Rossella Jardini (Q5617)
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Rossella Jardini is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Rossella Jardini |
Rossella Jardini is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
At today’s presentation in a Milanese art gallery, Rossella Jardini was dressed in a military jumpsuit; it could’ve been easily mistaken for an army surplus find if it weren’t for the designer’s signature über-chic accessorizing: strings of real pearls galore, antique gold chains by the pound, and a vintage Hermès foulard. A pair of oversize prescription glasses made it look pretty fabulous; styling really is everything.For her Fall collection, called Metamorphosis, Jardini had fun working at repurposing her beloved classic wardrobe staples: a military jacket, a white shirt, a field jacket, and a cotton trench. She did it her way, generously adding eccentric decorative touches, transforming every piece into a quirky customized item. Pearl buttons, mink patches, golden tassels, lace collars, eyelet ribbons, passementerie; every possible inanimate form worthy of some sort of decorative purpose found its way into the collection. In an impetus of maximalism, Jardini didn’t restrain herself, indulging her playful side with abandon.The designer addressed the sustainability issue her way; she reused vintage decorations, salvaging them from waste, and gave a good face-lift to unassuming everyday pieces, morphing them into stylish specimens. You can call it sustainable chic.
24 February 2018
Rossella Jardini’s choices are always quite idiosyncratic; she strives for the unique and she doesn’t give a fig if people think she’s a snob. Whether she is painstakingly choosing the shape of a teaspoon for her kitchen, or finding the appropriate style combination to walk her dogs in the morning (no mean feat, knowing the magnitude of her museum-quality vintage wardrobe), everything Jardini does or chooses undergoes a scrupulous vetting. Standards are never high enough for this classy lady, whose sharp wit has been honed by years as the right hand of the late Franco Moschino—it must be said: To this day, fashion still misses his unparalleled genius with wording, which turned his shows into brilliant fashion charades.Jardini now flies solo, working on small, perfectly edited collections that are tailored to suit her lifestyle and her demanding taste (and the tastes of a coterie of sophisticated women like her). Knowing, as she does, fashion history by heart (“Franco Moschino used to call me his fashion encyclopedia,” she said), it’s easy to distill references from her favorite designers in her work (“The ones I like are all dead,” she explains), the late Yves Saint Laurent being by far the undisputed star of her fashion pantheon. Even if she didn’t mention him as a direct inspiration, his spirit always hovers around her collections. His penchant for superbly well-cut blouses could be traced in Jardini’s take on this feminine item par excellence, which she presented for Spring in many iterations. She had them transformed into fluid pleated shirtdresses with pussy bows; classic striped crisp poplin, a fabric associated with formal masculine shirting, was cut into A-line tops—worn with matching full skirts—or Marinières, another Jardini staple.A good print is always a favorite, especially if it exudes wit and a sense of humor; polka dots, hearts, and stars were printed on silk crepe for long-tiered dresses. Antonio Pippolini, an esteemed artist, reworked Jardini’s bespectacled features into “The Jardinette,” a delightful pattern that graced blouses and asymmetric dresses. Yet the most telling item (which spoke with outright panache about the designer’s attitude) was a white simple T-shirt that read: “I am the most elegant woman I know.” Indeed she is.
23 September 2017
“Tout ça change, mais tout est toujours la même chose” (everything changes, yet everything stays the same) wasRossella Jardini’s motto for her Pre-Fall collection. Jardini is a lady with a dramatic flair for luxe and sophistication; always dressed to the nines, she adheres to a strict code of elegance, which is mirrored in her collections. Her style has a timeless quality, peppered by just the right amount of witty eccentricity, lovingly fed by erudite references to the Fashion Designers (with capital letters) belonging to her fashion Hall of Fame, whose Genius in Chief is, of course, Yves Saint Laurent. Traces of his sublime elegance can be easily found in Jardini’s designs, and above all, in her substantial closet, which is replete with quite a lot of museum-worthy YSL pieces.“I was thinking of fashion in the late ’80s through the early ’90s,” she said. Style-wise, it was certainly a very fecund era, especially for Jardini, who at that time served as right hand to Franco Moschino, giving some of her polished sophistication to his exuberant, witty style. For Pre-Fall, she favored a certain severity of lines, a play on controlled volumes exuding a classic approach, heightened by the use of the finest fabrics, often borrowed from menswear. To emphasize her vision, she revolved around a neat palette of grays, whites, and blacks, only occasionally brightened by flashes of red and pink.The lineup focused on daywear; parkas, coats, and dresses were beautifully cut, with a romantic yet restrained undertone. Case in point was a slim, fitted coat in black wool, which the designer called “The Farewell Coat.” “I imagine a woman wearing it while standing on a railway platform, bidding adieu to her lover,” she explained, revealing a penchant for romance, which was confirmed by a few references to the movieBabette’s Feast—that film’s 19th-century severity and strictness of look could be traced in voluminous tiered dresses in English flannel or crisp taffeta. Contrasting graphic piping gave an assertive, modern touch to midi robe-manteaux or short boxy jackets with floral appliqués. Elsewhere, leopard-printed velvet parkas, bombers, or dresses had a sensual yet elegant flair, while Jardini’s signature tuxedos were rendered in red lamé with pink piping or in fluid white crepe. It all had a refined, grown-up look. Asked which women she’d like to dress, the designer suggested Vanessa Redgrave and Helen Mirren; both are women of substance, like herself.
