Loro Piana (Q4657)
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Italian Luxury Company
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Loro Piana |
Italian Luxury Company |
Statements
1941
running of the company
Loro Piana shows its men’s and women’s collections intermingled on mannequins. Walking through the crowd of strikingly styled and hat-heavy—especially in womenswear—static ensembles today we heard how these collections majored on linen, and saw some interesting fabrications. It turns out if you mix linen with cashmere in an undyed cable knit cardigan, its hand-feel retains more of the flaxy hardiness of the vegetal softness of the animal. Linen was elsewhere blended with Manila hemp—a banana plant—or used in handsome triple-bonded summer raincoat cut for both genders. There were linen-silk blends, twisted linens, and linen flower prints.Linen’s most appealing properties include moisture absorption and breathability. Once you breathed a little and instead of trying to absorb the full spectrum of this Loro Piana–verse focused on picking out individual garments—imaginary shopping, basically—today’s presentation became breezier. Womenswear highlights included a gorgeously finished leather field jacket that would have looked delightful over some washed LP denim and a vintage martini-print silk shirt. A highly impressive embroidered and shaved cashmere jacket in a ribbed liner shape looked like a wonderful vintage piece.In menswear a placket fronted suede-collared country jacket— inevitably in treated linen—and a linen-silk (I think) pale herringbone peak-collared suit and shirt were amongst the many fine items. There was a wonderful tweedish looking linen top coat and an irregular oaty melange pattern: however, worn over a gray birds eye work waistcoat, round neck sweater, tie, shirt and double-pleat flannel pant, it looked more 1950s country doctor than 2020s luxury connoisseur. The styling here was too total and too fusty.Past a display of handsome new sunglass styles in Japanese acetate was a room packed with bags that included a cashmere(ish) to the touch nubuck tote lined in real cashmere and a rather small drawstring backpack. The most exciting detail was shown between that room and the next room’s archive of Loro Piana printed scarves: looped from the shoulder of another mannequin was a leather strap whose two buckles were tied into the corners of one of those silk scarves to fashion an ad hoc handbag. That seemed like a pretty interesting way of wearing a “bag” that could be renewed every time the customer acquired a new scarf.
20 September 2024
Loro Piana shows its men’s and women’s collections intermingled on mannequins. Walking through the crowd of strikingly styled and hat-heavy—especially in womenswear—static ensembles today we heard how these collections majored on linen, and saw some interesting fabrications. It turns out if you mix linen with cashmere in an undyed cable knit cardigan, its hand-feel retains more of the flaxy hardiness of the vegetal softness of the animal. Linen was elsewhere blended with Manila hemp—a banana plant—or used in handsome triple-bonded summer raincoat cut for both genders. There were linen-silk blends, twisted linens, and linen flower prints.Linen’s most appealing properties include moisture absorption and breathability. Once you breathed a little and instead of trying to absorb the full spectrum of this Loro Piana–verse focused on picking out individual garments—imaginary shopping, basically—today’s presentation became breezier. Womenswear highlights included a gorgeously finished leather field jacket that would have looked delightful over some washed LP denim and a vintage martini-print silk shirt. A highly impressive embroidered and shaved cashmere jacket in a ribbed liner shape looked like a wonderful vintage piece.In menswear a placket fronted suede-collared country jacket— inevitably in treated linen—and a linen-silk (I think) pale herringbone peak-collared suit and shirt were amongst the many fine items. There was a wonderful tweedish looking linen top coat and an irregular oaty melange pattern: However, worn over a gray birds eye work waistcoat, round neck sweater, tie, shirt and double-pleat flannel pant, it looked more 1950s country doctor than 2020s luxury connoisseur. The styling here was too total and too fusty.Past a display of handsome new sunglass styles in Japanese acetate was a room packed with bags that included a cashmere(ish) to the touch nubuck tote lined in real cashmere and a rather small drawstring backpack. The most exciting detail was shown between that room and the next room’s archive of Loro Piana printed scarves: Looped from the shoulder of another mannequin was a leather strap whose two buckles were tied into the corners of one of those silk scarves to fashion an ad hoc handbag. That seemed like a pretty interesting way of wearing a “bag” that could be renewed every time the customer acquired a new scarf.
