Carlos Miele (Q4028)
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Carlos Miele is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Carlos Miele |
Carlos Miele is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Daywear and separates were the focus of Carlos Miele's new Resort collection. The Brazilian designer, who is best known for his over-the-top eveningwear, restrained himself here and showed a lineup of more viable pieces, such as a sporty little white dress with a sheer mesh neckline and curved illusion seams that suggested the Girl from Ipanema at Wimbledon. Miele sprinkled of-the-moment details such as graphic cutouts, punky spiked hardware, and artisanal embellishments throughout the mix, and generally laid off his typical flashy prints. A sheer white button-up worn over a bandeau top and paired with coated-python trousers was a standout look, as was an embroidered miniskirt shown with a white T-shirt. He included several gowns that seemed sleeker and more pared-down than his usual fare.
17 June 2013
After ten years of showing at the tents and Lincoln Center, Carlos Miele opted out of an official New York show this season, and will instead present his Fall collection during Miami fashion week in March, where he will accept the International Designer of the Year award. While doing the whole Miami thing makes sense with Miele's sunny Brazilian disposition (and festive clientele), it's also a shame because the new lineup brought more urban ideas to the table than ever. Look no further than the red leather biker suit here, which was admittedly a bit tacky but also signaled a step in a different, younger direction. A menswear-y tweed tuxedo jacket with a spray of sequins, for example, achieved this in a more subtle, luxurious way. Speaking of luxe, there was a killer crocodile coat here trimmed in mink on the sleeves and hemline. Interestingly enough, the topper was nearly identical to one Miele sent down the runway for Fall '07. Two steps forward, one step back. Aside from that, he revisited other signatures like ruching and draping on evening gowns. In the red carpet-worthy category, a bias-cut crimson silk halter number with swirling embroidery stood out.
19 February 2013
After stampeding a menagerie of animal prints down his Spring runway, Carlos Miele toned things down for pre-fall. His new lineup introduced subtler looks like a nude-colored spaghetti-strap column gown with allover radial beading that infused a soft Deco glint. It stood apart from other, more formal numbers featuring the Brazilian designer's trademark ruching and micro-pleats. A marbleized silk floor-scraper with a turquoise studded halterneck, on the other hand, nicely balanced Miele's over-the-top tendencies with his newer, streamlined side.
10 December 2012
A trip to the zoo prompted Carlos Miele's two-year-old son to draw pictures of the animals he observed. A blue giraffe emerged, and for Miele, inspiration struck. "I wanted to create a hallucination jungle," the designer said before his show. Lightness in the jungle's tropical heat was important, so Miele incorporated movement into his looks, using lots of chiffon and borders of fringe. His son's blue giraffe appeared; a tiger in oxidized yellow was also part of the menagerie. Layered together, as they were in the opening look's giraffe caftan and long leopard dress, they did look hallucinatory and like an animal lover's trippy dream. It would have been fun to see more prints in the mix (what else did Miele's son come up with?), but instead black dresses with Deco beading and dripping sequins pulled you out of the jungle. The beading, and the turquoise stones on necklines and shoes, served as a grounding element amid all the frothy chiffon but at times felt unnecessarily heavy. Fantastical and acid-hued, this was a collection for dreamers.
9 September 2012
If the pants, ponchos, and swimsuits of recent collections positioned Carlos Miele outside his comfort zone, his new Resort range finds him returning him to what he does best: evening gowns. Taking a sharp turn from Fall's pampas-inspired look, the Brazilian designer crafted a tight, focused set of dresses, in both cocktail and floor-skimming styles—with a tea-length number thrown in for good measure. Miele really upped the quality and workmanship of his offerings, some of which will garner a new-for-the-designer atelier label (which comes with a heftier price tag). See the silk charmeuse strapless number, whose blue feather-like design was inspired by bird wings, and a dusty-rose-colored one-shoulder gown that was purposely made to look unfinished and rough around its beaded edges. The double-faced gold and brown tulip-shaped dress with an asymmetrical top and fan-like pleating was another winner. It radiated glamour—just what every red-carpet-goer wants and needs.
