Whyred (Q4754)
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| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Whyred |
No description defined |
Statements
2014
creative director
Whyred is a mid-priced brand devoted to “art, music, and tailoring,” designed by Roland Hjort (women’s) and Jonas Bladmo (men’s). Both are devoted audiophiles whose show notes this season offered an overcomplicated explanation of their inspiration; backstage Bladmo got straight to the point with a clearer statement: “[Paul] McCartney, Lord Byron, Seinfeld—a lot of different shit going on,” was his useful summation of a collection that included great looking pantsuits with ’70s-style deep cuffed flares, high-waisted jeans, and ascots.Outerwear is the brand’s strength and for Fall 2018 there were lots of sharp-looking takes on classic silhouettes, from dress coats to fish-tail parkas. The standout piece was an eye-catching “psychedelic” paisley-print puffer, which was a playful and chic update of a wardrobe staple. Texture was important too; some soft-to-the-touch fabrics like corduroy and velvet were unexpectedly printed with a painterly floral. Bold patterns, suggested Hjort post-show, allow “you to get your own personal kind of look, [which is] really important.”Vive la différence.
23 January 2018
Whyred closed Stockholm Fashion Week for Fall and opened it for Spring, the season of new beginnings. Fittingly, creative director Roland Hjort took the collection in a new direction. Set to a fast-paced disco-techno soundtrack, the show was an explosion of color from head to foot. With their bouncy Medusa-like curls, the female models wore brilliant slashes of eye shadow—a look borrowed from Rainer Fassbinder’s famously dark movieThe Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant—which complemented the overall palette of pretty pastels that recalled the Miami of the 1980s. Puffed shoulders and leather jackets also seemed to nod to the era of excess. The collection, Hjort explained post show, was “all about expression, so I wanted to really play around with colors.”The big change here, for Whyred diehards, was that there was not a single reference to the designer’s oft-referenced grandfather, the painter Sven “X:et” Leonard Erixson. Instead, for Spring 2018, Hjort created his own collages that were turned into prints. (The originals are now on view at Riche’s trendy Lilla Baren.) Also getting a rethink was the silhouette. Of note were five-pocket jeans and pants with high waists and dropped crotches. Though they were originally created for the women’s collection, designer Jonas Bladmo adapted them for the menswear lineup as well. Suiting was an important story at Whyred, too, and one that not only plays to Hjort’s training as a tailor, but also speaks to the what the Scandi street style crowd is wearing.
30 August 2017
“I wanted to make an army of hope,” said Whyred’s Roland Hjort after presenting the brand’s women’s and men’s Fall collections in an old estate in the outskirts of the city. Hjort’s mother, who is an actress, readAniara, a science fiction poem written by Nobel Prize–winner Harry Martinson in 1956, as the models stomped by. The inspiration was otherworldly. But the clothes were of the moment and fit within the galaxy of trends seen both on and off the runway throughout Fashion Week Stockholm.Hjort and the brand’s menswear designer Jonas Bladmo are adept at taking trends set elsewhere, such as the over-corset first seen at Prada, and making them part of the Whyred universe. The art references are usually pulled from the oeuvre of Hjort’s grandfather, the painter Sven “X:et” Leonard Erixson. And this season the patches and prints were inspired by the artist’s sets for the Royal Opera in Sweden’s 1959 adaptation ofAniara. A three-piece pantsuit and a fur-trimmed coat had real star quality.
2 February 2017
In musical terms, Roland Hjort’s Spring collection might best be described as jazzy. Titled Bricolage, it featured layering and many collaged elements, like pleated panels on coatdresses and feather-trimmed patches. The latter were inspired by the paintings Sven Erixson, the designer’s grandfather. Hjort also referenced David Hockney in prints that added a bit of tropicalia to his mix. His outer corsets paid homage to those seen at Prada for Fall. One of the standout and most grown-up pieces in the collection was a full-legged, three-piece pant. Also of note were Hjort’s riffs on parkas, some short-sleeved, others featuring fishtail hems. Giving them extra impact was the fact that they were worn by veteranSwedish model Erika Wall, walking for the first time in Stockholm since the birth of her second daughter, Sigrid.Jonas Bladmo, the brand’s menswear designer, created a collection on the same theme of bricolage. While the Hockney prints carried over from the women’s to men’s collections, Bladmo combined them with leopard prints and studs. The result was a Stockholm city dweller’s dream of a punk rock surfer, and it was shown on long-haired blonde models to the live accompaniment of the Moon City Boys, an all-girl band, and Luciano Leiva.
30 August 2016
Founded in Stockholm in 2001 as a minimal menswear line,Whyredexpanded into womenswear a year later. The women’s collection is designed by company cofounder Roland Hjort.London’s ’80s indie music scene informed Hjort’s Fall 2016 collection, a mash-up of mod, punk, and menswear.
1 February 2016
Founder: Roland HjortYear established: 1999Known for: Coats and jackets, more specifically parkas, and clear influences by arts and musicWorn by: Madonna, The Hives, Oasis, and Haim
24 August 2015
Founder: Roland HjortYear established: 1999Known for: Classic pieces translated with clean lines and spruce tailoring, to a decidedly 21st-century effectStocked at: Online and various retailers worldwide, including Whyred's Stockholm flagship
26 January 2015
We're posting runway pictures from Stockholm Fashion Week for the first time. See the full list of designers here. To read our daily reports on the collections, visit our Style File blog. And don't miss our street-style coverage.
28 January 2013