John Richmond (Q4847)

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John Richmond is a fashion house from FMD.
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English
John Richmond
John Richmond is a fashion house from FMD.

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    City and country were two of John Richmond's references for Fall. But the rock-loving Richmond put his spin on country classics like barn jackets and equestrian boots, as well as city staples from jeans to leather jackets (here with contrasting sleeves). As for the glitter-encrusted tuxes that closed the show—sans shirt, no less—it was hard to imagine any terrain, even one so forgiving as a runway, that would ever be quite ready for them.
    15 January 2012
    John Richmond may be little known in the U.S., but his brand of rock 'n' roll-inflected sportswear has a sizable presence in Europe. His aesthetic has taken on a lot more Milanese flash than it had in the eighties, when he was based in London and designed as part of a team with Maria Cornejo. Today, in a show he dubbed a "couture reggae party," he used prints based on Japanese tattoos to liven up tees and knits, and he laser-cut intricate patterns into a black leather shirt and sand-colored jackets. The enjoyable soundtrack mash-up included a burst of Althea & Donna's cult reggae classic "Uptown Top Ranking." You can forgive a man a lot for that, though not, perhaps, the perforated fuchsia loafers.
    English-born designerJohn Richmondhas, like America's own John Varvatos, often designed with music in mind. But his latest collection, inspired in part by the Manchester post-punk scene of the early eighties, felt a step off the beat. Austerity versus luxury for "the modern machine age," the notes had it: That amounted to baggy, boot-cut pants, shiny suiting, and cutout leathers, many accessorized with sparkling rhinestones, velvet, and—in line with a curious number of designers this week—dense patches of fur. There was more of a nineties brashness than an eighties edge, but either way, there wasn't much that was fresh; a fair bit was downright tacky. Joy Division and Iggy Pop ("Nightclubbing") banged on the soundtrack, but the best things here were the ones that felt farthest from the club. The handful of hooded, fur-lined parkas, for instance—the sort that are quickly beginning to emerge as a Fall '11 staple.
    16 January 2011