Genny (Q3995)
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Italian ready-to-wear manufacturer
- Genny Holding S.p.A.
- Genny Group
- Genny s.r.l.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Genny |
Italian ready-to-wear manufacturer |
|
Statements
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1997
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1980
chair of board of directors
Gabriele Colangelo is back on track. Considerably cleaned up, his new collection for Genny was an extended riff on the jacket—an original building block of this Italian brand and a piece of clothing particularly suited to Colangelo's methodical mind. His double-breasted extended jacket-dress with a longer fox-fur back was a bit of a dud (his shorter-in-front, longer-in-back idea admittedly did more for jackets than it did for miniskirts), but for the most part, the designer resisted overthinking things. An ivory double wool felt cape worn over a turtleneck and trousers in the same icy shade was sleek and streamlined, and a tailored jumpsuit in navy blue wool pinstripes had an unfussy sensibility. There was a lot more work involved in a jacket with sleeves constructed from chevrons of embroidered ponyskin (statement sleeves: having a moment); still, the results were cool, not crafty.For evening, Colangelo cut a pair of column dresses with slits at the hips held together with narrow gold tabs, and a strapless champagne-colored number with a contrasting leather band at the bust—they were harder to picture hanging in a department store than the daywear, but not by that much. This show situates Genny in Phoebe Philo and Francisco Costa's school of minimalism. That seems like a sensible place from which to try to restart the label.
23 February 2013
When you think about brand revivals that have stuck—Givenchy's comeback at the hands of Riccardo Tisci, Peter Dundas' rehab of Emilio Pucci, the nascent Kenzo turnaround courtesy of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim—the one thing nearly all of them have done is set their sights on the young. For better or worse, in the fashion world that seems to be where the action is. Three seasons in at Genny, the Italian sportswear brand once helmed by the heat-seeking Gianni Versace himself, Gabriele Colangelo still hasn't quite found his footing. As he did at his signature collection—where, by the way, he's garnering the attention of top-of-the-masthead types—Colangelo put fabric play at the center of Genny's Spring offerings. There were tapestry jacquards, cotton and linen woven to resemble basket weaves, and an oversize geometric print based on intarsia here—all a bit more mumsy than he probably intended. A bit too thinky. Another idea might be to zero in on cut and proportion, and really consider the way young women who love fashion are wearing their clothes now.
21 September 2012
Josephus Thimister's graphic, fluid presentation for Genny was inspired by the Russian constructivist artists of the '20s. Centered on the idea of contrasts, Thimister alternated between rigorous tweeds, light muslin and patchworks of shimmering, ethereal fabrics. His color palette paid homage to Kandinsky, relying on hues of pale green, tangerine, magenta and peach, with occasional bursts of violet. The masterful way Thimister gathered sheer tops and layered delicate skirts evinced his couture background; the dreamy mood was offset by sharp trousers and sleek coats. Genny's collection was a tribute to the designer's ability to combine seemingly disparate elements in a sophisticated and beautiful manner.
22 February 2000