Ryan Roche (Q9083)
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Ryan Roche is a fashion house from FMD.
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Ryan Roche |
Ryan Roche is a fashion house from FMD. |
Statements
Ryan Roche brought her show to Paris for the first time today at an intimate space opposite the Eiffel Tour, overlooking the Seine. Still, there was a New York feeling in the air: Roche’s daughter Luella opened with a moving rendition of Joni Mitchell’s “Little Green.” The designer’s actor friend Vera Farmiga, a fellow upstate New Yorker, was also present. The pair collaborated on pearl necklaces that were layered over the designer’s signature cashmere sweaters this season, after Farmiga took lessons at the 92nd Street Y jewelry center in Manhattan.Farmiga sat front row alongside Amber Valletta, who looked especially chic in one of Roche’s smartly tailored beige overcoats. Of the new outerwear options in the collection, the oversized woolen trench was the pick of the bunch. Roche has been working beyond her trademark neutral palette for the past few seasons and she explored an array of jewel-toned monochromatic looks for evening. If the sheer fire-engine red slip dress seemed a tad risqué for her attention-shy clientele, then the spaghetti-strap tired party frock in aquamarine struck the right balance of polished and playful.Since opening a stand-alone store in Sun Valley, Roche is looking to chart new territory and Los Angeles is in her sights. Given her high-profile fan base, it would be a smart move.
27 February 2020
Ryan Roche’s latest collection was a family affair in more ways than one. Roche’s menswear is designed by her husband, Garrett, and for Spring 2020 the couple began their show with a performance featuring their daughter, Luella. Joined by musicians Celia Babini and Storey Littleton, the trio gave the audience at Spring Studios a dream pop serenade with a tune written by Emily King especially for the event.The song helped to set the mood for a collection that skewed ethereal. Roche is a minimalist, but advocating for less doesn’t mean eschewing fantasy. Inspired by the beauty of a pearl necklace spotted on a woman during a dinner party, and an equally alluring button glimpsed during a recent trip to Italy, the Roches played with reflective textures and delicate finery. “I never knew that I loved pearls until that moment,” Ryan shared backstage. “It started this whole vision about reflection.” Garrett responded to the theme with equal enthusiasm. “Now our whole house is filled with pearls,” he said. “It was an element that spoke to us both really strongly.”A David Byrne-worthy wide shouldered trench on the model Marique Schimmel began a series of monochromatic looks that were defined by the subtlety of their details. Anyone can do a blazer or a slip dress, but Roche’s materials and the attention paid to tailoring elevate the essentials. Standouts were plentiful. A pale blue gown with spaghetti straps and a touch of lace at the hemline was appealing, as were loose pants worn low on the hips. Bermuda shorts proved surprisingly versatile when paired with silk button-downs or cashmere sweaters.Blue jeans done in collaboration with SLVRLAKE Denim were a new addition, but Roche skipped the jackets in favor of a periwinkle trench worn with a matching crop top. Naturally, pearls were a focal point, appearing on buttons or as lengthy crossbody strands, but they made the biggest splash on the menswear looks. A fresh way to wear jewelry or up the ante on a t-shirt and trousers combo, the freshwater additions felt elegant and of the moment.
12 September 2019
A cottage industry exists around the idea of prairie dressing. Long floral dresses, puffed sleeves, and workwear boots abound on the runways and in stores, but Ryan Roche skipped all that this season, presenting her own interpretation of the look informed by minimalist restraint. Fall marks Roche’s doubling back to the show format after returning to the schedule last season with a streamlined presentation of monochromatic separates, and she began with a bang. Modern dancer Leal Zielińska moved through the space in a rhythmic interpretation of the collection’s mood. “It’s that youth that’s in the wilderness and super–pared back,” shared Roche post-show. “In my notes, I said it was my Idaho technicolor prairie, [and] it’s really about noticing the beauty in life that you might pass by.”Never one to get distracted by frippery, Roche maintained the austerity she’s become known for while evolving her output. If you were in need of a cream-tone slip dress or a tailored coat in the vein of those worn by longtime devotee Angelina Jolie, there were plenty, but pieces with a new verve stole the show. Roche and her husband, Garrett, expanded into menswear, bringing clean lines and chunky knits aplenty. Garrett, who served as designer for the men’s portion of the collection, kept things simple with turtlenecks and trousers in vivid mustard, and ecru suiting as worn by a distinguished male model with matching hair. Power couples were on the mind, with iconic ’90s twosomes like Brad Pitt and Gwyneth Paltrow, and Winona Ryder and Johnny Depp providing inspiration for pairs of complementary looks.In the post–Philo Céline era, many are in search of minimalist pieces with character, and Roche’s output certainly provides it. Understated details like fringe on the hem of a camel-tone dress, mint-tinted lace, or wide-brim hats crafted in collaboration with Royal Stag Hats—the milliner for rodeo queens and cowboys—were impactful, especially when scrutinized up close. Roche appears to be asking her audience to take a step back for a moment, to hit the pause button and appreciate the prettiness to be found in simplicity. Given the overwrought state of Fashion Week, that might not be a bad idea.