5 June 2012
Thegaúchas, or cowgirls, of Rio Grande do Sul (Brazil's southernmost state) were the inspiration for Carlos Miele's Fall show. Miele, a Brazilian, has always drawn from his country's rich heritage, but this collection, more than others, felt especially indebted to a specific people and place. A prelude of Latin beats spun by the Brazilian brothers Anthony and Sean Souza (sons of Carlos, the popular, long-serving Valentino public relations executive) set the mood, and then the first look out dropped the audience squarely in cattle country. A pair of cropped and roomy crepe pants and a soft wool poncho came topped with a flat, black bolero.The pants would have been perfect for horseback riding, and the cape was inset with a wide band of patterned woven silk. The geometric interweaving on the cape was Miele's interpretation of the region's traditional embroideries, but the hat, like a few textiles used throughout the show, was a real-dealgaúchaoriginal. With the mood thus established, Miele promptly riffed on the theme, sending out über-chic daywear and evening gowns that would feel out of place, to say the least, among livestock.For night, the idea of banded embroidery translated into a cocktail dress made of horizontal strips of thinly spaced silk. The ribbons, azure blue, were attached to a nude tulle underlay, and they moved apart as the model walked, creating the impression of a Venetian blind peeking open and shut. Sexy, it got a sophisticated boost from the delicately beaded bolero worn with it. The boleros were a highlight, and their assured simplicity made up for the too-shiny lamé on some dresses and the riot of treatments on another (draped pleatsandfringeandmetal coin appliqués, for example). But a more-is-more attitude is a central part of this brand's DNA, and Miele succeeded in creating the requisite sense of luxury without going over the top. He obviously felt at home this season. The pampas were a sweet place to set up shop.
12 February 2012
There's something to be said for Carlos Miele's consistency. The Brazilian designer's over-the-top gowns have attracted gala-bound dames and debutantes alike for nearly ten years. But in the ever-evolving fashion industry, a little variety is always welcome, and Miele's pre-fall collection suggested a change in the winds for the eveningwear-driven brand.Sure, Miele's signaturefuxicopuckering made an appearance, as did calling cards like his showy starched taffeta and sunburst-pleated silk. But it was the two impressionist floral printed looks that really stood out. One featured strands of metallic seed beads that added a curtainlike sparkle to the gown's bust, while the second looked like a Monet painting wrapped and sculpted into a strapless column. Other up-to-date elements here included Miele's experimentation with on-trend peplums on both a short champagne-colored party frock and a timely one-shouldered number the color of a red carpet.
14 December 2011
Backstage after his show, Carlos Miele shared his vision of paradise, one in which there is "a perpetual sun" (insert global-warming joke here). As it turned out, Miele's utopia was plenty wet, too. A strong aquatic element was present from day to night: One of the caftans that opened the show—it was draped over a sleek white one-piece swimsuit—was printed with giant koi fish. On the finale gown, the fan detailing on the bodice made the model look as if she were emerging from a clamshell, Botticelli-style. Colors were vivid, fabrics slinky. One top looked like a deflated disco ball, almost ready to take a spin. Quieter pieces were scattered throughout, such as a long draped skirt that swooped up the center to reveal a flash of leg. For those who like it hot, there will be plenty here to choose from.
11 September 2011
Carlos Miele looked to Rio de Janeiro in the 1970's for Resort inspiration. There were plenty of his signature, high-spirited gowns (see: the cobalt blue halter number with puckered silkfuxicodetail), but the Brazilian designer has been trying to ramp up his daywear offerings for a while now, and he showed a few looks here that were welcome departures from his normal fare. While two-tone palazzo pants with a high waist or a slick denim suit with flared trousers seemed a little tooCharlie's Angels, a white crepe jumpsuit and a coral romper could work with heels or at the beach. And speaking of the beach, Miele showed swimwear for the first time. Considering how much Brazilians love their bikinis, it's surprising that it took him this long to get around to it. The results should be a hit with Miele fans looking for something less formal and expensive.
1 June 2011
Carlos Miele's runway show today had some of the vim and vigor of a Brazilianfutebolmatch, and a crowd to match. To be expected: splashy gowns with vibrant patterns and elaborate embellishments. The designer delivered on that with a rose velvet halter number ruched to look braided up the front for a multidimensional feel. And his print of choice this season, which showed up on two chiffon finale dresses, was taken from blown-up digital satellite photos. But Miele explained backstage that he had also tried to go in a different direction for Fall, focusing more on eveningwear separates, like the voluminous silk "pajama" pants he paired with a striped top in juicy brights.Miele took steps in the right direction, but it's going to take some more dressing down for him to build a younger, broader client base. His favorite piece in the collection was one of the most straightforward: a crepe jumpsuit—which came in vermilion and cream, with a low neckline and velvet sash—that looked killer worn with a duchesse hood. Of course, fur was big here as well. Miele favored fox, using it on a "natural section" short cape and a long black vest, either of which would increase the luxe factor of any outfit.
