Jil Sander Navy (Q4818)
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Jil Sander Navy is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Jil Sander Navy |
Jil Sander Navy is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
This season, the inspiration for the Jil Sander Navy collection seemed a bit lofty. A sentence in the press release included the line “tells the story of a young Parisienne traveling to Venice during the Baroque era.” But the label isn’t about 17th-century flashiness or French tropes. Highlighting the larger-than-life era of grandeur came down to silhouettes with X-Acto knife precision: Dress skirts were expansive but structured, and trousers were wide with sharp front pleats. But the idea of breadth didn’t translate only through shape: A red shirtdress’s skirt cleverly had red and white blotted prints sliced in between a few of the pleats, making the piece seemingly expand.The most impressive parts of the collection were the military touches, like the army combat uniform-style shoulder pockets. Tacked onto a windowpane check gray coat and a zip-up retro polo shirt, the pocket detail added that polished tomboy tailoring the label is so well known for. A long rigger’s belt was attached to the waist of a navy blue jacket and when fastened, it created a clean but pretty hourglass silhouette around the body.Necklines stood out this season and were more revealing than usual. A cropped camel jacket with two lone double-breasted buttons and a black dress with puffed sleeves had the collars widely opened so it seemed as if they balanced low on the shoulders. It was the tomboy’s version of sex appeal.There were some pieces that seemed a bit out of place. A jacket covered in a paint-speckled print seemed too busy for the label’s pared-back, menswear-minded customer. Still, a hot pink bomber was a wild card head-turner. The structure was unfussy and the hue was jolting, a combination that made an unexpected but welcome impact.
14 February 2017
Jil Sander Navyis known for its accessible, skillful tailoring. There’s typically a cheerful kind of boardroom appeal that comes with the brand’s linear silhouettes and tomboyish pieces. The inspirations behind each collection—such as the no-frills patterns of Pop Art—also seem suited to fashionable, serious-minded executives. But this season the design team wanted to home in on a lighter feel, citing the French aristocracy as his jumping-off point.The result was a bit jauntier, thanks to pretty pieces like the medallion-print skirts, but the expert cuts were still present. Take the brand’s insouciant, Left Bank version of the classic button-up. It tied at the waist like a robe, flaring out for a deliberate, silhouette-whittling effect. A white A-line dress with a boatneck had an ever-so-slightly curved empire-waist seam cutting across the body for an extra dose of figure-flattering polish.That same sort of attention to tailoring was applied to the sportier pieces. A blazer, a signature item for the label, was nipped at the waist with elastic drawstrings for an athletic jolt. Even the ubiquitous hoodie was artfully elevated with details like adjustable cuffs and sharp pleating that started at the shoulders.The shoes were standouts. Some were made to resemble a French bistro chair. The vamps and counters of sandals were reminiscent of the colorful checkerboard patterns of a rattan seat, while the painted wooden heels mimicked a chair’s bamboo legs. The result was fun but smart—two touchstone qualities of the label itself.
13 September 2016
When a closet needs to be restocked with back-to-basics pieces,Jil Sander Navyis a good jumping-off point. This season, the collection was rife with no-frills, cozy staples that one could imagine wrapping up in, whether for lazing at home or heading to work. A huge gray turtleneck was styled with a knit cream dress that had its sleeves fastened at the waist, transforming it into a DIY skirt. The label’s minimalist version of a Canadian tuxedo, a dark-wash A-line denim skirt thrown over a pair of matching pleated denim pants, should have been bulky but was so well tailored that the duo fit perfectly together. Layering was also applied to the outerwear, as seen in a cropped wool jacket with a fur collar, which was worn on top of a long, thin quilted coat. The combination played nicely with shapes as well as different fabrics.The meticulous attention to detail also had a hand in varying the proportions of pieces. A top was cinched at the waist, allowing two rounded pockets on a pared-back peplum to jut out, creating the look of a curve-skimming volume. Tiny adjustments, like the cuff straps on a pair of cropped trousers or the clever asymmetrical buttoned slit on a cardigan-skirt, added elements of elevation.There was also the fresh idea of casual suiting that involved several small but important alterations and layering techniques. A mannish jacket was paired with fantastic slouchy slate gray trousers that were just long enough to bunch at the bottom of the foot, diffusing the sharpness of the uptight middle pleat. The whole look was topped off with a long gray cardigan that peeked through the jacket’s sleeves and hit the thigh. Cool girls should take note: This is the most effortless way to wear a suit for Fall.
