Skall Studio Aps (Q9156)
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- Skall Studio Aps
- SKALL STUDIO APS
| Language | Label | Description | Also known as |
|---|---|---|---|
| English | Skall Studio Aps |
No description defined |
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Statements
There were major European vacation vibes at Skall Studio’s spring show. Helping to set the mood was a playlist that included songs in Italian and French, the garden location, and the collection title, Villa Skall. This year marks sisters Julie and Marie Skall’s 10th year in business and you can feel that they are at home in what they do. They are also lovely hosts who today offered viewers a glimpse of a peaceful summer idyll, whether your dream is dancing barefoot on the grass at sunset or relaxing on the Greek islands, or touring Rome.There was an air of loveliness to this collection that was more than surface. Natural fibers are the sisters’ go-to, and this outing was about 95% mono fibers. Also mono was the palette of white, beige, and black, with a single dash of peach. “Sometimes we call ourselves sophisticated bohemians,” Julie said in a pre-show interview. “We have this huge amount of inspiration from the late ’60s going into the ’70s.” This easy-breezy aspect of the brand was countered by more tailored pieces with more of an emphasis on the waist. “We love classic design, but we are also very feminine,” Julie added. Falling into the boho category were light dresses with embroidery or lace-insets, which were lovely, if overly familiar.For her bow, Marie wore the smart-looking tailored vest and pants set in black that was one of the key looks in the show. Tank and skirt sets cut on the bias were noteworthy; the one in cream boasted a pretty corsage. Denim is a new and promising category for the brand; the jean shorts and cord-trimmed jacket looked fresh, and you can’t go wrong with a white shirt and cropped khakis tied at the waist with a printed scarf. Reflecting on the brand’s trajectory, Julie said, “I think we’ve been very good at being true to ourselves.”
7 August 2024
The look at Skall Studio for fall is booksmart. If the Moleskine journals and newspapers some of the models carried didn’t tip you off, their collegiate/beatnik looks might have. Julie Skall, who designs the line with her sister Marie, explained that the mood for the collection was set by Joan Didion and other female writers in New York in the ’60s. Sometimes they pushed the date even further back: Adina Fohlin in a turtleneck and plaid skirt seemed to channel a young Sylvia Plath; the vegan Doc Martens the outfit was accessorized with provided the twist.Skall Studio is known, among other things, for its bohemian vibe, and there were a number of puff-sleeve blouses and jackets embroidered with intricate tape detailing, which felt more on brand than on theme. There’s been more of a focus on denim in the last seasons; a jacket and four-panel miniskirt set was well cut. Jeans are a good match with the sisters’ beautiful coats (which were the main narrative of the season). The designers didn’t write a new story with their fall collection, but rather edited their existing vocabulary to craft a smart-looking heroine.
31 January 2024
It’s difficult to imagine anything dampening a Skall Studio outing; the light drizzle that fell during their outdoor show certainly didn’t. Julie and Marie Skall invited guests to the Garden of the Royal Library around which models progressed in easy, light looks in calming colors. The sisters had a feeling for crochet, both machine- and hand-made varieties, which they worked into column dresses, skirts, cropped tops, and adorable logo bags. Providing a contrast to the soft malleability of those pieces was easy suiting in linen, including a pantsuit with cropped, but not narrow pants that they accessorized with a head scarf and delicate espadrilles. It looked like a slice of sun, with its combination of vacation and cool city girl vibes. A series of monochrome looks started to feel formulaic, even if the individual garments were great; Edwardian-style pieces with delicate pleats and insets of lace, a continuation of a theme introduced last season, added welcome variety.This pretty collection wasn’t the designers’ most adventurous outing ever, but post-show they explained that they wanted to evoke a mood—and they absolutely succeeded in doing that. It was one of tranquility, beauty, and brains. The soundtrack included “A Dream,” a piece in which Lou Reed recites from Andy Warhol; and a statue of the Danish philosopher Søren Kierkegaard watched over the proceedings. The Skalls wanted to create a literary dialogue that existed within and without the red brick library walls. It’s clear that their clothes speak clearly, and enticingly, to both minimalists and romantics.
