge pieces with a more graphic and cooler mood than the rest of the lineup. This was a warm collection, infused with the light of the south, but it spoke to the northern soul.
3 February 2022
It’s clear that Maja Dixdotter, nearing her second year at By Malene Birger, is feeling at ease and at home at the brand. In a short time she’s made textiles and texture her signatures, drawing on her experience working with interiors, no doubt. The plissé sets she showed for fall 2022 were a hit, and knitwear remains a key category. For pre-fall, light ribbed versions and openweaves shared space with cozier and denser knits. A column dress of rust-colored jersey with a pull-on cowled capelet was an example of warm minimalism at its best. Some of the looks in shiny satins, in contrast, read as glib.The main story here was the exploration of “raw” textures. “I always find natural fibers very attractive and nice to work with. I think one of the first qualities I found was the super heavy linen with the long fringes; it just feels very close to nature,” Dixdotter saidon a call. “I think it’s fun to try to do something super feminine out of that [rawness]. Balancing the calm, neutral tones of the undyed linen are pops of a bright blue. As Dixdotter likened the process of building this collection to decorating a house, it’s fitting that the injection of color was inspired by a painting in the designer’s own home.
17 December 2021
With her sophomore collection for By Malene Birger, Maja Dixdotter confirmed the GPS coordinates she punched in last season. But in contrast to the chic nomads who stalked rapidly through the brand’s spring film toward an unknown destination, it’s clear that the designer is moving forward slowly and with a set direction. “For me, it’s a lot about continuation, about building this style universe,” she said.Spring 2022 is a recognizable evolution of fall 2021 in terms of silhouette and texture. Knits are back but less chunky; there’s smooth leather and, unexpectedly, soft velvet, which is generally a fall fabric. Dixdotter says she likes contrasts. Comfort is high on her list as well.Fall’s hygge mood has been replaced with one that’s more adventurous—minimalism meets Marrakech. A dress with printed frames conjured Yves Saint Laurent in Morocco for me, but that wasn’t on Dixdotter’s radar at all. Folk costumes and the confidence she’s observed in many older people were among her observations, yet she stresses that she prefers her work to be unconnected to specific references or places. “I just want it to be super free,” she said. “I hope [my work] is perceived as bohemian luxe.” Done and done.
12 August 2021
“Put a bib on it” seems to be the current Scandi style secret. Maja Dixdotter, the new head of design at By Malene Birger, had layered one over a knit dress when we met on Zoom, and she looked fantastic and warm. It’s squared shape was repeated throughout a confident collection in which comfort was balanced by chic.With easy, chunky knits and oversized, fringed scarfs you can sink your hands into, Dixdotter, who is Swedish, displays her fluency in hygge. “I’ve always been very interested in doing clothes that have a nice comfort with a great pattern,” says the designer, who has transformed a trench and other outerwear pieces into something extra by adding a square sort of collar. The out-of-proportion neckline of a boiled wool coat makes a statement. “I wanted the collection to feel very substantial, also from a distance,” she adds. “So the idea of blowing up something to give it an interesting view came down a lot to the fabrics and the fibers. We’ve worked a lot with blowing up details, but also blowing up textures.” Adding to the medley of proportions and texture is a soothing palette of cream, beige, and rust. A touch of red acts like an exclamation point.“This season is a call to stop, look, and embrace the bigger picture,” the show notes read. Dixdotter did just that by playing with perspective in an upside-down world. Her approach, she said, was “to look at small things and try to see what happens if you zoom in. It turns out to be quite interesting.” Indeed.