13 February 2011
"We don't need no education! We don't need no thought control!" Singer Bebel Gilberto wore a strapless silk dress from Carlos Miele's Spring line as she opened the show with a Pink Floyd cover. Prog rock meets bossa nova was not the only cross-pollination on the runway: Miele invited jeweler Ivanka Trump to bring on the diamonds. Both are known for über luxury and a flair for the dramatic, and they made beautiful music together.The lineup began with a lovely off-white and lime silk-charmeuse dress with a zipper appliqué—but the tempo really picked up midway, with the arrival of a pair of high-waisted pants and a silk T-shirt with a butterfly print that was used in abundance. "Few creatures embody the state of being carefree as perfectly as the ever-flitting butterfly," the program notes explained.There were sheers—by now, it's obvious, a big trend for Spring—and lots of ripe color. A navy crepe jacket (also with that zipper appliqué) looked very desirable, and cargo pants were refreshing, but the finale showcased what Miele does best: ball dresses. Black tulle gowns with geometric embroidery were the stars of the party. If you're a woman who wants to look and feel sexy without subscribing to any one trend, Carlos is your guy.
12 September 2010
Evening looks made up the entirety of Carlos Miele's Resort collection, but that didn't mean this was totally business as usual from the festive-minded Brazilian designer. Silver chains and dark beaded trims added some much-needed toughness to pretty crepe gowns and satin minidresses. Other gowns were actually two looks for the price of one, a popular conceit this Resort season. A red accordion-pleated number featured a detachable train, and a black strapless chiffon look came with an elaborate (and fully removable) one-shouldered sequin overlay.Miele doesn't necessarily need to tweak his formula—he owns one of the biggest fashion brands in one of the world's most populated countries, after all—but he's smart enough to incorporate fresh ideas each season, this one being no exception.
15 June 2010
The colorful, curve-hugging gowns Carlos Miele sent out today on the bodacious Constance Jablonski showed the designer in his element. "I wanted everything to feel glamorous and positive," he said backstage, holding up a color-blocked purple, red, and fuchsia charmeuse dress. Miele has reason to be looking on the bright side: The economy in his native Brazil has rebounded far more quickly than other countries from the global recession.The focus wasn't just on festive frocks, though. Cropped fox jackets and swingy astrakhan coats played a role, and the designer mixed in a 100 percent organic denim trouser from his lower-priced jeans line. Handworked details, another Miele signature, felt too craft-y in the case of a bolero constructed from loops of fabric and chains, but the rosette detail on a gold minidress—sewn by favela residents the designer trains and employs—was as subtle as those gowns were bold.
14 February 2010
Expect some new choices at Carlos Miele next spring. "I really wanted to focus on separates this season," the designer said backstage, "and I also used a lot of black." Say what? In fact, Miele, who has built a global brand centered mostly on dramatic gowns—colorful ones, at that—did not stray too far from his signature look. There were plenty of floor-length chiffon numbers, in bright prints based on photographs he captured on the streets of Rio de Janeiro in his native Brazil. But the sheer blouses, cropped wool trousers, and little vests decorated with silk "dreadlocks" proved the designer is more than capable of producing sophisticated daywear. As for the emphasis on darker hues, Miele was frank: "It's the main color selling for us right now." Economy-related or not, it's smart to offer customers more diversity these days.
13 September 2009
"Each season I fall more in love with architecture," Carlos Miele said backstage, discussing the graphic geometric prints that anchored his latest effort. Although some of his patterned eveningwear felt too busy for even the most vivacious São Paulinas, of which there were a few in attendance, a burn-out technique applied to mink coats had better results. Miele once collaborated with Sol LeWitt, the American artist known for spatial manipulation, and the experience has clearly stayed with him; hence the origamilike detail on boleros and the designer's signature gowns.Before he started designing for the red carpet, the Brazilian made a name for himself with denim in his native country. A new ultra-luxe jean line, introduced today, is a smart strategy to lure stateside customers who think of Miele only for special occasions.