11 February 2019
Ryan Roche is back after a brief hiatus from New York Fashion Week. She returned to the schedule on her own terms (as the sole proprietor of her eponymous label) after successfully renegotiating the financial backing of her line. Roche used the time off to forge a vital relationship with Angelina Jolie, who has become an unofficial ambassador and muse for the brand. “Watching her put things together has totally influenced me,” said Roche of the actress and philanthropist at her presentation on the Upper East Side.There’s a quiet sense of elegance to Roche’s aesthetic that is perfectly aligned with Jolie’s own values. The designer’s commitment to sustainable practices is unwavering; she continues to work with a women’s collective in Nepal to produce many of her delicate cashmere and hand-crochet knits. Roche opened up the sisterhood to include some of her closest girlfriends from childhood this season. Indeed, several members of the crew that shot the video of the collection in Joshua Tree have known Roche since high school. “I kept dreaming about the desert and having the space to breathe,” said Roche.That convivial, feminine spirit came through in the clothes. Working within her signature palette of pale pink, soft beige, and vibrant red, Roche reaffirmed the soft and sophisticated line of her label with a series of floor-length looks. She built on the puff sleeves of seasons past with fine-gauge sweaters and tunics with gently rounded shoulders. In addition to the familiar spaghetti-strap dresses was a frock with a distinctive sweetheart neckline. Roche has flirted with the idea of lingerie dressing in the past and her lace and satin cap-sleeved frock was a modest answer to the slip dress that would slot nicely into Jolie’s wardrobe of polished neutrals. Ditto for her suede trenchcoat. For the millions of women who follow Jolie’s every style move, Roche’s designs offer a grown-up, modern, and thoughtful vision of luxury that’s well worth emulating.
1 March 2018
Ryan Roche has always taken a tactile approach to luxury, so it only makes sense that she would roll out a deep-pile white carpet for her first runway presentation this afternoon. The designer is known for her delicate cashmere sweaters, though she has been taking that soft aesthetic to a more structured place lately. That subtle shift in gears was apparent straight out of the gate today, and the designer opened with a tailored look to match the snowy white rug underfoot: wide-legged trousers, long single-breasted coat, crisp shirt buttoned all the way to the top and accessorized with a ascot-style scarf, a styling trick that lent the ensemble a certain noble elegance. Lady Diana played muse to the collection last season, and her penchant for puff-sleeves was filtered into Roche’s signature turtleneck and crewneck knits for Spring. There was an emphasis on the shoulder again, though this time the look tended more power-shouldered than princess-worthy, and made for a slightly angular silhouette on her floor-length fine gauge knit dresses.Roche managed to make bolder strides outside of her comfort zone where the palette was concerned, adding vibrant shades of red to the gentle repertoire of neutral tones she’s known for. In fact the best pieces in the collection were all finished with those bright, optimistic hues, including a long suede trench coat that was the color of crushed raspberries. And as far as knitwear for evening goes, the long-sleeved ruby-red tunic that was layered over a diaphanous lace skirt in candy-apple red was a compelling combination. Finding motivation to get dolled up for a social occasion isn’t easy on dreary mid-winter’s nights, so chic and comfy options like these are a welcome breath of fresh air.The one thing that could have benefited from more levity was the show format. Roche has made charming presentations a part of her brand, and it felt like some of the magic was lost in the move to runway, especially at a time when other designers are breaking from convention on that front. Still, the collection had a clear and consistent point of view nonetheless.
11 February 2017
Julian MacKay, a soloist with the Mikhailovsky ballet, flew in from St. Petersburg, Russia, to take center stage atRyan Rocheearlier today, dancing among a circle of models dressed in pale shades of apricot and optic white. His fluid, improvised movements were right in step with the designer’s style. After all, Roche has made a name for herself with easy, luxurious knitwear, and many of the delicate cashmere pieces on show today looked like elevated versions of a dancer’s uniform—gently flared leggings, camisoles, and belted cardigans.If Roche were to name a prima ballerina for the collection, though, as far as inspiration goes, it would be the latePrincess Diana. You could see her influence in a high-neck lace blouse and the pouf at the shoulder of a skinny sweater. The leg-of-mutton sleeve of the ’80s has made a comeback in the last few seasons, thanks to the likes ofHedi SlimaneandJ.W. Anderson, though in Roche’s hands it was stripped of all brashness and appeared like a natural extension of her soft and inviting aesthetic. It certainly proved to be an appealing proposition to many in the audience at her presentation; supermodelCarolyn Murphyrattled off a long list of looks for personal order from the sidelines, including a cool white sweatshirt trimmed with lace and a pair of wide-legged pants.It’s by venturing into tailoring that Roche broke new ground. With the help of a new factory in Italy, she created her version of a suit: high-waisted trousers cinched at the waist and a cardigan-like blazer with feather-light knit panels built in lieu of a traditional lining. Unlike the power suits popular in Lady Diana's day, this was a laid-back idea of a working wardrobe that women will be able to wear just like their favorite cashmere sweater.