20 September 2024
Amidst the milling crowd popping canapes around Loro Piana’s static and featureless mannequins, this presentation contained a jewel. Two gloved custodians stood by a table on which rested this fabric-founded house’s first-ever sample book, from the spring/summer 1926 season. A double breasted suit in the atrium of Loro Piana’s presentation space (just next to the Corriere Della Sera office) had been crafted from a new remix of the house’s very first run, a subtly-striped charcoal wool.Alongside that book was this season’s equivalent, the star swatch of which looked like the kaleidoscopically color-accented dotty Donegal whose wool base had been delicately seasoned with polyamide to give it the lightness and durability today’s LP customers rightly expect. As ever, the house’s design teams leant into multiple categories of classicism to shape a collection dedicated to showcasing the quality of its ingredients. Silk cashmere brocades, buttons, and hat pins were all patterned with the thistle flower that both represents the house and which is central to its processing of some of the world’s finest cashmeres.In menswear a wonderful stash pocket work jacket in cashmere-denim was placed upon its mannequin over a cashmere roll-neck and black cashmere pants. I loved that Donegal in a shirt under a quilt-lined dark wool “fur” jacket; my Runway colleague loved the same fabric used in its womenswear cousin. There was no shortage of soft shouldered cashmere, wool, or vicuna blazers and jackets worn under knitwear both fine and chunky, but always soft. Tucked away in an ante-room was a collection of handsome ski and snow wear to which had been applied Loro Piana’s many weather-repelling systems.In womenswear pill box hats topped stately, eminently polite mid-century skirt and jacket ensembles. There were some beautiful tuxedo-based evening looks with delicately applied thistle embroidery details. Italy holds the presidency of the G7 this year, and you could easily see heads of state from every nation keen to showcase this Loro Piana offer as a nod to the summit of global fabric craft and manufacture.
26 February 2024
Amidst the milling crowd popping canapes around Loro Piana’s static and featureless mannequins, this presentation contained a jewel. Two gloved custodians stood by a table on which rested this fabric-founded house’s first-ever sample book, from the spring/summer 1926 season. A double breasted suit in the atrium of Loro Piana’s presentation space (just next to the Corriere Della Sera office) had been crafted from a new remix of the house’s very first run, a subtly-striped charcoal wool.Alongside that book was this season’s equivalent, the star swatch of which looked like the kaleidoscopically color-accented dotty Donegal whose wool base had been delicately seasoned with polyamide to give it the lightness and durability today’s LP customers rightly expect. As ever, the house’s design teams leant into multiple categories of classicism to shape a collection dedicated to showcasing the quality of its ingredients. Silk cashmere brocades, buttons, and hat pins were all patterned with the thistle flower that both represents the house and which is central to its processing of some of the world’s finest cashmeres.In menswear a wonderful stash pocket work jacket in cashmere-denim was placed upon its mannequin over a cashmere roll-neck and black cashmere pants. I loved that Donegal in a shirt under a quilt-lined dark wool “fur” jacket; my Runway colleague loved the same fabric used in its womenswear cousin. There was no shortage of soft shouldered cashmere, wool, or vicuna blazers and jackets worn under knitwear both fine and chunky, but always soft. Tucked away in an ante-room was a collection of handsome ski and snow wear to which had been applied Loro Piana’s many weather-repelling systems.In womenswear pill box hats topped stately, eminently polite mid-century skirt and jacket ensembles. There were some beautiful tuxedo-based evening looks with delicately applied thistle embroidery details. Italy holds the presidency of the G7 this year, and you could easily see heads of state from every nation keen to showcase this Loro Piana offer as a nod to the summit of global fabric craft and manufacture.
