Private Policy (Q8951)
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Private Policy is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Private Policy |
Private Policy is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
It was Private Policy’s most normal collection yet. Like TikTok, this season designers Siying Qu and Haoran Li were obsessed with the office-siren trend—repopularized for this generation by clips of Gisele Bündchen in the movieThe Devil Wears Prada—and decided to create fashionable office looks that were also hot and trendy.The designers are known for their experimental designs and themes. Their harness detailing is the most identifiable part of the brand, and they are known for being a favorite of the party crowd. So it was surprising to see that instead of harnesses and cutouts, we got a fairly standard collection with some great essentials. Some standouts included the vegan leather coats that came in deep burgundy and classic black. They were paired with jeans and button-ups, making for an excellent uniform for those who work in a less corporate but still professional environment. Tote bags are a massive part of work culture, and while the fictional characters inThe Devil Wears Pradawouldn’t be caught dead with a boat tote near them, in real life it’s the bag of choice among 9-to-5’ers. Private Policy gave it an elevated treatment, making the bags in cargo green and khaki brown. The bag’s many front pockets make it easy to store all the essentials, from your ID to extra pocket change.But the fun wasn’t gone from Private Policy’s collection. A sparkly long-sleeve top worn under a work-appropriate cropped blazer and capri set would enable you to go from the office straight to happy hour, and button-ups for women featured a corset-like detailing that cropped at the sides to accentuate the hips. When asked if she thought this collection would deter the brand’s celebrity clients, Qu responded, “The relationship with our clients is like a relationship between others and their boss. We have to try to balance what they want but also what we want to strive for.” This collection might have lacked the sequins and fun from past outings, but Qu and Li promised that when you look close, you’ll see a rebellious edge to the silhouettes, plus distressing and hardware that might not be obvious at first glance.
11 September 2024
From a glance through the window of Ideal Glass Studios, it was evident that Private Policy’s production budget had significantly increased since last season. The space was transformed with tons of fresh hay while the entrance of the runway was made into a green light tunnel that resembled thePrada set from fall 2022. Part of the credit can go to star publicist Kelly Cutrone, who’s been an avid believer in the brand since she started repping it three seasons ago; she even proclaimed at the start of the proceedings that this would be “one of the best shows” we would see from the designers Siying Qu and Haoran Li. But most important was the tenacity of Qu and Li, with a bit of help from stylist Patti Wilson, who’s been helping to push the brand out of its usual comfort zone of party-ready clothing. Qu and Li even spent the past year working with the CFDA and Genesis House to expand their design boundaries while also learning more about Asian cultures and modern technology. They visited South Korea, one of the leading nations in AI technology, and explored tools like 3D printers to create new ways of making clothes.While the previous few seasons of Private Policy featured themes of nature, this one marked a new chapter, focused on technology. “We’re really at the beginning of this massive technology revolution,” said Qu. “It’s like the Wild West: it’s exciting but at the same time so dangerous and unknown.” With that, the designers asked AI the question, “If there was a gold rush today, what would you wear?” The answer that ChatGPT provided was up for interpretation, but some key elements that it provided included large-brimmed hats and long sleeves which the designers merged with their interpretation of gold rush dressing. To Qu and Li, this meant twill utility shirts trimmed with leather collars, capri pants that hit right at the top of a cowboy boot, and utilitarian jackets decked out in sequins and metal hardware. If a few seasons ago we mentioned that Private Policy’s clothes were not really created for flash photography, this season every look photographed well under the fluorescent lighting that lit the runway. (The proof is in the runway photos below.) As the show ended, longtime fans of Private Policy did indeed acknowledge that it was the label’s best collection to date.
8 February 2024
It was Private Policy’s first season, and it took the closing-time slot of the first day of New York Fashion Week. For designers Siying Qu and Haoran Li, it was a slot that some of their fashion idols, including Prabal Gurung and Proenza Schouler, had occupied before them, one they were honored to have. “A designer used to show in this slot who I look up to, and I was like, oh, we have it this season,” said Li.Qu and Li wanted to take a more sustainable approach for spring than they have done in the past. “We were really inspired by the people who try to save the reefs in the sea, and we used inspiration from that,” said Qu. Denim jeans were embroidered with sequins made of biodegradable plastic, meaning microorganisms can break it down once in contact with the earth. At the same time, the nylon that made up the perfectly hemmed shorts sets was made of recyclable polyester.This new, more sustainable approach didn’t make the designers abandon their roots, however. After all, their brand appeals highly to ravers, meaning that short shorts and barely there mesh tops were must-haves in the collection.