10 September 2016
We knew there wereBowietributes coming, but few will be able to top the touching homageRyan Rochepaid to the British icon this season. The designer invited a youth group local from her home outside of Woodstock to perform Bowie covers at her presentation today, and her two adorable children Fionn, 11, and Luella, 13, were the youngest members in the band. It made for a lovely soundtrack to the new season, though those searching for literal signs of Ziggy Stardust or the Thin White Duke would have been disappointed. Roche isn’t the kind to tether her collection to any one theme or muse, and the inspiration for her clothes tends to circle back to her easy and inviting sense of luxury.With her soft spot for cashmere, the designer has a real feel for a fall wardrobe, and the recent trend for head-to-toe knit dressing comes as second nature. The traditional cable-knit sweater was unraveled and re-spun in unexpected ways, including one look that consisted of an A-line floor-length skirt and a matching cream-color cable-knit sweater that gave the itchy fisherman’s sweater a feminine makeover. Roche clearly has a fondness for pale pink, too, and worked with sustainably sourced fur for the first time to create charming and surprisingly light and fluffy blush-colored jackets. She didn’t venture too far outside of her comfort zone outside of that, though the full-length, claret crochet evening dresses were a convincing step in a new direction (even if the proportions might prove challenging for anyone outside of the model casting). Roche fans will appreciate the more subtle shifts in the collection, like the elongated sleeve on a caramel ribbed cardigan. The designer did add a new string to her bow by collaborating with George Esquivel on a sturdy, handcrafted lace-up ankle bootie they christened the Ryan, a cool alternative to the now-ubiquitous oxford shoe, and one that is sure to hit all the right notes with her chic and soulful clientele.
16 February 2016
Some designers drift from season to season looking for a current mood or muse to propel their vision onward. Others, likeRyan Roche, find that the best way to move their label forward comes by returning to a consistent, highly personal aesthetic. In Roche’s case, that means a veritable obsession with softness, a delicate palette (with a particular fondness for the palest shade of blush), and what can only be called coziness. That’s not to say that her clothes aren’t forward-thinking: With her latest collection she continued to marry a finely wrought fashion sensibility with a real commitment to ease.As far as starting points, the look of nineties minimalism and ballerinas in rehearsal was percolating in Roche’s mind’s eye for Spring. The overall effect was more languid than you would expect from a dancer’s working uniform though, and a cream robe and slightly oversize ribbed pink sweater would make for luxurious pieces to roll around in on a lazy Sunday afternoon.These days that casual yet luxurious approach to everyday dressing appeals beyond the weekend, and Roche’s laid-back elegance speaks to the way many women want to dress right now. That her popular cashmere sweaters came with subtle modern twists—an asymmetric ruffle here, a belted waist there—was all the more reason to fall for them (or more specifically, wrap up in them). It’s been a year since Roche was named a runner-up in theCFDA/VogueFashion Fundcompetition, and it’s clear from her latest collection that she’s headed in the right direction.
14 September 2015
Who knew how luxe knitwear could be? The core of Ryan Roche's dreamy eponymous range are sweaters so sumptuous as to earn her a constituency of some of New York's coolest, many of whom were on hand for last night's Fall presentation. Roche works predominantly in a palette of pinks lovely enough to sway even the most pink-resistant among us, with an eye for tonal dressing informed by the landscapes of her Idaho upbringing and current life upstate.On offer were a mix of Roche classics, like an oversize fisherman's sweater, hand-knit loosely to expose flashes of skin when worn solo, and a new buttery, ankle-grazing cashmere poncho (also available in black—if youmust). There's an undeniable Catskills-bohemian romance to Roche's clothes, but she never sacrifices sophistication. These pieces would look equally at home in, say, a Condé Nast elevator as at the farmer's market.It wasn't all slouch here, either: One cable-knit sweater, which dipped dangerously low in the back, had sex appeal in spades, and Roche's wovens were stellar. The influence ofAnnie Hallyielded some more structured pieces, like a cashmere coat in soft peach (also stunning was a silk-lined cape with a floppy-tie closure). The blush shearling vest, one of a handful of pieces dyed using avocado pits, is going to top a lot of wish lists.
13 February 2015