Protagonisti della storia delle scienze della mente (Q8957)
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| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Protagonisti della storia delle scienze della mente |
No description defined |
Statements
Protagonist’s Georgia Lazzaro isn’t out to reinvent the wheel, but she is making the wheel look a lot more desirable. Updating classic pieces in a visceral, gotta-have-it way is the backbone of the label, but she does it with a quiet sensuality—not the statement-y, outsize proportions of her peers. Her stretch-bouclé blazers were a bit longer and leaner than we’re used to, for instance, and poplin button-downs came with pintucking at the waist for a more feminine shape.This season, the biggest news chez Protagonist was the “more generous” silhouettes. Cocoon-shaped jackets and dresses curved gently away from the body but were snug through the shoulders so they didn’t feel bulky. Other nuances in fit and fabric made the lineup more democratic than ever: Her signature slip dress, for instance, came in a new heavy, double-layer satin to skim (not cling to) the hips, and another was cut with straight seams, which are more forgiving than a bias cut. “You want your clothing to work with your body, not against it,” Lazzaro said. “It feels more holistic to consider how these pieces will look on different body shapes.”Those woman-friendly details should attract even more loyal clients—and not just the PYTs other designers are catering to. Lazzaro said she’s really more concerned with dressing mature women with discerning tastes. They’re the type who don’t waste their time on clothes that aren’t up to their standards, so if Protagonist’s new faux-pony-hair jackets, fluted skirts, and curvy dresses pique their interest, well, that’s the ultimate win.
13 February 2017
Lots of designers will tell you their collections are about “timeless classics” or “elevated essentials,” but rarely are the clothes as alluring as Protagonist’s. While other basics might be spare to the point of lacking soul, Protagonist design director Georgia Lazzaro adds a raw edge here, a sensual drape there, or a surprising color to covetable, gotta-have-it effect. For her first Pre-Fall collection, she reined things in a little—none of Spring’s bright colors here—and focused on one of the brand’s major tenets: tailoring. A hip-length blazer and wide-leg trousers came in a spongy crepe, while a bustier dress was constructed from a dense, slightly shiny silk blend. On a pair of stirrup pants (which qualify as a new staple in our book), the fabric would suck you in and create an hourglass silhouette; “contouring” never sounded so chic.Tailoring gave Lazzaro lots of wiggle room in terms of transitional, mix-and-match pieces to wear all year round. And since Pre-Fall will hit stores in early summer, that’s key; of course, Protagonist generally avoids seasonal items anyway. One of the quiet styling heroes was a super-fitted bustier with a wide square neckline, which would look incredible by itself with ultra-high-rise pants, but would also work over a poplin shirt. There was an adorable shrunken vest, too, that you likely won’t see elsewhere; it also could be worn alone as an LBD alternative or layered up. Jumpsuits typically are a top seller for Protagonist, and this season’s iteration was particularly tempting, with a low square neckline and subtle cargo pockets. Popular slip dresses of seasons past got a necessary refresh with a tonal black or taupe jacquard; the gently flared slip skirts lent themselves to oversize knits, crisp shirting, or one of the label’s new oversize jackets.The biggest surprise of the whole lineup? A lone pair of matte black spandex leggings with a clingy quarter-zip jacket to match. Styled under a double-breasted coat, they made the most convincing case for athleisure we’ve seen yet.
6 December 2016
The Apartment by The Line does not necessarily overfloweth with color. The boutique’s ultra-envy-inducing brand of polish generally favors black, white, and neutral—an aesthetic that the cult fashion label, Protagonist, has closely followed. But designer Georgia Lazzaro, who made her debut with the label this past February, punched up that palette for Resort with a dose of what she and her team jokingly dubbed “Sunkist orange.” And forSpring ’17? Something of an even greater splurge in terms of tone.Here were Kelly green crepe plissé separates; a brilliant sky-blue suede jacket and skirt; and glossy-coated, poppy red rainwear, all neatly assimilated with the type of elegant restraint that fans have come to expect from the label. Shirting is part of Protagonist’s DNA. Just a couple of this season’s more covetable takes: a wrap-front judo top and a shirred-waist midi dress in the crispest of white poplins. Jumpsuits have been such a retail smash for the past two seasons, and the team debuted a pair of new styles: one a boatneck ivory crepe style, the other wide-legged and with a plunging front. And for a bit of sparkle, look no further than a novel grouping of pieces dappled with square paillettes, their surface glossy black but their edges red and blue for the subtlest flash of color.An ultra-elevated brand of sex appeal was at play in a spare bustier crop top, the slit back details on blouses, and a languid powder-blue slip dress. Both of the latter Lazzaro said she had designed specifically to be worn easily with a bra—a notable and often overlooked feature in slip dresses particularly. Indeed, when it comes to clothes as polished as those of the stripe Protagonist is proposing, the more mundane, day-to-day needs of women get regularly lost in the shuffle. This lineup was testimony to just how luxurious a little pragmatism can be.
