Katayone Adeli (Q4898)

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Katayone Adeli is a fashion house from FMD.
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Katayone Adeli
Katayone Adeli is a fashion house from FMD.

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    Katayone Adeli’s brief, unadorned presentation bore witness to her conviction that a few well-expressed ideas make a stronger impact than a cacophony of half-baked gimmicks.Retro currents run through every season, and this fall the attention seems to be on the late '50s and early '60s. Adeli demonstrated her respect for the past with slouchy sack jackets, tunic tops, blouson minis and perfectly fitted dresses that recalled masters of elegance like Cristobal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy. She used appropriately ladylike fabrics—silk faille, satin, lightweight wool, brocade and chiffon—in a restricted palette made up mostly of black, navy and charcoal, but sparked with the occasional burst of color (a coral brocade coat, for example, or a green chiffon and gold lamé mini).Demure though her inspirations might be, Adeli has a rock 'n' roll side, too. It came out in the ruffly, torn edges on chiffon tops and dresses, super-skinny pants under jackets, and a great new version of the old reliable black leather coat, made regal with an elaborately pinched and sewn collar.
    8 February 2003
    Katayone Adeli's intimate presentations, staged in her NoLIta store, are the perfect showcase for the designer's gently hip designs. A fan of under- rather than overstatement, Adeli lets trends murmur their way through her collection, rather than being shouted from the rooftops.Her spring show suggested a country girl with glamorous ambitions. Adeli used tight jeans and snug overalls as a base layer over which she put delicate chiffon or jersey minidresses and tops. Her embellishments and styling referenced various decades: the '20s, the '70s (a flying eagle stretched across a white charmeuse top), the '80s (big "boyfriend" jackets over little dresses), but never glaringly so. Adeli also used a distinctive and eclectic palette: ivory, cobalt blue, canary yellow, black and tones of gray, along with the denim pieces. She may not be a verbose designer—the whole show was over in 14 looks—but Adeli's is a voice that carries.
    16 September 2002
    Unlike some of the designers she's often grouped with, Katayone Adeli doesn't attack the latest trends with a sledgehammer; she checks in with the current mood and then goes off and quietly puts her own idiosyncratic slant on it. That's what has made her a star to the hip young women who stock up on her ever-popular pants and ultra-feminine dresses.Adeli's Fall collection was true to form. The tiny, casual presentation she did at the last minute let editors see the clothes up close—all the better to admire the intricate passementerie on a fitted black wool jacket, the delicate smocking on a brown velvet top and the whimsy of a chunky, grandma-made-it sweater coat. While Adeli tends to think in terms of items rather than collections, she did work in a few tailored jackets that, paired with those low-slung trousers, would make a top-to-toe outfit for a major occasion. But this season's star is likely to be Adeli's take on that '70s classic, the army-green parka, which she sweetened with a sepia-toned wallpaper-print lining.
    13 February 2002
    Katayone Adeli knows her customer well: hip, downtown girls who appreciate the trends but would never dream of looking like overeager fashion victims.Adeli’s collection was focused and to the point. Black fringe tanks worn with super-skinny eyelet jeans are sure to turn up on customers’ most-wanted lists; ditto for the hand-tooled leather jackets and wide low-slung belts. Gunmetal silk jersey tops, frayed trousers and crepe dresses with sheer insets were all sexy and modern. When it looked like the collection could veer toward the predictable, Adeli wisely softened her street-tough silhouette with billowy, oversized tops, fringed cowgirl vests and casual batik skirts.Like other designers, Adeli touched upon the Victorian and peasant aesthetics that Balenciaga and Saint Laurent have made so popular this fall, but she managed to move beyond obvious references to create an identity of her own.
    9 September 2001
    For the last couple of years, Katayone Adeli has been quietly cultivating a devoted following of in-the-know girls who cherish her super-slim pants and trendy tops, so it was no surprise to find Christy Turlington and Famke Janssen avidly checking off looks on their programs as the show progressed.Adeli has successfully tapped into the need for clothes that retain an air of romantic sensuality but are imbued with a street-smart edge. In her hands, a train on an indigo-blue dress becomes a chic accessory that can be toyed with while sipping a martini, then pinned to the waist when it's time to face reality and fetch a taxi. Her leather jackets are paneled and sliced, creating an effect that's both tough and delicate; pencil skirts are ruched at the seams and paired with lacy shirts with turquoise sequin details half-hidden at the shoulder. Adeli is proving that she has some savvy tricks up her sleeve, reworking traditional notions of femininity into sexy, functional looks that are relevant to a young, urban generation of women.
    11 February 2001