9 September 2023
Animal themes have been one of the biggest trends on the runways since Schiaparelli’s spring 2023 couture show, but for Siying Qu and Haoran Li, they’re a continuation of the chapter they beganlast season. “We thought about how we could explore the idea of the animal again and the correlation of nature and the urban lifestyle. We realized that we could be inspired by animals and learn from them. The collection came together with the idea of pursuing freedom by people releasing their animalistic selves,” said Qu.The show started with an interpretation of a Japanese folk tale, “The Fox’s Wedding,” which symbolizes human beings’ desire to be like animals. Soon after, Rickey Thompson opened the show in a Canadian tuxedo that was Private Policy-fied with their signature checkered style patchworked onto the shirt. Unlike their previous collections, which played with bold colors and risqué club wear, here the designers took a step back in an effort to slow down. “This is a very different Private Policy show; we wanted to take time. Since we’re talking about nature, we needed to consider how to bring that into the city lifestyle,” said Qu. More wearable pieces like workwear jackets in pastel purples (a favorite color here) and knits in neutrals entered the mix. The designers didn’t forego all of their old ideas, though, as familiar touches like harness overlaying on button-ups and figure-hugging dresses remained, but in a more understated way. The most experimental part of the collection was the closing fur looks, while the men’s built-in skirt trousers were the most functional.If last season the Private Policy designers touched on thoughts of growing up, this season, they proved there is a lot more to come from the brand than clubwear. Genderless dressing was a theme they began explored before and continued to build on this time around. Some of their best looks were the simplest, such as looks 6 and 24. As for their thoughts on the animal-tastic ideas on the runways this season? “Nature calms people down. Maybe we all just need that freedom,” said Qu.
13 February 2023
Like the rest of us, the Private Policy designers want peace on earth. Inspired by Noah’s Ark, Siying Qu and Haoran Li began to think about contemporary equivalents. “In the modern day, we’re all like the animals [on Noah’s Ark]. At first, you’re all strangers, but then you escape the world together the minute you enter the nightclub,” said Qu. The spring 2023 show, which took place at a firehouse in Chinatown, had models strutting in their platform heels out on the sidewalk before they went inside to join the party.Designing clubwear is what Qu and Li do best. This season they chose a symbolic dove print as their hero pattern. Using a mesh fabric and shimmering sequins to reflect a dove flying against a shining moon, they made club-ready but perhaps not flash-friendly cutout tops, minidresses, and bikinis. The utilitarian style the two are known for with their menswear remained prevalent, with large, practical pockets donning every cargo pant and work vest. And with clubwear, you can’t forget about playing with proportions. By pairing itty-bitty bra tops with baggy denim, and spaghetti-strap tanks with oversized cargos, Qu and Li perfected the popular nightlife combo.And the Private Policy designers are growing up. They’re no longer the new kids on the block; it’s been seven years since they launched their collection. “We have definitely grown a lot since the beginning. We are more drawn to easy, effortless pieces in which people can feel special,” said Qu. “But at the same time, we just want to inspire people with the runway looks and have them think, Oh, I can wear that. I can be a guy in a strappy tank top for next summer.” And with growing up also comes experimenting. The finale look was the designers’ first-ever bridal design. Made out of recycled polyester satin, it was paired with a thrifted veil—anything but conventional. “It’s really fun. I thought if Private Policy ever did a bridal look, that would be our dress,” said Qu. “It’s easy. Once you take off the veil, you can go right to work in it the next day.”Maybe the designers are on to something. Perhaps the key to peace on earth just requires letting loose, looking hot, and heading to the club.