16 February 2016
It’s no secret thatJil Sander Navyknows its way around a clean pattern. But this season the label’s variations on layering added a kick of cool to what could otherwise have been a buy-it-anywhere basic. Silhouettes were enhanced by skirts and shirts with peplums (not the teeny-bopping, out-to-brunch kind, but rather, smarter—with texture) that mushroomed out from under button-ups to create volume and a cinched waist. There were also puffed ruffles, which made for a pepped-up take on sleeves, and pointed hems on skirts that resembled a man’s waistcoat.References to Henri Matisse’s cutouts came in jagged floral patterns that covered shirt and tank dresses in blue and white, as well as in hot pink and citrus orange. In a nod to Piet Mondrian, a perforated shirt and tank dress were tiered into green, yellow, and blue primary colors—a well-suited complement to the classic linear silhouettes. But it was the riff on athleticwear that turned basics into must-haves: Dresses were reminiscent of deconstructed parkas, fastened with horizontal elastic cording that cleverly created curves. A white skirt in the same outerwear style had a strip of fabric that acted like a belt, creating an unfinished empire waist that elegantly tufted out above the hips—a piece that could easily become a closet staple or a street style standout.
14 September 2015
For the team at Jil Sander Navy, Fall was very much about the late '60s, an era many are sucking the marrow from this season. And who can blame them? There's something perennially appealing about the mod-schoolgirl look, rendered here in a navy inverted-pleat skirt that was blocked with burgundy diagonal stripes, a wool camel trench with a sharp leather collar, and a belted white jacket paired with a matching A-line skirt and modified go-go boots.But many of these styles can easily be stamped out with a cookie cutter. Consider the prints: The chevron silk jacquard and the metallic floral brocade were a little too generic to please. Things were better when there was a sporty, tomboyish element brought in, such as a detachable nylon hood snapped onto everything from a quilted dress to a classic blazer. The wide-cuff Bermuda shorts—which echoed the silhouette that defined main-collection designer Rodolfo Paglialunga'sSpring debut—were also good.Just four years old, Jil Sander Navy is still relatively new and has yet to really define itself apart from the main collection, which has undergone several transformations during that time, as well. The last couple of seasons, the team has worked to make the diffusion line more youthful and playful. Fall's alligator motif, inspired by Chinese shadow puppetry and shown on a cute sweatshirt and as a leather trinket, emphasized that. It could even become a must-have, which is an encouraging sign.
17 February 2015
Jil Sander, no matter who's designing it, is very much about shirting. For Resort, the team at Jil Sander Navy, the house's secondary collection, decided to elongate the boyfriend shirt and use it as a layering piece under skirts, dresses, and coats. (Each of these knee-length shirts could also easily be worn alone.) The technique created depth, especially when a long button-up shirt in the season's abstract floral was tucked into a cotton front-pocket skirt in the same print, or a white apron top peeked out of the bottom of a black tank dress with an asymmetrical hem.There was a focus on the waist, too, with wide belts cinching together otherwise straight silhouettes. The confident color palette of red, blue, and green was offset by just a few prints, as well as a black, blue, and shocking red mobile pattern on a pair of boyish pleated shorts and a matching button-up. The knitwear, too, played with Calder-esque ideas: A green skirt with a rounded hem was paired with a white sweater in a green, red, and black intarsia print.The plan for this collection was that it would feel just a bit more youthful than past efforts. The team accomplished that without sacrificing the go-to pieces that many customers might consider staples, such as the navy blazers and cotton overcoats. All in all, there was something very satisfying about what was presented.
9 June 2014
Many an editor would probably be happy to slip on a pair of the black suede flatform zip-up ankle boots sitting on a podium at today's Jil Sander Navy presentation. Clodhoppers, yes, but they looked polished, modern, and comfortably chic, as did much of the collection on display. In the past, Navy has commonly combined sportswear and traditional tailoring in single pieces. This season, the design team generally broke up those concepts, sending out mix-and-match separates that mostly highlighted one feature or the other. (A tuxedo-style Bermuda short hiding beneath a royal purple coat was an anomaly.)At the more tailored end were jacquard dresses and skirts with diagonal pleats that gave them modernity and movement. There was more pattern than one expects from Navy, by way of blown-up houndstooth jacquard dresses and painterly checked pants in silk and velvety fine-wale corduroy. Those pieces got some graphic pop shown with little hooded zip-up jackets in felt-bonded neoprene. A rich orange version, its bracelet sleeves curved a little like a wetsuit's, recalled Nicolas Ghesquière's surfy-scuba days at Balenciaga. Those performance fabric pieces—there was a smooth-surfaced techno fleece sweatshirt in the same color—are likely winners, especially with Alexander Wang setting the tone for seriously sporty outerwear. But for such a tight collection, there was a little something for everyone. A classic coat in brushed black mohair had a beautifully furry texture and would look great with those suede booties.