26 February 2024
There was plenty of hustle and energy in a room whose walls were framed and screened in a serene Japanese style meant to reflect that of this Loro Piana collection. A dense crowd of buyers, editors and Loro Piana representatives schmoozily parlayed around a series of wooden-armed, tweedy-headed mannequins upon which this season’s proposals were placed.Without movement to animate it, the collection remained a handsome still life to contemplate. A belted, high necked shirt suit for women in gray-flecked tweed was topped with a wide-brimmed woven hat. A striped-neutrals silk-linen shirt dress with a high unturned collar featured an attractive leather fastening to fix and drape the skirt up and across the body. A four-buttoned collarless jacket in an off-white nubbly silky fabric above a pleated pale skirt and light green polo neck looked snug and chic. The sleeves of a wide-armed, navy, petal-paneled silk overcoat were turned up to reveal the multicolored stitch work inside. A skirt and blouse in orange and blue florals was adjacent to last season's “flower ceremony” dress.The menswear featured fewer stylistically Japanese (to foreign eyes) details. There were more collarless jackets, in fabrics including the house’s beautiful cashmere denim blend. A suede field jacket was placed over a cotton safari shirt over a ribbed half-zip in a director’s cut of neutral tonal dressing. There were long collarless cashmere overcoats and boss level double breasted suits. The presentation also sought to emphasize a new bag named the Loom and a newly formulated silk and denim mix. Featured on the company’s Instagram feed a few days earlier but hidden somewhere in the crowd was a cool new German army sneaker variation with a white welt and gum sole.Spotting Giulia Rossetti dashing outside across Via Sacchi, a dynamo dressed top-to-toe in last season’s Loro Piana, confirmed the impression: all this collection’s exquisite clothes lacked was people to inhabit them and bring them to life.
24 September 2023
There was plenty of hustle and energy in a room whose walls were framed and screened in a serene Japanese style meant to reflect that of this Loro Piana collection. A dense crowd of buyers, editors and Loro Piana representatives schmoozily parlayed around a series of wooden-armed, tweedy-headed mannequins upon which this season’s proposals were placed.Without movement to animate it, the collection remained a handsome still life to contemplate. A belted, high necked shirt suit for women in gray-flecked tweed was topped with a wide-brimmed woven hat. A striped-neutrals silk-linen shirt dress with a high unturned collar featured an attractive leather fastening to fix and drape the skirt up and across the body. A four-buttoned collarless jacket in an off-white nubbly silky fabric above a pleated pale skirt and light green polo neck looked snug and chic. The sleeves of a wide-armed, navy, petal-paneled silk overcoat were turned up to reveal the multicolored stitch work inside. A skirt and blouse in orange and blue florals was adjacent to last season's “flower ceremony” dress.The menswear featured fewer stylistically Japanese (to foreign eyes) details. There were more collarless jackets, in fabrics including the house’s beautiful cashmere denim blend. A suede field jacket was placed over a cotton safari shirt over a ribbed half-zip in a director’s cut of neutral tonal dressing. There were long collarless cashmere overcoats and boss level double breasted suits. The presentation also sought to emphasize a new bag named the Loom and a newly formulated silk and denim mix. Featured on the company’s Instagram feed a few days earlier but hidden somewhere in the crowd was a cool new German army sneaker variation with a white welt and gum sole.Spotting Giulia Rossetti dashing outside across Via Sacchi, a dynamo dressed top-to-toe in last season’s Loro Piana, confirmed the impression: all this collection’s exquisite clothes lacked was people to inhabit them and bring them to life.