11 September 2022
Every New Yorker spends a not insubstantial amount of time trying to get away from the city. Private Policy designers Siying Qu and Haoran Li certainly understand this, despite outfitting some of New York’s most devoted denizens: club kids. Of all things, mushrooms and fungi inspired them to continue searching for balance and softness in all aspects of life.As Qu explained, they were talking about the 2019 documentaryFantastic Fungi, which explores some of mushrooms’ powerful qualities. The idea that something as organic and seemingly gentle as mushrooms could address problems in the future spoke to the designers and provided the basis of their fall 2022 collection. “We’re always inspired by the New York City scene, but there are also moments when we want that calmness,” Qu says. “And mushrooms, the properties and smell of them can guide you to becoming more calm and in tune with nature.”The clothes were utilitarian and futuristic in silhouette; fluffy and supple in texture. Almost every piece had an oversized cargo pocket, and there were harnesses galore. The latter were rendered in faux shearling or French terry—an appealing study in contrasts. Continuing the tactile theme were a pair of white fuzzy pants that recalled both slacks and sweats (tilting towards the cozier end of the spectrum thanks to the diagonal grid fleece the model wore on top) and a nylon bomber jacket in hunter green with knit, bolero-like sleeves. The most experimental textiles on the runway were initial key chains made from a dehydrated mushroom material, like a sturdier Styrofoam. Their futuristic vibe paired well with Private Policy’s first pair of shoes, pleated flats that resemble surgical shoe covers and are made in a zero waste, 3D mold. The runway show was broken up by two dancers who performed around the audience in sheer tops and baggy pants. Maybe it was to give the audience a little bit of a break, a little softness, before going back to watching models and their struts.
14 February 2022
Private Policy’s spring 2022 show opened in standard enough fashion for the downtown New York brand: with a lavender long-sleeve crop top plentiful with cutouts and white pants with purple organza legs. It ended notably, with a topless model wearing nothing but a netted tunic adorned with plastic flowers and Lucite high heels. Given that information, can you guess designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu’s inspiration? “This season we’re really exploring the idea of urban settings, with this organic form of plants and how these total opposite elements can mesh together so beautifully,” Qu said backstage. “We were really looking at how people fill their apartments with plants and just feel happier.”Staged at Spring Studios, the runway was dotted with futuristic vertical planters. On each seat was a tabloid-size one-sheet titled “Urban Plants: Good for the Planet, Good for the Mind,” which was the title of the show as well. Sales from two of the pieces in the collection, a T-shirt and a silk bandana, will raise funds for the Liz Christy Garden. Founded in 1973, it was the first community garden in New York City.All that sounds very Earth Mother, but the clothes were certainly filtered through the Private Policy lens. That is to say, a cool, club-kid perspective. The harness details on the pants, cutout necklines, and bomber jackets spoke to the brand’s audience. But there were some more grown-up touches. The second look was a lavender pencil skirt paired with a printed turtleneck featuring a floral design over some kind of askew grid—very ladylike. The organza featured throughout was also appealing, especially as a sheer overlay on skirts and dresses. Their subtle sexiness was a harbinger of things to come.Let’s talk about those final three looks. The flowers on each daring netted tunic were made from recycled plastic, held together by metal chains for an open weave. It looked a bit like a trellis or maybe more like a mermaid caught in a net. Two of the models wore them only with shoes and nude underwear, while one wore them with black pants. Nudity aside, they’re the pieces from the collection I hope most to see out in the real world. Perhaps with a slip underneath.
10 September 2021
Private Policy will return to in-person runways this September at New York Fashion Week. With two months to go before the show, they unveiled a short and sweet resort collection: just 10 looks, all shot selfie-style by models, photographers, and muses of the brand. Designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu wanted to “showcase the new image of Asian women,” by including style directors, entrepreneurs, and DJs as the models. The selfies also succeed in democratizing the styles. It doesn’t feel like you’re scrolling through a lookbook. You’re just checking your Instagram feed and everyone happens to be wearing the latest Private Policy.The brand makes genderless clothing (and started out in menswear), but this season the models were all female and the silhouettes skewed feminine, with a palette of white, black, hot pink, and red. One standout is a mini Qipao in a red and pink tiger print, a key pattern for the season. The silhouette is either identical or almost identical to another one from their fall 2021 collection, but in the splashy print it feels club-ready. Speaking of clubs, Qu and Li frequently incorporate harness accents in their designs, seen here on cargo pants and mini skirts. Aside from that, how much can you say about a 10-look capsule? It’s a red and pink amuse bouche to prep for the excitement of September.