3 February 2021
At By Malene Birger this season, Mathilde Torp Mader said she called on the spirit of Peggy Guggenheim, the American art collector who made her home in Venice. “Effortless chic” was the way she described the aesthetic, and overall it was a continuation of what she’s been successfully doing for the brand since she took the creative helm in 2018. Though, the Guggenheim reference was hard to decipher—most people don’t associate the artsy socialite with effortlessness; eccentricity was more her register. Torp Mader herself is more a Phoebe Philo type, which comes through in her collections.Color-blocked knits and modest scarf-print silk skirts and dresses presented a way for #OldCéline fans to dress at an accessible price point. Other highlights included the pinstripe and beige double-breasted suits and the textured overcoats; Torp Mader’s tailoring was typically on point. She deserves praise for transforming this commercial brand into one with a sophisticated yet approachable attitude. Hers is a label that any woman can buy into, whether she’s a Phoebe or a Peggy.
30 January 2020
For a Danish designer based between London and Copenhagen, By Malene Birger’s Mathilde Torp Mader has a solid understanding of classic American sportswear. For Spring she did a fine job of refining and translating the aesthetic so that it makes sense in the context of Danish design. A blue quilting pattern decorated a long-sleeve day dress, and baseball stripes appeared on an oversized overcoat. There were also baseball hats crafted with a basket weave and a high crown, which added a playful edge to the sporty ensembles and highlighted Mader’s appealing way of infusing herself into familiar aesthetics. Highlights included the cool green netting styled over one of the sleeveless printed dresses, the feather trim on a black coat, and the gold Brancusi-esque hardware decorating a few of the sharp linen tops.
9 August 2019
After two seasons as creative director of By Malene Birger, Mathilde Torp Mader is starting to settle into her role. Her Fall 2019 show for the O.G. Danish contemporary label was held inside the company’s charming 19th-century National Romantic–style headquarters. The smaller, more classic space helped to highlight the sophistication behind her designs. Overall, the styling was smart, and the lineup of clothes streamlined. The soft and subtle mixed-print dresses topped with backless sweater-vests didn’t feel too fussy or forced, and a white shearling peacoat worn over cropped wide-leg knit trousers served as evidence of Torp Mader’s ability to create chic, effortless fashion.In fact, her minimally minded pieces have the potential to draw in a substantial international contingent in a post–Phoebe Philo world (especially among those who want that look for slightly less money). Torp Mader is solid when it comes to her craft and her point of view, even if she missteps slightly here and there with a playful embellishment or a quirky silhouette. She’s a fine talent on the Copenhagen fashion scene, paving an exciting path for the next iteration of By Malene Birger.
1 February 2019
Things were lighter than last season at today’s By Malene Birger show. Instead of a near-pitch-black room with stadium seating, there was light streaming in through windows; pretty blooms in cute plastic bags; a variety of infused waters; and an actual runway, as opposed to the giant movie screen that served as the viewing mechanism for Fall 2018. That was head designer Mathilde Torp Mader’s debut for the Danish fashion brand, and, unfortunately, watching it on a big plasma, it was difficult to connect with her designs. For Spring 2019, Mader stepped it up and had models actually wearing the clothes, which helped with being able to grasp her skill level. And they were good clothes too, namely the long-sleeve rib-knit dresses in brown and navy with stitch detailing at the neck and wrists and loosely tied lacing at the sides. The high-waist skirt with mixed lacing and button detailing (inspired by a vintage burlesque dancer’s corset Mader found at a market) was of note, as was a Victorian-inspired ruched top and skinny pants set.Mader also dove into the By Malene Birger archives to source the collection’s main print: a black-and-white abstract doodle of a voluptuous naked woman in several seductive poses. It was a drawing made originally by Malene Birger herself, and Mader said that she incorporated it to make “the old new again.” That notion applied not only to the sexy-lady motifs but also to the corset detailing on the skirts, as well as a cut-out stretch fabric used for versatile dresses and tops that she borrowed from an old pair of Punk-era stockings. It was in these “old is new” pieces that Mader really showed her design chops. The three sequined looks that closed the show, on the other hand, seemed a little too “party girl” or Instagram influencer–friendly for the otherwise streamlined collection. Mader is a solid designer and she doesn’t need any smoke and mirrors (or sequins) to make it fresh.
