Hecho (Q4256)

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Hecho is a fashion house from FMD.
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Hecho
Hecho is a fashion house from FMD.

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    Jack Miner’s Hecho is at a stepping stone in its young life; the label will no longer, for the time being, produce accessories. It will, however, sell to women’s buying teams in addition to men’s. Unisexuality has been peripherally central to Miner’s design aesthetic, but now it’s at the core.In this brand transition, a newly seen maturity shone—Miner had some pretty, elegant material in his Spring mix, while still retaining another one of his focuses, which is easygoing holiday-wear. Say, then, where once a pair of short shorts was done in cotton or linen, it now will come even shorter—and in vaporously light navy silk.Hecho is made in Mexico City, and Miner tends to pick art by the megalopolis’s residents as inspiration. This time it was Manuel Solano, a painter who went blind in his late 20s due to a complication from HIV. But rather than directly reinterpret Solano’s work, the designer instead thought about tactility—striped linen, yarn-dyed twill plaid caftans with distinct up-and-down grooves; beaded agate accents; and pieces that were allover tufted with hand-embroidered thread nubs included. It reminded this writer of a subtle, thoughtful take on braille.Miner is also going beyond Mexico City and its creatives for influence, another tactic in Hecho’s development. For Spring, these wellsprings included Gio Ponti’s collaborative objects and the nonbinary personal style of Mick Jagger in his heyday. That’s a great thing when handled delicately, as it was on the majority today. But the ongoing magic in Hecho is Miner’s increasingly attuned hand at interpreting his original source point’s sweeping, captivating, and ultimately sensuous appeal. A small brand’s output filtered through an enormous place’s endless stimuli equaled big marks this season.
    Jack Miner’s Mexico City–based Hecho is gaining steam. He’s stocked not only by Barneys New York and Matches Fashion, but also a slew of high-concept boutiques everywhere from Tokyo to Barcelona. And the world’s eye is still trained on Miner’s headquarters and source: Mexico City is 2018’s World Design Capital.Extrapolating from that, Miner mentioned that he’s finding that audiences are gravitating toward novelty, artisanal touches, and the craft that’s so pronounced and distinct to the megalopolis and its polychrome culture. This season, like last, he picked an artist as inspiration: Carlos Mérida, a native Guatemalan who spent most of his career living and working in Mexico City. Most notably, Miner licensed lithographic works from Mérida’s “Carnival in Mexico” series, circa 1940, and screened them onto colorful short-sleeved button-downs and excellent, vivid bathing suits.To the above point, this was the most colorful—I daresay, celebratory—Hecho collection to date. Terry robes in spice red and rich maize yellow flanked orange vinyl-taped midi-length shorts, and minty-blue sandals or cerulean slippers stood beneath tie-dyed denim pants that featured frayed accenting. What was best, and what was also in a way quite beautiful, was a piece that at first seemed simplistic: another set of bathing trunks. However, upon explanation, it was revealed that the suit was hand-stitched with 45 rudimentary flowers, all subtly graded in shades of pink. If it is novelty and craft that retail buyers want, they will (or at least should) purchase these without hesitation.
    6 February 2018
    The Mexican artist Pedro Friedeberg served as both a sounding board and a jumping-off point this season at Hecho, the growing Mexico City–based line founded in 2015 by Jack Miner, a New Englander who splits time between the U.S. and D.F.Friedeberg is a surrealist—there are arguable echoes of M.C. Escher and Salvador Dalí in his work—who is likely best known for his “Hand chair,” which is a seat in the shape of a bent human palm. Of the artist’s overall aesthetic, Miner said, “Psychedelic optimism. It works for us.”He was right. Hecho’s core mission is to promote Mexico, and more specifically Mexico City, through a prism that only someone innately familiar with the place and its design culture can do (everything is made locally, too). And Mexico City is as hypnagogic a place as they come, rife with an enormous matrix of the modern, the mid-century, the colonial, even the pre-colonial; atypical in color and burning in scent; and limitless in terms of scale and fingertip-tingling electricity. It’s dreamy in a lucid way, and Miner, initially an outsider to fashion design, has become a stronger designer by diving deeper into its cerebral complex.Lightweight linen guayaberas with frayed pockets, artisanal shorts with hand-fringed banded accents, 8-ounce denim Bermudas with contrast topstitching, post-swim (and decadent) terry cloth robes, and a printed bathing-suit collaboration with Friedeberg himself all registered. Amassed, this was a more fully packaged and realized step for Hecho—and it’s especially impressive that Miner also makes a complete range of shoes (sandals, loafers, slides) and bags (great totes, and, new this season, a cross-body). In a world where loud fashion, andfranticfashion, is so dominant, it’s refreshing to see a thoughtful, quiet left-fielder of a brand put together something as convincing as this. And others are noticing: Barneys New York recently bought the line, a big coup for any sartorial startup.