27 July 2021
Designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu looked to the 19th-century gold rush for inspiration for their genderless fall 2021 collection—specifically, the Chinese migrants who came to California from the Pearl River Delta. The duo partnered with the Museum of Chinese in America to find historical photos of these workers, many of whom worked on the transcontinental railroad in the United States. Honoring the workers’ achievements, as well as acknowledging the xenophobia they faced, provided the jumping-off point for Li and Qu as well as a parallel to the current increase in hate crimes against Asian Americans. “We usually talk about social issues as a brand,” Qu said. “Maybe this is the season we can inspire and encourage people to learn about the culture and history.”Looking at the historical photos, they were struck by the blend of Americana and traditional Chinese design the workers wore. The focal point of both the historical photos and the collection’s look book is a hat with a wide brim that half-covers the eyes, which is regionally specific to the Pearl River Delta. The workers also wore utilitarian coats and quilted vests with their distinctive hats. “[In the photos from the 1860s,] there are a lot of quilted details in their clothing, which reminds us of how grandmas and grandpas wear clothing in Chinatown today,” Qu said.The Private Policy rendition of the hat is hot pink or sage green, and it is accessorized by a chunky silver chain. Knot buttons, mandarin collars, and qipao dresses bring Chinese design into the collection, while cowboy boots from Frye, denim midiskirts, and utilitarian jackets provide the Western flair. Quilting is present through the collection, often in the brand’s signature slanted-checker style.But still, Private Policy’s club-kid ethos is evident. Terry cloth dresses with buttons up the side, harnesses applied to vegan leather overshirts, and nylon bomber jackets, as well as brand signatures like chunky silver chains, cement the collection in the 21st century. The look book closes with a graphic tee of a crane carrying a slanted-checker flag, a riff on the bald eagle carrying an American flag. The message is clear. “When we were doing the photoshoot, someone on the team said, ‘Oh, this looks like Eastern kids in the Wild Wild West,’” Qu says. “That’s exactly what we want to do.”
15 February 2021
Designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu looked to the 19th-century gold rush for inspiration for their genderless fall 2021 collection—specifically, the Chinese migrants who came to California from the Pearl River Delta. The duo partnered with the Museum of Chinese in America to find historical photos of these workers, many of whom worked on the transcontinental railroad in the United States. Honoring the workers’ achievements, as well as acknowledging the xenophobia they faced, provided the jumping-off point for Li and Qu as well as a parallel to the current increase in hate crimes against Asian Americans. “We usually talk about social issues as a brand,” Qu said. “Maybe this is the season we can inspire and encourage people to learn about the culture and history.”Looking at the historical photos, they were struck by the blend of Americana and traditional Chinese design the workers wore. The focal point of both the historical photos and the collection’s look book is a hat with a wide brim that half-covers the eyes, which is regionally specific to the Pearl River Delta. The workers also wore utilitarian coats and quilted vests with their distinctive hats. “[In the photos from the 1860s,] there are a lot of quilted details in their clothing, which reminds us of how grandmas and grandpas wear clothing in Chinatown today,” Qu said.The Private Policy rendition of the hat is hot pink or sage green, and it is accessorized by a chunky silver chain. Knot buttons, mandarin collars, and qipao dresses bring Chinese design into the collection, while cowboy boots from Frye, denim midiskirts, and utilitarian jackets provide the Western flair. Quilting is present through the collection, often in the brand’s signature slanted-checker style.But still, Private Policy’s club-kid ethos is evident. Terry cloth dresses with buttons up the side, harnesses applied to vegan leather overshirts, and nylon bomber jackets, as well as brand signatures like chunky silver chains, cement the collection in the 21st century. The look book closes with a graphic tee of a crane carrying a slanted-checker flag, a riff on the bald eagle carrying an American flag. The message is clear. “When we were doing the photoshoot, someone on the team said, ‘Oh, this looks like Eastern kids in the Wild Wild West,’” Qu says. “That’s exactly what we want to do.”
15 February 2021