Hanii Y (Q4236)

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Hanii Y is a fashion house from FMD.
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Hanii Y
Hanii Y is a fashion house from FMD.

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    If Hanii Y's Resort collection was nostalgic—spurred on by a vision of Granville, the French seaside town where Christian Dior was born—the label's Spring outing sought to evoke a slightly different mood: déjà vu. This time, it was back to the past with a twist. The maritime palette, feminine shapes, and ladylike flourishes returned, but with a graphic, poppy punch—traces of Japanese artist Tokujin Yoshioka, whose work, according to the Hanii Y design team, evokes the union of conscious and unconscious. It made for a collection that whizzed this way and that, with pretty, color-blocked dresses and trenches on the left; soft watercolor prints in the middle; and frilly, slightly over-detailed jackets and capes on the right. But while the something-for-everyone mentality might be a liability on the designer floor, it's more of a strength at the brand's contemporary price point. And if the collection didn't entirely cohere, well, neither does your unconscious.
    29 September 2010
    The Côte d'Azur has been getting a lot of love this season, but for Hanii Y, the quintessential French resort destination is Granville—birthplace of Christian Dior—on the northwest coast. The Normandy seaside town inspired the palette of rich azures and cornflower blues, which were contrasted with sun-bleached neutrals. A great eyelet anorak was derived from photos of embroidered lace drapes, and the ropelike cording on dresses and jackets was a nod to the region's seafaring lifestyle.Hanii Y has been off the New York fashion week schedule for several seasons while the brand's efforts were refocused. If Resort is any indication, the label is back on the right track.
    The current economic climate does not make it easy to grow a high-end label, so it's wise of former Y & Kei designer Hanii Yoon to instead focus her efforts on contemporary line Hanii Y. Now based in New York City, Yoon drew inspiration for the current season from the white summer nights of Denmark, a disorienting phenomenon that, in her mind, led to a blurring between light and dark, reality and dreams. This translated into a sporty but refined collection of folded-pleat skirts (in gauze and printed cotton) and short-sleeved coats—a leather trench and puff-sleeve cotton car coat were both strong. The blurring also took the form of a masculine/feminine play-off, which worked well in a thick cotton anorak with matching Bermuda shorts, but fell short in the form of a tuxedo jacket with organza sleeves. Now that it has Yoon's complete attention, there's no reason Hanii Y shouldn't continue to prosper.
    7 September 2008