9 August 2023
“Everyday magic” is what Julie and Marie Skall said they were aiming for this season, but it’s an idea that has always animated their work and it speaks to the Danishness of the brand.In a new exhibition at The Met, “Beyond the Light, Identity and Place in Nineteenth-Century Danish Art,” is a luminous painting,Moonlight, Strandgade30, by Vilhelm Hammershøi. He made the piece around 1900 at an address that’s a 25 minute walk from Designmuseum Danmark, where the Skall Studios designers presented their fall collection in a room that had the same style of windows as the painting. A connection to home is a strong part of Danish culture, and of this sisters-led brand.The Skalls are from Jutland and are using undyed wool from the sheep there for sweaters made in one of the country’s last knitting factories. Recently, they’ve begun collaborating with tailors in Malmö, Sweden. Working local not only keeps them connected to heritage, it’s also is in synchrony with the designers’ interest in clothes for real life.Many of the models were dressed in looks appropriate for a day at a museum, or for doing a school run. Both sisters have young children and as working mothers they understand the need for clothes to be functional as well as attractive. The idea of “easy to wear is so important to us,” notes Marie. “Everyday wear, but still it has to be of good quality,” adds Julie. “I always feel that the magic that fashion can create, [is] the joy of wearing beautiful cuts, comfortable clothes, that you feel good in and that can last, and that you want to keep and wear again.”Oh Land and Eske Kath performed live at the serene presentation, which featured classic outerwear given the Skall touch, cozy knits, and lots of denim. The brand has long been known for rustic dresses; these were mostly left behind this season, and the collection felt more sophisticated as a result. In their place was a lovely slip dress with lace-like tape embroidery that also appeared on pretty blouses in updated 1910s style. The final two looks featured lace collars, each with an S worked into the pattern, that could have been pulled from one of those Danish paintings at the Met. That’s not to suggest that the collection is backwards looking, it’s very of the moment, in fact, but that there is a sense of connectedness to place, history, culture, and tradition. Building on this idea, the sisters are making clothing designed to stand the test of time.
1 February 2023
Julie and Marie Skall presented their spring 2023 show on the terrace of the historic Palm House in Copenhagen’s Botanical Gardens to tunes from The Beatles, Junior Parker, and Nina Simone, whose renditions of “Here Comes the Sun” not only described the idyllic summer day, but the warm optimism of the Skall Studio founders. “It’s eight years ago since we started,” said Marie post show. “We are in such a good place now.”This collection was inspired by India, where the sisters lived and worked prior to establishing their brand. “We have this really close connection to India and the people, some of them we have known for 25 years and are like family,” Julie said. Two sari-wrapped pieces of Indian cloth were the most direct expressions of the theme. Open weave linens were hand loomed in Bhagalpur, and natural dyes from Indian plants were also used.The Danish bohemian style has often incorporated Indian references; this, it was once explained to me, is in part because a lot of production was done there, and the exchange extended beyond manufacturing to aesthetics. In Skall Studio’s case, the references are not general, but specific and personal, and the combination of Indian fabrics and Danish knits was a happy one.This season, some of Skall’s signature “nightgown” dresses featured subtle embroideries, and some were accessorized with straw totes embroidered with the brand’s signature shell. The models wore velvet slip-ons or Mary-Janes, and there was a slipper-like softness to the collection in sync with the Skalls’ mission to tread lightly on the earth and design responsibly. You can count on the brand for a great blazer and pants, and they were on offer, as usual, but spring was mostly a dress story. More streamlined than their popular boho frocks was a take on the LBD, v-necked with fringe at the center front and hem. An interesting development, seen on a handkerchief halter and maxi, was the use of openwork of the kind that you might find on vintage bed linens or lingerie. It added a delightful airiness to this sunny collection.
10 August 2022
Slow and steady wins the race in the case of Skall Studio—a brand founded in 2014 by Julie and Marie Skall—which is now one of the buzziest shows on the Copenhagen calendar. The sisters took their time getting up to speed. They’ve grown from a staff of two to more than 20 in nine years. “From the beginning, we had a very clear vision about what we wanted to create, and then it’s just been at our own pace, and we haven’t compromised anything in the process,” Julie said. She’s not kidding about that either: “We have a rule,” the designer elaborated, “that we are not producing anything that we don’t love ourselves.”Some of the things that the Skalls love are tonal palettes, vintage menswear (particularly nightwear), and The Beatles. They are particular fans of Paul, Linda, and Stella McCartney’s lifestyle. Prior to founding the brand, Marie and Julie became vegetarians, and as a consequence they decided not to use leather or fur. But what to do with knitwear—which is such an important part of the Nordic satrorial tradition and key to Skall Studio’s aesthetic—since wool is an animal product? In their native Jutland, the Skalls discovered one of Denmark’s last spinning factories, one that spins local wool, and they were off. The strapping fellow wearing one of the cable knits made of that wool in these pictures is the son of the factory owner, which really brings things full circle.Though the collection felt very Danish by virtue of its muted colors, responsible origin, and minimal aesthetic, it was inspired by the Scottish countryside, which the sisters visited as children. The show featured a live performance by local artist Selma Judith, and the lineup included familiar Skallisms like pinafore dresses and shirting. Well-cut outerwear was new for the season—it had been on hold until the designers could find the right suppliers and producers. “We can say that we are a slow fashion brand because we only do what we feel is right,” Julie said. This new category added some city polish to a brand which tends toward the homey, rustic, and hygge.
4 February 2022