15 February 2009
A celebration of all things Brazilian was at the core of Carlos Miele's Spring show. Megastar Seu Jorge performed live; "it was a special song I made just for Carlos," the singer said backstage, fresh from mingling with the models as they breezed across the runway in the floaty chiffon gowns Miele is known for. Miele drew inspiration from the lush rain forest that borders his hideaway in Florianópolis: The shadows, colors, and movement of the vegetation inspired splashy tropical patterns and billowy, whisper-thin layers. Brazilian-sourced natural stones were polished and used to trim plunging necklines, while extra-chunky rough-cut versions adorned cuffs and rings. A standout military jacket was also given the Miele treatment and edged with chiffon fan pleats. So what is the thread that ties it all together? Seu Jorge summed it up best: "Carlos and I have strong roots in our country, yet we are citizens of the world. But when all is said and done, we do it the Brazilian way."
9 September 2008
Last season, we saw Carlos Miele in the midst of a clean-up act, jettisoning some of the excess that has previously weighed down his collections. His Fall show was an evolution of the same process, with the designer trying harder than ever to utilize his powers of restraint—insofar as that's allowed under Brazilian law. Fresh off the accomplishment of designing his 8,000-square-foot São Paulo boutique and his beach house on the island of Florianópolis, Miele had architecture on the brain. In seasons past, this reference wouldn't have been subtle, but here he worked it gently into the curved seams and twisted straps of colorful, fluid gowns that snaked gracefully around the body, and into the texture of square pleating on coats, skirts, and sculptural cable knits. An injection of menswear—particularly a black blazer worn over an evening skirt—was unexpected but wholly welcome: It was a great counterpoint to Miele's typical va-va-voom femininity. With his new ad campaign now hitting magazines, the designer's more restrained approach is picking up steam.
5 February 2008
Blame it on the bossa nova.OK, forgive the cliché, but business is swinging cool for this Brazilian designer. Backstage, Miele energetically rattled off all the news: The first store for his second line, Miele, will open in Miami this December; there are plans for 20 more in the next year, including one on swank Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris; and the international ad campaign for his signature line will be shot byVanity Fair's fashion director, Michael Roberts.Out on the runway it was a more serene scene. After last season's whirlwind runway tour of three cities (a slightly strange trip), Miele had found himself listening to Sinatra, from back in the days when Old Blue Eyes brought Brazilian jazz to world attention and introduced us to the Girl From You Know Where. And so Miele returned to his roots, to the warm colors and chill culture of his beloved country.This time, Miele restrained himself a bit. It was a case of the same ingredients, but an improved recipe. Balance was the name of the game. Dresses that made ample use of the handworked pleating that Miele has long favored, produced in São Paolo'sfavelas, were unembellished. Grand gowns were quieted by a pale, pearly hue. And when he did use bright color, he held back on beading. Naturally, this being Miele, there were a few moments of overexuberance.… But, well, you know where to lay the blame for that.
5 September 2007
"I never had so much fun doing a collection!" said this Brazilian designer fervently. The reason? Love. "To have your muse by your side is the best thing," he gushed backstage before his show. The object of his enthusiasm is his newish girlfriend, Alex Kramer, a pretty blonde social who has taken on a serious advisory role.The most notable change in the Miele mien is that this time, glitzy embellishment was kept to a minimum. The genesis of the Fall collection was a tale of three cities: New York (the base for his business), São Paulo (his hometown), and Paris (where Miele is planning to open a boutique). The designer had been struck by the way Kramer dressed differently as they bounced between the three capitals. Hence, the City of Light was referenced in printed dresses that recalled classic Emanuel Ungaro. Belted jackets in perforated suede and leather were quintessential New York sportswear. And there was a brief nod to the Brazilian metropolis in a few animal-print evening dresses.But this was far from a perfect collection. It fell occasionally into the mousetrap of cheesiness—see the hot-pink bomber and black silk skirt. And a number of pieces, in particular the pants, were overly fussy. Still, it was good to see a designer who has been criticized for being flashy and a bit overwrought rein himself in.
6 February 2007
Carlos Miele opened his Bryant Park show with a quartet of models standing around chatting as if at a cocktail party—a fitting scenario for this collection, which was almost entirely given over to the sort of evening looks one might find at a chic beachside bash. Save for a few shorts and bikinis, it was a parade of sexy, bias-cut chiffon dresses, mostly in bright colors or prints, often embroidered with crystal details, but with little, other than length, to distinguish one from the next. Evident throughout were the artisan techniques Miele uses to delicate effect. Still, the collection needed more variety.While there's certainly a market for that dress—in Miele's native Brazil and Palm Beach and other parts—the global customer he is aiming to reach by showing in New York can hardly live by wispy silk confections alone. It would be nice to see the designer acknowledge that life is not always a beach, and bring his sense of flair to pieces that would work for locales other than the seaside.
12 September 2006