9 August 2018
The By Malene Birger show wasn’t a show at all. After walking into the gargantuan space listed on the invitation, the crowd was seated stadium style in front of an also gargantuan panoramic screen. Ominous music began to play and so did a film. On the screen were models dressed in Mathilde Torp Mader’s debut collection as head designer of the brand. It lasted for about seven minutes and acted as a sort of commercial—models walking in and out of the frame, standing still on a rotating pedestal together, that sort of thing. It was an interesting approach, for sure, but overall it was quite difficult to get a sense of what the clothes actually looked like and felt like IRL. Even though we largely consume fashion on our mobile and computer screens these days, there remains much value in seeing a live show and it would have been nice to get a more visceral understanding of how Mader works and how she’ll evolve the label.Some pieces that you could definitely make out were the nicely tailored suits and a cool mint green long-sleeved dress that moved well. Knitwear was notable, too, especially the creatively layered tan turtlenecks that bunched up just below the chin. Mader is undoubtedly talented and an aesthetic fit for the brand, and she certainly gets points for risk-taking. But By Malene Birger is an already established label with a loyal following. If she goes too far with show concepts and the clothes, those fans might not wait for the film credits to roll.
1 February 2018
Malene Birger’s Fall lineup featured contemporary takes on traditional, feminine suiting and pencil skirts, as well as embellishments and velvet for evening. Everything was geared toward her loyal band of followers—mainly, young ladies who work hard, play hard, and tend not to stray too far from current trends. There were velvet track pants paired with bejeweled sleeveless tops and mid-length puffers and textured overcoats, some with scarves tied like obi belts around the shoulders.Birger also showed a diverse range of practical day bags that included everything from an oversize black pleather messenger to a red snakeskin top handle. It was sellable and wearable without a doubt, but for a collection that came with a black-and-white top printed with the words “Ms Mischief,” the clothes weren’t very daring.
4 February 2017
For Spring,By Malene Birgercreative director Christina Exsteen's eye fell on a languid if generally somewhat runway-referential sensibility (bags and the furry clompers some models sported in particular felt pretty Philo-esque). Spare slip dresses bore dense, lush beading or came trailing long strings, and there were plenty of the certain modish stripe of slinky ribbed-knit dresses and separates. Pajama looks, notably a pair in piped cobalt satin, were winning, nicely embodying the kind of glam that the By Malene Birger name is so synonymous with in the Scandi fashion landscape.
12 August 2016
For the better part of 15 years,By Malene Birgerhas been perfecting a brand of womanly glamour that has earned the label fans as far-ranging as Helena Christensen and Denmark’s Crown Princess Mary.Fall ’16 found new creative director Christina Exsteen riffing on the notion of a 21st-century femme fatale; she sent out richly jewel-toned leathers and furs, sweeping gowns, and smart-looking suits on a typically starry cast of models including Eniko Mihalik, Antonina Petkovic, and hometown beauties Caroline Brasch Nielsen and Josephine Skriver.
5 February 2016
Founder: Malene Birger, who left the company in 2014, handing over the reins to protégé Christina ExsteenYear established: 2003Known for: Easy, feminine sophistication; eclectic prints; and contemporary eleganceWorn by: HRH Crown Princess Mary, Helena ChristensenStocked at: Net-a-Porter, MyTheresa, Intermix, the brand's own flagship storesSpring '16 inspired by: '70s nostalgia, breezy but structured tailoring, and head-to-toe knits
6 August 2015
Founder: Malene Birger, who last year handed over the reins to protégé Christina ExsteenYear established: 2003Known for: Easy, feminine sophistication; eclectic prints; and contemporary eleganceStocked at: Net-a-Porter, Saks Fifth Avenue, MyTheresa, Harvey Nichols
29 January 2015
We're posting runway pictures from Copenhagen Fashion Week for the first time. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don't miss our street-style coverage.
30 January 2013