15 September 2016
The phrase “Sunkist orange” came as something of a surprise from the mouth of lately mintedProtagonistdesign director Georgia Lazzaro. The label’s stripe of soigné has grown even a bit more ladylike since Lazzaro took the helm for Fall. Don’t be misled—the clothes remain as blissfully unfussy as ever, but they’ve grown sleeker, and taken on an even more aspirational air. LikeVanessa Traina’s immaculately curated The Line, from which Protagonist was born, the brand has a knack for bringing out a visceral kind of longing.Lazzaro (an alum of aesthetic peers Narciso Rodriguez and Calvin Klein) conjured up an elegant but multidimensional picture of the Protagonist client. She’s capable, unflappable, and dressed in such a way as to make that clear to anyone who should cross her path. But she’s no ice queen—see: a gorgeous, raw-edged silk tunic in that aforementioned, downright exuberant shade of orange that takes its name from an arguably unchic soda.Beautiful tailoring was the standout here; the growing taste among shoppers for evening separates will find a happy match in the softly sculptural, unadorned jackets Lazzaro proposed, while her daytime lineup included dry worsted wool trousers and blazers in a Prince of Wales check. A black stretch jacquard shot through with hand-embroideries in silk threads of cobalt, pink, cantaloupe, and sky blue was faultless; even those pieces on the introductory end of the price spectrum (Protagonist’s growing knitwear offering, for example) were striking in their quality. Aspirational, indeed.
3 June 2016
This morning’s presentation foundProtagonistdebuting its newly minted design director—Georgia Lazzaro, who cut her teeth at bothNarciso RodriguezandCalvin Klein—to a packed house.Vanessa Traina’s immaculately curated The Apartment by The Line brimmed over with familiar, well-heeled women, keen to see the newest iterations of the wardrobe staples Protagonist has made its name on since launching in 2013.Under Lazzaro’s direction, the studio team is staying that course, updating it with a new eye for textbook American sportswear in the mold of Bonnie Cashin or Claire McCardell. Consider a gorgeously sculptural parka, with its big patch pockets and soigné shape. Perhaps few styles drove home the notion of luxury essentials so well as a faultlessly executed duchesse satin bomber with wide cuffs, teamed as it was with a pintucked, wide-leg trouser. Protagonist’s signature shirting remained as present and persuasive a force as ever, commanding in its simplicity. Its lean, no-fuss elegance carried through into the edit of looks (a tight 18), and to dressier offerings like Lazzaro’s pencil skirt, slit to expose a generous flash of thigh, and her boatneck satin midi dress. Both would easily stoke flames for Protagonist’s brand of modern polish in even the grungiest of hearts.
10 February 2016
Creative directorKate Wendelbornmay have recently leftProtagonist, but Spring found the hyper-soigné label born of The Line in fighting form, albeit with a slightly more conservative tenor. The studio team hewed close to its aesthetic foundations; clean lines, immaculate fabrications, and unfussy luxury. The latter was paramount for Spring straight out of the gate: to wit, a spare robe coat in buttery suede and—wait for it—a chocolate croc bolero. A piece like that might easily feel anachronistic, downright patrician even, but in the closet of the Protagonist woman (sitting as it no doubt does alongside tattered 501s and white tees) it reads as a serious statement. It’ll team dreamily with one of this season’s lookbook shoe styles—Birksà laBlahnikgood enough to make you pray they’ll make it into production. Their androgynous appeal was echoed in rakish pajama tops, which borrowed a classic men’s shape and added a simple tie to cinch the waist.A grouping of straightforward black nylon jackets came up strong on utilitarianism; still, they’d hardly have been missed within this generally singular lineup. Shirting, an emphasis for the brand from day one, was as covetable as ever, with pieces alternately crisp and louche with wide cuffs, or with shawl collars and delicate button detailing. Those closures were equally effective on a slit-to-there pencil skirt, which was risqué without being showy, and evocative to boot.
8 September 2015
Today, at Protagonist's fashion week debut, a cadre of some of the runways' coolest new faces—Magdalena Jasek, Kristina Petrosiute, Hedvig Palm—sulked through a spare, modernist set looking lovely and utterly unaffected. Since launching in 2013 as an exclusive to e-commerce site The Line (the brainchild of designer Kate Wendelborn's sister, Morgan, and Vanessa Traina Snow, the stylist of today's show), Protagonist has earned a devoted following of editors and chic girls-about-town, and has been picked up by Barneys and a choice selection of indie stockists. It's little wonder why: Wendelborn has a knack for creating worthy investment pieces, impeccable basics that are anything but.Fall found the designer marrying the rough-hewn sensibilities of the Italian Arte Povera ("poor art") school with her line's sumptuous fabrications and now-signature, faintly Margiela-esque deconstruction. A crisp, open-backed white shirtdress played on the half-linings found in coats, to titillating effect. Elsewhere there were simple, serged hemlines and long bias straps that went untrimmed, nodding to the way a dressmaker would adjust the length of a gown; big, open cable-knit sweaters exposed glossy silk bias slips underneath. A sweeping checkered jacquard coat, notable as a rare foray into pattern for the brand, was so beautiful as to leave one hungry for more. Equally promising? The deconstructed, vintage-y denim trousers, new this season.But beyond all that rawness, Fall saw some ladylike developments for a label that first crystallized with riffs on menswear-inspired shirting. There was a hint of femme fatale around the edges of a wine-colored midi pencil skirt—and more than a hint to supple leather opera gloves, worn scrunched to perfection; ditto the nipped waists of suit jackets. Those looks were coolly, covetably demure, and just a couple of the many big wins Wendelborn had on her hands here.
12 February 2015