24 September 2023
Loro Piana is amongst the apex brands of Italian fabrication; its wool, cashmere, vicuna, and camel are reference point materials across the luxury industry in Italy and beyond. Added to that, innovative and functional treatments like its Storm System weatherproofing are widely incorporated by other houses into their designs: I cherish my K-way remix of a traditional Milanese loden executed in Storm System materials.Yet while Loro Piana is highly recognizable to the touch, its visual identity is less defined. That’s why under recently-ish appointed CEO Damien Bertrand, the house is working to make its products look as distinct as they feel. Although you’ll have to skip between the menswear lookbook and the womenswear lookbook to take it in on Runway, in the showroom space the evidence of this initiative was clear. This was the first time menswear and womenswear were shown simultaneously since LVMH acquired the house from its family founders a decade ago, and you could see that both design teams had consulted on color palette, fabrication, and silhouette in order to craft a more coherent offer.The respective design team leaders, who fly below the line according to company policy, offered that their shared inspirations this season were the tributary countries from which LP’s often vertically integrated supply chain begins. These are Peru, Bolivia and Argentina (for vicuna) , New Zealand and Australia (for wool) and Mongolia (for cashmere). These inspirations were gently applied in pattern and tone to two collections that worked hard to get along: adapted outerwear pieces from Loro’s more traditionally mannish canon were adapted for womenswear, while the pleated, fuller pants shape that the women’s team majored on was reflected in multiple menswear looks. The collections countered each other nicely, and looked good.Sensation wise, however, it was hard to compete with the bales of unspun cashmere that were on offer—and available to touch—in an upstairs room: to this skin, the feeling of it was almost semi-tangibly gentle, like touching something that was neither gas, liquid nor solid. Loro Piana is an inherently discreet brand that is traditionally more progressive in its technical development than its expression. This collection pointed to the shaping of a more coherent voice with which to declare its excellence.
24 February 2023
Loro Piana is amongst the apex brands of Italian fabrication; its wool, cashmere, vicuna, and camel are reference point materials across the luxury industry in Italy and beyond. Added to that, innovative and functional treatments like its Storm System weatherproofing are widely incorporated by other houses into their designs: I cherish my K-way remix of a traditional Milanese loden executed in Storm System materials.Yet while Loro Piana is highly recognizable to the touch, its visual identity is less defined. That’s why under recently-ish appointed CEO Damien Bertrand, the house is working to make its products look as distinct as they feel. Although you’ll have to skip between the menswear lookbook and the womenswear lookbook to take it in on Runway, in the showroom space the evidence of this initiative was clear. This was the first time menswear and womenswear were shown simultaneously since LVMH acquired the house from its family founders a decade ago, and you could see that both design teams had consulted on color palette, fabrication, and silhouette in order to craft a more coherent offer.The respective design team leaders, who fly below the line according to company policy, offered that their shared inspirations this season were the tributary countries from which LP’s often vertically integrated supply chain begins. These are Peru, Bolivia and Argentina (for vicuna) , New Zealand and Australia (for wool) and Mongolia (for cashmere). These inspirations were gently applied in pattern and tone to two collections that worked hard to get along: adapted outerwear pieces from Loro’s more traditionally mannish canon were adapted for womenswear, while the pleated, fuller pants shape that the women’s team majored on was reflected in multiple menswear looks. The collections countered each other nicely, and looked good.Sensation wise, however, it was hard to compete with the bales of unspun cashmere that were on offer—and available to touch—in an upstairs room: to this skin, the feeling of it was almost semi-tangibly gentle, like touching something that was neither gas, liquid nor solid. Loro Piana is an inherently discreet brand that is traditionally more progressive in its technical development than its expression. This collection pointed to the shaping of a more coherent voice with which to declare its excellence.