11 February 2014
Jil Sander is likely the last designer you would picture employing a Hawaiian print, but there it was for Spring at Jil Sander Navy. But don't break out the leis just yet: In appropriately understated fashion, the print was merely a suggestion of the tropical motif—it wasn't until you got up close that the flowers emerged. There was an undercover sportiness afoot, too. A collarless, bracelet-sleeve jacket and matching tee were surprisingly techy to the touch. From a distance, the fabric looked like a rich knit. The other side of sport is prep, and there was a chic collegiate appeal to a sweet pink bomber jacket. It looked great with a pale yellow knit and a high-waisted powder blue skirt that A-lined to mid-calf. The same knit top graduated to perfect workwear when paired with an expertly cut cobalt blazer and crisp pleated pants. That versatility is a sign of how this collection is designed: as a complete wardrobe that can shift and adjust from season to season and climate to climate—maybe even in Hawaii.
9 September 2013
While vintage-inspired shirtdresses have reigned over the past several Jil Sander Navy collections, Fall offered a more complete range of silhouettes and separates that had a slight masculine tenor. Compared to the feminine frocks from recent seasons, the tailored pantsuits here had austerity that hewed closer to the house's clean aesthetic (perhaps that was the design studio's nod to the fact that Jil Sander herself has returned to the helm of her main line). Tapered trousers that sat low on the hips featured tucked pleats that elongated the legs, while sharp wool jackets were cropped and boxy with raw edges. Subtle details like those unfinished, raw edges are effectively what differentiate Navy from collection. Leather was introduced for the first time here in the form of double-breasted shearling toppers, folded miniskirts, and slim leggings, which gave the lineup a tough edge that was previously lacking. Still, Navy didn't completely lose touch with its former softer side. A-line skirts were carried over and took on more of a geometric look when paired with crisp button-ups or neat gabardine capes.
10 February 2013
Crisp shirtdresses get a lot of play over at Jil Sander Navy, and for Spring, the line's signature piece subtly nods to mid-century recreation wear. Sporty box-pleated numbers in a palette of "barely whites" recalled classic tennis costumes, particularly when styled with visor headbands and high wedge sneakers, as seen in the lookbook. Echoing past seasons, there was an emphasis on structured volume here, created with fabrics that hold a shape, including silk organza, duchesse satin, and sturdy cotton piqué. Away-from-the-body full skirts featuring graphic laser-cut and embroidery details were balanced out with slim-fitting button-downs. Sixties-inspired car coats came in a slightly padded neoprene mesh, which nicely illustrated the Jil Sander Navy focus on mixing tradition with technology.
9 September 2012
The sporty couture look we've been seeing the past three seasons at Jil Sander has been passed down to the brand's more affordable Navy line for Fall. Crisp shirtdresses came in numerous incarnations of hammered satin, bright plaid taffeta, or jacquard with an Arabian nights print, and were decorated with graphic embroidered collars or grosgrain bow belts. For every beautiful dress, there was a sharply engineered coat to go with it. Noteworthy in particular were the astrakhan wool versions with detachable mink collars and hook-and-eye closures, and the après-ski cropped puffers, which nicely juxtaposed with the pervasive midcentury femininity here. Accessories like the geometric cube backpacks and chunky rocker platforms added another shot of modern minimalism for an overall impact that was vintage-flavored yet still thoroughly twenty-first century.
7 February 2012
Jil Sander Navy is living by the girl scout law for Spring. The lower-priced Sander line (which still sells alongside labels like Stella McCartney at department stores) combined a scout's innocence and curiosity (sorry, no Thin Mints included) with characteristic clean lines and techy fabrics for a modern approach to uniform dressing. To-the-knee bermuda shorts styled with a sleeveless blouse and grosgrain necktie were taken straight from the scout's handbook. As were the new label's new line of bijoux, which featured silver bracelets with enamel charms reminiscent of merit badges. The most successful looks interpreted the theme a bit more loosely. Standouts included a metallic eelskin A-line skirt that was paired with a shrunken military blazer, and a raw-edged silk day dress in a colorful chevron origami pattern with a forest green flak jacket tossed over it. The JS Navy customer is similar to the Jil Sander one, but she's dressing for a comparatively relaxed moment in her week.
10 September 2011