Ivan Grundahl (Q4810)

The new creative director of Danish label Ivan Grundhal put on a moody, broody show. Roy Krejberg, a former designer at Kenzo, sent models onto the runway wearing antlers, animal skulls, and black leather cat ear hats on their heads as fog billowed out from behind the stage. The clothes stayed true to the Ivan Grundahl DNA with sculptural tailoring and lots of heavy layers.But where the original pieces once designed by Grundahl himself were a bit softer and more feminine, Krejberg has injected a modern, avant-garde edge into the brand. This was especially true in looks like the black jacket with white seams worn with a trouser embellished with belt ties hanging at the sides and dragging along the ground. There was also a black crushed-velvet gown that was beautifully ruched at the hip and had a neckline that extended up past the chin to hide the face. Though the collection felt somber, it seems like the 30-year-old brand has a bright future ahead.