24 February 2023
Loro Piana is a fashion-insider favorite because it exists outside of fashion, its silhouettes unchanging despite shifts in trends and its materials made at the highest levels. Understated luxury has always beenthestory. But as the company makes efforts to grow, it’s adopting some of the industry’s ways. The spring 2023 collection was designed around the theme of an Italian grand tour, beginning in Piedmont and making stops in Tuscany and Portofino, before ending up in the Aeolian Islands, with clothes designed for each destination.Piedmont, Loro Piana’s home base, yielded cold-weather outerwear: a shearling bomber; a bouclé camel hair and silk poncho; an alpaca wool coat with a subtle stripe; and a mohair, cashmere, and technical fabric coat whose weightlessness has to be felt to be believed. As the tour progressed south with the season, the clothes became more summery. A navy and yellow anorak and a shirt with rope embroidery spelling out the house logo both said “seaside,” and linen dresses like a loosely belted smock and a striped linen and cotton caftan were direct tickets to August holidays in the country. A sorbet-striped caftan in silk was a bit loud by Loro Piana standards.Handbags are a main focus for the company. The large bale bag in a warm brown leather with white topstitching and a bucket in striped woven cotton with leather trim are two worthy investments. Loro Piana already stands apart from the sex and flash on the Milan runways, but to this insider’s eye, the best of the collection were the house icons, the unchanging “winter voyager” and “horsey short” jacket, both in cashmere; the cotton and linen “traveler”; and a bomber in water-repellant microfiber. No theme, no concept, and just great.
24 September 2022
The thought of stuffing back into jeans would be horrifying to many after a year of understated dressing, but Loro Piana’s cashmere-cotton jeans can certainly help ease the transition. Made from a nearly 50-50 split of the materials, the loose trousers and coordinating field jacket are roomy, soft as a lamb, and very warm. As close to sweatpants as denim could get.That kind of secret luxury and obvious comfort is where Loro Piana shines. Take a double satin camisole, nothing much at first, that is trimmed in ribbed cashmere. Or a giant shearling jacket, reversible, made extra fluffy on one side and with buttery leather on the opposite. A new cashmere-alpaca blend has been cut into unlined suiting that feels more like a sweater than a blazer.Stealth wealth as it may seem, there’s a fashion proposition here too. Inspired, says womenswear design director Alessandra Varianini, by the idea of a female explorer, Loro Piana has foregone obvious prettiness for something more rugged. Will its wealthy customers adapt to a something slightly grittier—very, very slightly—after last season’s tropical florals and wafting fabrics? If anything can convince them, leather rain boots with a cashmere throat or a reversible waterproof bomber with a cashmere lining should do it. Perfect garden attire, whether your hands or in the dirt or holding a glass of wine as you take in the well-planted blooms.
24 February 2022
Loro Piana is the only European fashion company to spin fabric from lotus plants (it takes 6,500 stems to make enough fabric for a jacket). This was probably the factoid hat madeThe White Lotusflourish into the mental foreground while riffing through this collection this morning. Digitally-marooned Fred and his bite-crotch boxers apart, you could envisage most of the horrible guests in that beautiful place wafting malevolently from breakfast-buffet to beach attired in many of these rich and finely-made garments. And naturally they would also suit sybarites with less compromised moral CVs.Without going through the rigmarole of pitching characters to particular looks, the sunflower-to-clay shades of a vertically striped, sleeveless silk cashmere intarsia dress, simply cut but sumptuously presented, was a strong contender for suite upgrade status. Similarly the wide-weave, more vibrantly striped fringe-hemmed dress, this in cotton/silk; a gorgeously tactile cashmere silk djellaba dress in off-white; a quite white lotus-y on blue floral silk dress with a tuxedo-pleat front; and a long rib knit skirt in a gorgeous kelpy green.The accessories included suede piped sports sandals and more traditionally soled tanned leather options, as well as the heavily emphasized Sesia bag, which was introduced only this February and worked nicely in a contrasting canvas and leather fabrication here. A brace of wooden toggled rattan wash bag pouches were simple, beautiful items ideal for stashing whatever you need to get you through the day on your sun lounger.Other less vacation-y pieces included handsome outerwear in cavalry twill and, of course cashmere, as well as a heritage-nodding reissue of the pragmatically named Horsey jacket, with which Loro Piana outfitted the Italian equestrian team for the 1992 Barcelona Olympics. Trotting out onto Via Montenapoleone, the conclusion was that womenswear design director Alessandra Varianini and CEO Fabio d’Angelantonio are doing a five star job steering this thoroughbred Italian house.
22 September 2021