19 January 2017
Rossella Jardini, part of the Milan establishment, is back in startup mode. The former creative director of Moschino launched an eponymous collection last February. Season two, shown at the Grand Hotel et de Milan today, was about sharpening the label's focus. Color, embellishment, and a flirtatious spirit are the hallmarks of the new line. But Spring, more so than her first collection for Fall, has a destination vibe. Chiffon dresses accented with needlepoint flowers, peasant tops and skirts bedecked with tassels, and ruffled off-the-shoulder silk frocks are the kinds of things women are packing for seaside vacations these days, then wearing back in town to hold onto that holiday feeling. What may distinguish Jardini's offering from those of others is its exuberance, a quality heightened by Viviana Volpicella's more-is-more accessorizing.Jardini name-checked Giorgio di Sant'Angelo as a reference point, and anybody who's been around long enough to remember his '70s glory days will see the through lines between his multicultural riffing and this gypsy chic offering. (If di Sant'Angelo is new to you, he's worth looking up). Jardini also mentioned another name backstage, lesser known outside of Rome. Fausto Delle Chiaie, an artist who exhibits on the street in that city, shared four sketches, which she turned into designs for the scarves the models wore in their hair and a ruffled silk dress. "Picasso half-price," she laughed. Delle Chiaie's work was another way she elevated the collection beyond familiar resortwear.
25 September 2016
Everything about Rossella Jardini exudes a faultless sense of style, polished to perfection throughout a long career in the fashion stratosphere. An old bourgeois Milanese palazzo is home to her flat, her design studio, and her showroom; it all comes accessorized with the divine scent of Shalimar. Jardini is always immaculately attired, even for walking her two Cavalier King Charles spaniels, always wearing divalike huge spectacles and piles of precious jewelry. Dressing down is never an option for the designer. Yet more than 10 years as Franco Moschino’s right-hand woman infused her penchant for classy dressing with an irrepressible wit and irreverence. It’s an eclectic mix that defines the unique allure she’s pouring full-on into her newborn line, launched last year after various twists and turns following her departure fromMoschinoin 2013.For her first Resort collection, Jardini indulged in some masculine-feminine play. “I love uniforms,” she said. Her wardrobe staples were seamlessly translated into the lineup: crisp white shirts, well-cut trenchcoats, impeccably tailored pantsuits. “I have mine made to measure by Caraceni,” Jardini said with fabulous nonchalance, as if having the greatest bespoke tailor at your service (he personally catered to Gianni Agnelli, just to drop one name) were the only possible choice. Yet Jardini’s intensely feminine flair and sense of balance gave the collection a fresh touch. Masculine shirts came in gingham with inventive pleated constructions; trenches in fluid cady were graced with sensual drapings for a fluid evening look; and grosgrain ribbons were stitched on tulle and transformed into swinging circle skirts. A dash of florals, a hint of crochet, a few flounces, and modern photographic trompe l’oeil prints added a romantic twist. It looked graceful, decorative, and sophisticated. The luxury factor was upped by the use of high-quality fabrics and impeccable, neat execution. “Franco Moschino used to say that I’m a Capricorn with Hermès rising,” Jardini said with a throaty laugh.
14 July 2016
Here’s aMilan Fashion Weekriddle for you: Who’s the brand-new name on the calendar who’s actually an old hand? Do you give up? It’s Rossella Jardini. The former creative director ofMoschino—she inherited the label from Franco, whom she worked alongside—is back in action after a two-year absence with an eponymous collection. Speaking before her Saturday afternoon presentation at the Grand, Jardini declared, “It’s me, my passions, what I wear.” A sketch of her bespectacled face is on the new labels, and she’s designing a single pair of glasses modeled on the heavy frames she’s never without.The clothes were friendly and feminine—loaded with color, ruffles, and pattern. Jardini had stylist Viviana Volpicella on hand to increase the irreverence factor. A marinière knit sweater was layered under an emerald silk dress with scrolls of ruffles up and down its front, and a long trench with embellishments of its own was tossed over lamé evening pajamas. Black salopettes with frilled white trim on the bib are likely to be popular. Prices for the collection fall between the contemporary and designer level, which Jardini hopes will be a lure to customers. The designer has a fabulous collection of antique bangles, rings, brooches, and necklaces, some of which she was wearing today. As of now, there are apparently no plans in the works for a Rossella Jardini jewelry collection. But what a delight it would be if there were.
28 February 2016